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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT   LOS  ANGELES 


Robert  Ernest  Cowan 


FRKF>  M.  DFAVITT 

BOOKSKI.I-ER 


PIONEERING 
THE  WEST 

1846  to  1878 

MAJOR  HOWARD  EGAN'S  DIARY 

ALSO 

Thrilling  Experiences  of  Pre- 
Frontier  Life  Among  Indians; 
Their  Traits,  Civil  and  Savage, 
and  Part  of  Autobiography, 
Inter -Related  to  His  Father's, 
BY  HOWARD  R.  EGAN 


Edited,  Compiled,  and  Connected 
In  Nearly  Chronological  Order 
BY  .  .  Wm.  M.  EGAN 


ILLUSTRATED 


Published  by 

HOWARD  R.  EGAN  ESTATE 

Richmond,  Utah 

1917 


DEDICATED  TO 

THE   ECAN    FAMILY 

Their   Friends 
and  All  Interested  in  the  Work 

of  the 
Pioneers  of  the  West 


Copyrighted  1917,  by 
HOWARD  R.  EG  AN  ESTATE 

All  rights  reserved 


Press  of 

SKELTOX  PUBLISHING  CO. 
Salt  Lake  City,    Utah 


Major  Howard  Egan,  Author  of  the 
Diaries  of  Pioneering  the  West,  Trail  Blazer 
of  the  Overlanl  Boute,  Pony  Express  and 
Overland  Mail  Agent.  Captain  of  50s  with 
Mormon  Exodus,  Special  Messenger  for 
Mormon  Battalion  1846,  Capt.  9th  Ten  of 
the  Original  144  Pioneers,  made  three  trips 
to  Salt  Lake  from  the  States,  and  innu- 
merable trips  to  California  on  three  or 
more  routes. 


314926 


'Preface 


PIONEER  MONUMENT 
Cor.  Main  and  South  Temple  Sis. 


is  always  a  degree  of  interest  in 
Ti  the  pioneering  of  any  locality  in  which 
one  lives;  and  as  time  goes  on,  more 
importance  and  interest  is  attached  to  it. 

When  a  great  inter-mountain  common- 
wealth grows  up  and  develops  in  a  few  snort 
years,  the  memory  of  those  hardy  pioneers,  who 
were  the  first  to  make  possible  such  progress, 
are  looked  upon  with  greater  interest  as  the 
years  go  by  and  the  records  of  all  who  took 
an  important  part  are  sought  after. 

It  was  well  known  by  all  who  were  in 
any  way  acquainted  with  Major  Egan  that  his 
life  work,  if  written,  would  make  a  remakably 
interesting  book  provided  the  information  could 
be  obtained.  Neither  himself  or  family  were  of 
a  literary  turn  of  mind,  and  hence  much  that 
would  be  of  great  interest  was  never  committed 
to  paper.  During  his  life  time  no  thought 
was  ever  given  to  anything  of  a  literary 
nature. 


The  family  all  knew  that  Father  (as  Mother  and  all  the  family  called 
him)  had  a  private  desk  packed  full  of  papers,  but  that  any  of  them  had 
any  thing  of  value  more  than  private  correspondence  none  of  the  family 
knew.  Even  at  the  time  of  his  death  (1878)  no  attempt  was  made  to 
exmine  his  papers  and  see  if  there  was  anything  worthy  of  preservation 
until  Mother  died  (1905)  which  took  place  some  twenty  seven  years  after. 
At  the  time  of  her  death  this  writer  was  on  a  mission  to  the  Eastern 
States  and  was  unable  to  return  until  after  the  funeral  and  the  old  home 
had  been  ransacked  ready  to  be  pulled  down  when  he  returned. 

Howard  B.  Egan,  the  principal  writer  of  the  latter  part  of  the  book 
looked  over  Father's  desk  and  took  home  with  him  what  he  judged  might 
be  interesting  to  read  over  when  he  got  home.  The  rest  were  scattered 
over  the  floor  and  later  the  house  was  pulled  down.  In  looking  over  the 
papers  Howard  got  interested  and  having  plenty  of  time  on  his  hands, 
not  being  able  to  walk  or  work  much,  and  he  read  and  re-wrote  Father's 
entire  Diary  of  the  Pioneer  trip  nearly  as  we  have  put  it  in  type,  also 
some  other  trips  that  were  in  diary  form.  This  was  necessary  on  account 
of  the  difficulty  of  reading  the  fine  writing,  which  is  shown  in  fac-simile 
exact  size  on  page  110. 

The  interest  in  the  matter  began  to  grow  and  correspondence  with 
this  writer  met  with  sufficient  encouragement  and  help  so  the  manuscript 
was  typewritten  ready  for  the  press.  Later  some  incidents  that  Howard 
was  so  familiar  with  were  written  and  his  family  was  desirous  of  having 
them  preserved  and  they  were  also  typewritten.  The  work  having  been 
done  by  this  writer  as  also  the  compiling  and  editing  for  the  press. 

The  value  of  this  book  lies  in  its  strict  adherence  to  truth,  and 
fidelity  to  fact.  First  of  all  it  is  the  story  of  eye-witnesses  and  it  often 
touches  the  story  and  romance  of  the  mountains.  One  of  its  missions 
will  be  to  preserve  the  real  spirit  of  Pioneering  the  Great  West,  and  the 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


commencement  of  the  first  enterprises,  which  were  only  the  forerunner 
of  greater  things.  Many  of  the  events  protrayed  in  this  volume  are  as 
fascinating  as  any  in  all  history.  The  events  had  their  dangers  and  some- 
times ended  in  tragedy. 

Our  desire  is  to  awaken  an  interest  with  old-timers,  and  those  who 
have  descended  from  Pioneer  stock,  as  well  as  all  those,  who  are  in  any 
way  concerned  in  the  early  development  of  this  western  and  inter-mountain 
country,  to  show  the  hardships,  difficulties  and  the  toil  that  it  took  to 
open  up  the  way,  and  the  resolution,  determination  and  untiring  efforts 
put  forth  by  those  "Pilgrim  Fathers"  that  were  driven  from  their  homes 
by  mobs  and  forced  to  hunt  a  new  home  for  themselves  and  those  who 
followed  after. 

The  Diary,  in  the  First  Part,  is  corroberative  of  other  writers,  but 
it  also  contains  many  things  not  mentioned  by  any  one  and  not  likely 
to  be  given  any  where  else.  All  the  writing  in  Diary  form  was  taken 
from  Major  Howard  Egan's  old  Diaries  just  as  he  penned  them  as 
near  as  practical,  preserving  the  diction  intact.  The  writing  of  the 
compiler  and  editor  are  proceeded  by  a  star*.  All  the  rest  of  the  writing 
except  as  credit  is  given  not  in  diary  form  and  not  starred  were  written 
by  H.  R.  Egan,  whose  brief  preface  is  as  follows: 

"Some  of  my  children  and  brothers  have  expressed  the  wish  that  I 
write  some  of  my  earliest  recollections  and  on  up  to  date.  Well,  I  am 
now  over  seventy-five  years  old  and  have  a  good  memory.  It  would  take 
a  long  time  to  tell  all  I  can  remember,  and,  if  printed  would  make  a  good 
many  volumes.  So  I  will  necessarily  have  to  be  brief  on  many  events  as 
I  come  to  them.  I  shall  not  pretend  to  give  these  few  sketches  of  Pioneer 
life  in  routine  or  give  dates  as  to  when  they  happened  as  I  am  not  writing 
from  any  memorandum  but  just  as  I  remember  them." — H.  R.  Egan. 

At  first  it  was  intended  to  print  only  Father's  Diaries,  about  200 
pages  of  about  250  words  in  larger  type,  but  when  Howard  R.  got  his 
writings  together  it  was  decided  to  select  smaller  type.  Then  we  wanted 
the  engravings  to  come  in  the  proper  places  so  a  smooth  thin  paper  was 
selected.  In  discussing  about  this  Howard  R.  wrote  as  follows: 

"The  trend  of  modern  times  is  to  utilize  and  conserve  space,  which 
becomes  more  valuable  as  time  passes.  This  is  the  case  in  all  kinds  of 
human  endeavor,  whether  in  agriculture  or  in  the  mechanical  a-rts,  effi- 
ciency, durability,  space  and  cost  are  all  considered. 

But  in  "cheap  John"  affairs  the  first  two  don't  count  and  only  the 
last  is  reckoned  with.  As  in  books,  to  use  very  thick  paper,  very  large 
type  and  leave  great  marginal  space  at  each  side  of  pages,  besides  having 
the  subjects,  put  in  a  great  number  of  paragraphs,  any  thing  to  eat  up 
sp:ici>  ;ni(l  spread  a  little  over  enough  thick  paper  to  make  the  desired 
thickness,  and  the  number  of  pages.  Then  sometimes,  to  make  amends 
put  on  a  cover  that  is  quite  attractive  and  frequently  costing  more 
than  the  rest  of  the  book — 'Unwise  and  expensive. 

"Multum  in  Parvo"  suits  the  intelligent  person  best,  and  this  is 
what  we  cater  to.  A  book  of  200  pages  of  250  words  each,  and  another  of 
500  words  each  is  worth  one-half  more,  if  the  contents  are  only  of  the 
same  value.  But  this  again  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  price. 

We    are    offering    a    book    that    is    not    built    to    catch    the    eye,    but    is 


PIONEERING      T11K      WEST 


presentable  and  durable.  We  are  offering  a  Look  that  contains  valuable 
information  not  printed  in  any  other  book  or  form.  We  are  offering  a  book 
that  contains  no  fiction,  but  is  the  actual  experiences  and  personal  views 
of  the  writers.  We  are  offering  a  book  that  we  think  should  be  very  in- 
teresting to  those  seeking  Pioneer  History.  We  are  offering  a  book  tliat 
will  become  more  valuable  as  time  passes,  for  a  reminder  of  frontier  life. 
We  are  offering  a  book  Unit  takes  less  s].ai-t>  than  most  books  on  the 
market,  yet  with  good  readable  type.  We  are  offering  a  book  at  a  lower 
price,  considering  the  contents,  than  tin-  price  of  the  same  sized  book." 

These  were  the  last  words  of  the  publisher,  H.  E.  Egan,  written 
just  before  his  death,  which  occurred  in  March  1916,  but  were  not  found 
until  after  the  funeral.  These  words  stand  for  the  truth  and  the  book  it- 
self supports  the  statements. 

The  book  is  not  written  from  a  religious  nor  scientific  standpoint; 
nor  is  it  written  in  poise  of  a  hero,  ostentation  or  self  praise,  but  is  simple 
in  style  and  diction.  No  effort,  either,  has  been  made  to  change  it  from  the 
original  writings.  Perusal  of  the  book  illustrates  how  close  to  the 
exact  fact  it  adheres,  and  that  no  embelishments  of  story  or  fiction  is 
introduced,  although  there  is  ample  opportunity  to  picture  the  circumstances 
in  that  manner,  and  still  it  often  runs  into  startling  episodes  of  the 
mountains  and  plains  and  thrilling  experiences  v/hich  often  ended  in 
tragedy.  The  book  is  divided  iuto  four  parts. 

The  stereotyped  form  of  chapters  is  avoided,  the  four  parts  above 
referred  to  being  each  divided  into  sections  as  the  classifications  could  be 
made  and  yet  preserve  their  natural  and  chronological  order.  Other 
divisions  are  made  in  all  about  seventy-five  articles  or  headings  numbered 
consecutively,  with  some  few  sub-headings. 

The  conclusion  brings  the  closing  incidents  down  to  a  recent  date  and 
finishes  in  brief  the  biography  of  Major  Howard  E?an  and  his  son, 
Howard  E.  Egan,  as  well  as  a  brief  account  of  his  other  sons,  his  pro- 
genitors and  the  family  tree  of  his  desceudents. 

The  statement  in  the  conclusion  that  four  of  Mother's  children  were 
alive  was  true  when  that  was  written,  but  was  overlooked  in  the  proof 
although  it  was  stated  in  a  previous  paragraph  when  Howard  E.  died. 

The  Appendix  deals  with  genealogy  and  makes  a  connecting  link, 
by  the  aid  of  an  old  Irish  Chart,  from  Adam  to  the  stem  of  the  Egan 
Family.  - 

We  now  commit  to  each  reader  the  facts,  faith,  and  experiences  that 
attended  the  trips  of  the  Pioneers;  also  thrill' 113  experiences  of  pre-frontier 
life  and  stories  of  the  hab'ts,  customs  and  character  of  Indian  life  by 
one  who  knew  their  language  and  was  well  acquainted  with  them,  and 
knew  how  to  deal  with  them.  To  all  it  will  be  a  pleasure  to  know  the 
situations,  thoughts  and  experiences  of  eye-witnesses  and  be  able  to  see 
some  things  as  they  were  in  early  days.  We  are  indebted  to  the  Improve- 
ment Era  for  many  of  the  engraving  used  and  we  are  thankful  for  the 
nse  of  same.  We  continue  to  find  many  things  that  should  have  been  said  in 
this  book  but  its  limits  has  required  us  to  make  all  statements  as  brief 
as  possible  consistent  with  proper  explanation  in  order  to  preserve  what 
has  been  written  by  Father  and  brother  Howard  E.  Egan. 

THE    COMPILEE    AND    EDITOR. 


Contents. 


PART  1. 

PIONEERING:    NAUVOO  TO  SALT   LAKE. 

Page  Page 

Introduction  9          8.  Platt    River    Crossings 62 

Sec.  I.     Nauvoo  to  Winter   Quarters  9.  Rocky    Mountains 91 

2.  Mormon    Exodus 13  Sec.  III.      What    was     Done 103 

3.  Trip    to    Santa    Fe 15  10.  Work    at    Salt    Lake 114 

4.  The  Pioneers,  A  Poem 17  11.  Meeting     the     Trains 134 

5.  Original   Band   of   144 18  Sec.  IV.      Second  Trip 138 

6.  Howard  Egan's   Diary 21  12.  Winter     Quarters 138 

Sec.  II.     Details  of  Trip 21  13.  On  to  Salt  Lake 140 

7.  Laramie     Plains     32  14.  Scenes   By   The  Way 141 

PART  II. 

SALT  LAKE:    INCIDENTS  OF  EARLY  SETTLEMENT. 

Sec.  I.     Our   Home    Life 147        21.      The  Indian  Portrait 155 

15.  The    Old    Fort 147  Deep    Snow-Freezing 155 

16.  Our    New    Home 148  Sec.  III.      Stories   of   Salt  Lake   160 

17.  Grasshoppers  and   Crickets   150        22.      The     Cold     Swim 160 

18.  Another    Home 151        23.      Setting   Gun   for   Bear 161 

19.  Burning    of    the    Barn 152        24.      The    Hornets 163 

Sec.  II.     Relics  155  25.      The    Stampede    is    Stopped   164 

20.  Indian    Mounds 155        26.      Taby    We-Pup 166 

PART  III. 

PIONEERING:    SALT  LAKE  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

Sec.  I.     Route  South,  and  North  169  Sec.     III.     Central  Route  202 

27.  A  Diary,  1849  to  1850 169  36.  Getting    Rid    of    an    Indian   202 

28.  Tecumsee     182  37.      A   Run   For   Life 203 

29.  Indian  Snake  Eating 187  38.  Tracking    Stolen    Mules.1.....  205 

30.  The    Sleeping    Mule 188  39.  Changing  Camp  After  Dark   207 

31.  A    Fearful    Fall 190  40.      My    Three   Day's   Fast 208 

Sec.  II.     The    Central    Route....  193  41.      Mail    Carrier 211 

32.  A  Ten  Day's  Trip 193  42.  Father's    Indian    Doctor....  216 

33.  Finding   the    Egan    Trail....  194  43.     A  Trip  to  Ruby  Valley 217 

34.  Pony         Express — Stations  198  44.      Short     Line    Cut    Off 220 

35.  Deep   Creek 201  45.  Irrigation     .. 

PART  IV. 

THRILLING  EXPERIENCES  OF  PRE-FRONTIER  LIFE. 

rfec.  I.     Indian    Practice 226  Sec.  IV.     Indian    Cruelties 251 

46.  A    Little    Surprise 226  60.  Old   Indian    Left   to   Die....  251 

47.  Lasso    Practice 227  61.  How   Bill   Got  His   Wife....  252 

48.  Eating     Ants 228  62.      The    Cross    Indian... 254 

49.  Indian  Cricket  Drive 230  63.     The    Indian    Outbreak 256 

50.  Trapping    A    Coyote 233  64.  Burning  of  Canyon  Station   263 

Sec.   II.      Hunting,    Harvesting..   235  65.     Jessie    Earl's    Death 264 

51.  A    Rabbit    Drive 2"-5  66.      The    Indian,    No    Legs 265 

52.  Mountain    Rat   Food 237  67.      Playful    Goats 267 

63.      The   Antelope   Drive 238  68.  Wagon    Going    No    Team....   268 

54.  Pine-Nut     Harvest 241  69.      The   Dog  Pompy 269 

55.  Hunting    for    Water   242  70.      Wild    Pets 272 

56.  Squaws    Catching    Moles....   245  71.      The   Sand   Hill   Cranes 274 

Sec.  III.     Hard  Experiences 248  72.  Indian   Story  of  Great  Cave  273 

57.  Saved    by    a    Rabbit 248  73.  Express  Rider's  Experience   280 

59.     Around  a  Bush   all   Night..   249  74.  Unpleasant     Experiences....  280 

58.  Lost   and   Found ...    '24*  75.      Conclusion    282 

APPENDIX. 

Genealogy     285        Howard   Egan's    Travel   in    1849  298 

Pedigree    of    Howard    Egan 289        The    Egan    Family    Organization  300 

Irish    Hitsory 297        Articles    of    Agreement 301 


LIST   OF  El 
Major  Howard  Egan  Frontispiece 
W.    M.    Egan    8 

IGRAVINGS 
Salt    Lake    Temple 

149 

169 

156 
157 
158 

10  :> 

100 
168 

177 
184 
180 
191 

190 

201 

208 

212 
214 
225 
2IU 
258 
2  50 
284 
288 

289 

291 
291 
303 

Upper  Main  Street,  1860  
Gov.  Cumming's  Recommend  
Annuiition  from  H.  Egan  
News  and  Tithing  Offices  
Britain  Young  and  Brothers.... 
(in,\vth  of  Salt  Lake  City  
•  Jrliow  and  Squaw  
Cm-tils  and  Fencing  
Washikee,  Peace  Chief  
Kanosh  Pavant  Chief  
First  Salt  Lake  Store  

Irish  Home  Birth  Place  
Howard  Hansom  Egan  
S.  F.  Kimball  
On    the    Way  
Gathering  on  the  Elk  Horn  
Prairie    Burned    Over  
Buffalo 

10 
12 
16 
20 
22 
34 
41 
49 
51 

67 
70 
71 

88 
93 
100 
105 
106 
110 
117 
137 
143 
144 
146 

Indians   Near   Laramie   

Buffalo    Hunt 

Brigham   Young  
Top  O'the  Rockies  
Stream  from  Tunnel  
Mountain    Lake  
Beady  to  Move  from  Camp  
Corn  for  Jim  Bridger  
Indian    Encampment  
Aspen     Forest  

Deep  Creek  Ranch 

Overland  Mail  Coach  
R.  E.  Egan,  Express  Rider  
Log  Cabin  

Bill  and  Wife  
H.  R.  Egan  

Heber   C.   Kimball  
Facsimile   of   Diary  
First  House  Built  in   Salt  Lake 
Dave    Kimball    and    Wife  
Chimney   Bock  
Camping    at    Echo  
Native   and  Ensign   Peak  

Family  Tree 

Fiither  and  Mother  
Ira  Ernest  Egan  
Hyrum  Wm.  Egan  
Pioneer  Monument  

WM.     M.     EGAN. 

Compiler   anil    Editor   of   "Pioneering 

the    U.-st";    Editor   and    Publisher   of 

"Our   Deseret   Home"   and   "The   Utah 

Industrialist."       Address.    No.    3 

Gerard  avenue,  Salt  Lake  City. 


\.— I JS  TRODUCTOR  Y. 

*Howard  Egan  was  born  in  Tullemore,  King's  County  Ireland 
June  15th,  1815.  His  father's  name  was  Howard  and  his  mother's 
maiden  name  was  Ann  Meade.  His  Grand  Father's  name  was 
Bernard  and  his  Grand  Mother's  name  was  Betty.  After  the 
death  of  his  Mother,  when  about  eight  years  of  age,  1823,  with 
his  father  and  eight  other  children,  he  left  Ireland.  He  was  the 
fourth  child  and  the  first  son,  there  being  ten  in  the  family. 
The  last  two  being  twins,  one  of  whom  was  left  with  an  aunt 
in  Ireland. 

The  family  went  to  Montreal,  Canada  and  settled  there. 
Howard's  Father  died  in  Montreal  in  1828,  leaving  six  orphan 
children.  Howard  went  to  sea  and  followed  the  life  of  a  sailor 
until  grown  when  he  settled  in  Salem  Mass.,  and  worked  at  rope 
making.  In  1838  he  became  acquainted  with  Miss  Tamson  Par- 
shley,  who  was  born  July  27th  1825  at  Barnstead,  N.  H.,  being  the 
tenth  child  of  Richard  Parshley  and  Mary  Caverly.  They  were 
married  Dec.  1st  1838,  he  being  over  23  years  of  age  and  his 
wife  a  girl  of  14  years  and  four  months. 

Their  first  son  Howard  R.  Egan  was  born  April  12th  1840, 
also  the  second  son  R.  Erastus  Egan  March  29th  1842,  in  Salem. 
In  Oct.  1841  he  was  naturalized  as  an  American  Citizen,  and  in 
1842  he  and  his  wife  were  converted  to  "Mormonism"  by  Elder 
Erastus  Snow  and  baptized,  moving  to  Nauvoo  the  same  year. 
He  became  one  of  the  Nauvoo  Police,  and  the  Prophet  Joseph's 
guard,  who  has  said  "he  felt  safe  when  Howard  Egan  was  on 
guard."  He  was  also  Major  in  the  Nauvoo  Legion. 

Sept.  24th  1844  he  and  his  wife  each  received  a  Patriarchal 
blessing  under  the  hands  of  Hyrum  Smith,  the  Patriarch  and  bro- 
ther of  the  Prophet  in  which  it  is  stated  that  he  was  "of  the 

lineage  of  David  and  of  the  tribe  of  Judah and  have  a  right 

to  the  priesthood  and  b'.essings  according  to  the  prophetic  visions 
of  his  fathers. ..  .and  shall  be  numbered  with  the  called  and 
chosen. ..  .and  also  prepetuated  by  his  posterity  in  the  blessing 
of  the  priesthood  from  generation  to  generation  until  the  latest 
generation."  That  his  wife  should  receive  these  blessings  in 
common  with  him,  that  she  was  the  seed  of  Joseph  through 
the  loins  of  Ephraim.  He  filled  several  missions  in  the  states. 

After  the  martyrdom  of  the  Prophet  and  Patriarch  at  the 
time  of  the  return  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  when  Oliver  Cow- 


PIONEERING     T  HE     WEST  11 

dery  was  trying  to  lead  the  Church,  Mother  saw  Brigham  Young 
look  like  Joseph  and  speak  ift  his  voice  at  a  meeting  held  Aug. 
8th,  1844  showing  conclusively  where  the  authority  of  leader- 
ship laid.  H.  R.  Egan  introduced  his  writings  as  follows: 


EARLY  DAYS. 

I  will  start  by  saying,  "I  was  born  in  Salem  Mass."  although 
I  was  there  I  don't  recall  the  event,  but  I  do  remember  of 
Mother  leading  me  by  the  hand  up  to  the  Nauvoo  Temple  and 
showing  me  the  large  baptismal  font  that  was  supported  on 
the  backs  of  twelve  stone  oxen.  (When  at  the  age  of  six  years.) 
There  were  four  on  the  side  where  we  stood,  one  at  each  corner 
and  two  between  them  just  as  natural  as  life.  I  remember  the 
house  we  lived  in.  There  was  two  rooms  facing  the  street  with  a 
hall  between.  We  lived  in  the  left  hand  room,  another  family 
lived  in  the  right  hand  room.  I  don't  remember  of  ever  going  in 
there.  There  was  a  flight  of  stairs  in  the  hall  that  led  to  two 
rooms  above.  I  remember  the  stairs  but  nothing  more  about 
the  house  but  what  I  have  stated. 

Father  had  a  rope  factory  down  close  to  the  river  where 
Mother  used  to  go  with  his  dinner  and  often  took  me  with  her, 
I  remember  of  seeing  Father  with  a  big  arm-full  of  hemp  backing 
down  the  walk  as  he  was  spinning  out  the  twine  to  maKe  ropes 
of,  and  at  other  times  he  and  another  man  would  be  throwing 
hemp  over  a  hatchel,  and  dragging  it  back  to  free  it  of  sticks 
or  dirt  and  make  it  ready  for  spinning.  At  one  time  I  saw  him  as 
he  was  finishing  a  large  and  long  rope,  there  were  three  strands 
each  composed  of  many  small  ones.  The  three  strands  were 
each  hooked  on  one  turning  hook,  and  a  man  far  down  the  walk 
had  the  three  strands  fastened  to  a  hook  called  a  looper.  This 
was  in  a  belt  the  man  wore  around  his  waist,  so  he  could  lean 
back  and  keep  the  cords  tight  and  off  the  ground. 

As  Father  could  not  stop  then  to  eat  his  dinner  we  had  to 
wait  till  the  twisting  was  done.  Father  held  a  conical  shaped  block 
of  wood  that  had  three  grooves  in  it  in  his  hands.  In  each  groove 
laid  one  of  the  strands,  and  as  they  would  twist  enough  to  suit 
him  he  would  back  down  towards  the  lower  end.  I  was  following 
him  down  the  walk  when  he  gave  me  a  scare  by  turning  to  face 
the  man  and  putting  one  hand,  side  of  his  mouth,  yelled  out  at 
the  top  of  his  voice,  "slack  up  on  that  Icoper."  The  man  was 
pulling  too  hard  I  suppose. 


12 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


I  remember  of  seeing  posts  that  had  arms  across  the  top  with 
pegs  sticking  up  like  rake  teeth  to%old  twine  separate  as  twisted. 
I  don't  know  how  far  apart  these  posts  were,  but  it  seemed  to  me 
they  were  about  two  or  three  rods,  and  as  high  as  a  man  could 
reach.  The  factory  was  very  long  but  not  enough  when  Father 
had  to  make  sea  cables,  so  he  had  placed  a  good  many  posts 
beyond  the  lower  end  of  the  walk.  Some  of  them  were  on  the 
sand  bar,  but  as  I  saw  them  then,  there  were  a  few  standing  in 
the  river. 

One  day  I  was  with  Mother  when  sl:e  showed  me  the  foun- 
dation of  a  house  and  said,  "They  were  going  to  build  our  home 
there,  then  it  wouldn't  be  so  far  to  the  factory. 


Howard   Bansom   Egan. 

Author  of  "ThrUling  Experiences/ 

Began  this  Publication  191?. 

Died  March,  1916. 


Pioneering  the  West. 

PART  1. 

PIONEERING:  NAUVOO  TO  SALT  LAKE. 

SEC.  I.— PIONEERING  TO  WINTER 

QUARTERS— 1846. 
2.— MORMON   EXODUS. 

I  well  remember  the  Mormon  Exodus  and  of  sitting  in  a 
covered  wagon  with  Mother  and  brother  Erastus,  and  this 
is  the  first  1  remember  of  him.  (Howard  six  and  Erastus  four 
years  old.)  The  wagon  was  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  Miss- 
issippi river  with  the  front  end  facing  the  water.  There  was 
another  wagon  close  by.  I  had  seen  two  wagons  on  a  flat 
boat  leave  the  shore  and  go  out  of  sight.  Mother  said  we 
could  go  next  when  the  boat  came  back.  I  did  not  see  it  when 
it  came  back  for  I  had  gone  to  sleep,  but  the  next  morning 
when  I  opened  my  eyes  it  was  raining,  and  peeping  out  of  the 
front  end  of  the  wagon  I  could  see  that  Mother  and  quite  a 
large  crowd  of  people  were  standing  by  a  large  fire  that  had  been 
built  against  a  stump  just  in  the  edge  of  the  forest.  The  Miss- 
issippi river  was  just  back  of  us.  We  had  been  brought  over 
In  the  night.  The  next  I  remember  was  of  some  man  unhitch- 
ing the  team  from  the  wagon  and  putting  it  ahead  of  another 
team  on  another  wagon  and  going  off  out  of  sight.  I  don't 
know  where  this  place  was  and  don't  believe  anyone  else  does, 
(probably  Sugar  Creek,  which  place  they  left  March  1,  1846), 
for  it  was  raining  all  the  time  and  water  all  over  the  ground 
except  here  and  there  a  small  point  sticking  up  above  the  water. 
The  land  must  have  sunk,  and  how  we  got  out  of  it  I  don't 
know,  but  now  I  think  it  was  there  or  there  abouts  that  Mother 
and  I  got  our  start  of  rheumatism. 

.  The  next  place  I  think  was  Garden  Grove,  a  most  beautiful 
place.  (East  fork  of  Grand  river  145  miles  from  Nauvoo,  ar 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 


rived  April  24th.)  The  wagons  were  all  placed  in  a  row  side 
by  side  with  room  to  pass  between  them.  There  was  a  bowery 
built  along  the  front  and  the  tongue  of  each  wagon  was  tied 
to  it,  thus  making  a  long  shady  lane. 

I  went  with  some  other  boys  with  some  men  that  were 
getting  brush  for  the  top  of  the  bowery,  and  when  we  got  to 
the  Grove  that  was  on  the  lower  ground,  I  thought  it  was  the 
prettiest  place  I  had  ever  seen.  I  and  the  rest  of  the  boys 
wanted  to  run  into  the  edge  of  the  timber.  There  was  no  under 
brush  and  there  was  a  nice  grass  sod  all  over,  under  the  trees, 
making  it  a  boy's  paradise  play-ground,  but  the  men  would 
not  let  us  go  out  of  their  sight,  saying  there  was  lots  of  wild 
animals  in  there,  and  when  they  had  their  loads  ready  made 
us  go  to  camp  with  them. 

*In  addition  to  what  Howard  R.  has  said  in  the  preceeding 
paragraphs  the  compiler  adds  the  following:  The  family  moved 
with  the  general  exodus  of  the  Saints  about  the  1st  of  March, 
1846,  the  first  campanies  crossing  the  Mississippi  river  from 
Nauvoo  to  Montrose  upon  the  ice,  led  by  Brigham  Young, 
H.  C.  Kimball  and  others  of  the  Twelve,  it  being  the  start  of 
the  emigrating  of  the  Latter-day  Saints  from  the  State  of 
Illinois.  At  that  time  there  wras  no  definite  plan  as  to  the 
future  destination  of  the  people.  There  had  been  vague  ideas 
afloat  of  Oregon,  Vancouver  and  Upper  California  n.s  probable 
places  of  refuge.  The  only  guide  was  the  more  or  less  unde- 
fined plans  of  the  Prophet  Joseph  Smith,  of  migrating  to  the 
West  in  the  midst  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  first  camping  place  was  on  Sugar  Creek,  where  the 
Saints  were  organized  by  Resident  Young.  The  roads  were 
almost  impassable,  and  the  Saints  suffered  much  from  cold 
and  exposure.  They  reached  Garden  Grove,  on  a  fork  of  Grand 
River,  145  miles  from  Nauvoo,  April  24th,  and  May  llth  went 
on  to  Mt.  Pissah.  172  miles  from  Xauvoo.  Here,  May  21st,  a 
general  council  of  the  camps  had  under  consideration  the  sub- 
ject of  sending  an  expedition  company  to  the  Pocky  Mountains 
that  year,  but  the  call  for  500  men  by  the  Government  to  fight 
with  Mexico,  made  that  impossible.  Four  companies  were  raised 
on  thfi  13th  and  the  fifth  a  few  days  later. 

They  left  this  place  June  5th  and  arrived  on  the  banks  of 
the  Missouri  River,  (Council  Bluffs),  on  the  14th.  The  last 
company  of  the  Mormon  Battalion  left  the  camps  of  the  Saints 
July  22nd  and  started  for  Fort  Levenworth.  A  boat  was  built 
and  some  of  the  Saints  crossed  the  river,  but  Cutler's  Park 
became  the  first  temporary  head-quarters  of  the  camps,  which 
is  three  miles  from  the  spot  where  Winter-Quarters  was  after- 
wards built.  —  Dates  from  Jenson's  Church  Chronology. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST  15 


3. — *TRIP  TO  SANTA  FE  AND  RETURN. 

"After  Col.  Allen  died,  Aug.  23rd,  1846,  at  Port  Levenworth, 
by  suggestion  of  Maj.  Horton,  Lieut.  Pace  returned  to  Council 
Bluffs,  bearing  letters  from  Lieut.  Smith  and  Dr.  Sanderson, 
Gulley  and  others  to  Pres.  Young.  He  arrived  at  Cutler's  Creek 
Aug.  26th,  sat  in  council,  answering  questions  and  received 
letters  of  special  council  for  the  Battalion,  which  was  some  45 
miles  out  beyond  Fort  Levenworth  continuing  on  their  march. 

Howard  Egan  and  John  Lee  accompanied  him  on  his  return 
with  a  special  duty  of  going  on  with  the  Battalion  until  they  re- 
ceived their  pay  and  to  return  with  it,  and  to  act  as  special 
messengers  returning  from  the  Battalion.  On  reaching  Fort 
Levenworth,  Maj.  Horton  charged  them  to  keep  with  one  train 
until  they  were  sure  of  reaching  another  the  same  night.  Fresh 
horses  and  all  the  grain  the  carriage  could  haul  were  furnished, 
also  three  packages  of  letters  for  different  commands  were 
sent.  They  left  the  Garrison  at  Fort  Levenworth  on  the  6th 
of  Sept.  and  overtook  the  Battalion  on  the  llth,  while  crossing 
the  Arkansas  River."  The  above  is  gleaned  from  the  "History  of 
the  Mormon  Battalion,"  and  the  following  is  some  of  the  head- 
ings of  chapters  of  the  same  work  during  the  travel  to  Santa  Fe. 

"Wagon  upset  and  man  injured— Higgins  detatchment  sent 
to  Peublo — Dissatisfaction — Alva  Phelps  drugged  to  death — 
Suffer  from  thirst — Forced  marches — men  salivated.  Rations 
reduced — Bones  of  mule  found — Ancient  Ruins — Rush  on  to  Santa 
Fe — Sick  left  to  follow  without  a  doctor— Arrived  at  Santa  Fe — 
Partiality  shown.  Col.  Cooke  takes  command  of  Battalion.  By 
special  arrangemnts  and  consent  the  Battallion  boys  were  paid 
in  checks  not  available  at  Santa  Fe. 

"About  noon  Oct.  19th  we  took  leave  of  Howard  Egan  and 
John  Lee,  who  started  with  our  checks  for  Council  Bluffs.  They 
were  accompanied  by  S.  L.  Gulley,  ex-quartermaster  and  R. 
Stevens.  The  Battallion  continued  on  the  same  day." 

The  following  from  the  Deseret  News  copied  from  the 
journals  kept  by  some  of  the  boys  adds  a  little  more  information. 
"Friday  Oct.  16th. — In  the  afternoon  Company  B.  drew  l1/^ 
months  pay,  $2.60  to  each  person  in  money,  the  rest  in  check. 
Oct.  17th. — Bros.  Lee  and  Egan  were  making  preparations  to 
return  to  the  Bluffs.  They  received  about  $4000  from  the  Bat- 
tallion to  take  back  with  them  to  the  Church. 

About  a  month  later,  Nov.  21st,  John  Lee  and  Howard  Egan 
arrived  at  Winter  Quarters,  as  special  messengers  from  the  camps 
of  the  Mormon  Battalion  beyond  Santa  Fee." 

Either  before  or  after  this  trip  he  established  his  family 
in  Winter  Quarters.  "The  settlement  consisted  of  700  houses 
of  log,  turf  and  other  materials;  and  was  laid  out  with  streets, 


16 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


workshops,  mills,  etc.,  and  a  Tabernacle  of  worship.  Winter 
Quarters  was  on  a  pretty  plateau  overlooking  the  river,  and 
was  built  for  protection  from  Indians.  There  were  22  Wards 
with  a  bishop  over  each,  also  a  High  Council;  and  the  popu- 
lation was  over  4000."  So  says  Whitney's  History. 

Howard  Egan's  log  hut  was  neatly  arranged  and  papered 
and  hung  with  pictures  and  otherwise  decorated  by  his  wife, 
which  made  it  very  pleasant  and  habitable.  Having  given  this 
little  prelude  of  the  facts  that  we  are  acquainted  with  we  now 
present  the  Pioneer  trip  in  the  language  of  Howard  Egan  as 
he  wrote  it  from  day  to  day  as  they  proceeded  on  their  journey. 
We  do  not  try  to  contract  or  expand  or  change  diction  only 
to  give  just  what  he  intended  to  say. 

We  first,  however,  insert  the  Pioneer  poem  and  the  names 
of  the  original  band  of  144  Pioneers  called  and  chosen  to  lead 
out  in  this  pioneering  work,  just  as  they  were  written  down  in 
his  Diary  including  Ellis  Ames,  who  returned  on  account  of  sick- 
ness, but  the  Diary  states  it  was  a  lack  of  faith.  Also  including 
the  three  women  and  two  children  that  went  along  with  them. 


S.   F.   KIMBAL.L, 

Burn    at     Winter    Quarters.       Author 
of    poem,    "The    Pioneers." 


P  I  O  X  E  E  R  I  X  G      T  H  E      W  E  S  T  17 


4.— THE  PIONEERS. 
By  Solomon  F  Kimball 

Faithful,   noble   men   of   worth. 

Men  A\ho  came  of  Pilgrim  birth, 
Who  were  sent  from  courts  above,  on  their  mission  to  the  earth; 

Sent  to  plant  the  family  tree, 

Xear  the  shores  of  Salt  Lake  Sea, 
And  to  build  their  happy  homes  and  family  hearth. 

First    there    came    that    bitter    test, 

Martyred  Prophets  laid  to  rest; 
Then  with  hearts  extremely  sad,  in  God's  Temple    they    were 

bless  M: 

Then  they  turned  their  backs  on  home, 

Faced  the  land  where  rednien  roam, 
And  departed  on  their  journey  to  the  west. 

O'er  mountains   they   would  go, 

Through  the  brush,  and  through  the  snow; 
Braving  dangers  night  and  day,  as  they  faced  the  savage  foe; 

Driving   o'er   the   rugged   heights, 

Standing  guard  on  stormy  nights. 
Nothing   daunted,   nothing  fearing,   weal  or  woe. 

Trailing  through  the  dust  and  heat, 

With  but  scanty  food  to  eat ; 
Tramping  o'er  the  rocky  hills,  with  their  bruised  and  bleeding 

feet: 

Oft  they  crossed  the  raging  streams, 

With   their  gall'd   and   jaded   teams, 
Oft  they  pushed  their  Avay  through  drenching  rain  and  sleet. 

When  they  reach 'd  the  salted  sea, 

Loud  they  shouted,  "Yic-to-ry!" 
Then  they  call'd  on  God  in  prayer,  with  bow'd  head  and  bended 

knee ; 

Then  they  made  the  welkin  ring. 

And  his  praises  they  did   sing. 
In  the  promised  land  that  He  had  made  so  free. 


18 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


5.— ORIGINAL  BAND   OF   144   PIONEERS 
With  Three  Women  and  Two  Children. 


FIRST  TEN. 

1  Wilford  Woodruff 

(captain). 

2  John  S.  Fowler. 

3  Jacob  D.  Burnham. 

4  Orson  Pratt. 

5  Joseph  Egbert. 

6  John  M.  Freeman. 

7  Marcus  B.  Thorpe. 

8  George  A.  Smith. 

9  George  Wardle. 

SECOND  TEN. 

10  Ezra  T.  Benson 

(captain). 

11  Thomas  B.  G  rover. 

12  Barnabas  L.  Adams. 

13  Roswell  Stevens. 

14  Amasa  M.  Lyman. 

15  Starling  G.  Driggs. 

16  Albert  Carrington. 

17  Thomas  Bullock. 

18  George  W.  Brown. 

19  Willard  Richards. 

20  Jesse  C.  Little. 

THIRD  TEN. 

21  Phineas  H.  Young 

(captain). 

22  John  Y.  Green. 

23  Thomas  Tanner. 

24  Brigham  Young. 

25  Addison  Everett. 

26  Truman  O.  Angell. 

27  Lorenzo  D.  Young. 

28  Bryant  Stringham. 

29  Joseph  S.  Scofield. 

30  Albert  P.  Rockwood. 


FOURTH  TEN. 

31  Luke  S.  Johnson 

(captain). 

32  John  G.  Holman. 

33  Edmund  Ellsworth. 

34  Alvarus  Hanks. 

35  George  R.  Grant. 

36  Milieu  Atwood. 

37  Samuel  B.  Fox. 

38  Tunis  Rappleyee. 

39  Eli  Harvey  Peirce. 

40  William  Dykes. 

41  Jacob  Weiler. 

FIFTH  TEN. 

42  Stephen  H.  Goddard 

(captain). 
43-  Tarlton  Lewis. 

44  Henry  C.  Sherwood. 

45  Zebedee   Coltrin. 

46  Sylvester  H.  Earl. 

47  John  Dixon. 

48  Samuel  H.  Marble. 

49  George  Schale*. 

50  William  Henri e. 

51  William  A.  Empey. 

SIXTH  TEN. 

52  Charles  Shumway 

(captain). 

53  Andrew  P.  Shumway 

54  Thos.  Woolsey. 

55  Chauncey    Loveland. 

56  Erastus   Snow. 

57  James   Craig. 

58  Wm.  Wordsworth. 

59  Wm.  P.  Vance. 

60  Simeon  F.  HoAvd. 

61  Seelev  Owen. 


PIOXEERING     THE      WEST 


SEVENTH  TEN. 

62  James  Case 

(captain). 

63  Artemas  Johnson. 
'64*AVm.  C.  A.  Smogt. 

65  B.  F.  Dewey. 

66  Wm.  Carter. 

67  Franklin  G.  Losee. 

68  Burr  Frost. 

69  Datus  Ensign. 

70  Franklin  B.  Stewart. 

71  Monroe  Frink. 

72  Eric  Glines. 
73.0zro   Eastman. 


EIGHTH  TEN. 

74  Seth  Taft 

(captain). 

75  Horace  Thornton. 

76  Stephen  Kelsey. 

77  John  S.  Eldredge. 

78  Charles  D.  Barnum. 

79  Alma  M.  Williams. 

80  Rufus  Allen. 

81  Robt.  T.  Thomas. 

82  Jas.  W.   Stewart. 

83  Elijah  Newman. 

84  Levi  X.  Kendall. 

85  Francis  Boggs. 

86  David  Grant. 

NINTH  TEN. 

88  Howard  Egan 

(captain). 

87  Heber  C.  Kimball. 

89  William  A.  King. 

90  Thomas  P.  Cloward. 

91  Hosea  Cushing. 

92  Robt.  Biard. 

93  George  V.  Billings. 

94  Edson  Whipple/ 

95  Philo  Johnson. 

96  Wm.  Clavton. 


TENTH  TEN. 

97  Appleton   M.  Harmon 

(captain). 

98  Carlos  Murray. 

99  Horace  K.  Whitney. 

100  Orson  K.  Whitney. 

101  Orrin  P.  Rockwell. 

102  Nathaniel  T.  Brown. 

103  R.  Jackson  Redding. 

104  John  Pack. 

105  Francis  Pomeroy. 

106  Aaron  F.  Farr.  " 

107  Nathaniel  Fairbanks. 

ELEVENTH  TEN. 

108  John  S.  Higbee 

(captain). 

109  John  Wheeler. 

110  Solomon  Chamberlain. 

111  Conrad  Kleinman. 

312  Joseph  Rooker. 

313  Perry  Fitzgerald. 

114  John  H.  Tippetts. 

115  James  Davenport. 
316  Henson  Walker. 
117  Benjamin  Rolfe. 

TWELFTH  TEN. 

US  Norton  Jacobs 
(captain). 

119  Charles  A.  Harper. 

120  George  Woodard. 

121  Stephen  Markham. 

122  Lewis  Barney. 

123  George  Mills. 
324  Andrew  Gibbons. 

125  Joseph  Hancock. 

126  John  W.  Norton. 

THIRTEENTH  TEN. 

131  John  Brown 
(captain). 

127  Shadrach  Roundy. 
329  Levi  Jackman. 


P  I  0  X  E  E  R  I N  G      THE      W  E  S  T 


130  Lyman  Curtis. 
128  Hans  C.  Hansen. 

132  Matthew  Ivory. 

133  David  Powers. 

134  Hark  Lay   (colored). 

135  Oscar   Crosby    (colored). 

FOURTEENTH  TEN. 

136  Joseph  Matthews 

(captain). 

137  Gilroid  Summe. 

138  John  Gleason. 


139  Charles  Burke. 

140  Alexander  P.  Chessley. 

141  Rodney  Badger. 

142  Norman  Taylor. 

143  Green  Flake   (colored). 

144  Ellis  Ames    ( returned). 

1  Harriet        Paire        Wheeler 

Young. 

2  Clara   Pecker   Y<.unir. 

3  Ellen   Sanders   Kimball. 
*Tsaac  Perry  T'cckcr. 
*Lorenzo  Sobieski  Young1. 

Survivores  are  designated  *. 


On    the    Way. 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


6.— A  DIARY  KEPT  BY  HOWARD  EGANt 
one  of  the  Pioneers  of  J847* 

FROM  WINTER  QUARTERS  (FLORENCE.  NEBRASKA)  TO  GREAT 
SALT  LAKE  VALLEY  AND  RETURN  TO  SWEETWATER. 

SEC.  II.     DETAILS  OF  TRIP  TO  SALT  LAKE. 

Thursday,  April  8th,  1847.— We  started  for  the  west  to  find 
a  home  for  the  Latter-day  Saints,  and  went  out  as  far  as  the 
Haystacks,  about  three  miles,  where  the  rest  of  the  boys  had 
already  preceded  us.  Brigham  Young's  camp  was  about  four 
miles  ahead.  Soon  after  we  arrived,  Porter  Rockwell  came  up 
on  horseback  and  informed  us  that  P.  P.  Pratt  had  just  arrived 
at  Winter  Quarters  from  England,  and  that  0.  ifyde  and  John 
Taylor  were  soon  expected.  We  went  back  home  in  the  carriage 
to  pass  the  night,  in  company  with  Heber,  Bishop  Whitney,  Sis- 
ter Kimball  and  Horace. 

Friday,  April  9th. — It  was  fine  weather  for  traveling,  and 
we  went  back  to  where  we  left  our  wagons  and  continued  our 
journey.  Wm.  Kimball  went  with  us  and  intends  going  as  far 
as  the  "Elkhorn. "  We  went  about  four  miles  and  came  to 
Brigham  Young's  camp,  but  did  not  stop,  going  on  three  miles 
further  and  encamped  for  the  night,  having  made  ten  miles. 

Saturday,  April  10th. — It  was  a  fine  day,  as  usual,  and  we 
traveled  fifteen  miles  and  encamped  on  the  prairie  near  a  ravine, 
which  supplied  us  with  water,  for  the  night,  we  being  now  six 
miles  from  the  "Horn"  river. 

Sunday,  April  llth. — There  was  fine  weather,  and  we  started 
in  good  season  and  arrived  at  the  "Horn"  about  2  o'clock  p.  m. 
There  were  72  wagons  crossed  the  river  on  a  raft  drawn  by  cat- 
tle with  ropes  on  either  side.  Brother  Bullock,  Dr.  Richards' 
clerk,  took  down  the  number  of  the  wagons  as  they  passed.  \Ve 
went  down  the  river  about  a  mile,  after  crossing,  and  encamped 
for  the  night.  Father  (*H.  C.  Kimball)  told  the  brethren  of  his 
company  that  he  hoped  that  they  would  not  go  hunting  or  fish- 
ing today,  for  if  they  did  they  would  not  prosper,  as  this  was  a 
day  set  apart  for  the  service  of  the  Lord  and  not  for  trivial 
amusements. 

Monday,  April  12th. — It  was  fair  weather,  and  Pres.  Brig- 
ham  Young.  Father  ( 'Heber  C.  Kimball),  Bishop  Whitney  and 


22 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


a  number  of  ethers  went  back  to  Winter  Quarters,  the  rest  of 
us  going  on,  by  counsel,  in  order  to  cross  an  extensive  bottom 
of  twelve  miles  before  the  water  should  rise  and  the  roads  get 
muddy.  Accordingly  we  went  on  and  encamped  on  the  banks  of 
the  Platte  river,  the  width  of  which  much  surprised  me.  it  being 
larger  than  I  had  anticipated.  Here  we  intend  to  remain  until 
the  Twelve  Apostles  return.  The  brethren  were  called  together 
this  evening  by  S.  Markham,  who  stated  to  them  that  it  was  the 
wish  of  the  Twelve  that  some  men  familiar  with  the  route  should 
go  ahead  and  survey  the  track.  Accordingly,  Father  (James) 
Case,  J.  Redding  and  two  others  will  start  tomorrow  for  that 


Gathering  on  the  Elk  Horn   River. 


Tuesday,  April  13th. — This  morning  was  warm  ami  pleasant, 
the  wind  being  west.  The  blacksmiths  put  up  their  forges,  three 
in  number,  Brothers  Devenport,  Frost  and  Tanner,  and  com- 
menced setting  tires  and  shoeing  horses.  With  the  assistance 
of  the  boys  I  propped  up  my  wagon  box  and  took  out  the  run- 
ning gears,  and  Brother  Harper  went  to  work  and  put  in  two 
new  axcltrees.  Those  who  went  to  hunt  out  the  road  returned 
this  evening  and  reported  unfavorable,  as  there  was  a  low,  flat 
bottom  that  could  not  be  crossed  in  wet  weather.  It  has  the 
appearance  of  rain  this  evening.  The  wind  shifted  to  the  east 
and  it  looked  cloudy.  Brother  S.  ACarkham  called  the  brethren 
together  and  gave  some  general  instruction  and  placed  the  ^nanl. 


PIONEER  IX  G      THE      WEST 23 

Wednesday,  April  14th. — This  morning  it  was  raining,  but 
about  10  a.  m.  it  cleared  off,  there  being  high  winds  and  some- 
what cloudy.  J.  Higby,  J.  Redding  and  four  or  five  others  went 
up  the  river  with  the  <eine  to  hunt  a  place  to  fish,  and  returned 
in  the  evening  with  about  two  dozen  fish.  My  horses  strayed 
away  and  I  took  Brother  Redding 's  horse  and  went  across  to- 
wards the  "Horn"  and  found  them,  one  of  which  I  succeeded  in 
catching;  the  other  I  could  not,  but  had  to  return  without  her 
to  the  camp. 

Thursday,  April  15th. — This  morning  was  cool  and  pleasant. 
Brother  King  and  myself  started  early  in  search  of  my  horse 
and  found  her  ten  miles  from  the  camp.  Some  of  the  brethren 
went  across  to  the  ''Horn1'  to  fish.  About  3  p.  m.  the  Twelve, 
Brother  Clayton.  Brother  Whitney.  Brother  Little,  from  New 
Hampshire.  Brother  Bullock.  Wm.  Kimball  and  others  returned 
to  the  camp  and  we  commenced  forthwith  to  rig  up  our  wagons. 
About  sundown  President  Young  called  the  brethren  together 
and  instructed  them  to  have  a  care  of  their  teams,  and  cease  all 
music,  dancing  and  lightmindedness ;  and  instructed  them,  ex- 
horted them  to  prayer  and  faithfulness.  He  also  stated  that  the 
traders  and  missionaries  were  stirring  up  the  Indians  to  plunder 
us  of  our  horses  and  goods.  He  said  that  if  we  were  faithful 
and  obeyed  counsel  the  Lord  would  bless  us  and  we  should  pass 
through  safe. 

Tuesday,  April  16th. — This  morning  the  wind  was  north  and 
it  was  cloudy.  Brothers  Little.  Rockwood  and  Redding  went  to 
Winter  Quarters  to  bring  on  Brother  Little's  things.  At  7:30 
the  brethren  were  called  together  in  order  to  organize  them.  The 
meeting  Avas  opened  by  prayer  by  President  Young,  after  which 
G.  A.  Smith  made  some  remarks;  also  H.  C.  Kimball,  N.  K. 
Whitney  and  others.  The  camp  was  divided  into  two  divisions, 
72  in  each  division ;  A.  P.  Rockwood  captain  of  the  First  and  S. 
Markham  of  the  Second  Division.  Night  guard  was  started  and 
on  the  17th  the  camp  was  organized  under  regiment.  On  the 
18th  the  Council  of  Captains  made  laws  regulating  the  camp  as 
follows : 

LAWS  OR  RULES. 

1. — After  this  date  the  horn  or  bugle  shall  be  blown  every 
morning  at  5  a.  m..  when  every  man  is  expected  to  arise  and 
prav ;  then  attend  to  his  team,  get  breakfast  and  have  every- 
thing finished  so  that  the  camp  may  start  by  7  o'clock. 

2.— Each  extra  man  is  to  travel  on  the  off  side  of  the  team 
with  his  gun  on  his  shoulder,  loaded,  and  each  driver  have  his 
gun  so  placed  that  he  can  lay  hold  of  it  at  a  moment's  warning. 


24 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

Every  man  must  have  a  piece  of  leather  over  the  nipple  of  his 
gun,  or  if  it  is  a  flintlock,  in  the  pan,  having  caps  and  powder- 
flask  ready. 

3. — The  brethren  will  halt  for  an  hour  about  noon,  and  they 
must  have  their  dinner  ready  cooked  so  as  not  to  detain  the 
camp  for  cooking. 

4. — When  the  camp  halts  for  the  night,  wagons  are  to  be 
drawn  in  a  circle,  and  the  horses  to  be  all  secured  inside  the 
circle  when  necessary. 

5. — The  horn  will  blow  at  8:30  p.  m.,  when  every  man  must 
return  to  his  wagon  and  pray,  except  the  night  guard,  and  be  in 
bed  by  9  o'clock,  at  which  time  all  fires  must  be  put  out. 

6. — The  camp  is  to  travel  in  close  order,  and  no  man  to 
leave  the  camp  twenty  rods  without  orders  from  the  Captain. 

7. — Every  man  is  to  put  as  much  interest  in  taking  care  of 
his  brother's  cattle,  in  preserving  them,  as  lie  would  hi>  o\vn, 
and  no  man  will  be  indulged  in  idleness. 

8. — Every  man  is  to  have  his  gun  and  pistol  in  perfect  order. 

9. — Let  all  start  and  keep  together,  and  let  the  cannon  bring 
up  the  rear,  and  the  company  guard  to  attend  it,  traveling  along 
with  the  gun.  and  see  that  nothing  is  left  behind  at  each  stopping 
place. 

INVENTORY. 

The  number  of  oxen  in  the  camp  00,  horses  89,  mules  52, 
cows  19,  dogs  17.  Teams  belonging  to  H.  C.  Kimball :  Horses 
5,  mules  7,  oxen  0,  cows  2,  dog.-;  2.  wagons  6.  List  of  provisions: 
Flour  1228  Ibs.,  meat  805  Ibs.,  sea  biscuit  125  Ibs.,  beans  290  Ibs., 
bacon  241  Ibs.,  corn  for  teams  2809  Ibs.,  buckwheat  300  Ibs.,  dried 
beef  25  Ibs.,  groceries  290%  Ibs.,  sole  leather  15  Ibs.,  oats  10  bus., 
rape  40  Ibs.,  seeds  71  Ibs.,  cross-cut  saw  1,  axes  0,  scythe  1,  hoes 
3,  log  chains  5,  spade  1,  crowbar  1,  tent  1,  kes'  of  powder  25  Ibs., 
lead  20  Ibs.,  codfish  40  Ibs.,  garden  seeds  50  Ibs..  plows  2,  bran 
3^  bus.,  1  side  of  harness  leather,  whip  saw  1,  iron  10  Ibs., 
nails  10  Ibs.,  1  sack  of  salt  200  Ibs.,  -saddles  2.  tool  chest  worth 
$75,  6  pair  of  double' harness  worth  about  $200.  total  amount  of 
breadstuff  2507  Ibs.  at  $55.40.  241  Ibs.  of  bacon  at  Oc.  $14.40; 
2809  Ibs.  feed  corn  $28.09;  300  Ibs.  seeds  $3.00,  300  Ibs.  buck- 
wheat $0.00.  25  Ibs.  dried  beef  $3.1 2H.  groceries  $35,  sole 
leather  $4,  oats  $4.  rape  $10.  seeds  $10,  hoes  $2,  axes  $8,  keg 
of  powder  $10.  lead  $2,  codfish  $2.  200  Ibs.  salt  $8.  tool  chest 
$75,  cross-cut  saw  $5.  whip  saw  $5.  scythe  $2.  hoes  $1.50,  5  log 
chains  $20.  spade  $2,  crowbar  -*3,  2  plows  $24,  side  of  harness 
leather  $4.  10  Ibs.  iron  $2.  10  Ibs.  nails  $2.  tent  $10.  hanics-  $20, 
5  horses  $300,  7  mules  $350,  ('•  wagons  $000,  2  saddles  $30,  bran 
$1,  3  yoke  of  cattle  $120,  2  cows  $24.  Total  $1592.87y2. 


P  I  0  X  E  E  R  I  X  G      THE      WEST 


After  the  organization  we  prepared  for  traveling.  Brother 
Whitney.  Win.  Kimball  and  Lyman  Whitney  prepared  to  return 
home.  Father  Kimball  took  William  into  the  wagon  and  blessed 
him.  William  was  very  much  affected.  About  3  p.  m.  we  moved 
off  and  traveled  three  miles  and  encamped  for  the  night.  About 
dark  the  wind  blew  up  from  the  north  very  cold.  AVe  took  our 
horses  and  cattle  down  in  the  timber  and  cut  down  trees  and 
made  a  fence  to  put  our  horses  in,  and  placed  a  guard  around 
them,  selected  for  that  purpose,  aside  from  the  regular  camp 
guard. 

Saturday,  April  17th. — This  morning  was  cold  and  the 
wind  northwest.  At  9  o'clock  we  started  on  our  journey,  the 
wind  blowing  very  strong,  which  made  it  very  disagreeable,  as 
it  was  a  sandy  road.  We  came  seven  miles  and  encamped  near 
a  beautiful  grove  of  cottonwood.  This  evening  a  trader  from 
the  Pawnee  village  encamped  near  us.  He  had  one  wagon 
loaded  with  buffalo  robes.  At  sundown  the  bugle  sounded  for 
the  brethren  to  come  together.  President  Young  said  it  was 
necessary  to  have  a  military  organization  before  Ave  left  this 
place.  It  was  moved  and  carried  that  the  two  divisions  be 
formed  into  one  regiment,  under  Colonel  Markham.  There  were 
also  two  majors  appointed,  John  Pack  and  Shadrack  Roundy, 
and  Thomas  Tanner  to  take  command  of  the  camp.  Each  cap- 
tain was  to  command  his  own  ten  in  case  of  an  attack  from 
the  Indians. 

Father  (  "Heber  C.)  Kiraball  has  taken  Brother  William 
Clayton  into  his  mess.  Sister  Ellen  Sanders  and  myself,  with 
others,  make  up  the  mess,  and  I  thank  the  Lord  for  the  privi- 
lege of  being  one  of  the  number  and  enjoying  the  society  of 
my  father  Heber.  Ellis  Ames  returned  from  this  place  in  con-1 
sequence  of  sickness,  so  he  said,  but  I  think  he  is  weak  in  the 
faith. 

Sunday,  April  18th. — This  morning  there  was  high  winds 
from  the  south  and  very  cold.  Today,  being  the  day  set  apart 
by  the  Almighty  God  for  His  people  to  rest,  we  do  not  intend 
to  travel.  Three  wagons  loaded  with  furs  passed  this  morning-, 
also  four  or  five  pack  mules,  a  short  time  afterward,  going  to 
the  settlements.  H.  C.  Kimball  wrote  a  letter  to  his  companion 
this  morning  and  sent  it  by  Brother  Ames,  the  contents  of  which 
I  heard  read  and  it  done  my  heart  good.  It  portrayed  the  feel- 
ings of  his  heart  and  his  affection  for  his  family,  in  the  most 
simple  and  beautiful  language  that  would  touch  the  soul  and 
cause  the  heart  to  rejoice. 

The  wind  continued  to  blow  so  hard,  and  it  was  so  cold,  it 
was  thought  wisdom  not  to  call  the  brethren  together  to  have 


_26 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

meeting.  The  Twelve  retired  back  in  the  woods  to  council  one 
with  the  other.  About  sundown  President  Young  called  the 
Captains  together  and  gave  them  the  following  instructions: 
At  8:30  p.  m.  the  bugle  would  sound  and  all  should  retire  to 
their  wagons  and  bow  before  the  Lord  and  offer  up  their  sup- 
plications before  going  to  bed,  and  all  fires  should  be  put  out ; 
also  the  bugle  would  sound  at  5  a.  m.,  when  all  would  arise 
and  offer  up  their  thanks  to  the  Lord,  and  at  7  o'clock  be  ready 
to  start.  All  the  spare  hands  were  to  walk  by  the  off  side  of 
their  wagons  with  their  rifles  loaded.  The  weather  continues 
very  cold. 

Monday,  April  19th. — This  morning  the  weather  was  fair, 
calm  and  pleasant.  At  5  a.  m.  the  bugle  sounded  for  all  hands 
to  turn  out  and  return  thanks  to  the  Lord.  At  7:30  the  camp 
was  in  motion  with  orders  to  travel  in  double  file.  We  passed 
•over  a  beautiful  level  prairie  in  sight  of  the  Platte  river,  and 
passed  a  number  of  small  lakes  between  us  and  the  river.  The 
brethren  shot  a  number  of  ducks  as  we  passed  along.  At  1 :30 
p.  m.  we  stopped  to  feed  near  a  bend  in  the  river,  after  travel- 
ing thirteen  miles.  While  there  0.  P.  Rockwell,  J.  Redding, 
Brother  Little  and  Thomas  Brown  arrived  from  Winter  Quar- 
ters and  brought  a  number  of  letters  for  the  brethren.  I  re- 
ceived one  from  Brother  Jacob  Feryier,  who  has  my  thanks 
for  his  kindness.  I  also  heard  that  my  family  was  all  well, 
which  I  thank  the  Lord  for.  At  2:40  p.  m.  we  started  on  our 
journey  and  came  eight  miles  and  encamped  in  a  circle,  in  order 
to  have  our  horses  and  cattle  in  the  center  to  secure  them  from 
the  Indians,  with  the  guard  placed  outside  of  the  wagons.  This 
•evening  looks  cloudy  and  the  wind  blows  fresh  from  the  north. 
Brother  John  Rigby  and  several  others  went  down  the  river 
two  miles  with  the  boat  and  seine  to  seek  a  place  to  fish,  and 
after  being  gone  about  two  hours  returned  with  only  two  fish. 
I  had  the  pleasure  this  evening  of  sitting  in  Bi'other  Horace 
Whitney's  wagon  to  write.  Brother  Harper  gave  Father 
(*Heber  C.)  Kimball  two  ducks  he  shot  today.  Brother  Kim- 
ball  gave  one  of  them  to  President  Young.  Brother  Hanson 
also  let  him  have  two  snipes. 

Tuesday,  April  20th. — This  morning  I  arose  at  4:30  a.  m. 
and  took  my  horses  out  to  feed  and  then  commenced  getting 
breakfast  at  6:30.  We  made  a  first-rate  breakfast  of  our  wild 
fowls.  At  7:30  we  started,  it  being  clear  weather  but  very  high 
winds  from  the  southwest.  We  traveled  about  six  miles  and 
crossed  a  small  stream  called  Shell  creek,  about  two  miles  from 
the  Platte  river,  then  went  on  about  four  miles  and  stopped  to 
.feed,  which  made  ten  miles  this  forenoon.  Three  deer  ran  past 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 27_ 

our  camp  within  a  half  mile.  Brothers  Porter  and  Brown  ran 
them  with  their  horses,  but  could  not  get  within  gunshot  of 
them.  J.  Higby,  L.  Johnson  and  S.  Markham  and  some  others 
started  a  half  hour  ahead  this  morning,  with  the  boat  and  seine 
and  three  wagons  with  them,  to  fish.  President  Young  and  H. 
C.  Kimball  went  ahead  this  afternoon  to  pick  out  a  camping 
place.  About  4:30  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  spot,  after  traveling 
ten  miles.  It  is  a  beautiful  place  near  the  banks  of  the  river. 

We  took  our  horses  across  a  small  branch  of  the  river, 
where  there  was  plenty  of  cottonwood  for  them,  and  then  put 
our  oxen  and  cows  inside  of  the  circle.  Those  who  went  fishing 
returned  A\ith  a  large  quantity  of  fish  that  they  caught  in  a 
small  lake  one  mile  above  where  we  are  encamped.  I  cooked 
one  for  supper,  a  large  buffalo  fish.  President  Young  came 
into  our  wagon  and  ate  supper  with  Father  (*Heber  C.)  Kim- 
ball.  This  evening  the  wind  blo\vs  fresh  from  the  northwest. 
Father  Kimball  sits  close  by  me  writing  a  letter  to  his  com- 
panion. Tt  is  about  10  p.  m. ;  Dr.  Richards  has  just  come  to 
our  wagon  to  inquire  for  Brother  Markham.  They  thought,  as 
the  Pawnees  were  encamped  only  eight  miles  from  us,  it  was 
necessary  to  have  a  patrol  guard  out  tonight. 

Wednesday,  April  21st. — It  is  cloudy  weather  and  has  the 
appearance  of  rain,  with  wind  from  the  northeast.  At  7  a.  m. 
the  bugle  Bounded  for  the  ox  teams  to  start,  and  at  7:30  we 
started.  The  horse  teams  started  about  two  hours  after  we 
started.  We  met  five  or  six  Pawnee  Indians.  We  traveled 
about  eight  miles  and  came  in  sight  of  the  Pawnee  village.  Two> 
of  the  chiefs  and  a  number  of  the  Indians  came  to  our  camp. 
Father  Kimball  gave  them  some  tobacco  and  salt.  President 
Young  gave  them  some  powder  and  lead  and  other  things.  They 
manifested  some  dissatisfaction  because  they  did  not  receive 
more  presents,  and  told  us  AVC  must  go  back.  We  paid  no  atten- 
tion to  them.  At  2  p.  m.  AVC  continued  our  journey  and  traveled 
ten  miles.  About  tAventy  minutes  after  AVO  started  Ave  had  a 
severe  thunderstorm  and  rain  fell  in  torrents,  Avhich  lasted  about 
thirtv  minutes,  and  it  bleAV  a  gale  all  the  afternoon  from  the 
nortliAvest.  At  5  p.  m.  we  encamped  near  the  Loop  Fork,  which 
is  a  large  stream  that  empties  into  the  Platte.  About  sundown 
the  bucle  sounded  for  all  the  brethren  to  come  together.  Col- 
onel Markham  called  off  100  men  to  stand  guard,  50  the  first 
part  of  the  nieht  and  50  the  latter  part.  Porter  Rockwell  took 
charge  of  ten  men  as  picket  guard.  I  stood  guard  until  10  p.  m. 
It  was  a  bitter  cold  night. 

Thursday,  April  22d. — It  continues  cold  Avith  Avind  north- 
east. We  traveled  two  miles  and  crossed  a  small  stream  called 


_28 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

the  Looking  Glass  creek.  We  went  on  eight  miles  and  stopped 
to  feed  near  a  stream  called  Bear  creek,  making  ten  miles  this 
forenoon.  At  2  o'clock  we  hitched  up  and  started.  We  were 
under  the  necessity  of  having  men  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
creek  we  were  crossing,  with  a  rope  to  help  our  wagons  up,  as 
the  bank  was  so  steep  we  could  not  get  up  without  help. 

This  afternoon  we  traveled  through  a  beautiful  country, 
with  the  Loop  Fork  on  one  side  and  a  ridge  on  the  other  and 
groups  of  trees  that  resembled  orchards  in  an  old  settled  coun- 
try. We  came  seven  miles  and  stopped  at  the  old  Missionary 
station  that  was  vacated  last  summer.  The  Sioux  Indians  drove 
them  off.  There  is  quite  a  large  farm  fenced  in  and  some  very 
good  buildings  on  it.  We  had  plenty  of  corn  fodder  and  hay 
for  our  teams.  It  is  the  prettiest  location  that  I  have  seen  this 
side  of  the  Mississippi  river.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  day  the 
wind  moderated  and  this  evening  it  is  warm  and  pleasant.  Cap- 
tain Tanner  exercised  his  men  at  the  cannon.  President  Young 
called  the  brethren  together  and  forbid  them  taking  anything 
off.  of  the  premises.  Twenty  men  was  thought  sufficient  tonight 
to  guard  the  camp. 

Friday,  April  23d. — This  morning  was  warm  and  pleasant. 
Brigham.  Heber  and  others  started  on  at  7:45  a.  m.  to  look  out 
a  fording  place  to  cross  the  Loop  Fork.  While  they  were  gone 
Sister  Ellen  and  myself  took  the  opportunity  to  wash.  They 
returned  at  11 :45  a.  m.  and  reported  that  we  could  go  about  four 
miles  and  build  a  raft.  Tarlton  Lewis  was  appointed  to  build 
it.  About  1  o'clock  the  wagons  started  and  we  crossed  a  small 
creek,  soon  after,  called  Plum  creek.  We  traveled  about  t\v<> 
miles  and  crossed  another  stream.  I  could  not  find  out  the 
name.  Father  Kimball  said  to  call  it  Looking  Glass  creek,  be- 
cause it  was  very  clear. 

At  3  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  fording  place  and  found  that 
a  raft  could  be  of  no  use  and  concluded  to  ford  it.  Luke  John- 
son was  the  first  that  crossed  the  river.  He  took  the  boat  off 
and  crossed  with  an  empty  wagon.  Brother  Orson  Pratt  took 
out  part  of  his  load  and  got  about  half  way  across  and  could 
not  get  any  further.  Four  or  five  of  us  waded  out  to  his  as- 
sistance. The  water  in  some  places  was  waist  deep.  Brigham 
came  as  near  as  he  could  with  the  boat  and  we  took  the  valuable 
part  of  his  load  and  put  it  on  board  and  went  on  a  little  far- 
ther, when  one  of  his  horses  fell  down.  It  was  with  difficulty 
we  saved  them.  We  loosened  them  from  the  wagon  and  hauled 
it  over  by  hand.  Brothers  Pack  and  Woodruff  crossed  safe. 
President  Young  ordered  them  to  stop  crossing  wagons  today. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


We  went  about  a  half  mile  up  the  river  and  encamped  till  morn- 
ing-, which  was  at  5:30  p.  m.  The  day  was  very  hot. 

A  little  after  dark  President  Young  called  the  captains  to- 
gether to  council  which  was  the  best  way  to  cross  the  river. 
Brother  Rockwood  motioned  to  build  three  rafts  to  take  across 
the  goods,  and  the  empty  wagons  to  ford  the  river.  Brother 
Kimball  motioned  to  build  one  first  and  try  it  before  there 
was  any  more  built,  as  it  was  doubtful  whether  there  could  be 
any  used.  Brothers  Lewis  and  Woolsey  were  appointed  to  take 
charge  of  building  the  raft.  Brother  Markharn  was  to  go  and 
pick  out  the  best  fording  place  and  stake  it  out,  and  drive  all 
the  loose  cattle  over.  The  leaders  informed  us  that  the  sand 
would  pack  down  and  make  better  traveling. 

Saturday,  April  24th. — This  morning  one  of  President 
Young's  horses  was  found  dead.  He  was  chained  near  a  large 
hole  and  fell  in  and  choked  himself.  The  morning  was  very 
pleasant.  H.  C.  Kimball  and  Lorenzo  Young  went  up  the  river 
about  a  mile  to  see  if  they  could  find  a  better  fording  place. 
I  \vas  requested  to  go  along  with  them.  Brother  Woodard  and 
myself  went  across  the  river,  but  found  some  places  very  diffi- 
cult for  crossing.  On  our  return  we  found  they  had  commenced 
crossing  wagons,  about  8  a.  m.  We  took  half  the  load  out  of 
some  of  our  wagons  and  doubled  our  teams  and  crossed  without 
any  difficulty.  Brother  Kimball  marched  in  the  water  with 
the  rest  of  us.  At  3  p.  m.  all  the  wagons  were  over  on  the 
sandbar  safe,  and  at  4  o'clock  all  were  over  safe.  We  started 
on  again  and  traveled  about  three  miles  southwest,  up  the  river. 
It  was  a  sandy  bottom  and  more  bare  of  grass  than  on  the  other 
side.  We  encamped  on  the  Avest  side  of  a  small  lake,  near  the 
river.  There  was  plenty  of  sunfish  in  it.  Brother  Clayton 
caught  a  mess  for  us  and  they  were  first-rate.  All  hands  were 
tired  working,  crossing  over  the  river.  I  thank  the  Lord  the 
morrow  is  a  day  of  rest. 

Sunday,  April  25th. — This  morning  we  had  fair  weather 
with  wind  south.  We  took  all  our  teams  out  to  feed  and  left 
some  hands  to  watch  them.  At  5  p.  m.  a  meeting  was  called 
at  the  wagon  of  President  Young.  Remarks  \vere  made  by  sev- 
eral and  instructions  given  by  President  Young,  chiefly  in  refer- 
ence to  the  folly  of  conforming  to  Gentile  customs  on  an  expedi- 
tion of  this  nature.  There  were  eight  men  selected  to  hunt  on 
horses,  also  to  hunt  on  foot. 

Monday,  April  26th. — This  morning  about  3:30  an  alarm 
was  given.  The  guard  on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  camp 
discovered  some  Indians  crawling  up  to  the  wagons.  They  fired 
at  them,  when  six  Indians  jumped  up  and  ran.  All  hands  were 


30 PIONEERING      THE      WES  T 

up  and  prepared  for  action  in  a  few  minutes,  under  their  re- 
spective captains.  Nothing-  more  was  seen  of  the  Indians.  At 
8  a.  m.  the  camp  started.  There  is  no  road  here,  consequently 
President  Young,  Kimball  and  some  others  went  ahead  on 
horseback  to  hunt  out  the  best  track.  We  traveled  about  seven 
miles  and  stopped  at  11 :30,  near  some  holes  of  water,  to  feed 
our  teams.  At  1 :45  all  the  wagons  were  on  the  way.  At 
6:1.5  we  encamped  near  a  small  creek,  having  come  seven  miles, 
which  makes  fourteen  miles  today. 

About  3  o'clock  Brother  Matthews  was  out  hunting  his 
horses  and  saw  a  horse  at  a  distance,  supposing  it  to  be  Brother 
Little's,  went  toward  him.  Before  he  got  near  him  the  horse 
j>ut  off  at  full  speed  toward  the  river.  He  then  supposed  there 
was  an  Indian  on  him.  He  returned  to  the  camp  and  gave  the 
alarm,  when  five  or  six  men  jumped  on  their  horses  and  fol- 
lowed in  the  direction,  but  could  not  see  or  hear  anything1  of 
the  Indian.  When  they  returned  President  Young  and  Kim- 
ball  with  some  others  went  out  on  horseback  in  search  of  him 
and  traveled  till  11  o'clock,  but  could  not  see  anything  of  him 
and  returned.  Dr.  Richard's  horse  is  gone. 

Tuesday,  April  27tli.— At  8 :30  a.  m.  the  wagons  commenced 
moving  off.  We  traveled  twelve  miles  and  stopped  about  2:15 
p.  m.,  coming  nearly  a  south  course.  0.  P.  Rockwell  and 
others  went  back  to  look  for  the  horses  that  were  lost.  We 
stopped  at  noon  near  a  ravine,  where  feed  was  very  good  but 
no  water.  We  dug  about  four  feet  and  got  a  little  water  for 
our  horses.  At  3:15  the  teams  started  again.  Brother  AVood- 
ruff  and  two  others  shot  an  antelope.  President  Young  and 
Kimball  are  still  ahead.  We  traveled  four  miles  and  encamped 
at  5:30  for  the  night.  Soon  after  we  arrived  it  began  to  thun- 
der and  lightning,  and  gave  us  a  light  shower  with  very  heavy 
wind.  Those  who  went  to  hunt  the  horses  returned.  They  re- 
ported that  thev  went  back  near  whore  we  were  encamped  April 
26th,  and  saw  fifteen  Indians  Avell  armed.  They  endeavored  to 
get  near  enough  to  get  hold  of  the  horses  by  pretending  friend- 
ship, but  the  brethren  would  not  let  them  come  near.  One  of 
the  brethren  cocked  his  pistol  and  pointed  it  at  one  of  them, 
when  they  all  ran.  After  they  got  off  a  little  distance  they 
turned  and  fired  a  shot  at  the  brethren.  They  did  not  see  the 
losr  horses  and  the  shot  did  not  take  effect.  About  the  time 
the  brethren  returned,  a  rifle  accidental! v  went  off,  which  was 
in  Brother  Brown's  wjtirun.  and  broke  the  ri»ht  fore  ley  of  a 
horse.  That  makes  four  of  the  best  horses  in  the  camp  lost  in 
the  last  four  days. 

Wednesday,  April  28th.— This  morning  was  fine  and  pleas- 


PIOXEERIXG      THE      WEST 31_ 

ant,  and  we  commenced  crossing  a  small  creek  about  9  a.  m. 
The  last  wagon  got  over  at  10  o'clock.  President  Young  and 
Kimball  went  ahead  to  point  out  the  track.  While  we  were 
crossing  the  creek  Luke  Johnson  shot  the  horse  that  had  its  leg 
broken.  We  traveled  about  a  south  course  about  eleven  miles 
and  stopped  to  feed  near  the  main  Platte  river  about  2:30.  At 
4  p.  m.  we  started  again  and  traveled  four  miles  and  encamped 
about  6  o'clock,  having  traveled  fifteen  miles  today.  The  even- 
ing was  cool  and  cloudy. 

Thursday,  April  29th. — The  morning  was  cool,  and  we 
started  to  find  better  feed  for  our  horses,  traveling  three  miles, 
and  stopped  at  6:30  to  breakfast.  At  8:20  we  started  and  trav- 
eled about  two  miles  and  crossed  a  very  pretty  stream  of  water. 
We  stopped  at  1  p.  m.  near  a  lake  to  feed,  having  traveled  about 
ten  miles.  At  2:30  we  started  again  and  traveled  about  eight 
miles,  when  we  stopped  at  6  o'clock.  The  wind  was  southwest 
and  cold. 

Friday,  April  30th. — The  morning  was  cool  and  pleasant. 
At  8:20  a.  m.  we  again  started,  stopping  at  12  noon  to  feed, 
near  a  small  creek,  having  traveled  eight  miles.  At  1:20  p.  m. 
we  started  again,  the  wind  blowing  tremendously  strong  from 
the  north  and  very  cold.  We  traveled  about  eight  miles  and 
stopped  about  5  p.  m.  and  encamped  about  two  miles  from  the 
river  near  a  bluff,  with  neither  wood  nor  water.  We  picked  up 
some  xdrv'  buffalo  dung,  which  made  a  very  good  fire,  and  we 
dug  a  well  and  found  plenty  of  water. 


P  1 ( )  X  K  K  R  I  X  G      T  1 1  K      \Y  E  S  T 


7.— LARAMIE  PLAINS,  MAY,  1847. 

Saturday,  May  1st,  1847. — This  morning  was  very  cold  and, 
as  feed  was  very  poor,  it  was  no\v  thought  best  to  start  before 
breakfast,  which  was  done  at  5:20  a.  m.,  stopping  at  8:15  to  feed, 
having  come  six  miles.  Soon  after  we  started  this  morning  we- 
saw  three  buffaloes  about  two  miles  off  on  the  bluffs.  Three 
of  the  brethren  went  in  chase  of  them  on  horseback.  We  could 
see  a  large  herd  of  buffaloes  a  few  miles  ahead.  At  10:15  we 
again  starte'd.  Those  who  started  after  the  buffalo  early  this 
morning  returned,  but  they  did  not  kill  any.  There  were  seven 
or  eight  hunters  picked  out  to  charge  on  the  large  herd,  some 
being  footmen  scattered  out.  Before  the  brethren  got  to  them 
they  got  started  by  one  of  our  dog's  that  ran  an  antelope  near 
them.  H.  C.  Kimball  now  started  across  and  headed  them  off 
and  killed  the  first  one,  and  helped  to  kill  two  others.  Soon 
after,  H.  C.  Kimball,  S.  Rockwood  and  others  returned,  arid  one 
of  our  teams  that  George  Billings  drove,  was  sent  out  with  two 
others  to  bring  in  the  buffalo  meat.  There  was  one  bull,  three 
cows  and  six  calves  killed. 

Brother  Joseph  Hancock  \vent  off  early  this  morning  on 
foot  and  has  not  been  seen  or  heard  from  up  to  this  evening. 
Curing  the  afternoon  we  traveled  eight  miles,  and  encamped 
about  6:30  near  a  small  lake  about  a  mile  above  the  head  of 
Grand  island.  This  day  we  traveled  about  eighteen  miles. 

Sunday,  May  2d, — This  morning  is  cold  but  clear  weather, 
and  the  ice  is  about  an  inch  thick.  A  buffalo  calf  came  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  camp  last  night  and  one  of  the  guards 
shot  it  in  the  thigh  and  brought  it  into  the  camp  alive.  Just 
before  breakfast  Brother  Hancock  came  into  camp  and  reported 
that  he  had  shot  a  buffalo  yesterdav  afternoon  and  got  lost. 
He  was  about  four  miles  from  the  camp,  built  a  fire  and  cooked 
supper;  returning  on  horseback,  he  shot  an  antelope  on  the  way. 
This  morning  we  cut  up  a  quarter  of  a  buffalo  cow  and  salted 
it  down. 

T  started  in  company  with  President  Young.  Fairbanks  and 
others  ahead  to  hunt  a  camping  ground  where  we  could  have 
better  feed.  We  returned  a  little  after  2  o'clock  p.  m.  and  ate 
dinner.  At  3:15  we  started.  T»nd  traveled  two  miles  over  a  prairie 
dog  town.  A  little  after  4  o'clock  we  encamped  near  a  long 
lake  of  clear  water.  President  Young  and  Kimball  with  some 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 33_ 

others  went  ahead  three  or  four  miles  to  view  the  country.     All 
hands  were  employed  putting  up  racks  to  dry  the  buffalo  meat. 

Monday,  May  3d. — This  morning-  was  cold,  and  there  was 
ice  in  the  water  buckets.  The  hunters  are  going  out  this  morn- 
ing on  font.  Brothers  Tanner  and  Davenport  put  their  forges 
up  to  repair  some  of  the  wagons.  We  had  some  of  the  tires  set 
on  Brother  rushing '<  wagon.  There  was  a  small  party  sent  on 
horseback  to  hunt  the  route.  At  2:30  p.  m.  the  horsemen  re- 
turned and  reported  that  Brother  Empey  had  discovered  a 'large 
war  party  of  Indians  in  a  hollow  twelve  miles  from  the"  camp. 
There  were  orders  given  for  a  company  of  horsemen  to  start,  to 
call  the  hunters  back  to  the  camp.  About  i>  o'clock  the  last  of 
them  got  in  safe,  bringing  two  antelope  and  two  calves.  The 
cannon  was  taken  out  in  front  of  the  wagons  and  prepared  for 
action.  There  was  a  round  fired  about  9  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  May  4th. — This  morning  was  fine  but  cool,  wind 
being  about  southwest.  About  7:30  a.  m.  the  camp  was  called 
together  and  instruction  was  given  by  President  Young  in  regard 
to  leaving  the  wagons,  and  scattering  off  hunting,  without  coun- 
cil. A  company  of  ten  men  was  added  to  the  guard.  About  9 
o'clock  the  wagons  commenced  to  cross  the  lake,  near  the  river. 
The  wagons  were  placed  four  abreast  with  the  cannon  in  the 
rear,  and  traveled  so  for  about  half  a  day,  in  order  to  be  pre- 
pared if  attacked  by  the  Indians.  Soon  after  we  started  we 
discovered  three  wagons  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  They 
were  traders  going-  to  Council  Bluffs.  There  were  nine  men  in 
the  company  and  were  from  Fort  Laramie.  One  of  the  men  came 
across  to  see  us.  He  agreed  to  carry  letters  for  us  to  the  settle- 
ments. Brother  Brown  and  two  others  went  across  the  river  to 
carry  the  letters  to  his  wagon.  The  river  is  about  two,,  miles 
wide  at  this  place  but  is  good  fording.  I  finished  writing  the 
letter  I  commenced  some  time  since,  before  they  Avent,  and  sent 
it  to  my  wife.  We  eave  the  man  some  bread  and  bacon  to  last 
him  to  the  settlements.  He  said  he  had  not  eaten  any  bread  for 
a  long  time. 

About  1:20  p.  m.  we  again  started  and  at  3:30  we  stopped 
to  feed,  having  traveled  six  miles.  While  our  cattle  were  feed- 
ing the  company  was  called  out  to  drill.  We  again  started  and 
traveled  about  three  miles  and  encamped  near  a  creek  of  good 
water.  The  prairie  burned^  nearly  all  over.  Some 'few  spots 
were  left  that  the  fire  had  not  touched.  The  wind  was  south  and 
very  dusty. 

Wednesday.  May  5th. — This  morning  was  fine  and  very 
pleasant.  At  7:30  a.  m.  Ave  started  and  traveled  over  a  low,  soft 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


prairie,  and  at  11:30  we  stopped  to  feed.  We  had  come  about 
nine  miles  in  a  west  course,  a  very  strong  wind  from  the  south 
blowing.  At  1  p.  m.  we  continued  our  journey.  Between  3  and 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 35 

4  o'clock  President  Young  and  Kimball,  who  had  been  ahead, 
returned  and  ordered  the  teams  to  go  back  about  half  a  mile 
to  a  small  island  and  encamp  for  the  night,  in  consequence  of 
the  prairie  being  on  fire  ahead.  This  day  there  was  one  cow 
and  six  buffalo  calves  killed. 

Thursday,  May  6th. — This  morning  it  was  thought  best  to 
start  before  breakfast  and  go  to  where  we  could  find  better 
feed,  and  at  6 :30  we  started.  Last  night  the  Lord  sent  a  light 
shower,  which  put  the  fire  out  and  made  it  perfectly  safe  to 
travel.  We  came  about  two  miles  and  stopped  to  feed.  At 
8:45  we  again  started,  President  Young  and  Kimball  still  going 
ahead  on  horseback.  We  traveled  about  six  miles  and  found  a 
little  more  grass.  The  feed  is  very  scarce,  as  the  numerous 
herds  of  buffalo  eat  it  close  to  the  ground. 

There  were  orders  given  that  no  more  game  should  be 
killed,  as  there  was  sufficient  meat  in  the  camp.  AVhile  we 
were  stopping  for  noon  some  of  our  cows  took  after  the  buffalo. 
President  Young  and  Kimball  rode  after  them  and  drove  them 
back.  At  1 :30  p.  m.  we  started  on  and  traveled  about  two  miles 
and  found  a  lake  of  pure  water.  President  Young  returned  to 
look  for  his  spyglass  he  had  lost.  We  encamped  at  6:30  near 
an  island  in  the  river,  having  come  about  fifteen  miles. 

Friday,  May  7th. — This  morning  the  wind  was  northwest 
and  very  cold.  The  camp  was  called-  together  and  measures 
taken  to  raise  some  horses  to  haul  the  cannon,  as  some  of 
the  horses  and  cattle  had  given  out.  President  Young  scolded 
E.  Snow  for  not  taking  better  care  of  the  cows  yesterday.  0. 
P.  Kockwell  went  back  this  moining  to  hunt  President  Young's 
spyglass.  About  10  o'clock  the  camp  started.  We  traveled 
about  eight  miles  and  encamped  about  2.30  near  several  islands 
in  the  river.  About  4  p.  m.  Porter  returned.  He  found  the  sp3'~ 
glass.  At  6 :30  the  company  was  called  out  to  drill. 

Saturday,  May  8th. — The  morning  was  cold  but  fine,  and 
we  started  at  0  o  'clock.  We  came  seven  and  a  half  miles  and 
stopped  at  1  p.  m.  to  feed.  The  prairie  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  is  literally  covered  witli  buffalo.  This  evening  we  en- 
camped near  the  river.  We  took  some  of  our  horses  on  a  small 
island  in  the  river.  Feed  is  very  scarce  and  very  little  wood. 
We  have  to  use  buffalo  chips  to  cook  with.  The  bluffs  ahead 
appear  to  run  down  to  the  river. 

Sunday,  May  9th. — This  morning  is  very  cold  and  the  wind 
southeast.  At  7:50  we  proceeded  on  and  traveled  three  and  a 
half  miles,  going  a  little  around  some  of  the  bluffs,  and  turned 
down  again  towards  the  river  on  a  low  sandy  bottom.  We  en- 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


camped  near  some  islands  and  have  plenty  of  wood,  but  poor 
feed.  We  took  our  horses  on  the  island  and  cut  down  cotton- 
wood  for  them.  I  went  to  the  south  end  of  the  island  and 
washed  myself  and  changed  my  clothes.  At  3  p.  m.  the  bugle 
sounded  for  the  brethren  to  come  together  for  meeting.  Prayer 
was  offered  by  Brother  Lyman.  Brothers  Woodruff,  Pratt, 
Benson  and  Stevens  spoke,  and  they  gave  us  some  very  good 
instructions.  Soon  after  meeting  President  Young,  Kimball  and 
some  others  went  a  few  miles  west  to  view  the  country. 

The  evening  was  cold,  with  strong  wind  from  the  north- 
west. President  Young  ate  supper  with  H.  C.  Kimball.  Ellen 
tried  to  bake  some  bread,  but  could  not,  the  wind  blew  so.  I 
have  to  sleep  on  a  chest  in  the  front  part  of  the  wagon,  cross- 
ways,  and  cannot  stretch  myself  nor  keep  the  clothes  over  me. 
It  was  so  cold  tonight,  and  the  wind  blowing  in  the  wasron.  so 
I  went  to  bed  with  Brothers  King  and  dishing. 

Monday,  May  10th. — This  morning  was  cool  and  calm.  I 
got  up  this  morning  at  4  a.  m.  I  had  the  best  night 's  rest  I 
have  had  for  some  time.  I  made  a  fire  and  put  the  bread  down 
to  bake,  then  Avent  to  Brother  Johnson's  wagon  to  write  up  my 
journal,  as  I  have  not  much  time  to  do  it  during  the  day  or 
evening.  I  have  to  catch  most  of  the  time  after  taking  care 
of  my  horses.  When  the  Aveather  gets  Avarmer,  I  hope  I  shall 
be  able  to  Avrite  some  early  in  the  mornings.  I  have  so  little 
time,  it  accounts  for  my  not  Avriting  much.  Brother  rlavton 
has  kindly  let  me  have  his  journal  to  take  minutes  t.'rom  until 
I  can  get  time  to  keep  it  up  every  day.  Avhidi  I  am  verv  thank- 
ful for. 

Dr.  Richards  has  deposited  a  letter  in  a  board  prepared 
for  that  purpose,  nailed  to  a  long  pole,  Avith  the  distance  marked 
on  it  of  316  miles  from  Winter  Quarters.  He  Avas  assisted  by 
President  Young  and  others.  At  0:05  a.  m.  the  camp  proceeded 
onward.  After  traveling  about  tAvo  miles  Ave  crossed  a  small 
creek,  which  Brother  Kimball  named  Skunk  creek.  About  this 
time  Ave  discovered  a  stray  horse  coming  toAvard  us.  The  breth- 
ren tried  to  catch  it,  but  he  Avas  so  Avild  they  could  not  get  near 
him.  We  traA'eled  until  11:55  and  found  a  little  better  feed, 
then  stopped  for  dinner,  having  come  about  six  miles.  The 
prairie  is  IOAV  and  soft,  Avhich  makes  very  heavy  traveling. 
Some  of  the  brethren  shot  a  buffalo  today.  At  '2  p.  m.  we  con- 
tinued our  journey,  and  after  traveling  a  half  mile  we  CTXMGA  : 
a  A'ory  bad  slough.  About  4  p.  m.  President  Young's  team  gave 
out.  and  many  others  also.  H.  C.  Kimball  rode  up  to  us  and 
told  Brother  H.  dishing  to  take  off  two  of  his  mules  and  go 
back  to  help  President  Young  up.  At  4:50  Ave  encamped  near 


p  r  ( )  x  !•:  K  R  i  y  G    T  H  E    w  E  s  T 3/_ 

an  island  where  \ve  had  plenty  of  cottonwood  for  our  horses. 
The  feed  is  a  little  better  this  evening1,  for  which  we  thank 
the  Lord.  This  day  Ave  traveled  about  ten  miles.  Some  of  the 
hunters  killed  a  deer.  The  evening  is  warm  and  pleasant,  and 
the  wind  light  from  the  northwest. 

Tuesday,  May  llth. — The  morning  is  cold  with  east  wind. 
It  appears  to  me  that  vast  herds  of  buffalo  have  wintered 
around  this  place,  but  have  mostly  left  and  gone  eastward  some 
time  ago,  as  we  have  the  full  growth  of  this  year's  grass,  which 
is  very  short.  This  morning  we  overhauled  our  wagon,  and 
took  part  of  our  load  and  placed  it  in  Brother  dishing 's  wagon. 
At  9:30  a.  m.  we  again  started.  President  Young  and  Kimball 
going  a  half  hour  ahead  of  us.  Our  Ten  took  the  lead  today, 
which  brought  my  wagon  first.  We  traveled  five  miles  and 
stopped  at  12  :20  for  a  half  hour  to  Avater  and  take  some  dinner. 
We  traveled  on  three  miles  further  and  crossed  over  a  creek 
of  clear  water.  We  traveled  on  a  half  mile  and  stopped,  the 
feed  being  pretty  good,  making  eight  and  one-half  miles  today. 
The  water  being  a  half  mile  off,  the  brethren  dug  tAvo  Avells 
about  four  feet  deep  and  found  plenty  of  good  \vater.  This 
evening  I  felt  quite  sick,  having  a  very  bad  cold. 

Wednesday,  May  12th. — The  morning  Avas  very  cool,  and 
Ave  started  at  9:10  a.  m.  and  traveled  eight  miles,  and  stopped 
at  1:12  p.  m.  to  feed.  The  roads  are  pretty  good  and  the  feed 
is  a  little  better.  There  is  a  strong  wind  bloAving  from  the 
southeast.  H.  C.  Kimball  informed  me  today  that  we  had 
passed  the  junction  of  the  forks  of  the  river  two  days  ago.  The 
hunters  report  that  they  have  seen  many  dead  buffalo  betAveen 
here  and  the  bluffs  with  the  hides  off  and  the  tongues  taken 
out.  which  piwes  that  Indians  have  been  here  recently,  as  the 
flesh  looks  fresh  as  if  lately  killed.  The  range  of  bluffs  on  each 
side  of  the  river  extends  much  farther  apart,  and  near  the  foot 
of  the  soxith  range  can  be  seen  scattering-  timber,  which  is  an 
evidence  that  the  south  fork  runs  along  there  in  the  distance. 
At  3 :30  Ave  again  started  and  traveled  four  miles,  and  encamped 
again  at  o:4.~>  near  a  group  of  small  islands.  This  evening-  is 
cloudy  and  it  looks  like  rain.  Brother  Clayton  thinks  Ave  are 
about  fourteen  miles  aboA*e  the  junction  of  the  north  and  south 
forks  of  the  Platte  river.  Some  of  the  hunters  killed  a  buffalo 
.this  evening  and  the  remnants  were  sent  out  after. 

Thursday,  May  13th. — This  morning  is  very  cold  and  cloudy 
with  wind  northwest.  I  Avent  out  early  to  take  care  of  my 
liorses,  and  Avent  in  sight  of  an  Indian  camp  ground.  There 
appeared  to  be  two  or  three  hundred  wickiups  and,  from  the 


:\S PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

appearance  of  things,  I  supposed  that  they  had  not  been  gone 
long  from  there.  At  9  a.  m.  we  started  and  traveled  four  miles, 
nearly  a  west  course,  and  stopped  at  11  a.  m.  to  feed  our  teams. 
The  grass  continues  to  get  better.  The  buffalo  are  not  so  plenty 
here,  which  accounts  for  the  feed  getting  better.  The  wind  is 
blowing  very  strong  from  the  north  and  northeast.  At  12 :30 
we  again  moved  onward  and  traveled  ten  and  a  quarter  miles 
and  stopped  on  the  west  side  of  a  large  stream  about  six  rods 
wide,  which  runs  from  the  northeast  and  empties  into  the  North 
fork  of  the  Platte  river.  The  bottom  is  quicksand  and  difficult 
to  cross  unless  it  is  crossed  over  quick.  It  is  about  two  feet 
deep. 

We  are  encamped  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  Platte, 
and  the  feed  is  better  here  than  any  we  have  had  since  we  left 
Winter  Quarters.  I  feel  much  better  today,  and  I  thank  the 
Lord  for  it.  This  stream  is  not  laid  down  on  the  map.  Presi- 
dent Young  and  Kimball  traveled  ahead  as  usual,  and  they  re- 
ported that  the  bluffs  run  down  to  the  river,  but  they  discov- 
ered that  we  could  go  around  the  bluffs  by  going  a  mile  around. 
*We  are  about  twenty-five  and  a  quarter  miles  above  the  junc- 
tion of  the  North  and  South  forks,  and  361  miles  from  Winter 
Quarters,  according  to  AVm.  Clayton's  account. 

Friday,  May  14th. — The  morning  is  cloudy  and  very  cold, 
arid  streaks  of  lightning  can  be  seen  occasionally  in  the  west. 
About  8  o'clock  it  commenced  to  rain  very  heavy,  accompanied 
with  thunder  and  lightning.  Just  before  it  commenced  raining 
the  bugle  sounded  to  gather  up  our  horses.  After  the  storm 
ceased  we  started  onward  at  10 :15,  and  after  traveling  a  mile 
we  passed  between  the  high  bluffs,  our  course  being  north  for 
some  time.  After  traveling  about  six  and  a  quarter  miles  we 
stopped  to  feed  at  1 :40  p.  m.  within  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
the  river.  We  are  on  the  large  low  bottoms  again,  and  not  more 
than  three  miles  from  where  we  started  this  morning.  Presi- 
dent Young  and  Kimball  went  ahead  to  look  out  the  route. 

Brother  Higby  killed  an  antelope  and  a  badger.  We  had  a 
shower  just  before  we  stopped,  and  now  the  weather  is  some 
warmer.  At  3  p.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  We  went 
two  and  a  half  miles  and  stopped  at  4:30.  President  Young- 
and  Kimball  returned  and  thought  it  was  best  to  encamp,  as 
there  were  high  ranges  of  bluffs  west  of  us  that  extended  down 
to  the  river.  We  made  about  eight  and  three-quarters  miles 
today.  The  revenue  cutter  has  been  dispatched  after  two  buf- 
faloes and  two  antelope  that  have  been  killed  by  the  hunters. 
There  was  an  alarm  given  by  the  guard  last  night  a  little  before 
12  o'clock,  and  one  of  them  fired  at  an  object  he  thought  to  be 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 39 

an  Indian,  and  those  who  had  horses  outside  of  the  circle  were 
called  up  to  bring  them  in.  It  is  my  opinion  that  the  guard 
was  mistaken,  as  we  could  not  see  any  sign  of  Indians,  neither 
could  we  see  any  tracks  in  the  sand  the  next  morning. 

Brother  Wm.  Clayton  has  invented  a  machine,  and  at- 
tached it  to  the  wagon  that  Brother  Johnson  drives,  to  tell  the 
distance  we  travel.  It  is  simple  yet  is  ingenious.  He  got 
Brother  Appleton  Harmon  to  do  the  work.  I  have  understood 
that  Brother  Harmon  claims  to  be  the  inventor,  too,  which  I 
know  to  be  a  positive  falsehood.  He,  Brother  Harmon,  knew 
nothing  about  the  first  principles  of  it,  neither  did  he  know 
how  to  do  the  work  only  as  Brother  Clayton  told  him  from  time 
to  time.  It  shows  the  weakness  of  human  nature.  I  will  give 
a  description  of  it  hereafter.  The  camp  are  all  well. 

Saturday,  May  15th. — This  morning  is  cloudy  and  very  cold 
and  feels  like  a  morning  in  January,  the  wind  blowing  strong 
from  the  north.  The  brethren  who  killed  the  buffalo  did  not 
bring  it  to  the  camp  last  night.  They  put  it  in  the  boat  and  left 
it  until  morning.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  they  found  their 
way  to  camp,  as  it  was  so  dark.  They  brought  it  in  about  7:30 
this  morning  and  divided  it  to  the  Captains  of  Ten.  At  8  o'clock 
it  commenced  raining,  but  cleared  off  a  little  before  9,  when  we 
started.  After  traveling  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  be- 
gan ascending  the  sandy  bluffs  and  it  commenced  raining  again, 
making  it  very  cold  and  disagreeable.  The  road  was  much  of 
a  zigzag  one  over  the  bluffs.  We  traveled  about  a  mile,  the 
sand  being  very  deep  and  heavy  pulling  for  the  horses,  aad 
when  we  ascended  a  sand  bluff  we  discovered  the  bottoms  just 
below.  We  traveled  on  the  bottoms  a  little  way,  when  it  was 
considered  best  to  turn  out  our  teams  and  not  travel  in  the 
rain.  It  was  10 :30  when  we  stopped. 

My  wagon  being  heavily  loaded,  Brother  Kimball  told  me 
to  take  the  mules  Brother  Johnson  worked  ahead  of  his  cattle 
and  put  them  before  my  horses.  We'  traveled  about  two  and  a 
half  miles.  About  noon  it  cleared  off  again  and  the  signal  was 
given  to  gather  up  our  teams,  and  at  12:30  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey  and  traveled  until  2 :45,  the  distance  being  four  and 
a  half  miles.  About  three  miles  ahead  the  bluffs  appear  to  run 
down  to  the  river.  The  feed  is  good/ but  wood  is  very  scarce 
and  the  buffalo  chips  are  not  a  very  good  substitute  for  wood 
when  they  are  wet.  This  morning  I  baked  some  bread  and  fried 
some  antelope  meat,  made  some  coffee  and  had  a  very  good  "7 
breakfast,  all  cooked  with  wet  buffalo  chips. 

Sunday,  May  16th. — The  morning  was  cold  and  the  wind  was 
still  blowing  from  the  north.  The  buffalo  that  was  killed  yes- 


4o  p  r  <  >  x  E  K  H  i  y  (  ;    T  1  1  K 


terday  evening  was  divided  this  morning'  to  the  Captains  <>!'  Tens. 
This  forenoon  my  time  was  principally  occupied  baking  bread 
and  drying  beef.  President  Young  and  Kimhall  with  several 
others  went  ahead  on  horseback  to  explore  the  country,  and  re- 
turned this  afternoon,  reporting  that  we  pass  over  the  bluffs 
by  going  about  four  miles. 

The  bugle  sounded  this  afternoon  i'or  the  uu-flnvn  to  come 
together  for  meeting.  Brothers  II.  ('.  Kinilmll,  Dr.  Richards, 
Markham  and  Rockwood  spoke.  The  principal  part  of  the  time 
was  occupied  in  exhorting  the  brethren  to  faithfulness,  and  also 
to  obey  the  council  of  those  whom  God  had  placed  in  the  Chim-h 
to  lead  and  direct  the  affairs  of  His  Kingdom.  Brother  Kim- 
ball  spoke  in  his  usual  and  interesting  and  impressive  manner, 
exhorting  the  brethren  to  adhere  to  council  and  to  be  humble 
and  prayerful,  and  the  Lord  would  continue  -to  bless  us.  and 
we  should  be  healthy,  and  not  one  of  us  should  fall  by  the  way. 
He  also  stated  that  he  had  traveled  much,  but  never  witnessed 
so  much  union  as  there  was  in  the  camp.  He  advised  the  breth- 
ren not  to  hunt  on  the  Sabbath  day,  when  there  was  plenty  of 
meat  in  the  camp,  but  said  he  had  no  fault  to  find.  He  believed 
that  everybody  was  trying  to  do  the  best  they  could.  He  said 
that  if  Ave  were  faithful  the  angel  of  the  Lord  would  go  before 
us  and  be  around  about  us  to  ward  off  the  harm  of  the  de- 
stroyer. He  knew  the  Lord  was  with  us.  that  our  teams  were 
gaining  strength  and  the  prayers  of  the  Saints  were  answered. 
He  had  prayed  that  the  Indians  would  turn  to  the  right  and  to 
the  left  that  we  might  pursue  our  journey  in  peace,  and  asked 
the  brethren  if  they  could  get  sight  of  an  Indian  near?  Their 
answer  was,  No.  He  also  cautioned  them  not  to  use  profane 
language,  as  the  angel  of  the  Lord  would  turn  away  from  a  man 
that  would  swear  and  take  the  name  of  the  Lord  in  vain.  The 
Lord  loves  a  faithful  man  as  a  father  loves  a  faithful  son.  The 
Spirit  of  the  Lord  rested  upon  him  and  he  spoke  with  power, 
which  cheered  my  soul. 

A  number  of  buffalo  herds  are  in  sight,  and  some  of  them 
are  making  down  the  bluffs  toward  our  horses.  Brother  Eric 
Glines  went  out  to  stop  them,  but  thev  still  kept  on,  when  he 
fired  three  shots  at  them,  all  the  shots  taking  effect  on  one, 
which  ran  a  little  way  and  then  fell.  Francis  (*Boggs)  came 
with  an  antelope.  The  revenue  cutter  went  out  and  brought  the 
buffalo  in,  and  it  was  divided  among  the  camp.  I  have  the 
pleasure  this  eveninsr  of  writing  by  the  light  of  a  candle  made 
by  Brother  Edson  Whipple  out  of  buffalo  tallow,  and  it  burns 
beautifully.  The  evening  was  calm  and  pleasant,  and  the  rules 
and  regulations  for  the  camp  (of  April  the  18th)  were  read  by 


P  I  <  >  X  E  E  R  T  X 


T  II  E      W  E  S  T 


41 


Brother  Bullock.  President  Young  and  Kimball  took  a  walk 
to  the  bluffs  about  dark,  and  returned  and  went  to  President 
Young's  wagon  and  remained  in  council  until  after  10  p.  in. 


_42 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Monday,  May  17th. — The  morning-  Avas  cold  and  chilly  and 
the  wind  was  northwest.  Dr.  Richards  leCt  another  letter  on  the 
camp  ground  for  the  benefit  of  the  next  company,  putting  it 
up  the  same  as  the  others.  About  8:13,  after  traveling  about  a 
mile  and  a  half,  AVC  arrived  at  the  range  of  bluffs,  which  ex- 
tended to  the  river,  came  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  crossed 
a  stream  of  fresh  spring  water  about  three  feet  wide.  When 
Ave  first  ascended  the  bluffs  our  course  Avas  north  for  a  short 
distance,  but  we  then  turned  westAvard  and  passed  OA'er  a  num- 
ber of  sand  bluffs.  After  traveling  two  and  a  half  miles  be- 
yond the  above  mentioned  stream  Ave  arm-eel  at  the  Avest  side 
of  the  bluffs,  the  last  part  of  the  road  being  ATery  sandy  Avith 
seA'eral  very  steep  pitches  to  go  down.  The  teams  got  over 
without  any  difficulty.  The  grass  is  ATery  good  Avest  of  the 
bluffs,  and  about  a  mile  from  the  bluffs  AVC  passed  three  streams 
of  spring  water.  The  whole  of  the  bottoms  seem  to  be  full  of 
springs.  We  have  to  keep  near  the  bluffs,  the  bottoms  are  so 
soft  and  wet.  About  11 :45  Ave  stopped  to  feed,  having  traveled 
about  six  and  three-quarter  miles;  we  encamped  about  half  a 
mile  west  of  a  stream  of  spring  water,  which  we  crossed. 
Brother  Redding  and  myself  went  back  to  get  some  water.  We 
went  to  the  head  of  the  stream  and  found  five  boiling  springs, 
boiling  up  several  inches.  One  of  Brother  Phineas  Young's 
horses  got  mired  in  a  swamp  where  he  Avent  in  to  feed.  The 
brethren  hauled  him  out  with  ropes. 

This  forenoon  is  Avarm  and  pleasant,  the  first  Avarm  day  we 
haAre  had  for  some  time.  At  2  p.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
ney and  traveled  about  half  a  mile,  Avhen  we  came  to  a  stream 
of  pure  water  about  thirty  feet  wide  and  very  shalloAv,  and  there 
was  no  difficulty  in  crossing  it.  We  passed  OA-er  same  safe, 
some  hills  a  quarter  of  a  mile  further,  and  then  came  to  level 
prairie  again,  which  is  low  and  soft.  We  crossed  a  number  of 
small  streams  which  rise  from  springs  near  the  bluffs.  About 
3  o'clock  word  came  that  there  Avas  a  buffalo  killed  by  the  hunt- 
ers about  a  mile  from  the  camp  and  tAVo  men  were  sent  out  to 
dress  it.  About  the  same  time  the  revenue  cutter  arrived  with 
two  buffaloes  and  an  antelope.  The  meat  Avas  taken  out  of  the 
boat,  and  a  fresh  team  put  on  and  sent  after  the  other  buffalo. 
At  4:30  the  Avagons  moved  omvard  and  traveled  until  6  o'clock, 
when  Ave  encamped  on  the  wide  bottom  plain.  We  have  traveled 
today  about  twelve  and  three-quarters  miles  in  about  a  west 
course.  We  are  about  a  half  mile  from  the  river.  Brother  Har- 
ris and  myself  Avent  doAvn  to  the  river  and  brought  up  a  keg  of 
water.  The  brethren  dug1  several  wells.  Soon  after  AVC  arrived 
the  boat  came  in  Avith  the  other  buffalo.  The  meat  Avas  divided 


PIONEERING     T  H  K    WEST 43 

equally  among-  the  companies.    We  are  in  latitude  41  degrees  12 
minutes  50  seconds. 

Tuesday,  May  18th. — The  mi  truing;  was  fine  and  pleasant 
.and  at  7  o  'clock  President  Young  called  the  Captains  of  Tens  to- 
gether and  gave  them  instructions  not  to  let  their  men  kill  any 
more  game,  as  we  had  more  on  hand  now  than  we  could  take 
•care  of,  and  for  them  not  to  take  life  merely  to  gratify  their 
propensities.  He  also  stated  that  life  was  as  dear  to  the  animal, 
according  to  their  understanding,  as  it  was  to  us.  That  if  the 
horsemen  hunters  would  go  ahead  and  hunt  out  the  road  they 
would  be  of  more  utility  to  the  camp  than  pursuing  every  band 
of  antelope  that  passed  the  camp;  that  there  were  men  among 
us  in  responsible  positions  who  cared  no  more  for  the  interest 
of  the  camp  than  the  horses  that  they  rode;  that  the  spirit  of 
the  hunter  as  was  now  manifested  would  lead  them  to  kill  all 
the  game  within  a  thousand  miles  as  inconsistently  as  the  butch- 
er would  apply  the  knife  to  the  throat  of  a  bullock.  President 
Young,  after  some  other  remarks,  dismissed  the  captains,  tell- 
ing them  that  they  must  lead  their  men  by  their  own  good 
example,  for  the  men  would  do  well  if  the  captains  would  set 
them  the  proper  pattern. 

Soon  after  meeting  was  dismissed  the  bugle  sounded  to 
collect  our  teams.  At  8:15  a.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  .journey, 
Brigham,  Heber  and  some  others  going  on  ahead  on  horseback- 
After  traveling  three  and  three-quarters  miles  a  west  course 
Tve  arrived  at  a  stream  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  wide  and 
about  eighteen  inches  deep,  with  a  very  strong  current.  We 
gave  it  the  name  of  Rat  Bank  creek.  From  this  stream  we  trav- 
eled near  the  bank  of  the  river,  about  a  northwest  course.  At 
11:10  a.  m.  we  stopped  to  feed,  having  traveled  about  six  and  a 
half  miles.  This  afternoon  has  been  very  hot.  We  saw  several 
-spots  of  small  cedar  trees  growing  in  the  sandy  crevices  of  the 
rocks  opposite  here,  the  head  of  Cedar  bluffs,  as  named  by 
Fremont,  is  three  miles  west  of  where  we  were  encamped  last 
night.  We  continued  our  journey,  our  route  lying  near  the 
"banks  of  the  river.  This  forenoon  we  crossed  a  number  of 
small  streams.  We  had  a  little  rain  this  afternoon,  accom- 
panied with  lightning  and  distant  thunder.  This  afternoon 
we  traveled  nine  and  a  half  miles,  and  during  the  day  fifteen 
and  three-quarters  miles.  The  feed  is  not  very  good  here. 

This  evening  Colonel  Markham  called  the  camp  together1 
io  remind  them  of  their  duty  in  regard  to  traveling  and  get- 
ting up  their  teams.  After  some  other  instructions  the  meet* 
ing  was  dismissed.  The  wind  changed  to  the  north  and  blew 
Tip  cold  and  cloudy. 


_44 1' 1  OX  KHR  ING      THE      WKST 

Wednesday,  May  19th. — This  morning  was  cloudy  and-  it 
rained  considerable  last  night.  About  10  o'clock  1  got  up  to 
put  the  harness  under  the  wagons.  H.  C.  Kimball's  saddle  and 
other  things  which  would  get  damaged  by  rain,  when  I  discov- 
ered Brother  Jackson  Redding,  who  was  captain  of  the  guard, 
going  around  with  some  of  his  men  picking  up  the  harness 
and  other  things  and  putting  them  under  cover.  Captain 
Redding  is  a  faithful,  praiseworthy  man,  and  a  man  who  works 
for  the  good  of  the  camp. 

As  the  feed  is  not  good  here  it  was  thought  best  to  move 
on  a  few  miles  before  breakfast  and  find  better  feed.  \Ve 
started  out  about  5:05  and  crossed  two  small  streams,  travel- 
ing three  and  three-quarters  miles  and  stopped  to  eat  break- 
fast. Some  of  the  teams  are  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ahead  of  the 
main  body  of  the  camp.  H.  C.  Kimball  and  Brother  Woolsey 
went  ahead  to  hunt  a  place  where  the  feed  was  good.  As  they 
neared  the  bluffs  they  discovered  that  the  feed  was  not  so 
good,  and  Brother  Kimball  sent  Brother  Woolsey  back  to  tell 
the  brethren  to  stop,  while  he  went  on  to  look  out  the  road 
through  the  bluffs.  He  returned  just  .before  we  started.  After 
traveling  about  ten  miles  alone,  he  saw  a  number  of  wolves, 
some  of  them  being  very  large.  He  tried  to  scare  them,  but 
they  would  not  move  out  of  their  tracks,  and  he  had  no  fire- 
arms with  him.  If  he  had  been  afoot  I  presume  they  would 
have  attacked  him.  Brother  Kimball  has  rode  so  much  ahead 
to  look  out  the  way  for  the  carnp  he  has  almost  broke  himself 
doAvn  and  is  pretty  near  sick,  but  his  ambition  and  the  care 
he  has  for  the  camp  keeps  him  up. 

At  8:40  we  again  started,  came  about  three  miles  and  began 
to  ascend  the  bluffs,  which  are  very  steep  and  sandy.  Just 
before  we  came  to  the  bluffs  Ave  crossed  a  stream  about  twenty 
feet  wide.  We  traveled  a  winding  course  of  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  through  the  bluffs,  came  200  yards  from  the 
west  side  and  crossed  another  small  stream.  It  has  rained 
heavy  all  the  time  since  we  started  after  breakfast.  About 
10:30  the  camp  halted,  having  traveled  six  miles.  About  2:30 
the  weather  looked  a  little  more  favorable,  and  we  started  at 
2:55.  Soon  after  we  started  it  commenced  raining  again  very 
heavy.  We  traveled  t\v<>  miles  and  encamped  i'or  the  nijrht 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  having  come  eight  miles  today.  The 
small  stream  that  we  crossed  west  of  the  bluffs  we  named  Wolf 
creek.  The  evening  was  cold  and  cloudy,  but  it  cleared  off 
about  6  o'clock. 

Thursday,  May  20th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  Avith  light 
winds  from  the  northwest  and  cold.  We  starte  1  about  7 -A"), 


PIONEERING      T  HE      WEST 45 

and  soon  after  passed  Brother  Clayton's  Avagon.  He  and 
Brother  Harmon  were  repairing  the  roadorneter,  which  had 
suffered  by  the  rain  and  broke  one  of  the  teeth  out  of  the 
small  wheel.  Three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  where  we  started 
•we  crossed  a  stream  eight  feet  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet 
deep.  About  11:15  we  halted  to  feed,  having  traveled  seven 
and  three-quarters  miles,  the  latter  part  of  the  road  being  very 
good.  The  bluffs  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  project  near 
to  its  banks.  They  appear  rocky,  and  several  beautiful  groves 
of  cedar  are  growing  on  them.  Brothers  0.  Pratt,  L.  Johnson, 
A.  Lyrnan  and  J.  Brown  went  across  the  river  in  the  boat  and 
discovered  we  were  opposite  Ash  Hollow,  where  the  Oregon 
road  crosses  to  the  Xorth  fork  of  the  Platte.  Brother  Brown 
found  the  grave  where  he  helped  to  bury  an  emigrant  last  sum- 
mer when  lie  was  going  west.  The  boat  returned  and  we  again 
moved  omvard.  Some  of  the  brethren  killed  a  large  rattle- 
snake. This  afternoon  about  three  and  a  half  miles  from  where 
AVC  stopped  for  noon  \ve  crossed  a  stream  six  or  eight  rods  wide 
and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  the  bottom  being  quicksand  and 
the  current  SAvift.  At  5:30  we  encamped,  having  come  eight 
miles,  which  makes  fifteen  and  three-quarters  miles  during  the 
day.  The  road  has  been  very  good  this  afternoon,  and  the  feed 
is  pretty  good.  We  had  a  light  shoAver  this  afternoon,  but  the 
evening  is  pleasant. 

Friday,  May  21st. — The  morning  AA*as  very  calm  and  pleas- 
ant, but  tolerably  cool.  At  7:3-5  Ave  proceeded  on  our  journey. 
Brother  "Clayton  put  up  a  guide  board  this  morning  with  the 
following  inscription  on  it :  "From  Winter  Quarters,  409  miles; 
from  the  junction  of  the  Xorth  and  South  forks  of  the  Platte, 
93*4  miles;  Cedar  Bluffs  on  east  side  of  the  river,  and  Ash 
HolloAv  S  miles;  Camp  of  Pioneers.  May  21st.  1847.  Accord- 
ing to  Fremont,  this  place  is  132  miles  from  Laramie.  N.  B. — 
The  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  are  named  Castle  Bluffs." 

We  found  the  prairie  very  Avet  and  many  ponds  of  water 
standing.  Avhich  must  have  been  caused  by  the  heaA-y  falls  of 
rain.  At  11:15  Ave  stopped  for  dinner,  having  traveled  seven 
and  three-quarters  miles  in  a  north-northwest  course,  it  being* 
Avarm  and  calm. 

President  Yoimsr  and  Kimball  rode  ahead  to  pick  out  the 
road.  Xear  this  place  they  saAV  a  nest  of  Avolves.  They  killed 
tAvo  of  them  and  three  others  escaped  to  their  holes.  Brother 
Kimball  caught  one  of  them  by  the  tail  and  killed  him.  At 
1 :30  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  and  found  the  prairie  very 
wet  and  high  grass  of  last  year's  groAvth.  Brother  Clayton  saw 
a  very  large  rattlesnake.  At  5  o'clock  Brother  Kimball  stopped 


46 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

the  forward  teams  to  let  the  rear  teams  get  up,  saying  that  he 
saw  Indians  come  down  from  the  bluffs.  When  the  last  wagons 
got  up  we  traveled  on  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  encamped  in  a 
circle,  the  wagons  close  together.  We  have  come  seven  and 
three-quarters  miles  this  afternoon,  which  makes  fifteen  and  a 
half  miles  during  the  day. 

While  we  were  forming  our  camp  an  Indian  and  his  squaw 
came  near  the  camp.  They  were  Sioux.  They  made  signs  that 
there  was  a  party  of  them  on  the  bluff  north  of  us,  not  far 
distant.  President  Young  ordered  them  not  to  bring  them  into 
the  camp.  The  Indian  was  well  dressed.  Their  horses  appear 
to  be  work  horses,  which  I  presume  they  had  stolen  from  some 
travelers.  The  day  has  been  quite  warm  and  some  of  our  teams 
lagged  a  little.  Brother  Gushing  drove  my  team  this  afternoon, 
while  I  rode  in  Brother  King's  wagon  and  drove  some  for  him. 
The  feed  is  not  so  good  here,  there  being  considerable  old  grass. 
This  evening  is  very  pleasant.  The  latitude  at  noon  was  41 
degrees  24  minutes  5  seconds. 

Saturday,  May  22d. — This  morning  is  calm  and  pleasant; 
all  is  peace  and  quietness  in  camp.  At  8  o'clock  we  started  on 
our  journey,  and  having  to  bend  to  the  banks  of  the  river  made 
our  road  much  more  crooked  than  usual.  The  prairie  was  soft 
and  uneven.  We  traveled  about  five  and  a  half  miles  and 
crossed  a  very  slow  stream  about  twenty  feet  wide.  The  bluffs 
are  about  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  on  the  south  side  about 
two  miles.  At  11 :30  we  stopped  to  feed,  having  come  about  seven 
and  a  quarter  miles,  the  latter  part  of  the  road  being  much 
better.  Our  course  was  west-northwest,  and  a  light  breeze  from 
the  east  was  blowing.  Brother  Kimball  and  others  go  ahead  as 
usual  to  look  out  the  road.  The  stream  last  crossed  was  named 
Crab  creek,  as  some  of  the  brethren  had  seen  a  very  large  crab 
in  it. 

While  we  were  stopped  Brother  Clayton  went  up  on  the 
bluffs,  which  were  very  high  and  romantic  in  their  appearance. 
He  said  he  could  see  Chimney  Rock  with  the  naked  eye  very 
plain.  He  judged  it  to  be  about  twenty  miles  distant.  We 
started  again  at  1:30  p.  m.  and  crossed  a  number  of  dry  creeks 
today  from  one  rod  wide  to  six,  all  appearing  to  have  been  very 
rapid  streams  some  seasons  of  the  year.  We  found  the  prairie 
so  much  broken  between  the  bluffs  and  the  river  that  it  was 
impassable  with  wagons.  We  traveled  a  winding  course  be- 
tween the  bluffs  of  about  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  again 
emerged  on  the  bottoms.  Between  4  and  5  o'clock  this  after- 
noon the  clouds  gathered  very  black  from  the  west,  streaks  of 
lightning  can  be  seen  and  the  distant  rumbling  of  thunder  can 

*  Reading  matter  on  page  48  belongs  on  page  47 


1  '  1  (  )  X  K  ERIN  G     T  H  E     W  E  S  T 


northwest,  thick  black  clouds  gathered  all  around  us,  and  about 
7  o'clock  rain  began  to  pour  down,  accompanied  with  thunder 
and  lightning  and  hail  for  a  short  time.  We  feared  for  some 
time  that  our  wagon  tops  should  blow  off.  The  rain  ceased 
about  10  p.  m.  and  the  wind  continued  to  blow  nearly  all  night. 
We  found  all  things  safe  in  the  morning,  not  sustaining  any 
damage  whatever. 

Monday,  May  24th.  —  The  morning  was  very  cold,  the  wind 
continuing  northwest.  At  8:3o  a.  m.  we  started  and  traveled 
over  a  level  prairie  somewhat  sandy.  At  10  :45  we  stopped  to 
feed,  having  come  ten  miles.  About  noon  the  weather  moder- 
ated a  little.  Two  Indians  came  across  the  bluffs  to  pur  camp 
on  foot.  They  made  signs  that  we  should  give  them  something 
to  eat  and  they  would  go  away.  Some  of  the  brethren  gave 
them  some  bread.  They  started  up  the  river  a  little  way  and 
crossed  over.  At  3  p.  m.  we  proceeded  en  our  journey  and 
traveled  until  6  o'clock,  six  and  a  half  miles.  This  afternoon 
several  of  the  horse  teams  gave  out.  Just  before  we  stopped, 
a  party  of  Indians  was  discovered  on.  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  After  we  camped,  which  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  river,  we  discovered  the  Indians  had  a  flag  flying,  which 
is  their  mode  of  finding  out  whether  they  would  be  admitted 
in  the  camp  or  not.  President  Young  sent  a  man  up  the  river 
with  a  white  flag,  when  they  all  crossed  the  river  on  their 
ponies,  some  of  them  singing.  Thev  were  thirty-five  in  num- 
ber. Some  of  them  were  women.  They  were  all  well  dressed 
and  behaved  themselves  better  than  any  Indians  I  have  ever 
seen  before.  Four  of  their  chiefs  came  down  to  the  camp. 
Colonels  Markham  and  Sherwood  showed  them  around  the  camp. 
They  took  some  provisions  to  those  who  were  encamped  up 
the  river,  and  gave  the  chiefs  their  supper  at  the  camp.  The 
brethren  put  up  a  tent  for  the  head  chief  and  his  squaw  to 
sleep  in.  The  evening  was  pleasant,  and  AVC  left  our  horses  out 
until  11  o'clock  to  feed,  with  a  guard  to  watch  them.  H.  C. 
Kimball's  health  is  very  poor  and  he  is  unable  to  1'ide  aheadr 
but  is  confined  to  his  wagon  most  of  the  time. 

Tuesday,  May  25th.  —  The  morning  was  fine  and  pleasant. 
All  the  Indians,  both  men  and  women,  came  into  camp  this 
morning.  Some  of  the  brethren  traded  horses  with  them  and 
bought  moccasins  from  them.  At  8:20  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  Soon  after  we  started  the  Indians  left  us.  Thev  ap- 
peared to  be  well  satisfied.  They  crossed  the  river  and  went 
in  the  direction  thev  came  from.  After  traveling  one  mile  we 
ascended  a  sandy  ridere,  traveled  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
over  very  deep  sand  and  came  on  the  bottoms  again.  We  came 


J8 P  I  O  X  E  E  R  I  N  G      T  H  E      W  E  S  T 

be  heard.  It  lias  the  appearance  of  a  tremendous  storm.  About 
5  p.  m.  the  wind  blew  up  strong  from  the  northwest  and  the 
storm  passed  to  the  northeast  of  us.  At  5 :45  we  encamped  in 
a  circle  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  river,  having  come 
eight  and  a  quarter  miles  this  afternoon,  which  makes  fifteen 
and  a  half  during1  the  day.  I  saw  a  very  large  rattlesnake  this 
afternoon. 

Wood  is  very  scarce.  We  find  a  few  sticks  along  the  bank 
of  the  river,  which  has  been  drifted  there  by  high  water.  We 
have  not  seen  any  buffalo  for  a  number  of  days,  and  very  little 
game  of  any  kind.  Some  of  the  brethren  brought  a  young  eagle 
into  camp,  which  they  took  out  of  its  nest  on  the  top  of  one  of 
the  high  bluffs.  It  measured  forty-six  inches  from  tip  to  tip 
of  its  wings  when  stretched  out.  The  bluffs  and  peaks  have  a 
very  remarkable  appearance,  the  tops  being  like  the  ruins  of 
some  ancient  city  with  its  castle's,  towers  and  fortifications.  I 
had  no  time  to  examine  them.  Brother  Clayton  has  given  a 
full  description  of  them,  which  is  very  interesting.  This  even- 
ing is  very  pleasant  and  all  is  peace  and  harmony.  The  feed  is 
not  very  good.  The  inside  of  our  circle  is  a  solid  bed  of  sand, 
and  there  were  four  rattlesnakes  killed  in  the  camp. 

Sunday,  May  23d. — This  morning  is  very  fine  and  pleasant. 
I  Avent  down  to  the  river  before  sunrise  and  made  a  fire  and 
washed  some  clothes.  President  Young,  Kimball  and  others 
walked  up  to  the  bluffs  to  view  them,  and  returned  about  11:30. 
Brother  Clayton  sawr  an  adder  about  eighteen  inches  long. 
Brother  Nathaniel  Fairbanks  came  into  camp,  having  been  bit 
on  the  leg  with  a  rattlesnake.  He  had  been  up  on  the  bluffs,. 
and  he  said  he  felt  the  effects  of  it  all  o^er  his  body.  Three 
minutes  after  he  was  bit  he  felt  a  pricking  in  his  lungs.  They 
gave  him  a  dose  of  Lobelia  and  some  alcohol  and  water.  He 
is  suffering  much  from  pain. 

Brother  0.  Pratt  said  the  highest  bluff  was  235  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  river.  At  12  o'clock  the  horses  were  all  ti-'d 
up  and  the  brethren  called  together  for  meeting.  After  sing- 
ing and  prayer.  Brother  E.  Snow  made  some  remarks,  followed 
"by  President  Young.  We  had  a  first-rate  meeting.  Brother 
Young  gave  us  some  glorious  instructions,  which  done  my  soul 
good.  He  said  he  was  perfectly  well  satisfied  with  the  con 
duct  of  the  camp  and  the  spirit  .which  they  manifested  toward 
him  and  toward  one  another  and  all  things  Were  going  right. 
Brother  George  A.  Smith  and  others  made  some  remarks. 
Brother  Young  notified  the-  four  Bishons  present  to  prepare 
to  administer  the  sacrament  on  next  Sunday  at  11  o'clock. 
Soon  after  the  meeting  the  wind  blew  up  very  cold  from  the 


I  <  >  X  K  K  K  I  X  ( }     T  H  K     W  K  S  T 


-19 


two  and  a  half  miles  and  stoppe:!  to  feed  at  11  :!'>.  scveial  small 
ponds  of  water  being-  there.     We  continued  our  journey  at  1 :30 


p.  m.,   liavinu   ron:e   four  and   three-quarters   miles  over  a  low, 
soft  prairie  bottom.     By  the  appearance  of  it  there  must  have 


JjO PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

been  very  heavy  rains  ahead  of  us.  The  traveling  was  very 
heavy  for  our  teams,  but  at  3  p.  m.  we  started  on  again  and 
traveled  until  5:45,  having  come  four  and  three-quarters  miles, 
and  twelve  miles  during  the  day.  We  encamped  about  two 
miles  from  the  river.  The  brethren  dug  a  number  of  wells  and 
found  very  good  water.  Our  camp  ground  is  very  low  and  wet, 
which  makes  it  very  disagreeable.  The  evening  was  very  pleas- 
ant and  the  brethren  were  in  good  spirits. 

Wednesday,  May  26th. — This  morning  was  calm  and  pleas- 
ant, and  at  8  a.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After  travel- 
ing between  four  and  five  miles  we  came  to  a  point  directly 
opposite  Chimney  Rock.  We  had  traveled  forty-one  and  a  half 
miles  since  it  was  first  seen  with  the  naked  eye.  At  12  o'clock 
we  stopped  to  feed,  having  come  seven  and  a  quarter  miles  in  a 
north-northwest  course.  This  forenoon  the  roads  were  good. 
Brother  Kimball  rode  ahead  to  look  out  the  way.  The  hunters 
brought  in  four  antelope  to  camp  today. 

Brother  Pratt  ascertained  Chimney  Rock  to  be  260  feet 
high.  It  is  in  about  latitude  41  degrees  42  minutes  58  seconds. 
At  2 :25  we  again  started  and  traveled  near  the  river."  We  came 
five  miles  and  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river  about  5  p.  m., 
having  come  twelve  and  a  quarter  miles  during  the  day.  The 
feed  is  better  than  Ave  have  had  for  a  number  of  days,  but  wood 
was  very  scarce.  Soon  after  we  encamped,  a  heavy  black  cloud 
arose  in  the  west,  which  had  the  appearance  of  a  heavy  storm 
The  wind  blew  up  very  strong  from  the  northwest,  accompanied 
with  a  few  drops  of  rain.  About  6  o'clock  it  cleared  off  and 
we  had  a  beautiful  evening.  Some  of  the  brethren  were  mov- 
ing Brother  George  Billings'  wagon  and  run  the  wheel  over  the 
young  eagle  and  killed  it.  Brother  Billings  discovered  that  the 
end  of  an  axeltree  was  broke,  and  Brother  Harper  went  to  work 
on  it. 

Thursday,  May  27th. — This  morning  was  very  fine  and  the 
scenery-  was  beautiful.  The  bluffs  north  of  us  are  about  three 
miles  from  the  river,  the  prairie  is  level  and  the  feed  very  good. 
At  7:50  a.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  along  the  bank  of 
the  river  and  stopped  to  feed  at  11:45,  having  come  eisrht  miles. 
0.  P.  Rockwell  killed  two  antelope  and  brought  them  into  camp 
and  they  were  divided.  There  are  some  heavy  thunder  clouds 
in  the  south  and  west.  At  2  p.  m.  we  again  moved  westward, 
the  prairie  being  level  and  the  road  very  good.  We  passed 
Scott's  bluffs,  which  is  nineteen  and  three-quarters  miles  from 
Chimney  Rock,  between  3  and  4  o'clock.  At  4:45  we  encamped 
a  short  distance  from  the  river,  having  come  five  and  three- 
quarters  miles,  which  makes  thirteen  and  three-quarters  miles 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


51 


during  the  day.  Brother  Pratt  measured  the  North  fork  of  the 
Platte  river  with  his  sextant  and  found  it  to  be  792  yards  wide. 
The  north  peak  of  Scott's  bluffs  is  in  latitude  41  degrees  50 
minutes  52  seconds. 


Buffalo   Hunt   Near  Scott's   Bluffs. 

Friday,  May  28th. — The  morning-  was  cool  and  damp,  cloudy 
weather,  and  -some  rain  with  wind  northeast.  At  8  a.  m.  the 
brethren  were  called  together  and  the  question  proposed,  whether 
we  should  go  on  or  wait  for  fair  weather.  All  agreed  to  wait 
for  fair  weather.  About  11  o'clock  it  cleared  off,  and  we  gath- 
ered up  our  teams  and  started. 

Before  we  started  Brother  Luke  Johnson  and  myself  went 
up  the  river  about  three  miles  with  the  cutter  in  search  of  Avood. 
We  came  to  a  beautiful  clear  stream  of  water  about  eight  feet 
wide,  and  saw  large  numbers  of  small  fish  in  it.  It  is  not  very 
deep,  has  a  gravel  bottom  and  the  water  tastes  very  good.  It 
is  about  three  miles  long,  rises  from  springs  and  runs  in  a  line 
with  the  river  for  some  distance,  then  takes  a  turn  to  the  south 
and  empties  into  the  river. 

Part  of  the  road  today  Avas  sandy.  At  4:45  we  encamped 
near  the  river,  having  come  eleA^en  and  a  half  miles.  The  feed 
is  not  so  good  here,  but  driftAvood  is  tolerably  plenty.  The  even- 
ing Avas  cold  and  the  Aveather  dull  and  cloudy,  with  wind  north- 
east. 0.  P.  RockAvell  and  Thomas  BroAvn  Avent  out  hunting  north 
of  the  bluff.  The  latter  saAv  five  or  six  Indians  and  the  signs 
of  a  large  company. 

Saturday,  May  29th.— This  morning  Avas  cold,  Avet  and 
cloudy,  with  Avind  northeast,  but  about  10  a.  m.  it  cleared  off. 
At  10 :30  the  bugle  sounded  to  get  up  our  teams.  After  AVC  got 
all  ready  to  start  there  Avas  notice  giA-en  for  the  brethren  to 
come  together  to  the  boat  in  the  center  of  the  ring.  President 
Young,  taking  his  station  in  the  boat,  ordered  the  Captains  of 


_52 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

Tens  to  call  out  their  respective  companies  and  see  if  all  their 
men  were  present.  He  then  ordered  the  clerk  to  call  all  the 
names  to  see  if  they  were  all  present.  Joseph  Hancock  and 
AndreAv  Gibbons  were  reported  to  be  absent  hunting;.  President 
Young  arose  and  addressed  the  meeting  as  follows:  (Reported 
by  Brother  Wm.  Clayton,  who  has  kindly  permitted  me  to  copy 
it  from  the  journal.) 

Pioneer  Sermon  by  President  Young. 

"I  remarked  last   Sunday  that  I  had  not   felt  much  like 
preaching-  to  the  brethren  on  this  mission.     This  morning  ]  feel 


IlriKliniii  Vomm  Before  Pioneer  Days. 

like  preaching  a  little,  arid  shall  take  for  my  text,  that- 'As  to 
pursuing  our  journey  with  the  company,  with  the  spirit  they 
possess,  I  am  about  to  revolt  against  it.'  This  is  the  text  I 
feel  like  preaching  on  this  morning,  consequently  I  am  in  no 
hurry.  In  the  first  place,  before  \ve  Irl't  Winter  Quarters  it 
was  told  the  brethren,  and  manv  knew  it  by  expedience,  that 
we  had  to  leave  our  homes,  our  houses  and  lands,  our  all,  be- 
cause we  believed  in  the  Gospel  as  revealed  to  the  Saints  in 
these  last  days.  The  rise  of  the  iiersecntion  au-aiu-st  the  Church 
was  in  consequence  cf  the  doctrine  of  Eternal  Truth  taught  by 


.PIONEERING    THE    WEST 53 

Joseph.  Many  knew  this  by  experience.  Some  lost  their  hus- 
bands, some  lost  their  wives,  and  some  their  children  through 
persecution.  And  yet  we  have  not  been  disposed  to  forsake 
the  Truth  and  mingle  with  the  Gentiles,  except  a  few,  who  have 
turned  aside  and  gone  away  from  us.  And  we  have  learned  in 
a  measure  the  difference  between  a  professor  of  religion  and 
a  possessor  of  religion,  before  we  left  Winter  Quarters. 

"It  was  told  the  brethren  that  we  were  .going  to  look  out 
a  home  for  the  Saints,  where  they  could  be  free  from  persecu- 
tion by  the  Gentiles,  where  AVC  could  dwell  in  peace  and  serve 
God  according  to  the  Holy  Priesthood,  where  AVC  could  build  up 
the  Kingdom  so  that  the  nations  would  begin  to  flock  to  our 
standard.  I  have  said  many  things  to  the  brethren  about  the 
strictness  of  their  walk  and  conduct,  when  we  left  the  Gentiles; 
and  told  them  we  would  have  to  walk  uprightly  or  the  law  would 
be  put  in  force,  and  many  have  turned  aside  through  fear. 

"The  Gospel  does  not  bind  a  good  man  down,  and  deprive 
him  of  his  rights  and  privileges;  it  does  not  deprive  him  of  en- 
joying the  fruits  of  his  labors;  it  does  not  rob  him  of  blessings; 
it  does  not  stop  his  increase;  it  does  not  diminish  his  kingdom; 
but  is  calculated  to  enlarge  his  kingdom  as  well  as  to  enlarge 
his  heart ;  it  is  calculated  to  give  to  him  privileges,  and  power, 
and  honor,  and  exaltation,  and  everything  which  heart  can  de- 
sire in  righteousness  all  the  days  of  his  life.  And  then,  when 
he  gets  exalted  in  the  eternal  worlds,  he  can  still  turn  around 
and  say:  'It  hath  not  entered  into  the  heart  of  man  to  con- 
ceive the  glory,  and  honor,  and  blessings,  which  God  hath  in 
store  for  those  who  love  and  serve  him.' 

"I  want  the  brethren  to  understand  and  comprehend  the 
principles  of  Eternal  Life,  and  watch  the  Spirit,  be  wide  awake, 
and  not  be  overcome  by  the  adversary.  You  can  see  the  fruits 
of  the  Spirit,  but  you  cannot  see  the  Spirit  itself.  With  the 
natural  eye  you  behold  it  not.  You  can  see  the  result  of  yield- 
ing to  the  evil  spirits  and  what  it  Avill  lead  you  to,  but  you  do 
not  see  the  spirit  itself,  nor  its  operations  only  by  the  spirit 
that  i«  in  you. 

"Nobody  has  told  me  what  was  going  on  in  this  camp,  but 
I  have  known  it  all  the  while.  I  have  been  watching  its  move- 
ments, its  influence,  its  effects;  and  I  know  the  result  of  it.  if 
it  is  not  put  a  stop  to.  I  Avant  you  to  understand  that,  inasmuch 
as  we  are  beyond  the  power  of  the  Gentiles,  where  the  devils 
have  tabernacles  in  the  priests  and  all  the  people;  but  we  are 
beyond  their  reach.  Ave  are  beyond  their  poAver.  A\e  are  bevond 
their  srasp:  and,  what  has  the  Devi]  how  to  Avork  upon?  Upon 
the  spirits  of  the  men  in  this  camp.  And  if  you  don't  open  your 


JJ4 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

hearts  so  that  the  Spirit  of  God  can  enter  your  hearts  and  teach 
you  the  right  way,  I  know  that  you  are  a  ruined  people,  I  know 
that  you  will  be  destroyed  and  that  without  remedy.  And,  un- 
less there  is  a  change  and  a  different  course  of  conduct,  a  dif- 
ferent spirit  to  that  which  there  is  now  in  this  camp,  I  go  no 
further.  I  am  in  no  hurry. 

"Give  me  the  man  of  prayer;  give  me  the  man  of  faith; 
give  me  the  man  of  discretion;  a  sober-minded  man,  and  I 
would  rather  go  among  the  savages  with  six  or  eight  such  men, 
than  to  trust  myself  with  the  whole  of  this  camp  with  the  spirit 
they  now  possess.  Here  is  an  opportunity  for  evei'y  man  to 
prove  himself,  to  know  whether  he  will  pray,  and  remember  his 
God,  Avithout  being  asked  to  do  it  every  day.  To  know  whether 
they  will  have  confidence  enough  to  ask  of  God  that  they  may 
receive,  without  my  telling  them  to  do  it.  If  this  camp  was 
composed  of  men  who  had  newrly  received  the  Gospel ;  men  who 
had  not  received  Priesthood ;  men  who  'had  not  been  through 
the  ordinances  in  the  Temple ;  and  who  had  not  had  years  of 
experience,  enough  to  have  learned  the  influence  of  the  spirits, 
and  the  difference  between  a  good  and  an  evil  spirit,  I  should 
feel  like  preaching  to  them  and  watching  over  them  and  teach- 
ing them  all  the  time,  day  by  day.  But  here  are  the  Elders  of 
Israel,  men  who  have  had  years  of  experience,  men  who  havre 
had  the  Priesthood  for  years;  and  have  they  got  faith  enough 
to  rise  up  and  stop  a  mean,  low,  groveling,  contentious,  quarrel- 
some spirit?  No.  They  have  not,  nor  would  they  try  to  do  it, 
unless  I  rise  up  in  the  power  of  God  and  put  it  down  .  I  don't 
mean  to  bow  down  to  the  spirit  there  is  in  this  camp,  and  which 
is  rankling  in  the  bosoms  of  the  brethren,  which  shall  lead  to 
knockdown,  and  perhaps  to  use  the  knife  to  cut  each  other's 
throats,  if  it  is  not  put  a  stop  to.  I  don't  mean  to  bow  down 
to  the  spirit  which  causes  the  brethren  to  quarrel — and  when 
I  wake  up  in  the  morning,  the  first  thing  I  hear  is  some  of  the 
brethren  jawing  each  other  and  quarreling  because  a  horse  has 
got  loose  in  the  night. 

"I  have  let  the  brethren  dance  and  fiddlp  and  act  the 
nigger,  night  after  night,  to  see  what  they  would  do,  and  what 
extremes  they  would  go  to.  if  suffered  to  go  as  far  as  they 
would;  but  I  don't  love  to  see  it.  The  brethren  say  they  want 
a  little  exercise  to  pass  the  time  evenings;  but  if  you  can't 
tire  yourselves  enough  with  a  day's  journev.  without  dancing 
every  nisrht.  carry  your  guns  on  your  shoulders  and  walk,  and 
carry  your  wood  to  camp,  instead  of  lounging  and  sleeping  in 
your  wagons,  increasing  the  loads  until  your  teams  ai*e  tired 
to  death  and  ready  to  drop  to  the  earth.  Help  your  teams 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 55_ 

over  mudholes  and  bad  places,  instead  of  lounging  in  your 
-wagons,  and  that  Avill  give  you  exercise  enough  without  dancing. 

•'Well,  they  will  play  cards;  they  will  play  checkers;  they 
will  play  dominoes;  and,  if  they  had  the  privileges,  and  were 
where  they  could  get  whisky,  they  Avould  be  drunk  half  of  their 
time,  and  in  one  week  they  would  quarrel,  get  to  high  words, 
and  draw  their  knives  to  kill  each  other.  That  is  what  such  a 
course  of  things  would  tend  to.  Don't  you  know  it?  Yes.  Well, 
then,  why  don 't  you  try  to  put  it  down  ?  I  have  played  cards 
once  in  my  life,  since  I  became  a  'Mormon,'  to  see  what  kind 
of  a  spirit  would  attend  it,  and  I  w7as  so  well  satisfied  that  I 
would  rather  see  the  dirtiest  thing  in  your  hands  that  you  could 
find  on  the  earth,  than  to  see  a  pack  of  cards  in  your  hands. 
You  never  read  of  gambling,  playing  cards,  checkers,  dominoes, 
etc.,  in  the  Scriptures.  But  you  do  hear  of  men  praising  the 
Lord  in  the  dance,  but  Avho  ever  heard  of  praising  the  I^ord  in 
a  game  of  cards?  If  any  man  had  sense  enough  to  play  a 
game  of  cards,  or  dance  a  little,  without  wanting  to  keep  it  up 
all  the  time;  but  exercise  a  little  and  then  quit  it,  and  think 
no  more  of  it,  it  would  be  well  enough.  But  you  want  to  keep 
it  up  till  jnidnight,  and  every  night,  and  all  the  time.  You 
don't  know  how  to  control  yourselves. 

"Last  winter  when  we  had  our  season  of  recreation  in 
the  Council  House,  I  went  forth  in  the  dance  frequently;  but 
did  my  rnind  run  on  it  ?  No.  To  be  sure,  when  I  was  dancing 
my  mind  was  on  the  dance,  but  the  moment  I  stopped  in  the 
middle  or  the  end  of  a  time,  my  mind  was  engaged  in  prayer 
and  praise  to  my  Heavenly  Father;  and  whatever  I  engage  in, 
my  mind  is  on  it  while  engaged  in  it,  but  the  moment  1  am 
done  with  it,  my  mind  is  drawn  up  to  my  God. 

"The  devils  which  inhabit  the  Gentile  priests  are  here. 
Their  tabernacles  are  not  here.  We  are  out  of  their  power. 
We  are  beyond  their  grasp.  We  are  beyond  the  reach  of  their 
persecutions.  But  the  devils  are  here  and  the  first  we  shall 
know,  if  you  don't  open  your  eyes  and  your  hearts,  they  will 
cause  division  in  our  camp,  and  perhaps  war,  as  they  did  the 
former  Saints,  as  you  read  in  the  'Book  of  Mormon.' 

"We  suppose  that  we  are  going  to  look  out  a  home  for 
the  Saints,  a  resting  place,  a  place  of  peace,  where  we  can  build 
up  the  Kingdom  and  bid  the  nations  welcome,  without  a  low, 
mean,  dirty,  trifling,  covetous,  wicked  spirit  dwelling  in  our 
bosoms.  Tt  is  vain,  vain! 

"Some  of  you  are  very  fond  of  passing  jokes,  and  will 
carry  your  joke  very  far,  but  will  you  take  a  joke?  If  you 
don't  want  to  take  a  joke,  don't  give  a  joke  to  your  brethren. 


JJ6 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

Joking  nonsense,  profane  language,  don't  belong  to  us.  Sup- 
pose the  Angels  were  witnessing  the  hoedown  the  other  even- 
ing, and  listening  to  the  haw-haws,  would  they  not  be  ashamed 
of  it?  I  have  not  given  a  joke  to  any  man  on  the  journey, 
nor  felt  like  it.  Neither  have  I  insulted  any  man's  feelings, 
but  I  have  bellowed  pretty  loud,  and  spoke  sharp  to  the  breth- 
ren, when  I  have  seen  their  awkwardness  at  coming  into  camp. 

"The  revelations  in  the  Bible,  in  the  'Book  of  Mormon,' 
and  Doctrine  and  Covenants  teaches  us  to  be  sober.  And  let 
me  ask  you  Elders  that  have  been  through  the  ordinances  in 
the  Temple,  what  were  your  covenants  there?  I  want  that  you 
should  remember  them.  When  I  laugh  I  see  my  .folly  and 
nothingness,  and  weakness,  and  am  ashamed  of  myself.  I  think 
meaner  and  worse  of  myself  than  any  can  think  of  me.  But 
I  delight  in  God,  and  in  His  commandments,  and  delight  to 
meditate  on  Him,  and  to  serve  Him;  and  I  mean  that  every- 
thing in  me  shall  be  subject  to  Him,  and  I  delight  in  serving 
-Him. 

"Now  let  every  man  repent  of  his  weakness,  of  his  follies. 
of  his  meanness,  and  every  kind  of  wickedness — and  stop  your 
swearing,  and  your  profane  language — for  it  is  in  this  camp. 
I  know  it  and  have  known  it.  I  have  said  nothing  about  it; 
but  T  tell  you,  if  you  don't  stop  it.  you  shall  be  cursed  by  the 
Almighty,  and  shall  dwindle  away  and  be  damned.  Such  things 
shall  not  be  suffered  in  this  camp.  You  shall  honor  God  and 
confess  His  name,  or  else  you  shall  suffer  the  penalty. 

"Most  of  this  camp  belong  to  the  Church,  nearly  all.  and 
I  would  say  to  you  brethren,  and  to  the  Elders  of  Israel,  it  you 
are  faithful  you  will  yet  be  sent  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  the 
nations  of  the  earth,  and  bid  all  welcome,  whether  they  believe 
in  -the  Gospel  or  not.  And  this  Kingdom  will  reiun  over  many 
who  do  not  belong  to  the  Church;  over  thousands  who  do  not 
believe  in  the  Gospel.  By  and  bv  every  knee-  shall  bo\v,  and 
every  tongue  confess,  and  acknowledge,  and  reverence,  and 
honor  the  name  of  Cod  and  His  Priesthood,  and  observe  the 
laws  of  the  Kingdom,  whether  they  belong  to  the  Church  and 
obey  the  Gospel,  or  not.  And  I  mean  that  every  man  in  this 
camp  shall  do  it.  This  is  what  the  Scriptures  moan  by  '  Kvery 
knee  shall  bow.'  etc..  and  you  cannot  make  anything  else  out 
of  it. 

I  understand  that  there  are  several  in  this  "amp,  who  do  not 
belong  to  the  Church.  I  am  a  man  who  will  stand  up  for  them, 
and  protect  them  in  all  their  rights;  and  thev  shall  not  trample 
on  the  rights  of  others,  nor  on  the  Priesthood.  They  reverence 
and  acknowledge  the  name  of  God,  and  His  Priesthood,  and,  if 


PIONEERING     T  H  E     W  E  S  T 57 

they  set  up  their  heads  and  seek  to  introduce  iniquity  into  this 
camp,  and  to  trample  on  the  Priesthood,  I  swear  to  them  they 
shall  never  go  back  to  tell  the  tale.  I  will  leave  them  where  they 
will  be  safe.  If  they  want  to  return  they  can  now  have  the 
privilege;  and  any  man,  who  chooses  to  go  back,  rather  than 
abide  the  laws  of  God,  can  now  have  tbe  privilege  of  doing  so 
before  ^e  go  further. 

"Here  are  the  Elders  of  Israel  who  have  got  the  Priesthood, 
who  have  to  preach  the  Gospel,  who  have  to  gather  the  nations 
of  tin?  earth,  who  have  to  build  up  the  Kingdom  so  that  the  na- 
tions can  come  to  it.  They  will  stoop  to  dance  like  nigers.  I 
don't  mean  this  as  debasing  the  nigers  by  any  means.  They 
will  hoedown,  all  turn  summersets,  dance  on  their  knees,  and 
haw-haw  out  loud.  They  will  play  cards,  and  they  will  play 
checkers  and  dominoes.  •  They  will  use  profane  language.  They 
will  swear. 

' '  Suppose  when  you  go  to  preach,  the  people  ask  you  what 
you  did.  when  you  went  up  on  this  mission  to  seek  out  a  location 
for  the  whole  Church?  What  was  your  course  of  conduct'?  Did 
yon  dance  '  Yes.  Did  you  play  cards?  Yes.  Did  you  play  check- 
ers .'  Yes.  Did  you  use  profane  language ?  Yes.  Did  you  swear? 
Yes.  Did  you  gamble  with  each  other  and  threaten  each  other"? 
Yes.  How  would  you  feel "?  What  would  you  say  for  yourselves? 
Would  you  not  want  to  go  and  hide  up?  Your  mouth  would  be 
stopped,  and  you  would  want  to  creep  away  in  disgrace. 

' '  I  am  one  of  the  last  to  ask  my  brethren  to  enter  into  a 
solemn  covenant,  but,  if  they  will  not  enter  into  a  solemn  coven- 
ant to  put  awav  their  iniquity,  and  turn  to  the  Lord,  and  serve 
Him.  and  acknowledge  and  honor  His  name.  I  want  them  to  take 
their  wagons  and  return  back,  FOR  I  SHALL  NOT  GO  ANY 
FARTHER  under  this  state  of  thing's.  If  we  don't  repent  and 
quit  our  wickedness,  we  will  have  more  hinderanees1  than  we  have 
had  and  worse  storms  to  encounter.  I  want  the  brethren  to  be 
ready  for  meeting  tomorrow  at  the  appointed  time,  instead  of 
rambling  off  and  hiding  in  their  wagons  to  play  cards,  etc.  I 
think  it  will  be  good  for  us  to  have  a  fast  meeting  tomorrow,  and 
a  prayer  meeting,  and  humble  ourselves  and  turn  to  the  Lord,  and 
He  will  forgive  us. ' ' 

He  then  called  upon  all  the  Hi£rh  Priests  to  step  out  in  a  line 
in  front  of  the  wagon:  and  then  the  Bishops  to  step  out  in  front 
of  the  High  Priests.  H>  then  counted  them  and  ascertained  their 
numbers  to  be  four  Bishops  and  fifteen  High  Priests.  He  then 
called  for  all  the  Seventies  to  form  a  line  in  the  rear.  There  was 
seventv-eicht  in  number.  The  Elders  were  then  called  out  in  line. 
Their  number  was  eight.  There  was  also  eight  of  the  Twelve. 


j>8 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

He  then  .asked  the  brethren  of  the  Twelve,  if  they  were  will- 
ing to  covenant  to  turn  to  the  Lord  with  all  their  hearts,  to  re- 
pent of  all  their  follies,  to  cease  from  all  their  evils,  and  serve 
God  according  to  His  laws  ?  If  they  were  willing,  to  manifest  it 
by  holding  up  their  right  hands.  Every  man  raised  his  hand.  He 
then  put  the  question  to  the  High  Priests,  and  Bishops,  to  the 
Seventies  and  Elders,  and  last  to  the  other  brethren.  All 
covenanted  with  uplifted  hands,  without  a  dissenting  voice. 
He  then  addressed  those  who  were  not  members  of  the  Church 
and  told  them  they  should  be  protected  in  their  rights  and 
privileges,  while  they  would  conduct  themselves  well  and  not 
seek  to  trample  on  the  Priesthood,  nor  blaspheme  the  name  of 
God,  etc. 

He  then  referred  to  the  conduct  of  Benjamin  Rolfe's  two 
younger  brothers  in  joining  with  the  Higby's  and  John  C. 
Bennett  in  sowing  discontent  and  strife  among  the  Saints  in 
Nauvoo.  and  remarked  that,  "There  will  be  no  more  Bennett 
scrapes  suffered  here.  He  spoke  highly  of  Benjamin  Rolfe's 
conduct,  although  not  a  member  of  the  Church,  and  also  re- 
ferred to  the  esteem  in  which  his  father  and  mother  were  held 
by  the  Saints  generally.  He  then  very  tenderly  blessed  the 
brethren  and  prayed  that  God  would  enable  them  to  fulfill 
their  covenants,  and  withdrew  to  give  a  chance  to  others  to 
speak,  if  they  felt  like  it. 

Brother  Heber  C.  Kimball  arose  and  said:  that  he  agreed 
to  all  that  President  Young  had  said.  He  received  it  as  the 
word  of  God  to  himself,  and  it  was  the  word  of  the  Lord  to 
this  camp,  if  they  would  receive  it.  He  had  been  watching 
the  motions  of  things  and  the  conduct  of  the  brethren  for  some 
time,  and  had  seen  what  it  would  lead  to.  He  had  said  little 
but  had  thought  a  good  deal.  It  had  made  him  shudder,  when 
he  had  seen  the  Elders  of  Israel  descend  to  the  lowest  and 
dirtiest  things  imaginable — the  last  end  of  everything.  But 
what  had  passed  this  morning  would  be  an  everlasting  bless- 
ing to  the  brethren,  if  they  would  repent  and  be  faithful  and 
keep  their  covenants.  He  could  never  rest  satisfied  until  his 
family  were  liberated  from  the  Gentiles  and  their  corruptions, 
and  established  in  a  land  where  they  could  plant  and  eat  the 
fruit  of  their  labors.  He  had  never  had  the  privilege  of  eat- 
ing the  fruits  of  his  labors  yet,  neither  had  his  family,  but 
when  this  was  done  he  could  sleep  in  peace,  but  not  until  then. 

He  said:  "If  we  will  serve  the  Lord  and  remember  His 
name  to  call  upon  Him,  we  shall  not  one  of  us  be  left  under 
the  sod,  but  shall  be  permitted  to  return  and  meet  our  fam- 
ilies in  peace,  and  enjoy  their  society  again.  But,  if  this  camp 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 59_ 

continues  the  course  of  conduct  they  have  done,  the  judg- 
ment of  God  will  overtake  us.  I  hope  the  brethren  will  take 
heed  to  what  President  Young  has  said,  and  let  it  sink  deep 
into  their  hearts.'' 

Brother  Kimball  made  some  very  feeling  remarks,  with 
some  instructions,  that  have  not  been  written.  He  blessed 
the  brethren  in  the  name  of  the  Lord,  and  he  appeared  to  be 
very  much  affected  and  very  humble. 

Elder  Orson  Pratt  wanted  to  add  a  word  to  what  had  been 
said.  ''Much  good  advice  has  been  given  to  teach  us  how 
we  may  spend  our  time  profitably — by  prayer,  meditation,  etc. 
— but  there  is  another  idea  which  I  want  to  add:  There  are 
many  good  books  in  the  camp  and  worlds  of  knowledge  before 
us,  which  we  have  not  attained,  and,  if  the  brethren  would  de- 
vote all  their  leisure  time  to  seeking  after  knowledge,  they 
would  never  need  to  say,  they  had  nothing  to  pass  away  their 
time.  If  we  could  spend  twenty-three  hours  of  the  twenty- 
four  in  gaining  knowledge,  and  only  sleep  one  hour,  all  the 
days  of  our  lives,  there  \vould  be  worlds  of  knowledge  in  store 
yet  for  us  to  learn. 

"I  know  it  is  difficult  to  bring  our  minds  to  dilligent  and 
constant  studv.  in  pursuit  of  knowledge  all  at  once,  but  by 
steady  practice  and  perseverance  we  shall  become  habitual  to 
it,  and  it  will  become  a  pleasure  to  us.  I  would  recommend  to 
the  brethren,  besides  prayer  and  obedience,  to  seek  after 
knowledge  continually,  and  it  will  help  us  to  overcome  our 
follies  and  nonsense.  "We  shall  have  no  time  for  it." 

Elder  Woodruff  said:  "He.  remembered  the  time  Zion's 
camp  went  up  to  Missouri  to  redeem  Zion,  when  Brother  Jo- 
seph Smith  stood  upon  a  wagon  wheel  and  told  the  brethren 
that  the  decree  had  passed  and  could  not  be  revoked;  that: 
the  destroying  angel  would  visit  the  camp;  and  the  brethren 
began  to  feel  what  Brother  Joseph  had  said.  We  buried 
eighteen  in  a  very  short  time,  and  a  more  sorrowful  time  I 
never  saw  before.  There  are  nine  men  here  that  were  in  that 
camp,  and  they  all  recollect  the  circumstances  well,  and  will 
never  forget  it.  I  was  thinking  while  the  President  was 
speaking;  that,  if  I  was  one  who  had  played  cards  or  checkers, 
I  would  take  every  pack  of  cards,  and  checker  board  and  burn 
them  up.  so  that  they  would  not  be  in  the  way  to  tempt  us." 

Colonel  Markham  acknowledged  that  he  had  done  wrong, 
in  many  things.  He  had  always  indulged  himself  before  he 
came  into  the  Church,  with  everything  he  desired  and  he 
knew  he  had  done  wrong  on  this  journev.  He  knew  his  mind 
had  become  darkened  since  he  left  Winter  Quarters.  He  hoped 


_60 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

the  brethren  would  forgive  him,  and  he  would  pray  to  God  to 
forgive  him,  and  he  would  try  to  do  better.  While  he  was 
speaking,  he  was  very  much  affected  indeed,  and  wept  like  a 
child. 

Many  of  the  brethren  were  very  much  affected,  and  all 
seemed  to  realize  for  the  first  time,  the  spirit  to  which  they 
had  yielded,  and  the  awful  consequences  of  such  things,  if  per- 
sisted in.  Many  were  in  teal's  and  felt  humble.  President 
Young  returned  to  the  boat  as  Brother  Markham  closed  his  re- 
marks, and  said  in  reply: 

"That  he  knew  that  the  brethren  Mould  forgive  him,  and 
the  Lord  will  forgive  us  all,  if  we  turn  to  Him  with  nil  our 
hearts  and  cease  to  do  evil.  The  meeting  was  then  dismis>ed, 
each  man  returned  to  his  wagon. 

At  1:30  p.  m.  we  again  pursued  our  journey  in  peace,  all 
reflecting  on  what  had  been  said  today,  and  many  expressing 
their  gratitude  for  the  instructions  they  had  received.  It 
seemed  as  if  we  were  just  starting  on  this  important  mission, 
and  all  began  to  realize  the  responsibility  resting  upon  us,  to 
conduct  ourselves  in  such  a  manner,  that  this  mission  may 
prove  an  everlasting  blessing  to  us,  instead  of  an  everlasting 
disgrace.  No  loud  laughter  was  heard,  nor  swearing,  no  pro- 
fane language,  no  hard  speeches  to  man  or  beast:  and  it 
seemed  as  if  the  cloud  had  broke  and  we  had  emerged  into  a 
L^new  element,  and  a  new  atmosphere,  and  a  new  socity. 

We  traveled  six  miles  about  a  north-northwest  course.  an;l 
then  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  low  bluffs,  which  extended 
within  ten  rods  of  the  'river,  the  latter  forming  a  large  bend, 
northward  at  this  point.  At 'the  foot  of  the  bluffs  the  road 
was  sandy  and  very  heavy  en  our  teams.  Like  all  other  sandy 
places,  it  is  entirely  barren,  there  being  only  a  tuft  of  grass 
here  and  there.  After  passing  over  the  sand,  we  changed  our 
course  to  a  little  north  of  west,  not,  however,  leaving  the 
bluffs  very  far.  The  river  tends  again  to  the  south,  win-re  \ve 
then  found  the  ground  hard  and  u-ood  to  tiavel  over,  but  per- 
fectly bare  of  grass  for  about  a  mile. 

At  5  o'clock  it  commenced  raining  very  hard,  accompan- 
ied with  lightning  and  thunder  and  a  *trong  northeast  wind. 
It  also  changed  to  considerable  colder  again.  At  .l^u  ve 
found  our  encampment,  near  the  highest  bench  of  the  prairie. 
The  feed  is  not  very  good  on  the  bottoms,  and  here  there  is 
none  at  all.  We  have  passed  a  small  grove  of  tolerable  siv:.-d 
trees,  all  green,  growing  on  an  island  in  the  river.  There  is 
no  timber  on  this  side  of  the  river.  We  picked  up  driftwood 
enough  to  do  our  cooking.  The  distance  we  have  traveled  to- 


P  I  0  X  E  E  RING     T  H  E    W  E  S  T 


day  is  eight  and  one-half  miles,  and  during  the  week  seventy- 
four  and  one-half  miles,  making  us  514V2  miles  from  Winter 
Quarters.  There  is  a  creek  of  clear  water  about  200  yards  to 
the  south  of  us  from  which  we  obtain  our  water. 

Sunday,  May  30th.  —  The  morning  was  fair  and  pleasant, 
and  about  9  a.  in.  the  brethren  met  together  a  little  south  of 
the  camp,  and  had  a  prayer  meeting.  Many  of  the  brethren 
expressed  their  feelings  warmly,  and  confessed  their  faults 
one  to  another.  Between  11  and  12  o'clock  the  meeting  was 
dismissed,  and  the  brethren  gathered  up  their  horses  and  tied 
them,  and  met  again  about  12  o'clock,  and  partook  of  the  Sac- 
rament. The  Twelve  with  some  others  went  north  of  the 
bluffs  and  had  a  meeting.  All  conducted  themselves  peaceably 
and  quiet  today.  They  -seem  to  have  profited  by  the  instruc- 
tions we  got  on  Saturday.  We  had  some  rain  this  afternoon, 
but  the  evening  is  pleasant. 

Monday,  May  31st.  —  This  morning  was  cool  but  pleasant, 
and  at  8  :15  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  over  a  good  hard 
road.  At  12:30  we  stopped  to  feed,  having  come  nine  and  one- 
half  miles.  At  3  p.  m.  we  again  started,  coming  seven  and 
one-quarter  miles  and  stopped  at  6:45  and  encamped  near  a 
stream  about  a  rod  wide,  the  feed  being  very  poor.  We  came 
sixteen  and  three-quarters  miles  today.  This  afternoon  w7e 
passed  some  timber  on  this  side  of  the  river,  the  first  we  had 
seen  since  the  10th  inst.  (being  a  distance  of  215  miles),  ex- 
cept a  little  driftwood  the  brethren  have  picked  up.  The  road 
has  been  very  sandy.  Sume  of  the  brethren  killed  a  deer  this 
afternoon,  and  wounded  two  others.  Last  Sunday  President 
Young  and  Kimball  saw  the  Black  Hills.  The  camp  are  all 
well  and  in  liuod-  sj  irits. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


8.— PLATTE   RIVER  CROSSINGS,  JUNE,  1847. 

Tuesday,  June  1st,  1847. — The  morning-  was  very  fine, 
warm  and  pleasant,  and  at  9  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  At  11 :30  we  halted  to  feed,  having  come  about  four 
and  one-half  miles.  At  1:30  we  started  on  again  and  contin- 
ued until  4:15,  and  came  in  sight  of  Fort  Laramie,  about  four 
miles  southwest  of  us.  At  5:45  the  wagons  formed  an  en- 
campment in  the  form  of  a  V,  having  traveled  seven  and  one- 
half  miles. 

Six  wagons,  which  are  a  part  of  the  Mississippi  Company, 
that  wintered  at  Pueblo,  are  here.  They  have  been  here  two 
weeks,  and  they  report  that  the  remainder  of  their  company 
were  coming  on  with  a  detachment  of  the  "Mormon  Battalion." 
who  expected  to  be  paid  off  and  start  for  this  point  about  the 
first  of  June.  Two  of  the  brethren  came  across  the  river  to 
see  us,  and  they  report  that  nothing  has  been  heard  from  the 
main  body  of  the  Battalion  and  that  there  1ms  been  three  or 
four  deaths  at  Pueblo.  They  said  that  three  traders  from  the 
mountains  arrived  here  six  days  ago,  having  come  from  the 
Sweet  Water  in  six  days  and  nights,  traveling  day  and  night 
with  horses  and  mules  to  prevent  them  from  starving  to 
death.  Two  of  their  oxen  had  died  for  want  of  feed.  The 
snow  was  two  feet  deep  at  the  Sweet  Water.  It  is  e\idcnt 
that  we  are  early  enough  for  the  feed. 

I  make  the  distance  from  Winter  Quarters  to  Laramie 
54114  miles,  which  is  two  miles  less  than  Brother  Clayton,  and 
we  have  traveled  it  in  seven  weeks,  lacking  half  a  day.  and 
have  not  traveled  but  a  few  miles  on  Sundays.  We  have  come 
this  far  without  accidents,  except  the  loss  of  two  horses  stolen 
by  the  Indians,  and* two  killed.  The  Lord  lias  blessed  and 
prospered  us  on  our  journey,  and  the  camp  enjoys  better  health 
than  they  did  when  they  left  Winter  Quarters.  The  country 
begins  to  have  a  more  hilly  and  mountainous  appearance,  and 
some  of  the  Black  Hills  show  very  plainly  from  here.  The 
timber  is  mostly  ash  and  cottonwood  on  the  low  bottoms  on 
the  river,  but  there  are  some  cedar  groves  on  the  bluffs. 
There  is  an  Indian  baby  wrapped  around  with  skin-.?,  deposited 
in  the  hranche<  of  a  large  ash  tree,  which  is  in  the  center  of 
mi:-  i-ainjt.  It  is  said  that  this  is  the  mode  of  burying  their 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 63 

dead.  The  baric  is  peeled  off  of  the  tree  to  prevent  the 
wofvelTclimbing  up. 

Wednesday,  J\me  2nd. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  and 
about  9  o'clock  the  Twelve  and  some  others  went  across  the 
river  to  view  the  fort,  and  inquire  something  concerning  our 
route.  Brother  Pratt  measured  the  distance  across  the  river 
and  found  it  to  be  108  yards.  The  water  is  deep  in  the  chan- 
nel, and  the  current  runs  about  three  and  one-half  miles  an 
hour.  There  is  an  old  fort  near  the  bank  of  the  river  on  the 
other  side,  and  the  outside  walls  are  still  standing,  but  the 
inside  is  ruins,  having  been  burned.  The  walk  are  built  of 
Spanish  brick,  which  is  large  pieces  of  tempered  clay  dried  in 
the  sun,  and  laid  up  like  brick  with  mortar.  The  dimensions 
of  this  fort,  outside,  from  east  to  wrest,  is  144  feet,  and  from 
north  to  south  103  feet.  There  is  a  large  door  fronting  the 
south,  which  led  to  the  dwellings,  fourteen  in  number  when 
burned. 

Fort  Laramie  is  about  two  miles  from  the  Platt,  situated 
on  the  bank  of  a  stream,  called  by  the  same  name,  which  is 
forty-one  yards  wide  with  a  very  swift  current,  but  not  very, 
deep.  The  brethren,  who  went  to  the  fort,  were  informed  that 
we  could  not  travel  more  than  four  miles  further  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Platte,  the  bluffs  being  impassable  with  wagons; 
also  that  the  first  year  corn  was  planted  there  it  done  very 
well,  but  none  could  be  raised  since  for  want  of  rain  as  it  had 
not  rained  for  two  years  there  until  a  few  days  ago.  They,  at 
the  fort,  have  a  very  good  flat  boat,  and  will  let  us  have  it 
for  $15,  or  ferry  us  over  for  $18,  or  25c  per  wagon.  Tiiejtrade 
of  this  place  is  principally  with  the  Sioux  Indians.  The  Crow 
Indians  came  here  a  few  weeks  ago  and  stole  twenty-five 
horses,  which  were  within  300  yards  of  the  fort  and  a  guard 
around  them.  The  lattitude  of  this  place  is  42  degrees  12 
minutes  and  13  seconds. 

When  the  brethren  returned  they  brought  the  boat  with 
them.  Some  of  the  brethren  went  fishing  this  afternoon  with 
the  seine,  in  the  Laramie  Fork,  and  caught  sixty  or  seventy 
small  fish.  The  Twelve  have  decided  that  Brother  Amasa 
Lyman  should  go  with  R.  Stevens,  John  Tippets  and  T. 
Woolsey  to  Pueblo. 

Thursday,  June  3rd. — This  morning  was  cold  with  a  strong 
southeast  wind,  and  the  first  division  commenced  crossing  their 
wagons  early.  The  wind  blowing  strong  up  the  river,  made  it 
easier  crossing.  They  ferried  a  wagon  over  in  fifteen  minuets. 
The  blacksmiths  got  their  forges  up,  and  went  to  work  repair- 
ing wagons  and  shoeing  horses.  At  11 :15  the  brethren  started 


64 P  I  0  X  E  E  RING     THE    WEST 

for  Pueblo  mi  horseback.  President  Young,  Kiniball.  liichards 
and  Pratt  accompanied  them  to  the  La  ramie  Fork  and  there 
held  a  council,  kneeled  down  and  dedicated  them  to  the  Lord 
and  blessed  them.  At  1:40  p.  m.  it  commenced  raining,  ac- 
companied by  hail  and  lightning  with  very  loud  thunder, 
which  lasted  until  3:30.  During  the  storm  the  hor.ses  were 
secured  in  the  old  fort,  and  the  ferry  ceased  running.  About 
5  o'clock  the  first  division  was  over.  The  boat  was  then 
manned  by  the  second  division,  lead  by  John  S.  Higby.  They 
averaged  a  wagon  across  in  eleven  minutes. 

About  7  o'clock  it  commenced  raining  again  with  wind 
southeast,  which  stopped  the  ferrv,  leaving  three  companies 
of  about  fifteen  wagons  on  the  other  side.  Four  men  have 
arrived  from  St.  Joseph.  Mo.,  who  report  that  twenty  wagons 
are  three  miles  below  and  b'OO  or  700  were  passed  on  the  road. 
They  think  that  there  will  be  about  2000  wagons  leave  the 
states  this  season  for  Oregon  and  California.  The  Crow 
Indians  stole  four  of  their  horses. 

Friday,  June  4th. — The  morning  was  very  fine,  and  Lara- 
mie  Peak  shows  very  plain.  The  brethren  commenced  t'eirying 
at  4:30,  and  at  8  o'clock  President  Yi.uim-.  Kimbail  and  others 
went  up  to  Fort  Laramie,  returning  about  11  o'clock.  They 
heard  very  favorable  reports  from  the  trailers  about  I '.,>., r 
River  valley,  being  well  timbered  and  plenty  of  grass,  light 
winters  and  very  little  snow:  also  fish  in  abundance  in  the 
streams.  About  11:3:1  Brother  Crow's  company  came  and 
joined  the  second  division. 

At  12  o'clock  we  again  started  on  our  journey,  following 
the  wau'on  road,  and  at  1:20  \\  e  halted  to  feed,  having  come 
three  miles.  The  bluffs  are  very  his-h  and  come  near  the  river. 
At  2:30  we  continued  our  journev  and  found  the  road  very 
uneven  and  sandy.  About  seven  and  three-quarters  miles  from 
Laramie  we  descended  a  very  steep  pitch,  or  hill,  and  had  to 
lock  our  wheels  for  the  'first  time  for  six  weeks.  At  5:30 
we  encamped,  having  come  eight  and  one-quarter  miles  during 
the  day.  About  the  time  we  encamped  we  had  a  veiy  heavy 
thunder  shower. 

I  will  give  the  names  of  Brother  Crow's  companv.  They 
are  a-»  follows:  Robert  Crow.  Kli/abeth  Crow,  !>enjamin  Crow. 
Harriet  Crow.  Joim  McIIeni  v  Crow.  Walter  11.  Crow.  \Villiam 
Parker  Crow.  Isa  Ycnda  Kxene  Crow,  Ira  Mi;ida  Almereiie 
Crow;  (reorare  \V.  Therlkill.  Matilda  Jan-  Therlkill.  Jair.es 
William  Therlkill,  Milton  Howard  Thoi  UiM.  Archibald  Little, 
James  Chesuev  and  Lewis  l'>.  M\ers.  -event ecu  in  number, 
making  101  souls  in  the  Pioneer  company,  deducting  the  four 


P  I  0  X  E  K  RING     T  H  E     W  E  S  T 65 

that  have  gone  to  Pueblo.  J.  B.  Myers  is  represented  as  know- 
ing the  country  to  the  mountains,  having-  traveled  it  before. 
They  have  five  wagons,  one  cart,  eleven  horses,  twenty-four 
dxen.  twenty-two  cows,  three  bulk  and  seven  calves.  The  num- 
ber of  animals  in  the  camp  are  ninety-six  horses,  fifty-one 
mules,  ninety  oxen,  forty-three  cows,  nine  calves,  three  bulls, 
sixteen  chickens,  sixteen  dogs,  seventy-nine  Avagons  and  one 
cart. 

Brother  (  layton  put  up  a  signboard  at  the  ferry:  In- 
scription. "Winter  (Quarters,  561*4  miles."  Brother  6.  Pratt 
took  the  altitude  of  Fort  Lararnie  and  found  it  to  be  4090  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Fremont  makes  it  4470,  a  difference 
of  380  feet.  The  longitude  of  Fort  Laramie  is  104  degrees 
11  minutes  53  seconds. 

Saturday,  June  5th. — The -morning  was  pleasant  though 
somewhat  cloudy,  and  the  bugle  sounded  early  to  start,  but 
we  were  detained  until  8:30  on  account  of 'several  oxen  being 
missing.  After  traveling  a  little  over  four  miles  we  ascended 
a  steep  bluff,  where  the  road  runs  on  top  of  it  for  a  short  dis- 
tance in  a  winding  direction.  The  surface  in  some  places  is 
very  rough,  and  many  places  are  covered  with  ledges  of  rocks, 
which  ---hakes  our  wagons  very,  much.  In  descending  there  is 
a  short  turn  near  the  bottom,  where  Brother  Crow's  cart  turned 
over,  though  there  was  no  damage  done.  After  winding  our 
way  around  and  through  sand  and  over  rocks  we  came  to  a' 
very  larse  spring,  the  water  of  which  was  warm  and  soft. 

At  11  ::!.")  we  -topped  to  feed,  the  grass  being  very  short. 
We  had  come  six  and  one-half  miles.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  ahead  we  discovered  a  company  of  eleven  wagons  bound 
westward.  They  came  on  to  our  road  from  a  south  direction, 
where  the  road  forks.  One  runs  to  Fort  John  (*Laramie)  and 
the  other  that  we  came  on  runs  by  the  old  fort.  They  say  the 
road  they  came  on  is  ten  miles  to  the  spring,  and  the  one  we 
came  on  is  fourteen  and  one-quarter  miles.  While  we  were 
stopped  we  had  a  fine  shower.  At  1:40  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  The  latitude  of  the  warm  spring  is  42  degrees  15  min- 
utes 06  seconds. 

After  traveling  a  mile  we  turned  in  a  narrow  pass  to  the 
northwest  between  two  high  bluffs,  and  after  traveling  half 
a  mile  further  we  came  to  whore  the'  road  rises  a  very  high, 
steep  bluff,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  short  sudden  pitch,  and 
then  a  rugged  ascent  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  When  we  ar- 
rived at  the  top,  we  found  the  road  tolerably  good,  but  still 
rises  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  After  traveling  five  and  one- 
quarter  miles  we  descended  the  bluff,  the  road  being  sandy 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


though  pretty  good.  At  6:30  we  encamped  on  the  west  bank 
of  a  small  stream  and  near  a  spring  of  very  good  water,  having 
come  ten  and  one-half  miles. 

Brother  Clayton  put  up  a  guide  board  every  ten  miles. 
The  feed  is  very  good  here  and  there  is  plenty  of  wood.  The 
Oregon  company  is  encamped  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  back. 
Brother  Kimball  has  traveled  ahead  this  afternoon  and  picked 
out  this  camp  ground,  which  is  the  best  we  have  had  for  a  long 
time.  About  dark  it  rained,  accompanied  with  thunder  and 
lightning.  Tomorrow  is  set  apart  as  last  Sunday  was  for 
prayer  and  fasting.  It  is  reported  that  there  are  three  or  four 
companies  between  here  and  Fort  John  (*Laramie),  which  was 
formerly  called  Laramie.  The  camp  are  all  well  and  in  good 
spirits  and  the  Lord  continues  to  bless  us. 

Sunday,  June  6th. — This  morning  is  cool  and  cloudy  and 
looks  like  rain.  At  8  a.  m.  the  eleven  wagons  that  camped  back 
a  little  ways  passed  us  again.  At  9  o'clock  the  brethren  as- 
sembled for  prayer  meeting,  and  we  had  a  very  good  meeting. 
Brothers  E.  Snow,  Little  and  others  occupied  the  time.  The 
meeting  was  dismissed  a  little  before  11  a.  m.  Three  or  four 
men  came  to  camp  on  horseback  and  reported  that  their  com- 
pany was  a  short  distance  back.  They  had  encamped  at  the 
warm  springs  last  night. 

At  11 :40  the  brethren  assembled  for  preaching,  when  it 
commenced  raining  very  heavy,  accompanied  with  lightning 
and  thunder.  While  it  was  raining  the  Oregon  company  came 
up,  and  they  had  nineteen  wagons  and  two  carriages.  They 
have  a  guide,  who  says  he  shall  find  water  six  miles  ahead 
and  no  more  for  fifteen  miles.  Between  12  and  1  o'clock  the 
weather  cleared  off,  and  it  was  thought  best  to  travel  six 
miles  this  afternoon,  in  order  to  shorten  our  day's  travel  to- 
morrow, and  at  2:30  we  moved  forward,  crossing  the  stream 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  ahead.  Brother  Young,  Kimball  and 
Woodruff  went  ahead  to  look  for  a  camp  ground.  We  came 
a  little  over  four  miles  to  where  the  company  of  seventeen 
Avagons  were  encamped,  south  of  the  road,  and  at  5:30  we  en- 
camped, having  come  five  miles.  The  feed  is  very  good  and  a 
stream  of  water  is  running  near  the  camp  and  there  is  wood  in 
plenty.  The  company  of  eleven  wagons  are  encamped  a  short 
distance  ahead  of  us,  but,  notwithstanding,  we  have  much  the 
best  camping1  ground.  Brother  Frost  put  up  his  forge  and  done 
some  blacksmithing.  There  is  a  strong  wind  blowing  from  the 
west. 

Monday,  June  7th. — The  morning  was  fine  and  we  took 
our  horses  out  early,  about  half  a  mile  east,  where  the  feed 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 


67 


was  very  guod.  At  ()  :30  the  Oregon  company  passed  us  and 
at  7:10  we  again  commenced  our  journey.  At  11  o'clock  we 
halted  to  feed  on  the  west  bank  of  a  small  stream,  the  grass 
being  short.  We  had  come  seven  and  three-quarters  miles  in 
a  course  north  northwest,  and  the  road  was  even  and  good 
traveling.  Soon  after  we  halted  another  Oregon  company  of 
thirteen  wagons  passed  us.  They  say  they  are  from  Andrew 
County.  ^Missouri.  At  12:40  we  proceeded  onward  and  after 
tvaveling1  a  short  distance  we  came  to  a  hill,  which  was  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  bottom  to  the  top,  the  ascent  being 
gradual. 


Top   o*   the   Hookies   Just    Below    the    Sky. 

From  the  top  of  this  hill,  we  had  a  very  loleasant  view 
of  the  surrounding  country,  the  scenery  being  truly  romantic. 
The  country  is  very  much  broken,  with  a  forest  of  pine  cov- 
ering the  surface.  From  this  hill  we  have  a  fine  view  of 
Limavama  Peak,  and  there  appears  to  be  snow  on  the  top  of 
it.  At  3:30  we  arrived  at  Horse  Shoe  Creek  and  formed  our 
encampment  in  the  center  of  a  grove  of  ash  and  cottonwood, 
having  traveled  five  and  one-quarter  miles  over  a  crooked  road, 
and  during  the  day  thirteen  miles.  We  have  the  best  feed  we 
have  had  since  we  left  Winter  Quarters,  and  the  most  pleasant 
camp  ground.  There  is  a  beautiful  large  spring  of  cold  water 
here  also. 

Brother  Kimball  picked  out  this  camp  ground  and  found 
the  spring  and  called  it  Heber's  Spring.  The  creek  is  also 
clear  and  is  said  to  have  trout  in  it.  There  is  an  abundance 
of  wild  mint  and  sage  growing  here.  Just  before  wye  stopped  a 
very  heavy  thunder  shower  blew  up,  and  while  we  were  form- 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


ing  our  encampment  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  ac- 
companied with  thunder  and  lightning,  which  lasted  a  little 
over  an  hour.  The  hunters  killed  a  deer  and  an  antelope  this 
afternoon.  The  evening  is  very  cool. 

Tuesday,  June  8th. — The  morning  was  fine,  though  it  con- 
tinues cool.  At  7:30  a.  m.  we  started  on  our  journey,  crossing 
the  creek,  which  is  about  a  rod  wide,  and  we  traveled  two 
and  one-half  miles  winding  around  the  high  bluffs  and  then 
began  to  ascend  them.  This  is  the  worst  bluff  we  have  had  to 
ascend  since  we  started.  It  is  nearly  a  half  mile,  and  three 
very  steep  pitches  to  go  up,  and  most  of  the  teams  had  to 
double.  From  the  top  of  this  hill  we  saw  a  buffalo  south  of 
us,  which  is  the  first  we  have  seen  since  the  21st  of  May.  Two 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  foot  of  this  bluff  we  passed  over  a 
small  creek,  nearly  dry,  and  then  ascended  another  high  bluff. 

At  11 :45  we  halted  for  noon  near  a  small  creek,  with  very 
little  water  in  it.  We  came  six  and  three-quarters  miles  this 
forenoon.  One  of  Brother  Crow's  daughters  got  run  over  by 
one  of  their  wagons,  the  wheel  passing  over  the  leg,  but  there 
was  no  bones  broken.  At  1 :40  we  proceeded  on  our  journey 
and  after  traveling  a  mile  and  a  half  we  crossed  a  small  creek, 
and  again  ascended  a  high  bluff.  This  afternoon  there  was  a 
strong  wind  from  the  west,  and  it  was  very  cold.  The  country 
is  very  much  broken  and  our  road  is  very  crooked  and  tending 
to  the  north.  After  traveling  five  miles  we  began  to  descend 
gradually,  and  at  0:10  we  crossed  a  stream  about  forty  feet 
wide  and  about  two  feet  deep,  the  current  being  very  swift. 
It  is  called  on  Fremont's  map  Fabant  river.  We  traveled  this 
afternoon  eight  and  three-quarters  miles,  mid  during  the  day 
fifteen  and  one-half  miles.  The  evening-  is  cold  and  has  the 
appearance  of  rain. 

The  hunters  killed  a  deer  and  an  antelope.  0.  P.  Rockwell 
says  he  has  been  to  the  Platte  river,  and  it  is  about  four  miles 
from  here.  Soon  after  we  stopped  tln*ee  traders  came  into  the 
camp.  They  were  part  of  the  company  that  lost  their  cattle 
in  the  snowstorm  on  the  Sweet  Water. 

Wednesday,  June  9th. — The  morning  was  very  pleasant, 
and  the  feed  beina1  scarce,  it  was  thought  be-^t  to  -start  before 
breakfast,  and  at  4:45  we  moved  onward.  At  ~>:4.~>  \\  e  halted 
for  breakfast  near  the  traders'  camp,  having  come  one  and  one- 
quarter  miles.  It  was  thought  best  to  send  a  small  companv 
ahead  .to  build  a  raft,  as  the  traders  say  it  is  about  seventy 
miles  to  Avhere  we  cross  the  Platte.  They  lei't  some  hides  at 
the  crossing,  that  they  used  on  a  wagon  box,  which  answered 


PIOXEER.IXG    THE    WEST 69 

for  a  ferry  boat.     They  told  Brother  Crow  that  he  might  have 
them,  if  he  could  get  there  before  the  Oregon  company. 

There  was  nineteen  of  the  best  teams  with  about  forty- 
Bine  men  sent  ahead ;  five  wagons  from  the  first  division  and 
fourteen  from  the  second.  TTiey  started  about  half  an  hour 
before  we  did.  About  7:45  we  proceeded  onward,  and  soon 
after  we  started  we  came  to  a  gully,  which  was  very  difficult 
to  cross.  Four  men  on  their  work  horses  and  mules  passed 
us.  They  said  they  were  from  Pueblo  and  were  going  to  Green 
River.  We  came  three  and  one-quarter  miles  and  crossed  a 
stream  about  ten  feet  wide,  the  banks  of  which,  on  either  side, 
were  very  steep.  Some  of  the  teams  required  help. 

This  forenoon  the  soil  we  have  passed  over  looked  red  as  ,\. 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  most  of  the  rocks  and  bluffs 
were  of  the  same  color.  President  Young  and  Kimball  saw  a 
large  toad  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  camp^  that  had 
a  tail  and  horns,  though  it  did  not  jump  like  a  toad,  but  crawled 
like  a  mouse.  At  12:40  we  halted  for  .noon,  having  come  ten 
miles  since  breakfast.  Feed  is  scarce  and  there  is  very  little 
water.  Our  road  has  be'en  crooked,  and  hilly,  and  mostly 
rocky.  The  ground  is  literally  covered  with  large  crickets. 
Xf  2:30  we  were  on  the  move  again.  The  road  has  been  much 
better  this  afternoon.  At  G  :15  we  encamped  on  a  stream  about 
a  rod  wide,  two  feet  deep,  with  a  very  swift  current.  We  have 
traveled  eight  miles  this  afternoon,  and  during  the  day  nineteen 
and  on-quarter  miles.  The  feed  is  good.  A  number  of  antelope 
have  been  killed  today.  The  evening  was  fine  and  pleasant. 

Thursday,  June  10th. — The  morning  was  calm  and  very 
pleasant.  At  7:30  we  moved  on  and  came  four  and  one-half 
miles  and  crossed  a  small  stream,  passed  on  a  little  farther 
and  crossed  another  creek  some  larger.  At  11:20  we  halted  for 
noon  on  the  ea*t  side  of  a  stream  about  thirty  feet  wide  and 
tolerably  deep  with  a  rapid  current,  having  come  eight  and 
three-quarter  miles.  We  had  several  lonsr  steep  bluffs  to  ascend 
and  descend,  and  it  was  verv  difficult  to  cross  some  of  the 
creeks  without  help.  Wo  ~aw  one  of  the  Oregon  companies  a 
few  miles  ahead  of  us.  Our  road  has  been  crooked  and  mo^tlv 
winding  northward.  The  creek  where  we  camped  last  night 
is  called  La  Pine.  About  a  mile  from  where  the  road  crossed 
it.  it  runs  through  a  tunnel  from  ten  to  twenty  rods  under  the 
high  bluffs.  The  tunnel  is  high  enough  for  a  man  to  stand 
upright  in  it,  and  the  light  can  be  seen  through  from  the  other 
side. 

At  1 :4">  we  continued  our  journey,  with  more  even  ground 
and  good  traveling.  This  afternoon  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
Platte  river.  We  left  it  last  Saturday  and  since  then  we  have 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


been  winding  through  valleys  and  over  bluffs  all  the  way  to 
here.  As  we  near  the  river  the  road  is  more  level,  but  sandy. 
At  5  :45  we  crossed  a  stream  about  thirty  feet  wide  and  two 
^eet  deep,  the  current  being  swift  and  the  water  clear,  with 
plenty  of  timber  on  its  banks,  and  the  feed  very  good.  We 
encamped  on  its  west  bank,  near  a  grove  of  large  timber.  We 
traveled  nine  miles  this  afternoon,  and  during  the  day  seven- 
teen and  three-quarters  miles. 

In  this  stream  there  is  plenty  of  fish.  Brother  Clayton 
caught  twenty-four  with  a  hook  and  line,  that  wrould  weigh 
sixteen  pounds,  all  herring.  Some  of  the  brethren  caught  a 
few  catfish.  Some  of  the  camp  found  a  bed  of  stone  coal  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  stream.  The  hunters  killed  a  number 
of  antelope  this  afternoon.  The  evening  was  warm  and  pleas- 
ant. I  noticed  that  Brother  Ellsworth  brought  an  antelope  into 
camp  this  evening  and  it  was  cut  up  and  Divided  among 
their  own  Ten  by  Brother  Rockwood.  A  few  days  since  Brother 
Rockwood  gave  Brother  Crow  a  lecture  for  not  dividing  an 
antelope  among  the  camp,  when  Brother  Crow's  companions 
are  short  of  provisions,  and  only  have  five  ounces  to  a  person 
per  day.  If  this  is  consistency  I  don  't  know  what  consistency  is. 

Friday,  June  llth.  —  The  morning  was  very  pleasant.  I 
stood  guard  the  later  part  of  the  night,  in  the  place  of  some 
of  the  brethren  that  have  gone  ahead.  About  3  o'clock  this 
morning  I  commenced  cleaning  the  fish  Brother  Clayton  caught. 
I  fried  them  and  we  had  a  firstrate  breakfast.  This  is  the  first 
place  I  have  seen  since  we  left  Winter  Quarters,  where  I  should 
like  to  live.  The  land  is  good  and  plenty  of  timber  and  the 
warbling  of  the  birds  make  it  very  pleasant.  At  7:35  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey,  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  which  ap- 
pears wider  here  than  at  Laramie.  We  came  four  and  one- 
half  miles  and  Brother  Clayton  put  up  a  guideboard,  "100  miles 
from  Laramie,"  which  we  came  in  a  week  lacking  two  and 
one-quarter  hours.  At  11:50  we  halted  for  noon  in  a  grove, 
where  the  feed  is  very  good. 

The  road  this  forenoon  was  generally  level  and  sandy,  but 
there  was  very  little  grass.  We  have  traveled  nine  and  one- 
half  miles  this  forenoon.  At  2  o'clock  we  started  again,  and 
after  traveling  one  mile  we  crossed  a  very  crooked,  muddy 
stream  about  twelve  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  came  five  and 
three-quarters  miles  and  crossed  another  creek.  At  5:30  we 
came  to  a  halt,  and  we  saw  a  number  of  wagons  encamped 
about  a  mile  ahead.  After  waiting  about  half  an  hour.  Brother 
Kimball,  who  was  ahead,  returned  and  reported  that  there  was 
no  feed  ahead  for  three  miles. 


72 P  I  O  X  E  E  R I  N  G    THE    W  E  S  T 

The  company  ahead  is  one  of  the  Oregon  camps.  They  are 
making  a  raft  to  cross  here.  They  say  the  regular  crossing 
place  is  twelve  miles  ahead.  We  turned  off  to  the  river  about 
a  half  mile  from  the  road  near  a  grove,  the  feed  being  tolerably 
good.  We  encamped  about  6  o'clock,  having  come  six  and 
three-quarters  miles,  and  seventeen  during  the  day.  Brother 
Kimball  reports  that  he  and  some  of  the  brethren  tried  to  find 
a  fording  place  to  cross  the  river,  but  were  unable  to  do  so. 
Some  places  the  water  was  deep  enough  to  swim  their  horses. 
The  brethren  killed  three  antelope  today. 

Saturday,  June  12th. — The  morning  was  very  fine  with  a 
light  breeze  from  the  east.  Brother  Markham  has  learned,  this 
morning,  that  Obediah  Jennings  \vas  the  principal  in  killing 
Bowman  in  Missouri.  Bowman  \vas  one  of  the  guard  of  Joseph 
and  Hvrivm  Sifutli  and  the  others  that  got  awav  when  prison- 
ers in  Missouri.  The  mob  suspected  him,  and  they  rode  him  on 
a  bar  of  iron  until  they  killed  him. 

At  8:15  we  started  on  our  journey  and  came  one  and  one- 
half  miles,  where  we  crossed  a  deep  ravine  with  a  steep  bank 
that  was  very  difficult  to  ascend.  We  came  one  and  three- 
quarters  miles  and  crossed  a  creek  about  two  feet  wide  on  a 
bridge,  which  the  brothren  had  made.  One  mile  from  this  we 
crossed  another  creek  about  five  feet  wide  and  one  and  one-half 
feet  deep.  At  11  :45  we  halted  for  noon,  having  come  seven  and 
one-quarter  miles,  over  a  sandy,  barren  prairie.  Here  the  breth- 
ren tried  to  find  a  fording  place.  They  succeeded  in  riding 
across  the  river,  but  it  was  considered  unsafe  to  cross  with  our 
wagons,  as  the  current  runs  very  swift.  The  brethren  turned 
out  this  noon  to  di'r  down  the  banks  of  a  deep  ravine,  and  made 
it  passable  for  wagons  in  a  short  time. 

At  2:30  w~e  again  started,  came  about  three  and  one-quarter 
miles  and  crossed  a  creek  about  five  feet  wide.  At  4:30  we 
encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  having  traveled  about  six 
miles  this  afternoon,  and  during'  the  day  eleven  and  one-quarter 
miles.  Our  camp  is  about  half  a  mile  below  the  camp  of  the 
brethren  who  went  ahead.  They  arrived  here  yesterday  about 
noon,  and  -two  «.f  the  Missouri  companies  arrived  soon  after. 
The  brethren  made  a  contract  with  them  to  ferry  our  wagons 
over  for  $1.50  each,  and  take  their  pav  in  flour  at  $2.50  ner 
hundred.  Thev.  crossed  the  last  of  them  this  eveninu.  The  bill 
amounted  to  $34.  Thev  received  their  pav  mostly  in  flour,  but 
some  little  in  meal  and  bacon.  Brother  Badger  traded  a  wagon 
with  one  of  them.  He  got  a  horse  and  100  pounds  of  flour, 
twenty-eight  pounds  of  bacon,  and  some  crackers  to  boot.  The 
horse  and  provisions  were  worth  as  much  as  his  wagon. 


P  I  0  X  E  E  R  I  X  G     THE     WES  T 73 

Since  the  brethren  arrived  here,  they  have  killed  'three 
buffalo?,  one  grizzly  bear,  three  cubs  and  two  antelope.  The 
buffalos  are  very  fat  and  the  brethren  say  they  are  very 
plenty  back  of  the  hills.  Brother  J.  Redding-  made  H.  C.  Kim- 
ball  a  present  of  a  large  cake  of  tallow,  and  dried  some  beef 
for  the  benefit  of  the  camp.  Tunis  Rappleyee  and  Artemus 
Johnson  are  1111381110-  this  evening.  A  company  was  sent  out 
in  search  of  them.  Brother  Rappleyee  returned  about  11  o'clock 
at  night.  He  said  that  he  started  to  go  up  to  the  mountains 
to  get  some  snow,  about  5  o'clock,  thinking  he  would  be  back 
before  dark,  but  he  found  the  hills  to  he  eight  or  ten  miles  off. 
Johnson  was  found  by  the  company.  He  \\ent  out  hunting  aud 
got  lost.  They  returned  still  later. 

Sunday,  June  13th. — The  morning  was  fine  and  pleasant. 
At  9  o'clock  the  brethren  assembled  for  meeting.  Some  of  the 
brethren  freed  their  minds,  and  Brother  Kiuiball  arose  and 
addressed  them,  exhorting  them  to  be  watchful  and.  humble, 
and  remember  their  covenants,  and  above  all  things  to  avoid 
everything'  that  would  tend  to  a  division.  He  gave  some  very 
good  instruction  and  council.  Brother  Pratt  made  some  re- 
marks, followed  by  Brother  B.  Young  and  others.  The  captains 
or  Tens  were  notified  to  meet  at  Brother  Young's  Avagon.  It 
was  agreed  to  take  the  wagons  over  on  rafts  and  the  provisions 
in  the  cutter. 

I  went  across  the  river  with  five  or  six  men  and  built  a 
raft,  while  some  of  the  brethren  went  up  to  the  mountain  to 
get  some  poles.  The  day  has  been  very  warm  and  more  like  a 
summer  day  than  any  we  have  had  since  we  left.  The  ground 
here  is  covered  with  crickets. 

Monday,  June  14th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  cool. 
The  first  division  commenced  ferrying  their  provisions  over 
the  river  in  the  cutter,  and  the  second  division  with  the  raft, 
hut  the  current  was  so  strong  it  was  not  safe  to  take  provisions 
over  on  the  raft,  and  we  only  took  two  loads.  The  second  di- 
vision then  stretched  a  rope  across  the  river  at  the  narrowest 
place,  and  lashed  two  wagons  together,  and  made  the  rope  fast 
to  them  to  float  them  across.  When  the  wheels  struck  the  sand 
on  the  other  side,  the  current  being  so  strong,  it  rolled  them 
one  over  the  other,  and  breaking  the  bows,  and  loosening 'the 
irons,  etc.,  to  the  amount  of  $30.  belonging  to  Brother  John 
Pack.  We  next  lashed  four  together,  abreast  and  dragged  them 
over  as  before,  with  poles  each  side  of  the  wagon,  and  then  long 
poles  to  reach  across  endways.  They  all  got  over  safe.  One 
of  the  poles  broke  and  let  the  upper  one  turn  on  its  side,  but 
there  was  no  damage  done. 


J74 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Not  having  poles  or  rope  enough  to  lash  them,  we  thought 
we  Avonld  try  one  wagon  alone.  Some  of  the  brethren  thought 
that  if  some  person  would  get  in  the  wagon  and  ride  on  the 
upper  side,  it  would  prevent  it  from  turning  over.  I  volunteered 
to  go  across  in  it.  Soon  after  we  pushed  off,  Brother  Gibbons 
jumped  in  the  river  and  caught  hold  of  the  end  of  the  wagon. 
When  we  got  out  about  the  middle  of  the  river,  the  wagon 
began  to  fill  with  water,  and  roll  from  one  side  to  the  other,. 
and  then  turn  over  on  the  side.  I  got  on  the  upper  side  and 
hung  on  for  a  short  time,  when  it  rolled  over  leaving  me  off. 
I  saw  that  I  was  in  danger  of  being  caught  in  the  Avheels  or 
the  bows,  and  I  swam  off,  but  one  of  the  wheels  struck  my  leg 
and  bruised  it  some.  I  struck  out  for  the  shore  Avith  my  cap 
in  one  hand.  The  wagon  rolled  over  a  number  of  times  and 
was  hauled  ashore.  It  received  no  damage,  except  the  bows 
were  broken.  We  then  thought  it  the  safest  way  to  take  the 
wagons  over  on  a  raft,  notwithstanding  it  is  very  slow,  and 
will  take  three  or  four  days. 

The  wind  blows  very  strong  from  the  soutlnvest,  which  is 
very  nearly  down  stream.  We  have  cattle  on  the  other  side 
to  tow  the  raft  up.  The  current  and  the  wind  being  against 
us,  we  have  to  tow  our  raft  up  about  one  mile  above,  where 
we  load  the  wagons.  At  3 :30  we  had  a  very  heavy  thunder 
storm,  the  rain  pouring  down  in  torrents,  accompanied  with 
hail,  and  the  wind  blew  a  perfect  gale.  After  the  storm  was 
over  we  continued  ferrying  the  \vagons  over.  The  river  is 
rising  very  fast.  After  toiling  all  day  nearly  up  to  our  armpits 
in  the  water,  we  got  over  eleven  wagons  in  the  afternoon,  mak- 
ing twenty-three  during  the  day. 

..  - 

Tuesday,  June  15th. — The  morning  was  fine  but  very 
windy,  and  we  continued  ferrying  over  our  wagons.  We  took 
Brother  George  Billing's  wagon  over  this  morning.  The  breth- 
ren have  built  two  more  rafts.  The  wind  continues  to  blow 
down  stream,  which  makes  it  very  hard  work  to  cross  with  the 
rafts.  This  afternoon  Brother  Crow's  company  commenced 
swimming  their  horses  over.  They  forgot  to  take  the  rope  off 
of  one  of  the  horses,  and  after  he  got  out  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  they  discovered  that  it  was  drowning.  They  pulled  to  him 
with  the  cutter  and  dragged  him  ashore,  but  he  was  dead.  They 
supposed  that  he  got  the  rope  around  his  legs  and  could  not 
swim.  It  was  concluded  today  to  leave  about  ten  of  th» 
brethren  here,  to  build  a  boat  and  keep  a  ferrv,  until  the  next 
company  comes  up.  Brother  Kimball  told  me  to  have  a  wagon 
and  six  mules  ready  to  start  early  in  the  morning  after  a  log 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 75 

to  make  a  canoe.  The  wind  continued  to  blow  nearly  all  day. 
We  succeeded  in  getting  twenty  wagons  over  today. 

Wednesday,  June  16th. — This  morning  was  fine,  with  a 
strong  A\ind  from  the  west.  I  got  Brother  Coitrin's  wagon 
and  Brother  OJleasou's  mules,  and  a  pair  of  mules  belonging  to 
Brother  Flako,  drove  by  a  colored  man,  and  a  pair  that  Brother 
Billings  drives,  and  delivered  them  to  these  who  were  going 
after  the  timber  for  the  boat.  The  first  division  sent  a  wagon. 
There  was  about  twenty  men  went,  principally  those  who  had 
their  wagons  across  the  river.  I  understand  there  is  a  contract 
made  to  ferry  over  a  company  of  wagons  at  the  same  rate  the 
others  ^ere  crossed. 

Two  men  came  up  from  a  small  company  below,  who  they 
say  belong  to  a  company  ahead.  They  stopped  at  Ash  Hollow 
in  consequence  of  some  of  them  being  sick.  They  also  wished 
to  be  ferried  over.  There  was  a  small  company  sent  up  the 
river  this  afternoon  to  get  out  timber  for  the  boat.  I  crossed 
the  river  this  forenoon  and  eat  dinner  with  Brother  Whipple. 
My  health  is  not  very  good,  having  worked  in  the  water  for  two 
days,  and  in  the  course  of  it  I  caught  cold,  and  have  pains  in 
my  bowels.  The  wind  blows  very  strong  this  afternoon  from 
the  west.  The  brethren  that  went  down  the  river,  returned 
this  evening,  and  brought  two  canoes  twenty-five  feet  long  and 
partly  finished. 

Thursday,  June  17th. — The  morning  was  windv  and  cold, 
and  all  hands  were  engaged  ferrying.  We  hauled  our  three 
wagons  down  to  the  river  and  unloaded  Brother  King's  wasron 
arm  lashed  the  wagons,  and  took  the  loading  over  in  the  cutter. 
We  took  a  part  of  the  loading  out  of  Brother  Kimballrs  wagon, 
and  took  it  over  on  the  large  raft,  Brother  Hansen  and  myself 
pulling  it  over.  The  wind  blowing  very  strong  down  stream 
made  it  very  difficult  to  cross.  President  Young  also  crossed 
his  wagon  this  forenoon. 

Early  this  morning  we  tried  to  swim  our  horses  across,  but 
the  water  being  so  rough  we  could  not  get  them  in.  Soon  after 
noon  we  got  the  last  of  our  wagons  over.  Two  of  the  Oregon 
companies  arrived,  and  the  brethren  made  preparations  to  cross 
them  at  .fl.50  per  wagon.  The  brethren  suffered  much  working 
in  the  water,  for  it  is  very  cold.  Our  wagons  formed  in  a  cir- 
cle, this  afternoon,  near  the  ferry.  We  got  our  horses  up  this 
afternoon  to  swim  them  across,  but  Brothers  Young  and  Kimball 
thought  it  was  too  cold,  and  the  wind  blowed  too  strong,  and 
they  told  us  to  leave  them  until  morning.  A  company  of  men 
are  working  at  the  canoes. 

Friday,  June  18th. — This  morning  was  calm  but  very  cold. 


_76 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

The  brethren  had  worked  all  night  and  ferried  over  one  com- 
pany of  ten  wagons  and  part  of  another.  They  paid  the  brethren 
$5.00  extra  for  working  in  the  night.  We  went  across  the  river 
early,  and  swam  our  horses  over.  The  camp  concluded  not  to 
start  today,  but  stop  and  help  to  finish  the  boat,  and  wait  for 
the  pay  we  were  to  get  for  ferrying  the  companies  over.  Brother 
Clayton  crossed  the  river  this  afternoon  and  went  back  to  the 
last  creek  we  crossed,  about  one  and  one-half  miles,  and  caught, 
sixty  fish  that  would  weight  about  half  a  pound  apiece. 

The  new  canoe  was  launched  this  afternoon,  and  the 
brethren  commenced  ferrying  over  the  company  of  Missourians. 
The  boat  would  carry  a  common  sized  wagon  and  its  load,  and 
it  works  very  well  considering  the  wood  is  green.  There  has 
been  a  small  company  of  the  brethren  appointed  to  remain  at 
this  place  until  the  next  company  of  Saints  comes  up,  and  then 
to  come  on  with  them.  They  are  to  take  charge  of  the  boat 
and  cross  all  wagons  they  can  until  the  brethren  arrive,  at  $1.50 
per  wagon.  About  dark  this  evening  the  Twelve  and  those  who 
were  appointed  to  remain,  went  off  a  little  ways  from  the  camp 
to  council.  The  names  of  those  who  were  to  stop  were  read 
over  as  follows : 

Thomas  Grover,  John  S.  Higbee,  Luke  S.  Johnson,  Appleton 
M.  Harmon,  Edmund  Ellsworth,  Francis  M.  Pomeroy,  William 
Empey,  James  Davenport  and  Benjamin  F.  Stewart.  Thomas 
Grover  was  appointed  their  captain.  The  President  then  re- 
ferred to  Eric  Glines,  who  wanted  to  stay,  but  the  President 
said  he  had  no  council  for  him  to  stay,  but  he  might  do  as  he- 
pleased.  Some  explanation  followed  by  Glines,  but  the  unani- 
mous feelings  of  the  brethren  were  for  Glines  to  go  on.  The 
President  preached  a  short  sermon  for  the  benefit  of  the  young- 
Elders.  He  represented  them  as  eternally  grasping  after  some- 
thing ahead  of  them,  which  belonged  to  others,  instead  of  seek- 
ing to  bring  up  those  Avho  were  behind  them.  He  said  the  way 
for  the  young  Elders  to  enlarge  their  dominions  and  to  get 
power,  is  to  go  to  the  world  and  preach  the  gospel,  and  then 
they  can  get  a  train  and  bring  it  up  to  the  house  of  the  Lord 
with  them,  etc. 

The  letter  of  instructions  was  then  read  and  approved  by 
the  brethren.  The  council  was  then  dismissed.  This  evening 
Brother  Rockwood  divided  some  of  the  provisions  which  was 
realized  for  ferrying,  among  some  of  the  Tens.  Brother  Kimball 
let  the  brethren  have  a  coil  of  rope  to  use  on  the  boat,  worth 
about  $15.  He  got  263  pounds  of  flour,  100  pounds  of  meal  and 
twenty-t*vp,n  pounds  of  soap  toward  the  pay.  There  has  been 
provisions  enough  received  for  ferrying  to  last  this  camp  for- 


-.PIONEERING     THE    WEST 77 

about  twenty-three  days,  which  is  a  great  blessing,  which  we 
should  all  be  thankful  to  the  Lord  for.  At  the  rate  they  sell 
provisions  at  Fort  Laramie,  what  we  received  would  cost  about 
$400.  which  was  earned  in  about  a  week,  besides  ferrying  our 
OAYM  wagons  over. 

Satur.day,  June  19th. — The  morning  was  fine  but  cool,  and 
at  ~:50  a.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  all  enjoying  good 
health.  The  first  six  miles  Ave  traveled  about  a  west  course, 
over  several  high  bluffs,  where  the  road  turns  to  the  south  and 
rises  a  high  bluff  about  a  mile  long.  The  whole  face  of  the 
country  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend,  appears  to  be  barren  and 
very  much  broken.  The  descent  on  the  south  side  of  the  bluff 
was  crooked  and  uneven.  At  1  o'clock  we  halted  for  noon  on 
a  spot  of  good  grass,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  a  good 
spring,  Avhich  is  the  first  water  we  have  come  to  since  AVC  left 
the  ferry,  which  is  about  eleven  and  one-quarter  miles.  There 
is  no  timber  nearer  than  the  bluff's,  which  is  about  tAVo  miles. 
The  Red  Buttes  are  nearly  opposite  this  place  in  a  southeast 
direction.  » 

After  stopping-  about  an  hour  it  Avas  thought  best  to  move 
on  to  the  spring.  We  found  it  to  be  a  small  stream  of  water 
rising  out  of  the  quick  sand.  About  twelve  miles  from  the  ferry 
there  is  a  lake,  supposed  to  be  supplied  by  the  spring.  We 
could  see  the  Avater  boiling  out  of  the  mud  in  several  places. 
The  gra^s  on  the  banks  of  this  lake  is  very  good.  After  water- 
ing our  teams  Ave  proceeded  on  our  journey,  at  2  :50  p.  m.<  bearing 
a  southAvest  course  over  a  rolling  prairie.  About  eight  miles 
from  the  spring  there  is  a  steep  descent  from  a  bluff,  and  at 
the  foot  there  is  a  ridge  of  sharp-pointed  rocks,  running'  parallel 
Avith  the  road  for  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  leaving  only  a 
narrow  space  for  the  wagons  to  pass  and  the  road  is  A-ery  rough. 

At  7:40  we  encamped  on  a  small  spot,  surrounded  by  high 
bluffs,  having  traA'eled  ten  and  one-quarter  miles  and  during  the 
day  tAventy-one  and  one-half  miles.  Our  camp  ground  this 
evening  is  the  poorest  Ave  have  had  for  some  time;  A'ery  little 
grass  and  no  Avood  and  bad  Avater.  The  country  is  sandy  and 
barren,  very  little  vegetation  growing  here.  There  is  plenty  of 
wild  sage,  and  several  low  marshes  near  our  camp  ground,  where 
our  cattle  get  mired.  0.  P.  Rockwell  came  into  camp  and  re- 
ported that  he  had  a  fat  buffalo  about  tAvo  miles  from  the 
camp.  A  team  Avas  sent  out  to  bring  it  in,  Avhich  did  not  return 
for  some  time  after  dark.  Myers  killed  tAvo  buffaloes  and  took 
the  talloAv  and  tongues,  and  left  the  meat  to  rot  on  the  prairie. 
J.  Norton  and  A.  Gibbons  left  the  camp  at  the  springs  and 
went  out  hunting,  expecting  that  Ave  Avould  remain  there  until 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 79_ 

Monday.  Gibbons  lias  not  been  heard  from  since.  Norton 
has  returned  and  reported  that  he  had  killed  a  buffalo  back 
near  the  spring's. 

Sunday,  June  20th. — The  morning  was  fine.  We  found  two 
oxen  almost  buried  in  the  mud.  At  5:15  we  left  this  miserable 
place.  The  first  mile  was  very  bad  traveling',  there  being-  several 
steep  pitches  to  pass  over.  A  number  of  the  brethren  went 
ahead  with  picks  and  spades  to  improve  the  road.  We  traveled 
three  and  three-quarters  miles  and  halted  at  7  a.  m.  for  break- 
fast near  a  small  stream  of  clear  spring  water.  The  feed  is 
good  but  there  is  no  wood.  Brother  Kimball  and  Benson  statft 
that,  when  they  were  riding  ahead  last  evening  to  find  a  camp 
ground,  they  saw  six  men  suddenly  spring  up  out  of  the  grass, 
with  blankets,  that  looked  like  Indians.  They  turned  their 
horses  and  rode  in  a  parallel  direction  to  the  road.  The  brethren 
also  kept  on  their  course.  After  going  a  short  distance  one  of 
the  supposed  Indians  left  the  rest  and  rode  toward  the  brethren 
and  motioned  with  his  hand  for  them  to  go  back.  They  went, 
on  and  paid  no  regard  to  him.  When  he  discovered  that  hp 
could  not  bluff  them  off,  he  turned  his  horse  and  run  for  th« 
others,  and  all  put  spurs  to  their  horses  and  galloped  off.  Tb^ 
soon  descended  a  ridge  and  were  soon  out  of  sight.  Brothe^ 
Kimball  and  Benson  run  their  horses  to  the  top  of  the  ridp'0 
and  discovered  a  camp  about  a  mile  off.  The  brethren  were 
satisfied  that  those  Indians  were  Missourians.  and  that  they  had 
taken  this  plan  to  keep  us  back  from  this  camp  ground.  It  is 
considered  an  old  Missouri  trick  and  an  insult  to  our  camp, 
and  if  they  undertake  to  play  Indian  games,  they  might  meet 
with  Indian  treatment. 

Their  camp  left  here  a  little  before  we  arrived  this  morning. 
It  is  President  Young's  intention  to  press  on  a  little  faster,  arid 
crowd  them  up,  to  see  how  they  will  like  it.  We  have  learned 
from  one  of  the  emigrants  in  the  rear  that  Andrew  Gibbons 
staid  with  them  last  night,  and  that  when  he  arrived  at  the 
springs  he  found  a  Missouri  company  there  and  us  gone.  He 
told  them  where  the  buffalo  was  and  they  went  and  got  it.  At 
0:15  we  proceeded  on  our  journev,  and  after  traveling  three 
miles  we  arrived  at  the  Willow  Springs  and  halted  a  little  while 
to  water.  The  spring  is  about  two  feet  wide  and  the  water 
about  ten  inches  deep;  clear,  and  as  cold  as  ice.  The  grass 
is  very  good  here  and  it  is  a  very  good  camp  ground.  About  a 
nuarter  of  a  mile  bevond  the  spring  we  ascend  a  hill,  which  is 
nbout  one  mile  from  the  foot  to  the  top  of  it,  and  the  ascent 
very  steep. 

From  the  top  of  the  hill  snow  can  be  seen  on  the  top  of 


_SO PIONEER.  I  XG    THE    WEST 

the  mountains  a  long  distance  off.  The  Red  Buttes  appear  only 
a  few  miles  distant.  Three-quarters  of  a  mile  further  we  found 
good  feed,  but  no  wood  or  water.  We  traveled  one  and  one-quar- 
ter miles  and  came  to  a  heavy  slough.  About  a  mile  from  this 
place  Ave  ascended  a  very  steep  bluff,  and  at  2:45  we  stopped 
to  feed  in  a  ravine,  where  the  grass  is  very  good  and  a  good 
stream  of  water  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  road, 
but  there  is  no  wood.  We  have  traveled  nine  miles  this  fore- 
noon over  a  barren,  sandy  country,  there  being  no  feed  only 
in  spots  as  above  mentioned.  At  5  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  and  after  traveling  two  and  one-half  miles  we  descended 
to  the  bottom  land  again,  and  saw  a  small  stream  a  little  to  the 
left  of  the  road,  where  there  is  plenty  of  feed. 

We  crossed  a  stream  one  and  three-quarters  miles  further, 
of  clear  water  about  six  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  but  there 
is  neither  grass  nor  timber  on  its  banks.  After  traveling  seven 
miles  this  afternoon  AVC  turned  off  of  the  road  to  the  left,  and 
at  8:20  we  found  our  camp  ground,  as  selected  by  Brother  Kiiu- 
ball,  on  a  ridge  near  the  above  mentioned  creek,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  road.  Our  travel  this  afternoon  was  seven 
and  one-quarter  miles,  exclusive  of  turning  off  from  the  road, 
and  during  the  clay  twenty  miles.  There  is  no  wood  and  we  h;.\e 
to  use  the  sage  roots  for  cooking,  as  it  grows  wild  in  abundance 
in  this  region.  Brothers  Woodruff  and  J.  Brown  went  ahead 
this  morning  and  have  not  been  seen  or  heard  of  since. 

Monday,  June  21st. — The  morning  was  very  fine  and  warm, 
and  at  8:35  a.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After  traveling- 
three  and  one-quarter  miles  we  came  to  a  bed  of  saleratus, 
which  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  across,  and  on  which  were  several 
lakes  of  salt  water.  This  place  looks  swampy  and  smells  bad. 
Lorenzo  Young  gathered  a  pailful  in  a  short  time,  and  tested  its 
qualities,  which  he  considers  very  good.  It  is  reported  by  trav- 
elers that  there  is  poison  springs  in  this  region,  but  we  have' 
not  yet  seen  any.  It  is  probably  the  brakisli  water,  which 
tastes  some  of  saleratus,  that  make  them  call  it  poison  springs. 
We  passed  alony  a  little  further  and  saw  two  more  lakes  of  the 
same  nature,  with  the  banks  mostly  white  with  saleratus.  At 
12  o'clock  we  arrived  on  the  bank  of  the  Sweet  Water,  having 
come  nine  and  one-half  miles  over  a  very  sandy  road,  destitute 
of  wood,  water  and  feed.  The  distance  from  the  upper  ferry 
on  the  Platte  is  forty-nine  miles.  There  has  formerly  been  a 
ford  here,  but  lately  it  has  been  crossed  about  a  mile  higher  up. 
The  river  is  probably  about  seven  or  eight  rods  wide  and  about 
three  feet  deep  at  the  fording  place,  but  much  deeper  in  other 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 81 

places.    The  current  runs  very  swift  and  the  water  tastes  good, 
but  is  some  muddy. 

On  the  river  there  is  plenty  of  good  grass,  but  no  wood. 
There  is  plenty  of  wild  sage,  which  answers  for  fuel.  Brother 
G.  Billings  and  Baird  went  back  about  a  half  mile  and  got  a 
bucket  of  the  saleratus.  Brother  Kimball  was  ahead  looking 
out  a  Camp  ground  and  he  and  Brother  Richards  were  close  to 
Independence  Rock,  about  a  half  mile  ahead,  when  they  waved 
their  hats  for  us  to  come  on  there,  but  we  did  not  see  them. 
The  day  has  been  very  hot  and  no  wind,  which  makes  it  very 
unpleasant  traveling.  Here  Brothers  Woodruff  and  Brown  passed 
the  camp.  They  had  passed  the  night  with  one  of  the  Oregon 
companies. 

-  There  are  many  huge  hills  or  ridges  and  masses  of  .granite 
rock  in  this  neighborhood,  all  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  pre- 
senting a  very  wild  and  desolate  as  well  as  romantic  appear- 
ance. The  brethren  killed  two  snakes  here.  Some  of  the  brth- 
ren  went  ahead  to  view  Independence  Rock,  which  is  about  a  half 
mile  west  of  where  we  are  encamped.  The  river  runs  within 
about  three  rods  of  the  rock  and  runs  about  a  west  course,  while 
the  rock  runs  a  northwest  direction.  It  is  a  barren  mass-of  ba^e 
granite,  more  so  than  any  others  in  this  region,  and  is  probably 
400  yards  long  and  80  yards  wide,  and  about  100  yards  perpen- 
dicular height,  as  near  as  Brother  Clayton  could  judge.  The 
ascent  is  Arery  difficult  all  around,  but  the  southwest  corner  ap- 
pears to  be  the  easiest  to  ascend.  There  are  hundreds  of  persons 
who  have  visited  it  and  painted  their  names  there  with  different 
colored  paint,  both  male  and  female. 

At  3  p.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  Brother  Clayton 
put  up  a  guide  board  opposite  the  rock  with  the  following  in- 
scription:  "To  Fort  John,  175%  miles.  Pioneers,  July  21st, 
1847,  W.  R."  Dr.  Richards  requests  that  his  brand  be  put  on 
all  the  signboards  that  the  Saints  might  know  them,  as  his 
brand  is  generally  known  by  the  Church.  After  traveling  one 
mile  beyond  the  rock  we  crossed  the  river,  all  the  wagons  cross- 
ing without  difficulty.  We  then  continued  a  southwest  course 
and  traveled  four  and  one-half  miles  when  we  were  opposite  to 
the  Devil's  Gate,  which  is  a  little  west  of  the  road.  We  traveled 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  further,  where  the  road  passes  between  two 
high  ridges  of  granite  rocks,  leaving  a  surface  of  about  two 
rods  of  level  ground  on  each  side  of  the  road.  The  road  then 
bends  to  the  west,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  further  we  passed 
over  a  small  creek  about  two  feet  wide,  but  very  bad  to  cross, 
?.t  being  deep  and  muddy. 

We  proceeded  on  a  short  distance  and  found  our  encamp- 


82 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


ment  at  6:35  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  having  traveled  seven 
and  three-quarters  miles  this  afternoon  and  during  the  day  fif- 
teen and  one-quarter  miles.  The  feed  is  very  good  here,  but  wood 
is  scare.  I  went  to  view  the  Devil's  Gate,  and  while  ascending 
the  rocks  I  fell  in  with  some  of  the  brethren,  and  we  went  up  in 
company.  Where  we  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  east  rock  we 
found  it  perpendicular.  The  river  runs  between  two  high  rocky 
ridges,  which  were  measured  by  Brother  Pratt  and  found  to  be 


Ready   to   Move   From    Camp    on   Platte   River. 

309  feet  6y%  inches  high  and  about  200  yards  long.  The  river 
has  a  channel  of  about  three  rods  in  width  through  the  pass, 
which  increases  its  swiftness,  and  it  dashes  furiously  against  the 
huge  fragments  of  rocks,  which  has  fell  from  the  mountains, 
and  the  roaring  can  be  heard  a  long  distance.  It  has  truly  a 
romantic  appearance,  and  the  view  over  the  surrounding  country 
is  very  sublime.  The  Sweet  Water  mountains  shoAv  high  and 
appear  spotted  with  snow.  Mountains  can  be  seen  from  twenty 
to  thirty  miles  distant.  West  of  us,  covered  with  snow,  the 
high  barren  rocky  ridges  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  seem 
to  continue  for  many  miles. 

Tuesday,  June  22nd. — The  morning  was  fine,  and  at  7:20 
we  continued  our  journey,  and  when  about  200  yards  from  where 
we  camped  we  crossed  a  very  crooked  creek,  about  six  feet 
wide,  descending  from  the  southwest.  After  traveling  about 
three  miles  over  a  very  heavy  sandy  road,  we  crossed  another 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 83 

creek,  about  two  feet  wide.  Brother  Lorenzo  Young  broke  an 
axletree,  which  detained  him  for  some  time.  One  of  the  Oregon 
company  came  up,  and  one  of  them  took  Brother  Young's  load 
into  his  wagon,  and  spliced  his  axletree,  which  enabled  him  to 
follow  the  camp.  At  11:55  we  halted  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
to  feed,  having  traveled  ten  miles  over  a  very  sandy,  barren 
land,  there  being  no  grass  only  on  the  banks  .of  the  creeks  and 
the  banks  of  the  river.  During  the  halt  Brother  Pratt  took  an 
observation  and  found  the  latitude  to  be  42  degrees  28  minutes  dC 
24  seconds. 

The  Oregon  cojnpany  passed  us  while  we  were  getting  up 
our  teams.  At  2 :25  we  started  again,  the  road  leaving  the  river, 
and  traveled  about  a  half  mile,  passing  a  large  lake  on  our  left. 
After  traveling  five  and  three-quarters  miles  we  crossed  a  creek 
about  six  feet  Avide  and  a  foot  deep,  the  banks  on  either  side 
being  steep  and  sandy.  The  banks  of  the  creek  are  lined  with 
wild  sage,  Avhich  is  very  large  and  thick,  instead  of  with  grass. 
Brother  Kimball  named  it  Sage  Creek.  After  passing  the  creek 
one  and  three-quarters  miles  we  again  arrived  at  the  banks  of 
the  river,  and  continued  to  travel  near  to  it,  and  on  three  and 
three-quarters  miles  we  crossed  a  stream  three  feet  wide,  but  not 
to  be  depended  on  for  water.  At  7 :50  we  encamped  at  the  foot 
of  a  very  high  gravely  hill  and  near  the  river,  having  traveled 
this  afternoon  ten  and  three-quarters  miles,  and  during  the  day 
twenty  and  three-quarters  miles,  mostly  over  a  sandy  road.  The 
feed  is  very  good  here,  and  is  well  worth  traveling  a  few  miles 
further  for.  Brothers  Barney  and  Hancock  have  each  killed 
an  antelope  today,  but  there  appears  to  be  no  buffalo  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  camp  is  all  well  and  we  continue  to  be  pros- 
pered on  our  journey. 

Wednesday,  June  23rd. — The  morning  was  pleasant  and 
warm,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  soon  after  6  o  'clock  and 
traveled  one  and  one-half  miles,  where  we  crossed  a  very  shallow 
stream  of  clear  cold  water,  about  five  feet  wide.  There  is  but 
little  grass  here,  but  there  is  a  number  of  bitter  cottonwood 
trees  growing  on  its  banks.  There  being  no  name  on  the  map 
for  this  creek,  it  is  called  Bitter  Cottonwood  Creek.  It  is  prob- 
able that  this  stream  is  caused  by  the  melting  snow  on  the 
mountains,  and,  if  so,  it  should  not  be  depended  upon  for  a 
camp  around  in  the  dryer  summer. 

After  traveling  five  miles  beyond  the  last  mentioned  stream, 
we  again  descended  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  where  there  would 
be  a  very  good  camp  around.  We  traveled  until  11 :0o  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  then  halted  for  noon,  as  the  road  and  the 
river  separated  at  this  point  and  the  road  was  very  sandy.  Our 


84 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

course  has  been  about  south.  The  day  has  been  very  warm  with 
a  high  south  breeze.  At  1 :10  we  continued  our  journey,  and 
after  traveling  six  and  three-quarters  miles  we  came  to  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  at  6 :20  we  encamped,  having  made  eight 
and  one-half  miles  this  afternoon  and  seventeen  miles  during 
the  day.  There  is  plenty  of  grass  on  the  river  banks,  but  no 
wood.  There  is  two  Oregon  companies  about  a  mile  ahead  of  us. 
Brother  Frost  set  up  his  forge  after  we  stopped  and  done  some 
work  for  the  Missourians.  The  Sweet  Water  Mountains  appear 
very  plain  from  here,  and  all  of  the  mountains  that  are  in  sight 
are  all  covered  with  snow. 

Thursday,  June  24th. — This  morning  was  fine  but  cool.  We 
proceeded  on  our  journey  at  6:15,  and  after  traveling  a  little 
over  five  miles  we  came  to  a  swampy  place,  Avhere  there  is  some 
water  standing,  and  there  is  a  hole  here  called  the  Ice  Spring,  the 
ice  in  it  being  about  four  inches  thick,  and  the  water  tastes  good. 
A  short  distance  further  we  passed  two  lakes  on  our  left,  the 
water  of  which  tastes  soft  and  is  not  fit  for  use.  After  trav- 
eling ten  and  one-quarter  miles  from  the  Ice  Spring,  over  a  very 
uneven  road,  we  descended  a  very  steep  bluff,  close  in  the  rear  of 
an  Oregon  company.  The  other  company  halted  a  few  miles 
back  and  we  passed  them. 

At  3 :30  we  turned  a  little  south  from  the  road  and  found  a 
camp  ground,  and  formed  a  line  so  as  to  close  a  bend  of  the 
river.  We  came  seventeen  and  three-quarters  miles  without 
stopping.  The  feed  is  good  here,  and  there  are  plenty  of  willows, 
which  ansAvers  for  fuel.  The  river  is  about  three  rods  wide,  and 
the  water  clear  and  cool.  A  little  before  dark,  when  the  breth- 
ren were  driving  up  their  teams,  one  of  President  Young's  best 
horses  got  shot.  While  driving  him  up  he  tried  to  run  back, 
when  John  Holman  reached  out  his  gun  to  stop  him.  The  cock 
caught  in  his  clothes  and  it  went  off,  the  load  entering  the 
horse's  body.  The  horse  walked  to  camp,  but  it  is  thought  by 
many  it  cannot  live.  The  ball  entered  a  little  forward  of  his 
right  hind  leg,  and  he  appears  to  be  in  much  pain. 

Friday,  June  25th. — The  morning  was  fine  but  cool.  The 
President's  horse  is  dead.  At  6:40  we  started  on  our  journey, 
and  forded  the  river  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  where  we  camped, 
the  water  being  about  three  feet  deep  and  the  current  very  swift. 
We  traveled  about  a  half  mile  and  came  to  a  stream  about  a 
rod  wide  and  a  foot  deep.  It  appears  to  come  from  the  north 
and  empty  into  the  river.  About  a  half  mile  beyond  this  stream 
we  turned  to  the  northwest  and  began  to  ascend  a  very  high 
bluff,  it  being  over  one  and  one-half  miles  to  the  top  of  it.  I 
was  informed,  while  crossing  the  river,  that  Brother  Whipple 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 85_ 

could  not  find  a  yoke  of  his  oxen.  I  went  up  to  the  top  of  the 
bluff  and  looked  back  to  the  north  and  discovered  two  oxen 
lying  down  in  a  ravine  near  the  river.  I  went  back  and,  while 
preparing  to  ford  the  river,  I  discovered  Brother  George  Billings 
hunting  for  them,  and  called  to  him  to  come  and  get  them. 

I  remained  at  the  river  until  he  drove  them  up,  the  camp 
being  about  three  miles  ahead.  I  staid  with  them  for  about 
four  and  one-quarter  miles  from  where  we  encamped.  We  came 
to  the  river,  and  traveled  a  little  further,  ascending  a  very  steep, 
sandy  ridge,  and  after  leaving  the  west  foot  of  the  ridge  we 
came  to  a  stream  about  twenty-five  feet  wide,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  further  we  crossed  the  same,  which  was  only  six  feet 
wide.  The  last  crossing  the  banks  were  very  soft.  About  12 
o'clock  we  caiight  up  with  the  camp,  they  having  halted  for  noon, 
having  come  eight  and  three-quarters  miles.  The  wind  was  blow- 
ing very  strong  from  the  northwest,  making  it  cold  and  un- 
pleasant traveling.  Brother  Pratt  took  an  observation  at  this 
place  and  found  the  latitude  to  be  42  degrees  28  minutes  36 
seconds. 

At  1 :20  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  the  road  running  on 
the  river  bank  for  about  two  miles,  when  we  began  to  ascend  hill 
after  hill  for  three  miles.  After  traveling  seven  and  three- 
quarters  miles  over  a  very  uneven  road  we  came  to  a  low,  swampy 
place  which  was  very  difficult  to  cross.  About  one  and  one-third 
miles  beyond  the  swamp  a  creek,  about  a  foot  wide,  was  crossed 
and  another  a  quarter  of  a  mile  further  about  two  feet  wide. 
At  6 :45  we  formed  our  encampment  on  the  north  side  of  a  creek 
about  five  feet  wide,  having  come  this  afternoon  eleven  and  one- 
half  miles  and  during  the  day  twenty  and  one-quarter  miles.  This 
is  a  good  camp  ground,  with  wood,  water  and  grass  in  plenty. 

Saturday,  June  26th. — The  morning  was  very  cold  and  we 
had  a  severe  frost  last  night.  At  7:40  we  crossed  the  creek  and 
proceeded  on  our  journey,  and  after  traveling  one  mile  we  passed 
a  small  creek  south  of  the  road  and  two  and  one-half  miles  be- 
yond we  crossed  a  branch  of  the  Sweet  Water  about  two  rods 
wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  willows  growing  on  the  banks, 
making  it  a  very  good  camp  ground.  After  crossing  tho  last 
stream,  we  crossed  another  high  range  of  hills,  from  which  we 
had  a  good  view  of  Table  Rock  to  the  southwest,  and  the  high 
broken  chain  of  mountains  of  the  Wind  River  on  the  north.  At 
12:40  we  halted  for  noon  on  the  main  branch  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  having  traveled  eleven  miles. 

The  river  here  is  about  three  rods  wide  and  three  feet 
deep  and  the  current  is  verv  swift,  the  water  being  very  clear 
and  cold.  The  snow  lays  on  its  banks  in  some  places  six  and 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


eight  feet  deep.  This  is  a  lovely  place  for  a  camp  ground. 
Some  of  the  }'ounger  folks  amused  themselves  snowballing  each 
other  on  a  large  bank  of  snow.  Eric  Glin&s  came  into  camp 
soon  after  we  halted,  having  left  the  brethren  at  the  upper 
ferry  on  the  Platte  River.  At  2:20  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  ascending  a  high  hill,  and  found  the  road  pretty  good 
— latitude  42  degrees  22  minutes  62  seconds.  After  traveling 
seven  miles  we  arrived  on  a  level  spot  of  low  land,  where 
we  found  some  grass  and  halted,  while  President  Young  and 
some  others  went  over  the  ridge  to  look  out  a  camp  ground. 
Brother  Young  sent  back  word  for  the  camp  to  come  on. 
Leaving  the  road  and  traveling  a  northwest  course  we  found 
our  camp  ground,  at  6:45,  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  road,  having  come  this 
afternoon  seven  and  three-quarters  miles,  and  during  the  day 
eighteen  and  three-quarters  miles.  This  is  a  good  camp  ground, 
there  being  plenty  of  grass  and  willows. 

Brothers  Kimball,  Pratt  and  some  others  went  ahead  and 
about  dark  Brother  Young  told  me  I  had  better  get  up  a  horse, 
as  there  was  a  small  company  going  in  search  of  them,  and  he 
wanted  me  to  go  along-  with  them.  We  got  about  a  mile  from 
the  camp  and  met  Brother  Kimball  traveling  on  foot,  who  in- 
formed us  that  Brother  Pratt  and  the  others  were  encamped 
about  six  miles  ahead,  with  a  small  party  of  mountaineers,  who 
were  going  to  the  states.  The  word  came  to  Brother  Kimball 
that  there  was  no  prospect  of  finding  water  without  traveling 
some  distance  ahead.  He  was  to  go  ahead  and  find  a  camp 
ground,  and  if  the  teams  were  tired  they  could  stop  and 
feed,  and  then  go  on  again,  but  finding  a  good  camp  ground 
over  the  bluffs  to  the  rieht.  it  was  thought  best  to  stop  for 
the  night.  Brother  Kimball  not  seeing  the  camp  coming  up, 
started  back  alone  with  any  fire  arms  and  traveled  six  miles 
after  dark. 

The  brethren  made  a  fire  on  the  ridsre  south  of  the  camp, 
which  he  saw  some  distance  off.  When  he  got  to  camp  he  was 
about  tired  out,  as  he  had  traveled  on  foot  about  fifteen  miles 
in  the  afternoon,  which  blistered  his  feet  very  bad.  It  is  ascer- 
tained that  we  are  about  two  miles  from  the  descending  ridge 
of  the  South  Pass  by  the  road.  This  riclsje  divides  the  head- 
waters of  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Pacific,  and,  although 
not  the  highest  land  we  have  traveled  over,  may  with  pro- 
priety, be  said  to  be  the  summit  of  the  South  Pass. 

Sunday,  June  27th.— The  morninar  was  fine,  but  cold.  The 
ox  teams  started  at  7:55  and  the  horse  teams  soon  after.  The 
camp  passed  the  eight  men  that  were  going  back.  They  had 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 87_ 

twenty  horses  and  mules,  mostly  laden  with  packs,  and  some 
of  the  brethren  sent  letters  back  by  them.  We  went  two  and 
three-quarters  miles  and  arrived  at  the  dividing  ridge.  Brother 
Pratt  took  a  barometrical  observation  and  found  the  altitude 

to  be This  spot  is  2781/2  miles  from  Fort  John  (*Lara- 

mie)  and  is  supposed  to  divide  the  Oregon  and  Indian  Terri- 
tories by  a  line  running  north  and  south.  Between  two  and 
three  miles  further  we  arrived  at  the  place  where  Brother  Pratt 
and  company  camped  last  night,  at  the  head  waters  of  Green 
River,  and,  although  the  streams  are  small,  we  have  the  satis- 
faction of  seeing  the  currents  run  west  instead  of  east. 

There  is  good  grass  here,  but  no  wood.  One  of  the  moun- 
taineers is  traveling  with  us  today.  He  wants  to  pilot  some  of 
the  companies  to  Oregon.  He  has  two  pack  mules  loaded  with 
skins  to  trade.  His  name  is  Harris.  He  gives  a  very  discour- 
aging account  of  Bear  River  Valley  and  the  surrounding  coun-1 
try.  He  said:  "It  is  destitute  of  timber  or  vegetation,  and 
the  country  is  sandy,  nothing  growing  there  but  wild  sage."  We 
crossed  the  stream,  which  is  about  three  feet  wide,  and  stopped 
on  its  bank  to  feed  about  12  o'clock,  having  come  six  and  three- 
quarters  miles.  The  latitude  of  this  place  is  42  deg.  18  min.  58 
sec.  At  2:25  we  started  on  again,  the  roads  being  pretty  good. 
At  7:20  we  encamped  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Dry  Sandy,  hav- 
ing traveled  nine  miles,  and  during  the  day  fifteen  and  a  quar- 
ter miles.  There  is  no  wood  here  and  but  little  water,  and  the 
feed  is  poor. 

Monday,  June  28th. — The  morning  Avas  fair,  and  many  of 
the  brethren  are  trading  with  Mr.  Harris  for  buckskins.  I  tried 
to  trade  with  him,  but  I  considered  them  too  high.  He  sold 
them  from  $1.50  to  $2.00,  and  made  into  pants  $3.00  and  $4.00. 
At  7:30  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  Mr.  Harris  waiting  for 
the  Oregon  company  to  come  up.  After  traveling  about  six 
miles  the  road  forked,  one  continuing  a  west  course  and  the 
other  taking  a  southwest  course.  We  took  the  left  hand  road  to 
California.  The  junction  of  the  road  is  297Vi>  miles  from  Fort 
John  (*Laramie). 

About  1:40  we  arrived  at  the  Little  Sandy  and  stopped  on 
its  east  bank  to  feed,  having  traveled  fourteen  and  a  quarter 
miles  Avithout  seeing  Avood  or  Avater  or  feed  for  our  teams.  This 
stream  is  about  twenty  feet  wide  on  an  average,  but  at  the  ford- 
ing place  it  is  over  three  rods  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep, 
the  water  being  muddy  and  the  current  swift.  At  5:15  we  com- 
menced fording  the  riArer,  and  at  5:45  all  the  wagons  were  over 
safe,  with  no  other  loss  than  two  tar  buckets.  After  traveling 
a  short  distance  we  were  met  by  Mr.  Bridger,  the  principal  man 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


of  the  fort  which  bears  his  name,  on  his  way  to  Fort  John,  ac- 
companied by  two  men. 


Corn   for  Jim    It  ri, I  _•••••   at   §1,000   an    Kar. 


As  we  wished  to  make  some  inquiries  about  the  country, 
he  said  if  we  would  encamp  he  would  stay  with  us  all  night.  We 
turned  off  the  road  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  encamped  near  the 
Sandy  afc  6  o'clock,  having  come  a  mile  and  three-quarters,  and 
during  the  day  fifteen  and  a  quarter  miles.  We  found  the  feed 
pretty  good.  Soon  after  we  encamped  the  Twelve  and  some  oth- 
ers went  to  Mr.  Bridger  to  make  some  inquiries  about  the  coun- 
try., I  understand  that  it  was  impossible  to  form  a  correct  idea 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 89_ 

from  the  very  imperfect  and  irregular  way  in  which  he  gave  the 
description.  My  health  has  been  very  poor  for  the  last  two 
days.  I  have  been  afflicted  with  a  very  severe  headache,  but 
feel  a  little  better  this  evening.  As  I  had  not  washed  my  cloth- 
ing for  some  time,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  washing  this 
evening,  and  did  not  get  through  until  after  dark.  After  I  ate 
supper  I  went  down  to  where  Mr.  Bridger  was  encamped,  and 
from  his  appearance  and  conversation,  I  should  not  take  him 
to  be  a  man  of  truth.  In  his  description  of  Bear  River  Valley 
and  the  surrounding  country,  Avhich  was  very  good,  he  crossed 
himself  a  number  of  times.  He  said  that  Harris  knew  nothing 
about  that  part  of  the  country.  He  says  there  is  plenty  of  tim- 
ber there;  that  he  had  made  sugar  for  the  last  twenty  years 
where  Harris  said  there  was  no  timber  of  any  kind.  But  it  is 
my  opinion  that,-  he  spoke  not  knowing  about  the  place,  that 
we  can  depend  on  until  we  see  for  ourselves.  Brother  King  is 
sick  and  there  are  many  in  the  camp  complaining.  Brother  Kim- 
ball  does  all  in  his  power  for  the  comfort  of  those  that  are  sick 
around  him. 

Tuesday,  June  29th. — The  morning  was  very  pleasant,  and 
we  started  at  7:40  a.  m.,  traveling  over  a  very  good  road,  though 
a  barren  land.  At  10 :45  we  halted  for  noon,  near  the  banks  of 
the  Big  Sandy,  having  traveled  six  and  three-quarters  miles. 
Most  of  the  second  division  stopped  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  the  first  division  stopping  on  the  north  side.  The  stream 
appears  to  be  about  seven  rods  wide  at  this  place  and  two  feet 
deep  in  the  channel.  There  is  some  timber  on  its-  banks  and 
pretty  good  feed. 

At  1 :30  we  again  proceded  on  our  journey,  the  road  being 
tolerably  good.  After  traveling  nine  and  a  half  miles  Brother 
Young,  who  has  been  ahead,  rode  back  and  told  the  camp  that 
they  would  have  to  travel  at  least  six  miles  before  they  could  find 
feed.  It  was  then  6:15,  but  at  9:05  we  found  ourselves  again 
on  the  low  lands  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  We  traveled  since 
noon  seventeen  miles,  and  during  the  day  twenty-three  and 
three-quarters  miles.  The  feed  is  very  good  here.  The  brethren 
found  some  willows  about  a  mile  from  the  camp,  which  an- 
swered for  cooking. 

Wednesday,  June  30th.— The  morning  Avas  hot,  but  at  8:15 
we  proceeded  on  our  .journey.  Several  o£  the  brethren  were  re- 
ported sick,  and  not  able  to  drive  their  teams.  The  brethren  are 
all  taken  alike,  with  violent  pains  in  the  head  and  back  and  a 
very  hot  fever.  Some  think  it  is  caused  by  using  the  salaratus 
that  was  picked  up  on  the  lakes.  At  11:30  we  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  the  Green  River,  having  traveled  eight  miles.  It  is 


90 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


about  as  wide  as  the  Platte,  and  the  current  is  swift.  After  din- 
ner the  second  divsion  was  called  together,  and  twelve  men  se- 
lected to  build  a  raft.  The  first  division  also  went  to  work  to 
build  a  raft. 

There  were  men  picked  out  to  guard  the  cattle  and  some  to 
burn  charcoal.  Brothers  George  Billings  and  Whipple  are  very 
sick.  Brother  Kimball  told  me  to  baptize  Brother  Billings,  as 
he  had  a  very  high  fever.  He  got  relief  immediately. 

This  afternoon  Brother  Samuel  Brannon  arrived  from  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  had  two  men  with  him.  One  of  them 
I  have  seen  in  Nauvoo.  His  name  is  Smith.  Brother  Brannon 
sailed  with  a  company  from  New  York.  He  reported  them  all 
doing  well.  There  has  been  some  few  deaths  among  them.  He 
gives  a  very  favorable  account  of  the  country.  About  dark  the 
brethren  completed  the  rafts. 


IVative    Belles. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST  91 


9.— ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  JULY,  1847. 

Thursday,  July  1st,  1847. — This  morning  was  pleasant,  and 
the  brethren  commenced  crossing  wagons.  The  raft  made  by 
the  second  division  did  not  work  well,  the  logs  being  water 
soaked.  They  went  to  work  to  make  another  raft.  The  wind 
blew  high  today  and  we  only  got  fourteen  wagons  across. 
Brother  Clayton  was  taken  very  sick  this  morning. 

Friday,  July  2nd. — The  morning  was  calm  and  pleasant.  I 
crossed  the  river  early  this  morning,  and  helped  the  brethren 
finish  the  raft,  and  about  9  o'clock  AVC  commenced  crossing  the 
wagons.  The  Twelve  had  a  council  and  decided  to  send  three 
or  four  men  back  to  pilot  the  next  company  up. 

Saturday.  July  3rd. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  about 
noon  we  got  the  last  wagon  over.  We  hauled  one  of  the  rafts 
up  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  for  the  next  company.  Brothers 
Young  and  Kimball  Avent  ahead  to  look  out  a  camp  ground.  The 
brethren  returned  soon  after  noon  and  gave  orders  for  us  to 
harness  our  teams,  and  at  3:15  AVC  again  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
ney, coming  three  miles  and  encamping  on  the  river.  The  feed 
was  good.  The  brethren  Avere  called  together  this  evening  and 
volunteers  called  for  to  go  back  to  meet  the  companies,  when 
the  folloAving  persons  offered  their  services:  Phineas  Young, 
Aaron  Farr,  Eric  Glines,  Rodney  Badger  and  George  Woodard. 
As  there  Avere  not  spare  horses  enough  in  the  camp  for  each 
man  to  ride.  President  Young  let  them  have  a  light  wagon  to 
carry  their  provisions. 

Sunday,  July  4th. — The  morning  Avas  fine  and  pleasant,  and 
the  five  brethren  started  back  to  meet  the  camps.  President 
Young  and  Kimball  and  others  Avent  back  to  the  ferry  with  them. 
While  they  Avere  absent  some  of  the  brethren  assembled  in  the 
circle  for  meeting.  At  2 :30  the  brethren  returned  from  the 
ferry,  accompanied  by  twelve  of  the  brethren  from  Pueblo,  who 
belonged  to  the  army.  They  report  the  remainder  of  the  com- 
pany about  eight  days'  traA'el  behind.  One  of  Brother  Crow's 
oxen  was  found  dead  this  afternoon.  My  health  is  very'  poor, 
for  I  have  taken  cold  from  \vorking  in  the  water,  which  has 
brought  on  the  mountain  feA'er  again.  It  is  a  distressing  com- 
plaint, and  I  took  a  lobelia  emetic  this  eArening.  and  H.  C.  Kim- 
ball administered  to  me,  Avhich  relieved  me  some. 


92 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Monday,  July  5th. — At  8  o  'clock  \ve  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
ney, though  there  are  many  of  the  brethren  sick.  1  spent  a 
very  sick  night.  We  traveled  three  and  a  half  miles  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  at  which  point  the  road  leaves  the  river  and 
bends  to  the  westward.  At  4 :45  we  arrived  at  Black 's  Fork  and 
encamped,  having  come  twenty  miles,  sixteen  and  a  half  of  it 
without  water.  This  stream  is  about  six  rods  wide  and  the  cur- 
rent is  very  swift.  There  is  a  place  where  we  might  have  saved 
a  mile  by  digging  down  a  bank.  We  have  passed  over  several 
steep  places  today. 

Tuesday,  July  6th. — The  morning  was  very  pleasant,  and  at 
7:50  we  started  on  our  journey.  We  traveled  four  and  three- 
quarters  miles  and  crossed  Haw's  Fork,  a  rapid  stream  about 
three  rods  wide  and  two  feet  deep.  It  would  be  a  good  camp 
ground,  as  the  feed  is  good.  We  came  a  mile  and  a  half  further 
and  crossed  Black's  Fork,  a  stream  about  eight  rods  wide  and 
two  and  a  half  feet  deep.  There  is  but  little  grass  on  its  banks. 
After  traveling  eleven  miles  beyond  the  last  stream  we  crossed 
a  small  creek  about  two  feet  wide.  At  4  o'clock  we  crossed 
Black's  Fork  again,  and  encamped  on  its  banks,  having  come 
eighteen  and  one-quarter  miles. 

Wednesday,  July  7th. — We  proceeded  on  our  journey  at  7 :45 
a.  m.,  and  after  traveling  two  and  one-half  miles  we  crossed 
Black's  Fork  again.  There  is  an  abundance  of  good  feed  here, 
and  a  large  quantity  of  wild  flax,  also  beautiful  flowers  growing. 
We  traveled  two  and  three-quarter  miles  further  and  crossed 
a  stream  about  two  rods  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  the  current 
being  very  swift.  At  12  o'clock  we  halted  for  noon  on  the 
banks  of  the  last  stream,  having  traveled  nine  miles  over  a  very 
rough  road.  The  wind  blows  strong,  which  makes  it  dusty  and 
disagreeable  traveling. 

At  1:40  we  started  again,  and  after  traveling  seven  and  a 
half  miles  we  came  in  sight  of  a  number  of  Indian  lodges  on 
the  south  side  of  the  road.  The  most  of  them  are  occupied  by 
half-breed  traders.  There  are  also  American  traders  here.  One 
of  them,  Mr.  Goodall,  was  one  who  passed  us  at  the  Platte  River. 
We  continued  on  and  crossed  four  streams  that  would  average 
about  a  rod  wide,  the  current  being  very  swift,  when  we  arrived 
at  Fort  Bridger,  which  is  397  miles  from  Fort  John.  We  came 
about  half  a  mile  past  the  fort  and  encamped,  after  crossing 
three  more  creeks.  This  afternoon  we  traveled  eight  and  three- 
quarters  miles,  and  during  the  day  seventeen  and  three-quarters 
miles.  Grass  is  much  higher  at  this  place  than  we  have  generally 
seen  it.  The  whole  region  seems  to  be  filled  with  rapid  streams, 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 93_ 

all  bending  their  way  to  the  principal  fork.     They  all,  doubt- 
less, originate  from  the  melting  snows  in  the  mountains. 


Indian  Encampment. 

Bridger's  Fort  is  composed  of  two  log  houses,  about  forty 
feet  long  each,  and  joined  by  a  pen  for  horses,  about  ten  feet 
high,  and  constructed  by  placing  poles  upright  in  the  ground 
close  together.  There  are  several  Indian  lodges  close  by,  and 
a  full  crop  of  young  children,  playing  around  the  doors.  The 
Indians  are  said  to  be  the  Snake  tribe.  The  latitude  ofToff 
Bridger  is  41  deg.  19  min.  13  sec.,  and  its  height  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  according  to  Elder  Pratt 's  observation,  is  6665  feet. 

Thursday,  July  8th. — The  morning  was  fine,  but  the  wind 
was  high.  It  was  thought  best  to  stop  here  today  to  set  some 
wagon  tires,  and  let  the  brethren  have  an  opportunity  to  trade. 
I  traded'  off  two  rifles,  one  belonging  to  Brother  Whipple  and 
one  to  Brother  G.  Billings,  for  nineteen  buck  skins  and  three 
elk  skins  and  some  other  articles  for  making  moccasins.  A  coun- 
cil met  and  settled  some  difficulty  between  George  Mills  and 
Andrew  Gibbons.  It  was  decided  that  Thomas  Williams  and  S. 
Brannon  should  return  from  here  and  meet  Captain  Brown's 
company  from  Pueblo. 

Friday,  July  9th. — We  started  at  8  o'clock  on  our  journey 
westward,  the  road  being  rough.  We  traveled  six  and  a  half 
miles  and  arrived  at  the  Springs,  where  we  halted  to  rest  our 
teamsi  We  then  proceeded  on  three  and  a  quarter  miles  and 
began  to  ascend  a  long,  steep -hill,  near  the  top  of  which  Brother 
Pratt  took  observations  and  found  the  latitude  to  be  41  deg.  16 
min.  11  sec.  It  is  eight  miles  from  Fort  Bridger.  The  descent 
from  the  top  of  this  hill  is  the  steepest  and  most  dificult  we 
have  ever  met  with,  it  being  long  and  almost  perpendicular.  At 


_94 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

3  o'clock  we  crossed  the  Muddy  Fork,  a  stream  about  twelve 
feet  wide,  and  encamped  on  its  banks,  having  traveled  six  and 
three-quarters  miles,  and  during  the  day  thirteen  miles.  There 
is  plenty  of  tall  bunch  grass  here.  The  day  has  been  warm  and 
dusty. 

Saturday,  July  10th. — At  8  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  and  after  traveling  three  and  a  half  miles  we  passed 
a  small  copperas  spring  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  a  little  to  the 
left  of  the  road ;  and  two  and  a  half  miles  from  this  spring  we 
found  a  very  steep  and  rough  place  to  descend,  and  found  it  nec- 
essary to  stop  halfway  down  and  repair  the  road.  About  twenty 
miles  from  Fort  Bridger  we  passed  another  spring,  came  a  short 
distance  further  and  arrived  at  the  bottom,  where  the  grass  was 
very  plentiful.  At  1:45  A\"e  halted  for  noon,  having  come  nine 
miles,  which  is  in  latitude  41  deg.  14  min.  21  sec.  In  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  we  again  proceeded  on  our  journey,  and  traveled 
three  and  a  half  miles,  where  we  began  to  ascend  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  and  the  Great  Basin. 
This  mountain  is  very  high,  and  the  ascent  is  very  steep. 

The  descent  was  very  steep,  and  we  had  to  lock  our  wheels 
for  about  a  half  mile,  where  we  traveled  on  the  bottom  a  few 
miles  between  high,  rugged  mountains.  After  rising  another 
high  ridge,  we  crossed  a  small  creek  about  ten  feet  wide.  At 
7:45  we  encamped  on  its  banks,  having  traveled  this  afternoon 
nine  miles,  and  during  the  day  eighteen  miles,  over  the  most 
mountainous  road  we  have  yet  seen.  Soon  after  we  encamped 
Mr.  Miles  Goodier  came  into  our  camp.  He  is  the  man  who  is 
settled  near  the  Salt  Lake.  He  thinks  it  is  about  seventy-five 
miles  from  here  to  his  place.  He  gives  a  favorable  report  of  the 
country.  There  is  a  beautiful  spring  of  water  100  yards  south- 
west of  our  camp. 

Sunday,  July  llth. — The  morning  was  very  cool,  and  we 
found  ice  in  our  water  pails.  During  the  day  some  of  the 
brethren  found  an  oil  spring,  about  one  mile  south  of  the  camp. 
It  resembled  tar  and  is  very  oily.  Porter  Rockwell  and  Brother 
Little  and  some  others  went  with  Mr.  Goodier  to  look  out  the 
road.  After  dark  the  brethren  were  called  together  to  decide 
which  road  they  would  take,  as  there  are  two  roads.  They  de- 
cided to  take  the  right  hand  road. 

Monday,  July  12th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  cool,  and 
we  proceeded  on  our  journey  at  7:30.  traveled  one  and  one-quar- 
ter miles  and  ascended  a  very  steep  hill,  and  a  half  mile  further 
we  crossed  Bear  river,  a  very  rapid  stream  about  six  rod-s  wide 
and  two  feet  deep,  the  banks  of  which  were  lined  with  willows 
and  a  little  timber.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  ford  we  passed 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 95 

over  another  high  ridge,  and  descended  into  a  narrow  bottom, 
which  appeared  fertile,  there  being  plenty  of  grass,  but  no  tim- 
ber. Beyond  Bear  river  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  passed  a 
spring  of  clear,  cold  water,  and  at  1.1 :50  we  halted  for  noon, 
having  come  nine  and  three-quarters  miles. 

President  Young  was  taken  sick  this  forenoon.  After  rest- 
ing two  hours  all  the  camp,  except  eight  wagons,  proceeded  on 
their  journey.  President  Young  not  being  able  to  go  on,  Brother 
Kimball's  three  wagons  remained  behind.  Brother  Rockwood  is 
also  very  sick. 

Tuesday,  July  13th. — This  morning  was  pleasant.  Brother 
Brown  and  Brother  Mathews  returned  and  reported  that  the 
camp  was  six  and  three-quarters  miles  ahead.  Brother  Kimball 
and  myself  returned  with  the  brethren  to  the  camp.  Brother 
Young  and  Brother  Rockwood  remained  very  sick  today.  When 
Brother  Kimball  arrived  at  the  camp,  he  called  a  meeting  and 
proposed  that  a  company  go  ahead  with  Elder  Pratt  to  hunt  out 
the  road.  Soon  after  dinner  a  company  of  twenty  wagons, 
with  Brother  Pratt  at  their  head,  prepared  to  go  ahead.  About 
a  half  mile  west  from  the  camp  there  is  a  cave  in  the  rocks 
about  forty  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide  and  about  five  feet 
high.  At  3  o'clock  we  returned  back  to  the  camp,  accompanied- 
by  George  A.  Smith. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  names  of  those  who  have  gone 
ahead:  Orson  Pratt  (commander  of  the  company),  Stephen 
Markham  (aid),  0.  P.  Rockwell,  J.  Redding,  Nathaniel  Fair- 
banks, James  Egbert,  John  S.  Freeman,  Marcus  B.  Thorpe,  Rob- 
ert Crow,  Benjamin  B.  Crow,  John  Crow.  Walter  H.  Crow,  George 
W.  Thirlkill,  James  Chesney,  Lewis  B.  Myers,  John  Brown, 
Shadraek  Roundy,  H.  C.  Hansen,  Levi  Jackman,  Lyman  Curtis, 
David  Powers,  Oscar  Crosby,  Hark  Lay,  Joseph  Mathews,  Gil- 
bert Sumner,  Gilbroid  Sumne,  Green  Flake,  John  S.  Gleason, 
Charles  Burke.  Norman  Taylor,  A.  P.  Chesley,  Seth  Taft,  Horace 
Thornton.  Stephen  Kelsey,  David  Grant.  James  W.  Stewart,  Rob- 
ert Thomas.  C.  D.  Barnum,  John  S.  Eldredge,  Elijah  Newman, 
Francis  Boggs.  Levi  N.  Kendall. 

First  division  7  wagons     15  men 

Second  division .16  wagons     27  men 

Total    . .  .23  wagons     42  men 

Wednesday,  July  14th. — The  morning  was  pleasant.  Elder 
Woodruff  and  Adams  came  from  the  other  camp  to  see  the 
pick,  who  were  getting  better.  Brothers  Woodruff  and  Adams 
ate  supper  with  Brother  Kimball.  Brother  Woodruff  is  going 
to  bring  his  carriage  in  the  morning  for  Brothers  Young  'and 


96 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

Rockwood  to  ride  in,  as  they  think  they  will  be  able  to  go 
ahead  in  the  morning.  I  went  on  the  top  of  a  high  mountain 
with  Brothers  Kimball,  Benson,  and  L.  Young  and  offered  our 
prayers  to  the  Almighty  God  in  behalf  of  the  sick  and  for 
our  dear  families. 

Thursday,  July  15th. — The  morning  was  cloudy.  About 
8  o'clock  Elder  Woodruff  arrived  with  his  carriage,  and  we 
started  soon  after,  and  at  12  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  camp 
ahead,  when  orders  were  given  for  the  brethren  to  gather  up 
their  teams,  and  at  1 :40  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  Just 
before  we  started  we  had  a  refreshing  shower.  After  traveling 
two  miles  we  passed  a  cool  spring  of  water  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill  to  the  right  of  the  road.  At  3:30  we  encamped  near  the 
foot  of  a  high  red  bluff,  having  traveled  four  and  a  half  miles. 
We  had  two  more  beautiful  showers  this  afternoon.  The  feed 
is  good  here,  and  a  good  spring  of  water  to  the  left  of  the 
road. 

Friday,  July  16th. — This  morning  we  had  two  pleasant 
showers,  accompanied  with  loud  thunder.  At  8:45  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey,  and  traveled  through  a  narrow  ravine 
(Echo  canyon),  between  very  high  mountains.  After  traveling 
one  and  one-half  miles  we  passed  a  steep  ravine,  where  most 
of  the  teams  had  to  double  to  get  up.  A  half  mile  further  we 
crossed  the  creek  and  found  the  crossing  very  bad.  Harvey 
Peirce  broke  his  wagon  reach  and  bolster.  While  they  were 
repairing  the  wagon,  the  brethren  found  a  better  place  to  cross 
the  creek.  At  12:30  we  halted  to  feed,  having  traveled  six 
and  three-fourths  miles. 

0.  P.  Rockwell  returned  from  Brother  Pratt 's  company, 
and  reported  that  it  is  about  twenty- five  or  thirty  miles  to 
the  canyon,  they  have  found,  that  leads  to  the  cut-off  over  the 
mountains.  They  expect  to  arrive  at  the  top  of  the  mountains 
today.  At  2:20  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  The  road  winds 
through  a  narrow  bottom,  bounded  by  high  mountains  on  each 
side,  towering  some  hundreds  of  feet  above  our  heads,  our  road 
sometimes  running  over  small  hills,  and  through  dense  thickets 
of  willows.  At  6  p.  m.  we  encamped,  having  traveled  nine  and 
one-fourth  miles,  and  during  the  day  sixteen  and  three-fourths 
miles.  A  short  distance  ahead  can  be  seen  Weber  fork. 

Saturday,  July  17. — It  was  a  bright  and  beautiful  morning, 
and  we  started  about  8:30  a.  m.  The  ten  to  which  Father 
Chamberlain  belongs  (eleventh  ten),  remained  behind  until  his 
wagon  was  repaired.  We  descended  a  sloping  hill,  and  carne 
to  the  Weber  fork,  and  turned  short  to  the  right,  came  a  mile 
and  a  half  and  encamped  on  its  banks,  about  10  a.  m.,  having 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 97_ 

traveled  about  two  and  one-half  miles.  The  reason  of  our 
stopping  so  soon  was  in  consequence  of  President  Young  being 
suddenly  taken  quite  ill,  and  could  not  endure  to  travel  any 
farther  today. 

The  river  is  bounded  in  places  by  high  banks,  being  lined 
on  either  side  with  dry  and  green  cottonwood  trees.  The  grass 
is  very  good  on  the  bottom.  I  went  in  company  with  Elders 
Kimball,  G.  A.  Smith,  Dr.  Richards,  Brother  Benson  and  others, 
nine  in  all,  to  the  top  of  a  very  high  mountain,  and  clothed 
ourselves  to  pray  for  President  Young  and  others  that  were 
sick,  and  for  our  families,  etc.,  etc.  We  had  a  glorious  time, 
and  I  thank  the  Lord  for  the  privilege.  About  6  o'clock. 
Brother  Kimball  requested  me  to  ride  ahead  with  him  and  three 
or  four  others  to  see  the  canyon,  which  we  supposed  to  be 
about  seven  miles  from  the  camp,  but  when  we  arrived  there 
it  was  dark  and  we  could  not  see  much.  The  evening  turned 
very  cold  and  we  started  for  the  camp  and  arrived  about 
10:30  p.  m. 

Sunday,  July  18th. — It  was  a  pleasant  morning,  and  the 
camp  was  called  together  before  breakfast,  at  Dr.  Richard's 
wagon,  when  Brother  Kimball  addressed  them.  He  told  them 
that  President  Young  was  very  sick,  and  it  was  his  mind  that 
the  brethren  should  stay  in  the  camp  and  not  go  out  hunting 
or  fishing,  but  have  a  meeting,  and  offer  up  our  prayers  in 
behalf  of  President  Young  and  others  who  were  sick  and 
afflicted.  Tt  was  motioned  that  the  brethren  meet  at  10  a.  m.r 
the  meeting  to  be  conducted  by  the  bishops.  We  had  a  very 
good  meeting.  It  was  decided  that  the  camp  move  on  in  the 
morning,  except  a  few  wagons  to  remain  with  Brother  Young; 
and  the  first  good  place  they  could  find  they  were  to  put  in 
seeds,  such  as  potatoes,  in  order  to  save  the  seed — buckwheat 
and  all  kinds  that  would  grow  this  season  of  the  year.  After 
an  hour's  intermission  the  brethren  came  together  again  and 
partook  of  the  Sacrament.  Brother  Kimball  gave  us  some  good 
instructions,  which  done  my  soul  good,  and  we  had  a  very  good 
meeting. 

Monday,  July  19th. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  the 
portion  of  the  camp  that  were  going  ahead,  forty-one  wagons, 
started  at  7:45.  leaving  fifteen  wagons  to  remain.  Three  of 
Brother  Kimball 's  wagons  remained  behind  and  three  went 
ahead.  Dr.  Richards  lost  one  of  his  steers,  and  had  to  remain 
behind  nntil  we  started,  which  was  about  9:30.  We  traveled 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  and  encamped.  Soon  after  we  stopped 
I  rode  ahead,  with  Elder  Kimball,  George  A.  Smith,  Benson  and 
Woodruff,  to  view  the  country.  About  two  miles  ahead  we 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


caught  up  with  Dr.  Richards'  teams,  and  one  mile  further  we 
found  Brother  E.  Snow  with  his  wagon  broke  down.  We 
traveled  about  four  miles  further  and  came  up  with  the  camp, 
about  1  p.  m.  near  the  top  of  the  mountain.  We  saw  two 
springs  on  our  way  up,  and  crossed  a  small  stream  a  number 
of  times. 

We  descended  the  hill  about  two  miles  and  then  turned  off 
to  the  right,  and  ascended  a  hill  to  see  what  direction  the 
road  ran.  About  two  miles  from  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
the  road  turned  suddenly  to  the  westward.  Here  Brother  G.  A. 
Smith  left  us  and  went  on  with  the  camp,  and  we  returned 
to  our  camp.  We  found  the  flies  very  troublesome  to  our 
horses  as  we  returned.  We  reached  the  camp  about  4:30,  hav- 
ing traveled  about  twenty  miles.  Brothers  Cushing,  Murray 
and  some  others  rode  ahead  to  see  the  canyon.  The  brethren 
have  caught  a  number  of  tixmt.  President  Young  is  some  bet- 
ter this  evening.  Elder  Kimball's  health  is  pretty  good,  but 
he  is  generally  reduced,  and  fatigued  by  anxiety  and  riding 
and  looking  out  roads,  etc.  All  the  sick  are  recovering.  The 
evening  is  pleasant.  In  the  canyon  is  a  stream  of  water  con- 
fined, flowing  between  rocks. 

Tuesday,  July  20th. — This  morning  was  pleasant.  Presi- 
dent Young's  health  continues  to  improve,  and  it  was  thought 
best  to  travel  in  the  cool  of  the  morning,  so  we  started  at  5:30, 
came  about  one  mile  and  crossed  Weber  river,  which  is  about 
five  or  six  rods  wide  and  about  two  feet  deep,  and  is  a  beau- 
tiful clear  stream.  We  traveled  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
and  came  to  a  guide  board,  put  up  by  William  Clayton,  with 
the  following  inscription  on  it :  ' '  Pratt 's  Pass,  to  avoid  the 
canyon ;  74*4  miles  from  Fort  Bridger. ' '  Here  the  road  turns 
to  the  southwest.  We  traveled  about  two  miles  further  and 
stopped  to  get  breakfast,  near  a  cool,  clear  stream  of  water. 
The  feed  is  pretty  srood  here,  and  there  is  some  little  wood,  and 
it  is  a  pretty  good  camp  ground. 

After  one  and  one-half  hours'  stop,  we  again  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  I  went  ahead  with  four  or  five  others  to  repair 
the  road.  We  traveled  about  six  miles,  and  encamped  in  a 
valley  that  is  bounded  in  on  all  sides  by  mountains.  There  is 
plenty  of  feed  and  water  here,  and  some  willows  and  sage 
roots  that  answers  for  fuel.  Elder  Kimball  and  Benson  wont 
ahead  to  see  if  they  could  not  travel  much  farther.  The 
brethren  returned  about  3:30  and  reported  that  they  found  a 
good  camp  ground  about  three  and  one-half  miles  ahead,  where 
there  was  three  wagons  encamped,  Brother  Goddard,  Father 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 99 

Case  and  William  Smoot,  who  remained  behind  in  consequence 
of  sickness. 

We  started  about  4:30  and  traveled  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  and  began  to  ascend  a  long  winding  hill,  the  road  bending 
to  the  south;  we  then  descended  a  hill  which  was  very  rough. 
We  passed  over  a  number  of  steep  pitches,  the  road  bending  to 
the  west  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  to  the  south  again. 
We  then  came  to  a  beautiful  stream,  about  two  rods  wide  and 
eighteen  inches  deep,  which  we  crossed  twice  in  traveling  about 
one-fourth  of  a  mile,  and  encamped  on  its  banks.  The  feed  is 
good  here,  and  the  banks  of  the  stream  are  lined  with  willows. 
It  is  reported  that  Brother  Pratt 's  company  is  about  eight 
miles  ahead,  and  Brother  G.  A.  Smith's  wagon  is  broke  down. 
For  about  five  miles,  it  is  said,  the  road  is  very  bad.  We 
traveled  today  twelve  and  one-half  miles. 

Wednesday,  July  21st. — The  morning  was  warm  and  pleas- 
ant. Brother  Young  was  not  able  to  travel  today,  being  much 
fatigued  by  yesterday's  travel.  Brothers  Kimbail,  Benson  and 
L.  Young  rode  out  to  survey  the  country,  and  returned  this 
afternoon.  They  had  been  to  the  canyon,  which  is  about  seven 
and  one-half  miles  from  here.  The  stream  that  we  ai'e  en- 
camped on.  I  understand,  is  Ogden's  fork  (*East  Canyon  creek). 
Its  course  here  is  about  north,  but  a  short  distance  below,  it 
turns  suddenly  to  the  west,  and  runs  between  two  mountains, 
for  a  half  mile  it  is  very  narrow.  The  brethren  went  down  it 
about  half  way  on  foot  and  could  not  go  any  further.  The  water 
rushes  between  the  rocks,  and  some  places  under  them,  and  is 
six  or  eight  feet  deep  in  places.  President  Young  is  much  bet- 
ter this  evening,  and  will  probably  be  able  to  travel  tomorrow. 
Father  Sherwood  and  the  other  brethren  that  are  sick  are  much 
better.  I  spent  part  of  this  afternoon  washing  clothes.  Brother 
Biard  and  myself  stood  guard  the  better  part  of  the  night,  last 
night. 

Thursday,  July  22nd. — The  morning  was  cloudy.  President 
Young  is  some  better,  and  Father  Sber\vood  is  doing  well.  About 
7:30  we  again  proceeded  on  our  journey,  about  a  south  course, 
and  traveled  about  two  miles  when  Father  Case  rode  up  and 
reported  that  one  of  his  wagon  wheels  had  broken  down.  About 
a  mile  further  we  stopped.  I  went  back  in  company  with 
Brothers  Kimbail  and  B^son  to  help  Father  Case  up.  Brother 
Kimbail  cut  a  pole  and  we  lashed  it  under  the  axletree,  and  put 
Brother  Benson's  horse  ahead  of  the  others  and  hauled  him  up. 
We  had  a  light  shower  this  forenoon.  The  brethren  took  out 
most  of  Father  Case's  load  and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
having  crossed  Ogden's  fork  four  times  this  forenoon.  The 


100 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


road  is  stoney  and  rough.  This  afternoon  we  crossed  the  stream 
seven  times,  the  road  winding  through  a  long  narrow  ravine, 
and  over  hills,  and  through  dense  thickets  of  willows  and  cot- 
tonwood  groves.  We  came  about  eight  miles  and  crossed  a  very 
bad  slough.  One  of  Brother  Young's  horses  mired  down.  He 
had  to  unhitch  him  to  get  him  out. 

We  then  ascended  a  steep  hill  and  found  a  billet,  lett  by 
Brother  Pratt,  which  read  as  follows:  "July  20th,  Canyon 
Creek,  Tuesday  morning:  To  Willard  Richards,  G.  A.  Smith  or 
any  of  the  Saints:  From  this  point  it  is  five  miles  west  to  the 


Aspen   Forest  In  Wasatch   Ranee. 

summit  of  the  dividing  ridge.  The  road  will  be  of  a  moderate 
descent,  and  considerable  better  than  the  one  you  have  passed 
over  for  a  fejw  miles  back.  The  ravine  up  which  you  will  go 
is  without  water,  except  two  or  three  small  springs,  which 
soon  loose  themselves  beneath  the  soil.  You  will  pass  through 
groves  of  quaking  asp,  balsam,  and  cottonwood,  more  than  you 
have  seen  for  many  days.  From  the  dividing  ridge,  you  will 
make  a  more  rapid  descent.  The  hill  for  a  short  distance  will 
be  quite  steep,  though  straight  and  smooth.  We  have  descended 
worse  since  we  left  Fort  Bridger.  You  will  go  down  about  six 
miles  when  you  will  find  a  camping  place,  the  grass  being 
middling  good.  You  will  find  a  small  spring  about  100  rods 
after  leaving  the  dividing  ridge,  which  soon  loses  itself  in  the 
soil.  The  bed  of  the  stream  remains  mostly  dry  for  two  or 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 101 

three  miles,  where  you  will  strike  a  stream  nearly  one-third 
as  large  as  the  one  where  I  leave  this  note.  Your  road  in 
descending  will  lead  through  quite  a  timbered  forest,  of  prin- 
cipally aspens,  but  some  underwood  of  oak  and  small  maple. 
The  soil  is  extremely  rich.  About  one  and  one-half  miles  be- 
yond the  camping  ground,  above  mentioned,  you  will  find  quite 
a  lengthy  hill,  to  avoid  passing  through  a  rough  rocky  canyon. 
You  will  then  descend  in  a  ravine  for  three  or  four  miles  onto 
a  broad  and  comparatively  level  valley,  and  which  is  probablj" 
an  arm  of  prairie,  putting  up  among  the  mountains  from  the 
western  outlet.  Most  respectfully — Orson  Pratt." 

"Elders  Amasa  Lyman,  Charles  C.  Rich,  and  the  saints:  I 
leave  you  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  Orson  Pratt  found  at  this 
camping  ground,  for  your  benefit  and  guidance.  Yours  very 
truly,  Thomas  Bullock,  Clerk  of  Pioneer  Camp." 

We  then  descended  a  steep  hill  and  encamped  on  the  banks 
of  Ogden's  fork  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  where  we 
found  the  letter,  having  traveled  seven  and  .one-half  miles.  The 
sick  are  getting  better  this  evening. 

Friday,  July  23rd. — The  morning1  was  warm  and  pleasant, 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  about  6 :45,  the  road  leaving 
the  stream  here  and  turning  short  to  the  west,  and  passing  up 
a  ravine,  about  a  west  course  over  a  gradual  ascent.  The  road 
is  rough,  rocky,  and  sideling  in  many  places,  and  leads  through 
dense  thickets  of  underbrush,  and  quite  a  forest  of  hemlock  and 
poplar  trees.  At  length,  after  traveling  about  four  miles,  we 
attained  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Here  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  snowy  mountains  and  the  open  country  in  the  distance.  We 
have  passed  two  or  three  springs  during  our  travel  this  fore- 
noon. We  have  begun  to  descend  a  long  steep  hill  (*Big  moun- 
tain), part  of  the  way  we  had  to  chain  both  wheels.  The  descent 
is  winding  over  a  rough  road,  there  being  many  stumps  to 
annoy  us. 

About  half  way  dowTu  Brother  L.  Young's  ox  wagon  turned 
over.  His  two  little  boys  were  in  the  wagon  at  the  time,  but 
providentially  escaped  uninjured,  though  part  of  the  load,  hav- 
ing been  disarranged,  rolled  upon  them,  stopping  up  the 
entrance,  but  they  were  liberated  by  cutting  a  hole  in  the  wagon 
cover. 

As  we  descended,  the  road  bearing  to  the  south,  we  crossed 
a  small  stream  six  times,  which  ran  along  the  base  of  the  hill 
through  a  ravine  (*Parley's  canyon),  and  after  having  come 
six  and  one-half  miles  down  a  gradual  descent  we  encamped 
on  an  open  area  of  ground,  spoken  of  by  Orson  Pratt,  as  being 
an  arm  of  prairie,  putting  up  among  the  mountains  from  the 


102  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

western  outlet,  about  12  o'clock,  having  come  this  forenoon  about 
eight  and  one-half  miles. 

While  we  were  stopped  here,  J.  Pack  and  Joseph  Mathews 
rode  up  on  horseback.  They  reported  both  companies  of  the 
brethren  to  be  about  fourteen  miles  ahead,  encamped  in  a  valley 
about  twenty-five  miles  from  Salt  Lake,  which  could  be 
seen  in  the  distance  to  the  northwest.  When  they  left  this 
morning  the  brethren  were  preparing  to  move  four  miles 
farther,  and  then  stop  and  commence  planting.  They  say  the 
soil  is  very  rich  and  fertile.  They  also  brought  a  letter  from 
O.^  Pratt,  G.  A.  Smith  and  W.  Richards  to  President  Young, 
giving  an  account  of  the  road  arid  the  general  features  of  the 
country,  etc. 

After  a  halt  of  about  two  hours  we  again  proceeded  on  our 
journey,  going  south  of  west  a  short  distance,  the  valley  be- 
coming more  confined  in  its  limits  as  we  advanced,  until  Ave 
began  to  ascend  a  long  steep  hill,  which  is  about  one  and  one- 
half  miles  to  the  top.  Here  Brothers  Pack  and  Mathews  left 
us  and  went  ahead.  We  began  to  descend  a  long  steep  hill 
(*Little  mountain),  bearing  a  southwest  course.  The  most  of 
the  way  we  had  to  chain  both  wheels.  As  we  descended  the 
above  hill  we  saw  an  abundance  of  service  berries.  At  5  p.  m. 
we  encamped  at  the  base  of  the  hill,  on  the  banks  of  a  small 
clear  stream  of  cool  water  (*Emigration  Canyon  creek).  Its 
banks  are  thickly  skirted  with  quaking  asp  and  cottonwood 
trees.  We  have  come  this  afternoon  three  miles,  and  during 
the  day  eleven  and  one-half  miles. 

A  short  time  after  our  arrival  at  this  place,  the  sky  be- 
came overcast  with  clouds,  and  a  strong  wind,  setting  in  from 
the  southwest,  gives  the  appearance  of  a  very  heavy  storm.  The 
grass  here  is  rather  tall  and  rank,  though  in  places  is  pretty 
good.  The  sick  are  gaining  strength  as  fast  as  could  be  ex- 
pected, considering  the  fatigue  of  the  journey.  The  day  has 
been  the  hottest  we  have  experienced  since  we  left  Winter 
Quarters.  There  was  not  a  breath  of  air  in  the  ravine,  and 
the  dust  was  almost  suffocating. 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST  103 


SEC.  III.— WHAT  WAS  DONE  AT  SALT  LAKE  AND 
EETURN  TRIP. 

Saturday,  July  24th. — The  morning  was  pleasant.  In  get- 
ting up  our  horses  we  discovered  that  some  were  missing,  t^vo 
of  Brother  Whitney's  and  two  of  Brother  Smoot's.  The  camp 
started,  leaving  Brothers  Whitney's  and  Smoot's  wagons  be- 
hind. I  rode  ahead  about  a  mile  and  could  not  find  them,  nor 
see  any  tracks.  I  then  returned  and  went  back  about  three 
miles  and  found  them.  After  I  got  to  the  wagons,  Brother 
Whitney  and  I  got  on  our  horses  and  rode  ahead.  The  road 
was  rough  and  uneven,  winding  along  a  narrow  ravine,  cross- 
ing the  small  stream,  which  we  last  encamped  on,  about  fif- 
teen or  twenty  times.  We  then  left  the  ravine  and  turned  to 
the  right  and  ascended  a  very  steep  pitch,  where  we  beheld 
the  great  valley  of  the  Salt  Lake  spreading  out  before  us. 

My  heart  felt  truly  glad,  and  I  rejoiced  at  having  the 
privilege  of  beholding  this  extensive  and  beautiful  valley,  that 
may  yet  become  a  home  for  the  Saints.  From  this  point  we 
could  see  the  blue  waters  of  the  Salt  Lake.  By  ascending  one 
of  the  ridges  at  the  mouth  of  this  canyon,  the  view  over  the 
valley  is  at  once  pleasing  and  interesting.  These  high  moun- 
tains on  the  east  side,  extending  to  the  head  of  the  valley, 
about  fifty  miles  to  the  south,  many  of  them  white  on  the  tops 
axid  crevises  with  snow.  At  the  south  end  is  another  moun- 
tain, which  bounds  the  valley  in  that  direction,  and  at  its  west- 
ern extremity  it  is  joined  by  another  range,  forming  its  west- 
em  boundary  to  the  valley  and  extending  in  a  northerly  direc- 
tion until  it  ceases  abruptly  nearly  west  of  this  place.  The 
valley  between  these  mountains  is  judged  to  be  twenty-five  to 
thirty  miles  wide  at  the  north  end  of  the  last  mentioned  moun- 
tain. The  level  valley  extends  to  the  Salt  Lake,  which  is  plainly 
visible  for  many  miles  in  a  western  direction  from  this  place. 

In  the  lake,  and  many  miles  beyond  this  valley,  are  two 
mountains  projecting  high  in  the  air.  forming  a  solemn  but 
pleasing  contrast  with  the  dark  blue  waters  of  the  lake.  Be- 
yond these  two  mountains  and  in  the  distance,  in  a  direction 
between  them,  is  another  hiirh  dark  mountain,  supposed  to  be 
on  the  western  boundary  of  the  lake,  and  judged  to  be  eighty 


104 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

to  one  hundred  miles  from  here.  At  this  distance  we  can  see, 
apparently,  but  a  small  surface  of  the  water,  extending  between 
this  valley  and  the  mountains  referred  to,  but  that  surface  is 
probably  thirty  miles  wide.  Looking  to  the  northwest,  another 
mountain  appears,  extending  to  the  north  till  hidden  by  the 
eastern  range.  At  the  base  of  this  mountain  is  a  long  ridge 
of  white  substance,  which  from  its  bright  shining  appearance 
is  doubtless  salt,  and  was  probably  caused  by  the  dashing  of 
the  waves,  and  then  hardened  by  the  sun. 

The  whole  surface  of  the  valley  appears,  from  here,  to  be 
level  and  beautiful.  The  distance  from  here  to  the  lake  is 
juflged  to  be  forty  to  fifty  miles.  Throughout  the  whole  ex- 
tent of  the  valley  can  be  seen  very  many  green  patches  of 
rich  looking  grass,  which  no  doubt  lays  on  the  banks  of  creeks 
and  streams.  There  is  some  little  timber  also  on  the  streams, 
and  in  the  direction  of  the  great  lake  many  small  lakes  appear 
upon  the  surface,  the  waters  of  which  are  doubtless  salty. 
From  a  careful  view  of  the  appearance  of  the  valley  from  this 
place,  it  cannot  be  concluded  to  be  otherwise  than  rich  and 
very  fertile. 

After  leaving  the  canyon  about  two  miles  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  other  camps,  a  few  miles  to  the  west.  Proceeding  on 
we  found  the  road  descending  gradually  but  very  rapidly.  At 
11:45  we  arrived  at  the  camp  of  the  brethren,  having  traveled 
nine  and  one-fourth  miles  today,  making  the  total  distance 
from  the  guide  board  at  Pratt 's  Pass  to  this  place  41^  miles, 
and  from  Fort  Bridger  1151/.  miles,  and  from  Fort  John  (*Lar- 
amie).  512^  miles. 

On  our  arrival  among  the  brethren  we  found  them  busily 
engaged  in  plowing  and  planting  potatoes.  They  have  already 
plowed  a  number  of  acres,  and  got  considerable  planted.  Others 
of  the  brethren  are  engaged  in  building  a  dam  on  the  creek  to 
turn  the  water  on  the  land,  so  as  to  supply  the  lack  of  rain 
by  irrigation,  for  which  this  place  is  admirably  adapted,  on 
account  of  the  manv  streams  descending  from  the  mountains. 
The  descent  being  rapid,  the  water  courses  can  easilv  be  turned 
to  any  portion  of  the  land  at  pleasure  and  little  labor. 

About  5  o'clock  this  evening  the  sky  became  overcast  with 
clouds  and  the  rumbling  of  thunder  could  be  heard  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  to  all  appearance  there  was  a  heavy  storm  approach- 
ing. The  wind  blew  up  strong  from  the  southwest,  when  it  be- 
gan to  rain,  the  wind  changing  to  the  north,  but  the  heaviest 
of  the  storm  passed  to  the  southwest  of  us.  Notwithstanding, 
we  had  a  sufficient  rain  to  moisten  the  soil,  which  is  quite  en- 
couraging to  us. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 105 

This  valley  is  bounded  by  high  mountains,  some  of  them 
covered  with  snow,  and  from  what  knowledge  we  have  of  it  at 
present,  this  is  the  most  safe  and  secure  place  the  Saints  could 
possibly  locate  themselves  in.  Nature  has  fortified  this  place 
on  all  sides,  with  only  a  few  narrow  passes,  which  could  be 
made  impregnable  without  much  difficulty.  The  scarcity  of 
timber  has,  probably  been  the  reason  that  this  beautiful  valley 
has  not  been  settled  long  since  by  the  Gentiles.  But  I  think 
we  can  find  sufficient  timber  up  the  creeks  for  present  purposes, 
and  also  coal  in  the  mountains.  The  saints  have  reason  to 
rejoice,  and  thank  the  Lord  for  this  'goodly  land  unpopulated 
bv  the  Gentiles. 


Result  of  This   First   Start   of  Irrigation. 

Sunday,  July  25th. — The  morning  was  warm  and  pleasant, 
and  at  10  o'clock  the  bugle  sounded  for  the  brethren  to  come 
together  for  meeting.  Elders  Kimball,  G.  A.  Smith  and  E.  T. 
Benson  spoke  on  different  subjects  and  gave  some  general  in- 
structions. After  meeting  Brother  Kimball  gave  me  a  list  of 
names  of  persons  which  he  wished  me  to  notify,  and  have  them 
retire  to  a  grove  a  short  distance  from  the  camp.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  list  of  the  names :  William  King,  Hosea  Gushing,  Orson 


106 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 


Whipple.  George  Billings,  Thomas  Cloward,  Robert  Biard,  Carlos 
Murray,  Orson  K.  Whitney,  Hans  C.  Hansen,  Jackson  Reding, 
H.  K.  Whitney,  Philo  Johnson,  Charles  Harper  and  myself. 


Heber    C.    Kimball. 

We  n:et  about  1  p.  m.,  when  Elder  Kimball  addressed  them 
in  substance  as  follows:  Most  of  you  here  present  have  be- 
come adopted  into  my  family,  except  a  very  few  (calling  them 
by  name),  and  Harris,  who  has  become  connected  by  marriage 
with  my  family.  But  I  do  not  care  for  that,  you  are  all  the 
same  to  me,  and  your  interest  is  my  interest,  for  what  is  mine 
is  yours  and  what  is  yours  is  your  own.  If  I  have  the  privilege 
of  building  a  house,  I  want  yon  to  help  me  and  1  will  help 
you.  Harris  will  want  to  build  a  house  for  his  father's  fam- 
ily, if  they  should  come  up,  and  there  is  plenty  of  timber  in 
the  hills.  When  my  family  comes  up,  we  may  conclude  to 


P  I  0  X  E  E  R  I  X  G     THE    W  E  S  T 107 

settle  somewhere  else;  if  so,  there  will  be  plenty  to  buy  us  out, 
if  we  shall  have  made  any  improvements.  I  want  you  all  to 
be  prudent  and  take  care  of  your  horses  and  cattle,  and  every- 
thing entrusted  to  your  care.  It  would  be  a  good  plan  and 
probably  will  be  clone,  for  those  who  stay  here,  to  go  back 
on  the  Sweet  Water  and  kill  buffalos  for  winter  consumption. 
We  shall  go  tomorrow,  if  Brigham  is  well  enough,  in  search  of 
a  better  location  if.  indeed,  such  can  be  found.  If  not,  we  shall 
remain  here.  There  should  be  an  enclosure  made  for  the  pur- 
pose of  keeping  our  horses  and  cattle  in  nights,  for  there  are 
plenty  of  Indians  in  the  vicinity.  1  should  advise  you  to 
keep  the  Sabbath  day  holy,  whether  others  do  or  not.  I  want 
you  to  put  all  the  seed  into  the  ground  that  you  think  will 
•come  to  maturity.  I  am  satisfied  that  buckwheat  will  do  as 
well  here  as  any  other  seed  we  can  sow.  I  want  also  some 
peach  stones  and  apple  seeds  to  be  planted  forthwith.  Brothers 
Biard  and  Hanson  I  would  like  to  have  immediately  engaged  in 
making  garments  of  buckskins,  and  Brother  Cloward  in  mak- 
ing slices,  and  Brother  Johnson  in  making  hats  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. 

If  you  wish  to  go  hunting,  fishing',  or  to  see  the  country, 
select  a  week-day  for  that  purpose.  Do  not  let  us  get  giddy  and 
light-minded,  as  the  Xephites  did  of  old,  but  strive  to  work 
'righteousness  in  the  beginning,  inasmuch  as  we  have  reached 
"the  promised  land."  If  it  is  advisable  to  work  in  a  family 
capacity  we  will  do  so,  and,  if  in  a  Church  capacity,  we  should 
be  equally  willing  to  do  that.  I  am  going  out  on  a  scout  with 
the  brethren  and  I  shall  probably  want  one  or  two  of  you  to 
go  with  me.  and  also  one  or  two  wagons.  I  am  not  going  to 
take  anything  back  with  me  to  Wniter  Quarters,  only  what  is 
really  necessary.  Even  some  of  my  clothes  I  shall  leave  be- 
hind. I  shall  leave  Bishop  Whipple  with  you.  He  is  quite  a 
steady  and  economical  man,  and  as  such  I  recommend  him  to 
you.  I  want  every  man  to  be  as  industrious  as  possible  while 
I  am  gone,  and  get  into  the  ground  all  the  turnips,  cabbage 
and  other  seeds  yon  can. 

In  case  a  storm  of  snow  should  come  on,  it  would  be  ad- 
visable to  drive  all  the  cattle  among  the  willows,  where  they 
can  remain  till  the  snow  goes  off.  I  want  you  all  to  work  to- 
gether until  such  time  shall  come  that  every  man  shall  have 
his  inheritance  set  off  to  him.  I  feel  toward  you  as  a  father 
toward  his  children,  and  I  want  you  to  banish  .all  peevishness 
from  among  your  midst  and  accommodate  yourselves  as  much 
as  possible  to  each  other's  wishes.  I  have  it  to  say;  my  boys 
have  been  faithful  to  their  various  duties  on  this  journey,  and 


108 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

other  people  have  noticed  it  and  expressed  their  opinions,  that 
they  never  saw  such  an  attentive  set  of  men  in  their  lives,  and 
I  consider  their  conduct  is  worthy  of  imitation.  I  want  you  to 
be  sober  and  prayerful,  and  remember  me  and  my  family  in 
your  prayers. ' ' 

A  number  of  other  good  ideas  were  advanced  by  Brother 
Kimball  of  an  edifying  nature,  and  then  he  closed  the  meeting 
by  prayer.  At  2  p.  m.  we  all  retired  separately  to  the  camp, 
having  enjoyed  one  of  the  happiest  and  best  meetings  we  have 
had  for  a  long  time.  A  meeting  was  again  held  this  afternoon 
in  the  circle.  The  brethren  were  successively  addressed  by 
Elders  Woodruff,  Pratt  and  W.  Richards  on  subjects  of  a  gen- 
eral nature,  and  in  particular,  the  good  fortune  that  had  attended 
our  safe  arrival  at  this  place  without  the  loss  of  any  indi- 
vidual bv  deatli  or  otherwise  on  the  road.  Brother  Young 
advised  the  brethren  to  tie  up  their  horses  every  night.  About 
6  p.  m.  the  meeting1  was  dismissed. 

Brother  Young  called  the  attention  of  the  brethren  a  few 
moments.  He  said  he  hoped  all  those  who  had  found  articles 
of  any  description  on  the  road  would  make  it  known,  that  the 
owners  might  get  them.  He  said  a  dishonest  man  was  a  curse  to 
the  saints,  and  he  might  live  with  them  969  years  and  go  to 
hell  and  be  damned  at  last.  He  said  that  if  a  man  retained 
anything  which  did  not  belong  to  him,  it  would  leak  out  in  the 
course  of  time,  and  it  would  prove  a  curse  to  him,  and  would 
be  a  stain  on  him  and  his  posterity  that  never  would  be  wiped 
out  in  time  and  throughout  all  eternity,  and  the  stain  never 
would  be  wiped  out  until  it  "was  burned  out  in  hell. 

Monday,  July  26th. — The  morning  wa^  somewhat  cloudy, 
and  at  6  a.  m.  the  bugle  sounded  for  the  brethren  to  collect 
their,  horses  and  cattle  to  recommence  plowing  and  planting,  the 
teams  to  be  relieved  at  intervals  of  every  four  hours  during  the 
day.  Fifteen  men  were  selected  to  go  and  make  a  road  through 
a  defile  in  the  mountains,  where  we  expected  to  find  timber  for 
building.  We  put  up  our  tent  this  morning,  in  the  grove  where 
we  had  our  meeting  yesterday,  for  the  brethren  to  work  in. 
Brother  Biard  has  commenced  making  a  pair  of  pants  for  me 
out  of  buckskins,  and  Brother  Cloward  is  mending  the  Elders 
shoes. 

President  Young,  Kimball  and  others  rode  this  afternoon 
to  view  the  country.  They  went  up  a  hgh  mountain  about  three 
miles  from  the  camp,  which  is  about  northwest  from  here.  They 
appeared  to  be  delighted  with  the  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  on  their  return.  Elder  Kimball  missed  his  spy  glass 
and  returned  back  in  search  of  it,  accompanied  by  Brothers 


PIG  X  BERING      THE      WEST 109 

Benson  and  Richards.     He  went  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  in 
search  of  his  glass,  but  could  not  find  it. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  a  hot  spring,  where  Brothers 
Benson  and  Richards  bathed.  They  report  it  to  be  as  hot  as 
they  could  bear.  Brothers  Clayton  and  G.  A.  Smith  went  about 
two  miles  further  than  the  brethren  and  came  to  a  stream 
(Mordan  river),  about  5  or  6  rods  wide  and  about  3\2  feet  deep, 
which  comes  from  the  south  end  of  the  valley  and  runs  into  the 
Salt  Lake.  Brothers  J.  Brown  and  J.  Mathews  started  out 
early  this  morning  to  explore  the  country.  They  returned  this 
evening  and  reported  that  they  had  been  on  the  mountain  that  is 
southwest  of  us.  They  found  a  horse  near  the  mountain,  about 
six  years  old,  and  brought  him  to  the  camp.  Elder  Kimball 
found  his  spy  glass  as  he  returned  home. 

Tuesday,  July  27th. — The  morning  was  warm,  but  some- 
what cloudy.  The  bugle  sounded  as  usual  for  the  brethren  to 
go  to  work,  plowing  and  planting.  There  was  a  small  company 
sent  back  on  the  road  five  or  six  miles  with  two  wagons  to  get 
logs  to  saw  up  to  make  a  boat.  Soon  after  breakfast  two 
Indians  of  the  Eutaw  (Utah)  tribe  came  to  camp.  They  were 
somewhat  slightly  clad  in  skins,  and  are  quite  small  in  stature. 
J.  Redding  exchanged  a  gun  writh  one  of  them  for  a  horse. 
Brother  G.  R.  Grant  also  exchanged  a  gun  for  a  pony.  They  f 
gave  us  to  understand  by  signs,  that  there  was  a  large  party 
of  them  about  forty  miles  from  here. 

The  Twelve  and  some  others  started  on  an  exploring  ex- 
pedition this  morning.  Before  they  got  out  of  sight  three 
horsemen  were  seen  coming  toward  the  camp.  Brother  Kimball 
waited  a  few  minutes  until  they  arrived.  It  proved  to  be 
Brothers  Amasa  Lyman,  Brannon,  J.  Stevens  and  Rodney 
Badger.  They  report  the  Battalion  to  be  about  two  days' 
journey  from  here.  Brothers  Lyman  and  Brannon  joined  the 
expedition.  This  afternoon  five  or  six  more  Indians  came  into 
camp,  and  staid  all  night. 

Before  Brother  Kimball  left  he  informed  me,  that  Brother 
Briffham  was  going  to  move  his  wagons  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  northwest,  and  he  wanted  me  to  move  three  of  our  wagons 
also.  Soon  after  they  started  I  commenced  hauling  the  wagons 
up.  crossing  a  small  stream  and  encamped  on  the  banks  of 
another  stream  (City  creek).  We  also  moved  our  tent  up  this 
evening,  and  I  hauled  Brother  Benson's  wagon  up.  Dr.  Richards 
is  also  going  to  move  up,  which  will  make  quite  a  number. 

The  brethren  are  all  busily  engaged,  plowing  and  planting. 
Elder  Kimball  keeps  an  ox  team  and  a  four  mule  team  plowing, 
and  is  going  to  start  another  four  mule  team.  Brother  Gushing 


110  PIONEERING    THE    WEST  _ 

and  Brother  Johnson  are  plowing  today.  Brothers  Whipple  and 
Billings  are  planting.  Brother  King  accompanied  the  expedition. 
Brothers  Cloward  and  Baird  and  Hanson  are  at  their  usual 
occupation.  Brother  Clayton  is  engaged  in  writing  up  H.  C. 
Kimball's  journal.  Brother  C.  Murray  is  waiting  on  Ellen 
(Saunders).  There  are  five  prairie  teams  kept  constantly 
plowing  and  three  teams  harrowing.  The  longitude  of  the 
Warm  Springs  is  42  degrees  15  minutes  6  seconds. 

Wednesday,  July  28th.  —  The  morning  was  warm  and  pleas- 
ant, and  the  brethren  were  engaged  in  plowing  as  usual.     This 


Kxact    Size,   Facsimile   of   July   28th,    1847,   as   Written    by    Howard 
i:u:m    in    Mix    Diary,    the    Original    of    Which    We    Have. 

morning  Brother  Redding  and  myself  harnessed  up  a  mule  that 
never  had  been  worked,  in  order  to  brake  him  in  so  he  could  be 
used  to  plow.  He  worked  very  well,  and  we  hauled  some  poles 
to  make  a  bowery  over  our  wagons.  Last  night  I  was  out  late 
hunting  our  horses,  and  I  took  supper  with  Brother  Redding 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 111 

and  lodged  with  him.  Brother  Brannon  returned  this  afternoon 
and  reported  that  the  Twelve  were  on  their  way  back  to  camp. 
Brother  Joseph  Hancock  brought  in  a  deer,-  which  he  killed 
today,  to  camp. 

The  brethren  of  the  Twelve  arrived  at  the  camp  this  evening 
very  much  fatigued  by  their  journey.  They  report  seeing  a 
number  of  large  caves  in  the  rocks  along  the  mountains,  one 
of  which  they  could  ride  their  horses  in  forty  or  fifty  feet. 
They  also  saw  a  number  of  wild  goats.  Brother  Woodruff  lost 
his  whip,  and  went  back  about  three  miles,  and  saw  a  party  of 
Indians  a  short  distance  off.  One  of  them  rode  up  to  him  and 
shook  hands  with  him,  and  made  signs  that  they  were  going  to 
the  north  part  of  the  lake.  The  brethren  bathed  in  the  lake, 
the  waters  of  which  are  so  extremely  salt  that  a  man  could  not 
sink  in  it,  if  he  should  try.  On  the  margin  is  vast  quantities 
of  salt  of  a  superior  quality,  a  sample  of  which  Brother  Young 
brought  home  with  him.  They  reported  it  as  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  places  they  had  ever  seen.  I  will  give  a  general  de- 
scription of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  country  hereafter,  as 
I  expect  to  visit  it  before  I  return  to  Winter  Quarters. 

The  brethren  of  the  Twelve  wished  me  to  notify  Brother 
Markham  to  have  the  brethren  meet  close  by  our  camp  at  8 
o'clock  this  evening.  They  Avere  addressed  by  President  Young 
pertaining  to  our  locating  here.  He  said  he  wanted  the  brethren 
to  express  their  feelings  on  the  subject.  Many  of  the  brethren 
did  so,  and  were  in  favor  of  settling  here.  It  was  moved  and 
seconded  that  we  should  locate  in  this  valley  for  the  pr-esent, 
and  lay  out  a  city  at  this  place;  which  was  carried  without  a 
dissenting  voice.  It  was  also  voted  that  the  Twelve  act  as  a 
committee  to  superintend  the  laying  out  of  the  city,  etc.,  the 
plan  of  which  I  will  give  in  another  place.  President  Young 
expressed  his  feelings  warmly  to  the  brethren  on  different  sub- 
jects. He  was  filled  with  the  Spirit  of  God  and  spoke  with 
power,  which  caused  the  brethren  to  rejoice. 

Thursday,  July  29th. — The  morning  was  warm  with  a  strong 
wind  blowing  from  the  southeast.  Last  night  C.  Murray  and 
myself  slept  in  the  tent,  and  the  wind  became  so  violent  we 
were  under  the  necessity  of  striking  our  tent  (lowering  it).  This 
forenoon  we  moved  our  other  three  wagons  up  to  where  we  are 
encamped.  The  Twelve  and  some  others,  rode  out  this  morning 
to  meet  the  detachment  commanded  by  Captain  Brown.  Brothers 
Whipple,  King  and  myself  engaged  in  sowing  seeds  in  a  garden 
spot  about  three  miles  southeast  of  the  camp.  This  afternoon 
we  had  a  heavy  shower,  which  wet  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  about 


112 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

three  inches.     Soon  after  the  shower  was  over  Captain  Brown's 
company  came  in  sight. 

I  understand  that  ther  is  fourteen  government  wagons,  and 
twenty  wagons  that  belong  to  the  Mississippi  company,  who 
wintered  at  Pueblo.  Brother  Kimball  informed  me  that  the 
slight  rain  we  had  raised  the  water  in  the  canyon  so  high  that 
some  of  the  wagons  could  not  cross  for  some  time.  The  Bat- 
talion detachment  has  encamped  on  the  other  side  of  the  creek 
between  the  two  camps.  Brothers  Cashing  and  Billings  are  en- 
gaged in  plowing,  Brother  Philo  Johnson  is  also  engaged  in 
farming.  The  other  boys  are  engaged  at  their  usual  occupations. 
After  supper  Brother  Kimball  asked  me  to  come  into  his  wa<ron, 
.and  read  the  minutes  of  last  Sunday's  meeting,  after  which 
Brothers  Kimball,  Whipple  and  myself  took  a  walk.  We  had 
.a  very  pleasant  evening's  conversation,  then  joined  in  prayer 
arid  returned  to  camp  about  11  p.  m.  The  evening  was  pleasant. 

Friday,  July  30th. — The  brethren  were  engaged  as  usual 
plowing  and  planting.  Brothers  Whipple,  King,  Redding  and 
myself  went  up  to  the  garden  and  sowed  some  more  seeds.  We 
have  put  in  a  few  of  almost  all  kinds  of  seeds.  This  afternoon 
the  Twelve  and  officers  of  the  Battalion,  with  some  others  rode 
out  as  far  as  the  Hot  Springs.  They  had  been  in  council  about 
three  hours.  There  is  an  appointment  given  out  for  a  meeting 
this  evening  at  7  o'clock  at  the  upper  camp.  Brother  H.  K. 
Whitney  moved  his  wagons  up  to  our  camp  this  evening.  I  have 
tried  on  a  pair  of  buckskin  pants  made  by  Brother  Bainl.  which 
are  the  neatest  and  the  best  fit  I  ever  had.  All  the  brethren, 
including  those  who  belong  to  the  Battalion,  met  according  1<> 
previous  appointment,  near  our  camp.  The  brethren  were  ad- 
dressed by  President  Young  in  his  usual  interesting  and  in- 
structive manner.  The  meetng  was  opened  by  a  Honsannah  to 
God,  three  times. 

He  addressed  the  brethren  of  the  Battalion  very  warm  and 
affectionately.  He  said  tl>e  council  had  proffered  their  assist- 
ance to  the  government  to  go  to  California,  but  they  were  always 
silent  on  the  subject,  until  they  heard  we  were  driven  from  our 
homes  and  scattered  on  the  prairie.  Then  they  made  a  demand 
for  five  hundred  men,  that  they  might  have  women  and  children 
to  suffer,  and,  if  we  had  not  complied  with  the  requisition,  thev 
would  have  treated  us  as  enemies,  and  the  next  move  would 
have  been  to  have  let  Missouri  and  the  adjoining  states  loose  on 
us,  and  wipe  us  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  This  is  what  they 
had  in  comtemplation,  and  your  going  into  the  armv  has  saved 
the  lives  of  thousands  of  people,  etc.  President  Young  requested 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 113 

the  brethren  of  the  Battalion  to  turn  out  tomorrow  and  build  a 
bowery  to  hold  our  meeting's  in. 

Saturday,  July  31st. — The  weather  was  pleasant,  and  the 
brethren  were  engaged  at  their  usual  occupations.  Brothers 
King,  Whipple  and  myself  were  sowing  turnips,  buckwheat,  oats, 
etc.  The  brethren  of  the  Battalion  are  engaged  in  building  the 
bowery,  at  the  spot  where  the  brethren  first  commenced  plowing. 
Brother  Marlvham  thinks  there  is  about  fifty  acres  plowed,  and 
the  most  of  it  is  planted.  At  the  garden  spot  there  is  about  ten 
acres  plowed  and  nearl3'  all  sowed.  We  have  sowed  for  Brother 
Kimball's  family  three  acres  of  buckwheat,  one  acre  of  corn,  one 
acre  of  oats,  half  an  acre  of  turnips,  one-fourth  acre  of  different 
kinds  of  seeds,  and  one  bushel  of  potatoes. 

Brothers  G.  Billings  and  Pack  rode  about  six  miles  back  on 
the  road  that  we  came  on,  and  cut  forty-one  log's  for  building. 
There  is  some  thirty  or  forty  Indians  at  our  camp  today.  There 
was  a  misunderstanding  between  two  of  them  about  a  horse  that 
was  traded  to  one  of  the  brethren  for  a  gun,  when  one  of  them 
struck  the  other  on  the  head  with  his  gun.  One  of  the  old 
Indians,  who  is  supposed  to  be  a  chief,  horsewhipped  both  of 
them.  A  short  time  after,  the  one  that  got  struck  with  the  gun, 
took  one  of  their  horses  and  started  off.  They  saw  him  and 
six  of  them  rode  after  him.  After  they  had  been  gone  a  few 
hours  they  returned  and  made  signs  that  they  had  killed  him. 
They  said  they  had  shot  both  him  and  his  horse. 

Brother  King  and  myself  spent  the  evening  with  the  breth- 
ren of  the  Battalion.  I  learned  that  President  Young  gave  some 
general  instruction  to  the  Battalion  pertaining  to  trading  with 
the  Indians,  and  their  future  course,  etc. 


114  PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


10.— WORK  AT  SALT  LAKE,  START  BACK  AUGUST,  1847. 

Sunday,  August  1st. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  with  a 
strong  breeze  blowing  from  the  northwest.  A  meeting  was  held 
in  the  Bowery,  commencing  at  10  a.  m.,  and  another  this  after- 
noon, commencing  at  2  p.  m.  I  was  absent,  but  learned  after 
that  the  revelation  given  early  last  spring  in  Winter  Quarters, 
was  read  by  Dr.  Richards,  and  a  vote  taken  that  they  would 
abide  by  the  principles  contained  therein.  The  idea  was  sug- 
gested and  finally  adopted  that  we  employ  the  Spanish  mode  of 
building  houses  with  adobies,  clay  or  durt  moulded  and  dried 
in  the  sun. 

Monday,  August  2nd.— It  was  fine  weather  with  a  cool 
breeze  from  the  northeast.  This  morning  William  King,  George 
Billings  and  myself  went  into  the  mountains  with  teams  for 
timber,  with  which  we  returned  about  sunset.  Agreeable  to 
previous  arrangements,  the  two  camps  below  commenced  to  move 
to  this  place.  Prof.  0.  Pratt,  Father  Sherwood  and  others  com- 
menced surveying  the  ground  for  the  city.  Eight  or  nine  men 
were  today  detailed  or  chosen  to  guard  our  cattle  during  our 
stay  here,  who  are  exempt  from  all  other  labors.  The  brethren 
are  principally  engaged  in  plowing,  planting,  sawing  lumber  for 
a  boat,  making  coal  pits,  preparing  to  make  adobies,  etc. 

Brother  E.  T.  Benson,  0.  P.  Rockwell  and  three  others 
started  on  horseback,  about  noon  to  go  back  and  meet  the  next 
company,  expected  soon  from  Winter  Quarters.  Brother  Clayton 
wrote  a  letter  for  Brother  Kimball  to  James  Smithies,  the  sub- 
stance of  which  was,  that  he  wished  him  to  forward  by  the 
bearer  (Brother  Benson)  the  general  news  in  Winter  Quarters, 
particularly  as  regards  his  (Ileber's)  familv,  and  also  all  letters 
that  have  been  written  by  our  friends  from  that  place.  The 
wagons  of  the  three  camps,  including  the  soldiers,  were  all 
formed  into  a  compact  circle,  a  short  distance  from  this  spot. 

Tuesday,  August  3rd. — It  was  warm  and  pleasant  as  usual, 
but  the  last  night  was  the  coolest  one  we  have  experienced  for 
a  long  time.  The  brethren  are  engaged  in  their  usual  occupa- 
tions. Considrable  of  the  corn  and  beans  planted  has  already 
made  its  appearance  above  the  ground,  and  is  in  a  flourshing 
condition.  J.  Redding  and  myself  went  this  morning  with  a  team 
eight  miles  up  the  pass.  Avithin  one  mile  of  the  last  camping 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 115 

place,  where  we  cut  down  and  brought  to  camp,  two  cedars,  for 
the  purpose  of  making:  bedsteads,  pails,  etc.  We  arrived  at 
home  about  9  p.  m.  We  had  quite  a  hard  time  of  it,  the  road 
being  almost  impassable  on  account  of  the  bridges  having 
floated  off. 

President  Young  stated  today,  his  intention  of  having  the 
ox  teams  start  back  on  Monday  next,  and  the  horse  teams  two 
weeks  from  that  time.  L.  B.  Myers  returned  from  the  Eutaw 
(Utah)  Lake  yesterday.  He  reports  it  to  be  about  thirty  miles 
south  of  this  place,  and  that  on  the  east  side  of  it  is  plenty  of 
timber,  which  might  be  easily  floated  down  the  river  to  this 
place,  the  outlet  of  the  lake  being  a  river  passing  near  here. 
A  number  of  huntsmen  have  gone  back,  within  a  day  or  two, 
some  forty  miles  in  pursuit  of  game. 

Wednesday,  August  4th. — The  weather  is  pleasant  with  £ 
slight  breeze  from  the  south.  J.  Redding,  G.  Billings,  H.  Gushing 
and  myself,  with  three  teams,  went  six  miles  to  get  timber.  We 
returned  this  evening  soon  after  dark  with  three  loads  of  good 
logs  (balsam),  got  for  the  purpose  of  building  n  store  house. 
Brothei'  William  Clayton,  with  the  assistance  of  William  King 
and  Orson  (Whitney)  was  engaged  today  in  making  a  new 
Roadometer.  as  he  intends  to  start  back  with  the  ox  teams  on 
Monday  next. 

Brother  Brannon.  J.  C.  Little.  Lieutenant  Willis  and  one 
or  two  others  started  this  morning  on  an  excursion  to  the  south, 
intending  to  go  to  the  Eutaw  (Utah)  Lake.  I  learned  that  a 
case  was  brought  before  the  Twelve  for  trial  today.  It  re- 
ferred to  one  of  the  soldier  brethren,  William  Tubbs,  Avho  was 
accused  of  improper  conduct  with  two  females,  who  accompanied 
the  Battalion.  I  did  not  learn  particulars,  but  understood  that 
the  accused  acknowledged  that  he  had  done  wrong  and  was 
sorry  for  it :  when  the  case  was  dismissed,  and  he  was  told  to 
"go  and  sin  no  more." 

Thursday,  August  5th. — It  was  warm  as  usual.  This  morn- 
ing G.  Billin<rs.  J.  Redding.  H.  Cnshinor.  Andrew  Gibbons,  Philo 
Johnson  and  mvself  a<rain  went  into  the  woods  after  logs  with 
three  teams.  We  returned  toward  niarht.  This  evening  Samuel 
Brannon.  J.  f.  Little,  and  Lieutenant  Willis  returned  from  their 
excursion  to  the  Eutaw  Lake,  of  which  and  the  adjacent  country, 
thev  gave  a  similar  account,  to  that  of  Lewi^  B.  Myers.  During 
their  travel,  about  ten  miles  from  here,  they  saw  Iving  by  the 
side  of  the  trail,  the  dead  bodies  of  two  Indians,  supposed  to 
have  been  killed  in  the  affrav  mentioned  to  have  occurred  on  the 
31st  ult.  They  also  discovered  the  dead  bodv  of  a  horse  with  its 
throat  cut.  some  six  miles  from  here.  This  probably  belonged 


116 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

to  one  of  the  Indians,  and  had  been  first  shot,  Avhile  they  were 
endeavoring  to  make  their  escape.  A  number  of  Indians  came 
into  camp  this  evening  and  stopped  for  the  night. 

Friday,  August  6th. — It  was  warm  and  sultry.  The  brethren 
were  engaged  in  their  usual  avocations.  This  morning  consid- 
erable alarm  was  created  in  the  camp  by  the  report  that  the 
Indians  had  left  during-  the  night  and  taken  with  them  all  our 
loose  horses.  This,  however,  proved  groundless,  as  upon  thorough 
search  the  horses,  supposed  to  be  missing,  were  found.  They 
were  not  easily  seen  from  here  on  account  of  the  high  grass  on 
the  bottoms.  The  preliminary  arrangements,  having  been  com- 
pleted, the  brethren  this  morning  commenced  making  adobies  on 
the  bottoms  a  mile  below  here,  and  during  this  forenoon, 
moulded  and  laid  out  750  of  them.  H.  Gushing,  G.  Billings, 
Andrew  Gibbons  and  myself  with  four  teams  went  after  more 
logs  for  building.  We  got  mostly  balsam  fir  tree  logs,  and  we 
returned  toward  evening. 

Saturday,  August  7th. — The  hounds  to  G.  Billings  wagon 
having  been  broken,  were  repaired  this  morning.  J.  Bedding, 
John  Tibbits,  G.  Billings,  Andrew  Gibbons  and  myself,  with 
three  teams,  again  went  into  the  woods.  We  returned  about 
noon  with  a  quantity  of  poles,  of  which  we  made  a  horse  yard 
this  afternoon  on  Brother  Kimball's  lot,  which  is  situated  on 
the  other  side  of  the  creek,  a  few  rods  hence.  Hosea  Gushing 
made  a  hay  rake  today.  William  King  is  still  engaged  in  con- 
structing a  roadometer  for  Brother  Clayton.  Horace  and  Orson 
(Whitney)  took  their  teams  and  went  up  the  pass,  near  here, 
about  half  a  mile  and  got  a  load  of  bushes,  with  which  to  cover 
the  blacksmith  shop,  the  first  house  built  with  logs,  which  stands 
a  short  distance  from  here. 

Today  a  number  of  brethren  made  a  dam,  a  few  rods  above 
the  wagons,  on  the  small  stream,  which  runs  along  the  north 
side  of  the  camp.  After  this  two  dikes  were  made  communicating 
with  the  dam,  the  water  of  which  will  irrigate  the  whole  camp 
ground,  and  laying  the  dust  renders  everything  more  cool  and 
pleasant.  This  evening  Brother  Kimball  invited  all  the  members 
of  his  family  to  the  dam,  above  here,  where  he  administered  to 
them  the  ordinance  of  baptism.  A  number  of  the  other  brethren, 
making,  I  believe,  fifty-four  in  all,  were  baptized  this  evening 
by  himself  and  others  of  the  quorum  of  the  Twelve. 

Sunday,  August  8th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  with  con- 
siderable of  rain.  The  ceremony  of  baptism  was  recommenced, 
and  all  who  felt  disposed  were  invited  to  come  forward  and 
receive  the  ordinance,  which  they  did  in  great  numbers,  both 
men  and  women.  A  number  of  Indians  again  made  their  ap- 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 


117 


pearanee  in  the  camp  this  morning.  They  came  for  the  purpose 
of  reclaiming  a  horse,  one  of  them  had  sold  to  Brother  J.  Han- 
cock for  a  gun,  which  the  Indian  had  some  way  broken  by  acci- 
dent and  still  wished  to  keep  it.  By  the  president's  advise, 
Brother  Hancock  refused  to  give  up  the  horse,  for,  if  we  yielded 
to  their  claim  in  this  instance,  we  might  make  up  our  minds  to 
submit  in  future  to  every  other  demand  they  might  make,  of  a 
like  nature. 


First   He 


in   Salt  Lake  City. 


A  meeting  was  held  in  the  Bowery,  commencing  at  10  a.  in. 
Brother  Kimball  first  addressed  the  congregation,  exhorting 
them  to  abide  by  their  covenants,  and  to  the  observance  of 
various  duties  devolving  upon  them  as  saints  of  God.  He  was 
followed  by  Elder  Woodruff,  who  gave  them  a  good  deal  of  good 
instruction  and  advice  of  a  like  nature,  and  the  meeting  was 
dismissed  at  noon,  being  adjourned  until  2  p.  m.  A  council  of 
the  Twelve  was  held  in  a  tent  near  here,  at  which  an  "Epistle 
of  the  Twelve"  to  the  Battalion  and  the  saints  in  California 
was  read.  This  is  to  be  transmitted  by  Elder  Samuel  Brannon, 
who  starts  on  his  return  tomorrow. 


118 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

Meeting  held  pursuant  to  adjournment  at  2  p.  m.  There 
were  present  of  the  quorum  of  the  Twelve:  President  Youug, 
H.  C.  Kimball,  Willard  Richards.  W.  Woodruff  and  0.  Pratt. 
Sacrament  was  administererd,  during  which  time  Brother 
Lorenzo  Young  made  some  remarks,  after  which  Brother  Kimball 
arose  and  said:  "There  is  some  business  to  bring  before  the 
brethren.  First — In  regard  to  building  the  stockade  of  adobies; 
and  now  the  idea  js  to  call  out  a  company  of  men  to  be  under  a 
leader,  who  shall  attend  to  that  business.  Sixty  to  hoke,  twelve 
to  mould  and  twenty  to  put  up  Avails.  I  think  it  best  to  beat 
up  for  volunteers."  The  names  of  seventy-six  were  taken 
as  volunteers. 

President  Young  said:  "We  now  propose  to  put  up  some 
log  houses,  and  plaster  them  up  outside,  perhaps  build  one  side 
•with  logs."  Brother  Kimball  moved  that  we  put  the  log  houses 
on  the  line — seconded  and  carried.  Brother  Robert  Crow  moved 
that  we  have  four  gates,  one  on  each  side — seconded  and  carried. 
President  Young  said:  "We  want  five  or  six  men  to  assist 
Father  Sherwood  in  surveying  the  city.  Every  man  shall  be 
credited  what  he  does  on  the  adobie  houses,  and  then  when  others 
come  in,  they  shall  pay  the  price  for  it.  We  expect  every  man 
will  have  his  lot  and  farm  and  will  attend  to  it  himself.  A  few 
men  came  with  Thomas  Williams  when  he  came  to  Fort  Bridger, 
when  they  came  they  borrowed  flour  of  the  Pioneer  company, 
most  of  them  refuse  to  pay  what  was  borrowed  for  them.  They 
ought  to  return  the  compliment." 

Thomas  Williams  said:  "There  are  only  two  or  three  who 
have  paid  their  portion.  Those  were  the  persons  who  returned 
to  the  Battalion. ' '  Captain  Brown  said :  ' ;  Thomas  Williams 
suggested  the  propriety  of  going  ahead  to  overtake  the  Pioneers 
and  get  back  a  couple  of  stolen  mules.  If  Williams  had  asked 
for  volunteers  he  could  have  had  half  the  Battalion." 

President  Young  said:  "You  came  and  would  not  have 
eaten  more  if  you  had  staid.  Is  there  a  man  that  would  not  have 
borrowed  on  the  strength  of  his  rations.  Brother  Rockwood  let 
them  have  twenty  pounds  of  flour,  that  we  don't  want,  but  the 
twelfth  ten  have  not  ten  pounds  of  flour  among  them,  and  that 
ought  to  be  paid."  He  then  related  the  "Sim"  Goodel  affair, 
and  said  "I  anticipate  the  time  will  come  when  I  shall  enjoy 
eood  health  in  this  valley,  and  be  able  to  speak  to  the  brethren. 
I  deprive  myself  of  preaching  to  the  brethren  in  order  to  keep 
on  this  side  of  the  vail.  If  the  wind  had  not  blo\ved  so  hard, 
I  should  have  spoken  upon  the  sealing  principle.  I  perceive  that 
I  fail,  that  my  bodily  strength  is  decreasing.  'If  I  had  spoken  it 
would  have  hurt  me.  There  are  manv  things  T  want  to  sav  be- 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 119 

fore  I  go.  I  feel  thankful  that  I  am  here,  words  and  actions 
cannot  exhibit  what  is  in  me.  The  hand  of  the  Lord  is  stretched 
out.  He  will  surely  vex  the  nations  that  has  driven  us  out. 
They  have  rejected  the  whole  council  of  God.  The  nation  will 
be  sifted  and  the  most  come  out  chaff,  and  they  will  go  to  the 
firey  furnace.  They  will  go  to  hell.  This  is  "the  spot  I  had 
anticipated.  We  will  not  have  a  hard  winter  here.  The  high- 
est mountains  are  near  one  and  one-quarter  miles  high.  We 
shall  find  that- sugar  cane  and  sweet  potatoes  will  grow  here. 
The  brethren  from  Pueblo  advise  us  all  to  build  adobie  houses. 
There  never  was  a  better  or  richer  soil  than  this.  Last  fall  we 
found  there  were  lots  of  persons  who  had  not  two  weeks  pro- 
visions with  them.  If  we  had  come  on  then,  we  should  have 
led  a  people  to  the  mountains  to  suffer.  We  told  the  pioneers 
to  bring  at  least  one  hundred  pounds  of  bread-stuff.  If  men 
have  not  bread,  let  them  go  where  it  is.  There  are  some  that 
would  lie  down  and  die  before  they  would  complain,  and  again 
others  who  would  take  the  blood  of  man  for  it.  The  first  com- 
pany were  charged  to  bring  a  sufficient  quantity  to  last  them 
through  the  present  season.  I  calculate  we  shall  bring  as  much 
as  will  last  us  until  we  can  raise  food.  We  want  all  the  breth- 
ren who  are  goins'  back,  to  go  to  the  Salt  Lake  and  have  a 
swim.  The  water  is  almost  equal  to  vinegar  to  make  your  eyes 
arid  nose  smart."  After  a  benediction  by  the  president,  the 
meeting  was  dismissed  at  5:20  p.  m. 

Monday,  August  9th. — It  is  fine  weather  this  morning  and 
Andrew  Gibbons.  George  Billings,  Horace  Gushing,  William 
King,  Horace  Whitney  and  myself,  with  four  teams,  went  up  the 
pass  about  six  miles  from  here,  where  we  got  four  loads  of 
poles  and  took  them  to  the  yard,  about  a  mile  below  here,  where 
the  brethren  are  engaged  in  making  adobies  with  which  to 
build  the  stockade  or  fort,  which  is  to  enclose  ten  acres. 
Gaptain  Brown,  Samuel  Brannon,  William  H.  Squires  and  some 
others  started  this  morning  on  pack  horses  for  California. 
Brother  J.  G.  Little  and  some  others  went  with  them,  intending 
to  accompany  them  as  far  as  Fort  Hall,  and  a  few  only  as  far 
as  Be;ir  River. 

Tuesday,  August  10th. — It  was  a  pleasant  morning.  Horace 
and  myself  with  two  teams  went  to  the  place  where  we  got 
poles  yesterday,  and  cut  three  loads  of  logs,  which  he,  myself 
and  Ozro  Eastman  with  a  thii'd  team,  took  to  the  adobie  }rard, 
where  we  arrived  at  5  p.  ra.  and  found  Brother  Kimball,  J. 
Redding.  A.  Gibbons  and  Gr.  Billings  engaged  in  laying  the 
basement  of  a  row  of  log  buildings  on  the  east  side,  which  side 
of  the  stockade  is  immediately  on  the  line,  and  I  understand 


120 V  I  O  N  E  E  R  I  N  G      THE      WES  T 

is  to  be  entirely  built  of  log's.  President  Young's  row  of 
buildings  joins  Brother  Kimball's. 

1  omitted  to  mention  that  last  evening  Brother  Kimball 
invited  Horace  (Whitney),  Brothers  Whipple,  William  Clayton, 
William  King,  H.  Cushing  and  myself  to  a  walk  over  the 
creek,  a  short  distance  hence,  to  view  the  building  lot  he  had 
selected.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  elevated  bench  or  ground, 
which  commands  a  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  valley 
to  the  north  and  south.  Brother  Kimball  informed  us  that  it 
was  his  intention  to  select  two  lots  for  Brother  Whitney  to  the 
west  and  adjoining  his  own,  and  next  to  him  Brother  Clayton, 
if  he  chooses,  could  have  a  lot.  He  said  that  most  of  the 
Twelve  had  selected  lots  in  the  vicinity  of  the  temple  lot,  which 
consists  of  forty  acres  (*changed  after  to  twenty  acres).  After 
spending  some  time  in  conversation  on  different  subjects. 
chiefly  relating,  however,  to  the  prospect  of  our  return  to 
Winter  Quarters,  he  proposed  that  we  should  pray.  According- 
ly lie  made  a  beautiful  prayer,  returning  thanks  to  the  Lord 
for  the  preservation  of  ourselves,  horses  and  cattle,  and  for 
conducting  us  to  a  goodly  land,  possessed  of  a  rich  and  fertile 
soil,  even  "a  land  of  promise."  .  He  also  prayed  for  our  fam- 
ilies in  Winter  Quarters,  that  they  might  have  no  sickness 
among  them,  and  finally  for  the  saints  throughout  the  world. 

After  he  had  closed  we  returned  to  camp.  This  afternoon 
the  weather  has  been  quite  cloudy,  and  toward  evening  we  hail 
quite  a  gale  of  wind  that  prostrated  quite  a  few  of  the  soldiers' 
tents,  but  the  wind  did  not  last  long'. 

Wednesday,  August  llth. — It  was  a  fine  day.  and  Orson 
(Whitney)  and  myself  went  into  the  woods  after  logs.  We 
returned  just  after  sun  down  with  two  loads.  The  rest  of  the 
boys  were  engaged  in  laying  up  logs  at  the  adobie  yard.  That 
part  of  the  wall  to  be  constructed  of  adobies  was  commenced 
today.  A  large  band  of  Indians  made  their  appearance  in  camp 
this  morning  on  horseback.  Not  being  permitted  to  come 
within  the  circle,  after  staying  some  time,  they  went  down  on 
the  bottoms  and  encamped,  about  three  miles  below  here.  Four 
wagons  (ox  teams)  started  for  Winter  Quarters  this  morning, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Jacobs.  These,  I  suppose,  will 
remain  on  the  Sweet  Water  and  hunt  buffalos  till  we  come  up. 

This  afternoon  we  were  much  surprised  and  grieved  by  the 
unusual  occurence  among  ns  of  an  afflicting  and  domestic 
calamity.  The  following  is  a  brief  relation  of  the  affaii  : 
Brother  Brown  Crow  while  getting  a  pail  of  water  out  of  the 
small  stream,  which  flows  bv  on  the  south  side  of  the  camp, 
discovered  the  dead  body  of  his  nephew,  Milton  Thirlkill,  (a 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 121 

lad  of  about  3  years  of  age)  lying  in  the  deepest  part  of  the 
water  near  the  dam.  The  body  was  immediately  taken  out,  and, 
notwithstanding1  every  remedy  usual  in  such  cases,  wras  resorted 
to  for  its  resuscitation  for  an  hour  or  more,  but  they  were  at 
length  obliged  to  give  up  the  case  as  hopeless.  The  child  had 
been  seen  playing  with  a  young  brother  a  short  time  previous, 
by  the  side  of  the  stream;  hence,  they  inferred  that  he  must 
have  been  in  the  water  som*  ten  minutes. 

The  grief  of  both  of  the  parents  was  great,  but  that  of  the 
agonized  mother  baffles  all  description.  She  laughed,  wept, 
walked  to  and  fro,  alternately,  refusing  all  attempts  at  con- 
solation from  her  friends,  being,  apparently  unable  to  become 
resigned  to  her  domestic  and  melancholy  bereavement. 

Thursday,  August  12th. — This  was  a  very  warm  day,  and 
we  did  not  go  after  logs.  The  most  of  the  boys,  as  usual,  were 
engaged  in  laying  up  logs  at  the  adobie  yard.  The  funeral,  or 
burial  of  the  child  of  George  W.  and  Matilda  Jane  Thirlkill, 
took  place  about  2  p.  m.  Brother  H.  K.  Whitney  gave  me  the 
following  account  of  the  ceremony: 

"Myself  with  some  others,  accompanied  as  assistance, 
went  to  the  place  of  burial,  which  is  on  Brother  Crow's  lot, 
about  two  miles  below  here,  nearly  opposite  the  adobie  yard. 
As  soon  as  we  reached  the  grave,  we  all  knelt  and  a  beautiful 
and  affecting  prayer  was  made  by  Elder  0.  Pratt  in  behalf  of 
the  bereaved  parents  and  friends;  after  which,  by  request  of 
Brother  Crow,  he  made  a  few  remarks  by  way  of  exhortation 
and  instruction  to  us  all,  and  concluded  by  a  brief  consoling 
address  to  the  parents  and  friends  of  the  deceased.  About  3 
p.  m.  we  returned  to  the  camp." 

Two  loads  of  salt  arrived  from  the  Salt  Lake  about  3 
o'clock.  It  is  the  best  kind  I  have  ever  seen,  being  as  white  as 
snow,  though  somewhat  coarse.  The  brethren  who  brought  it 
in.  remained  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  for  a  day  or  two  boiling 
down  the  salt  together  with  water,  in  order  to  separate  it 
from  the  particles  of  dirt  with  which  it  abounded.  A  number 
of  brethren  started  today  on  horseback  for  Winter  Quarters. 
Most  of  them  were  soldier  brethren. 

Friday,  August  13th. — It  was  warm  and  sultry  as  usual. 
Brother  John  Tibbits  and  myself  started  for  the  woods  about 
noon  to  procure  timber  for  sawing.  Just  as  we  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  pass,  we  met  Horace  and  Orson  with  their  teams 
going  to  the  adobie  yard  with  a  load  of  logs. 

Brother  Kimball's  row  of  buildings,  consisting  of  five 
rooms,  is  already  built  up  five  logs  high.  Adjoining  to  the  end 
of  those.  Dr.  Richards  and  others  of  the  Twelve,  are  building 


122  PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

houses.    There  were  two  additional  loads  of  salt  brought  in  by 
the  brethren  this  afternoon  from  the  lake. 

Saturday,  August  14th. — This  is  a  pleasant  day.  As  it  is 
the  intention  to  start  the  ox  teams  on  Monday  next,  all  who 
are  then  going  back,  started  this  morning  on  an  excursion  to 
the  Salt  Lake.  Some  others  were  also  permitted  to  go,  among 
whom  were  Orson  Whitney  and  Brother  Clayton  with  his  wagon. 
When  they  returned  this  evening-  Brother  Clayton  reported  the 
distance  to  be  twenty-two  miles.  The  shaft  or  screw  of  the 
roadometer  was  broken  on  his  return.  Brother  J.  C.  Little, 
Joseph  Mathews,  John  Brown,  Lieutenant  Willis  and  John 
Buchanon,  who  accompanied  Captain  Brown  and  others  as  far 
as  Bear  River  on  their  way  to  California  on  Monday  last,  re- 
turned today.  They  had  been  as  far  as  Cache  valley  on  an 
exploring  expedition,  of  which  place  they  give  a  favorable 
account,  although,  they  say,  there  is  no  more  timber  there  than 
here,  and  that  like  this,  being  up  the  ravines  in  the  mountains. 

Lewis  B.  Myers  also  returned  today  from  the  same  country. 
Both  parties  report  the  game  to  be  very  scarce,  neither  having 
killed  any.  Some  of  them  visited  the  settlement  made  by  a  man 
by  the  name  of  Miles,  before  referred  to,  and  report  the  Amer- 
ican corn  to  be  as  high  as  ones  shoulders,  and  the  Spanish  corn 
tasseling  out. 

Gr.  Billings.  H.  dishing  and  myself  again  went  into  the 
woods  for  logs  today.  While  on  the  road  we  met  with  quite 
an  accident.  H.  Gushing 's  team,  being  ahead  stopped  suddenly, 
when  one  of  the  oxen  of  G.  Billing's  attached  to  the  wagon  im- 
mediately behind,  ran  with  full  force  against  the  reach  of  the 
former  wagon,  which  projected  out  considerably  behind.  The 
reach  penetrated  the  breast  of  the  ox  nearly  six  inches,  inflicting 
a  wound  large  enough  to  admit  a  man's  clenched  hand,  but, 
notwithstanding,  having  bound  it  up,  we  think  he  will  get  well. 
The  fortification,  or  stockade  has  progressed  bravely  during 
.  the  past  week  from  the  united  diligence  and  industry  of  the 
brethren,  and  we  indulge  hopes  to  be  ready  to  start  back  soon 
after  Brother  Benson  returns. 

Sunday,  August  1.5th. — It  was  beautiful  weather  as  usual, 
and  a  meeting  was  held  at  the  Bowery,  commencing  at  10  a.  m. 
President  Young  addressed  the  congregation  on  the  sealing 
principles,  or  more  particularly,  on  the  law  of  adoption.  He 
told  them:  It  did  not  detract  from  a  man's  glory  to  be  sealed 
to  another,  but  added  to  it,  for  he  still  held  that  of  his  own 
and  adopted  parents  at  the  same  time.  Meeting  was  adjourned 
at  12  noon,  to  meet  again  at  2  p.  m. 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 123 

Meeting-  met  pursuant  to  adjournment  and  the  congregation 
was  addressed  by  Elder  H.  C.  Kimball  and  0.  Pratt  on  various 
subjects.  The  meeting  Avas  dismissed  at  6  p.  m.,  with  the  re- 
quest by  President  Young  that  all  those  who  intend  to  start 
back  tomorrow  should  meet  at  his  tent  this  evening  at  the  sound 
of  the  bugle,  which  was  accordingly  done,  and  all  the  soldiers 
going  brought  their  guns,  ammunition,  etc.,  and  surrendered 
them  into  the  president's  hands,  for  the  reception  and  safe 
keeping  of  which  there  will  be  a  house  built  hereafter.  I  do 
not  know  the  number  going,  but  of  those  about  Brother  Kimball 
are  the  following:  William  Clayton,  J.  Redding,  Robert  Biard 
and  Thomas  Cloward.  It  rained  considerably  soon  after  we 
returned  for  the  night,  accompanied  with  a  little  wind. 

Monday,  August  16th. — It  was  somewhat  cloudy  and  rained 
at  intervals  throughout  the  day.  I  was  engaged  in  hunting  up 
cattle  this  forenoon.  Brother  Biard  and  Cloward  got  started 
today,  each  having  a  wagon  with  two  yokes  of  oxen  attached, 
one  yoke  of  which  Brother  Kimball  got  of  Brother  Huntington. 
William  King  repaired  the  roadometer  this  afternoon,  and 
Wliliam  Clayton,  J.  Redding  and  myself  rode  in  the  former's 
wagon  as  far  as  the  Warm  Springs,  one  and  one-half  miles  dis- 
tant. This  we  done  to  see  how  the  machinery  would  work. 
Quite  a  number  of  wagons  started  today  besides  the  two  abo^e 
mentioned.  Brothers  Whipple  and  Allen  went  up  the  hollow 
where  we  have  been  accustomed  to  get  logs  (Emmigration  can- 
yon), and  procured  a  large  piece  of  sandstone,  out  of  which 
this  afternoon  Brother  Allen  is  fashioning  a  grindstone.  There 
was  quite  a  wind  and  storm  soon  after  we  retired  for  the  night. 

Tuesday.  August  17th. — The  sky  was  somewhat  cloudy  this 
morning.  Brother  Clayton  started  with  hi«  wagon  from  here 
today.  He  is  accompanied  by  J.  Redding  and  E.  Lamb. 

Brother  Kimball,  Dr.  Richards,  Colonel  Rockwood,  Thomas 
Bullock,  Stephen  H.  Goddard  and  myself  went  up  the  Pass, 
about  ten  miles  from  here.  Avhere  the  brethren  were  encamped. 
They  were  soon  called  together,  when  Brother  Kimball  gave 
them  some  instructions  for  their  observance  and  guidance  on 
their  journey.  This  company  is  intrusted  to  the  commands  of 
Captain  Roundy  and  Tunis  Rappleyee.  The  list  of  men  and 
teams  composing  same  is  as  follows :  Fifty-nine  men,  thirty-two 
wagons,  fourteen  mules,  sixteen  horses,  and  ninety-two  yokes 
of  oxen.  Brother  Kimball  and  the  rest  of  us  returned  toward 
night. 

This  evening  he  called  most  of  his  boys  together  at 
Brother  Wilkie's  tent,  where  each  chose  his  respective  lot  and 
Horace  wrote  their  names  on  the  blanks,  representing  the  lots 


124 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

on  the  city  plat  or  map.  Brother  William  Clayton  having-  left, 
Horace  is  hereafter  to  keep  Brother  Kimball's  journal.  The 
brethren  are  as  usual  engaged  today  at  work  on  the  adcbie  wall, 
which,  when  completed  will  be  nine  feet  high  and  twenty-seven 
inches  thick.  Professor  Pratt  has  taken  observations  and  found 
the  latitude  of  this  place  to  be  40  degrees  45  minutes  50  seconds. 
The  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  4309  feet,  and  above 
the  Eutaw  outlet  (*head  of  Jordan)  sixty-five  feet.  This  even- 
ing after  AVC  returned,  we  again  had  quite  a  heavy  wind  from 
the  southwest,  accompanied  by  some  rain,  and,  mingled  with 
the  latter  last  night,  it  is  said,  there  was  considerable  snow. 
This  heralds  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  and  in  the  opinion 
of  all,  we  ought  not  to  remain  here  much  longer. 

Wednesday,  August  18th. — There  was  fair  weather  this 
forenoon,  though  somewhat  showery  this  afternoon.  Nothing 
of  importance  occured  today,  except  the  usual  work  going  on 
at  the  adobie  yard,  at  which  place  I,  for  the  first  time,  worked 
on  the  buildings,  together  with  the  rest  of  the  boys.  President 
Young  has  announced  his  intention  that  we  shall  start  back  on 
Tuesday  next,  and  had  his  horses  shod  yesterday  in  preparation 
for  that  event.  This  afternoon  Hosea  and  myself  went  to  work 
at  odd  jobs  about  the  wagons,  unloading  them.  etc. 

Thursday,  August  19th. — It  was  a  warm  and  pleasant  day. 
Hosea  and  myself  were  engaged  part  of  the  day  in  drawing 
gravel  with  which  to  cover  the  houses.  The  remainder  of  the 
boys  were  also  at  work  finishing  them  off.  We  had  our  horses 
and  mules  shod  today,  preparatory  to  our  starting  on  Tuesday 
next.  A  party  of  Mountaineers  (consisting  of  four  white  men 
and  two  squaws)  arrived  in  the  valley  this  afternoon  from  Fort 
Bridger.  Their  ostensible  reason  for  coming  here  was  "to  see 
how  we  get  along,"  as  they  expressed  themselves;  but  undoubt- 
edly the  real  object  of  their  visit  was  to  trade  with  the  Indians. 
They  were  encamped  this  evening  about  a  mile  below  here  on 
the  bottoms. 

This  afternoon  Horace  copied  the  names  of  those  who  had 
selected  lots,  as  also  the  number  of  lots  and  block,  opposite  each 
one's  name.  Hans  is  engaged  in  making  me  a  coat  of  buckskins. 

Friday,  August  20th. — It  was  pleasant  weather,  and  Hosea 
Cushing  and  myself  were  engaged  in  hauling  some  loose  logs 
that  lay  near  here  down  to  the  adobie  yard.  Horace  took  a 
bar  of  iron  to  the  blacksmith  shop,  had  it  cut  in  two.  and 
•carried  it  to  the  stockade  to  be  used  in  constructing  a  chimney 
in  one  of  Brother  Kimball's  rooms,  which  is  being  built  by 
Brother  S.  Goddard.  Brother  Dockman  is  engaged  in  making 
a  door.  They  have  the  covering  laid  over  the  top  of  one  of 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 125 

the  rooms,  and  the  remainder  are  nearly  ready  for  covering. 
Brother  J.  Mathews  is  engaged  in  sawing  lumber  at  the  saw-pit 
near  by,  with  which  to  make  the  floors. 

The  laying  out  of  the  city  is  now  completed.  It  is  composed 
of  135  blocks,  each  containing  ten  acres,  which  is  subdivided  into 
eight  lots,  each  containing  one  and  one-fourth  acres.  The  streets 
are  eight  rods  wide.  There  are  three  public  squares  (including 
the  adobie  yard)  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  The  Temple 
block,  like  the  rest  contains  ten  acres.  Father  Sherwood  re- 
turned from  an  exploring  expedition  to  Cache  valley  this  evening, 
whither  he  went  clay  before  yesterday,  for  the  purpose  of  trading 
with  the  Indians.  With  him  came  a  man  by  the  name  of  Wells, 
who  has  lived  some  years  in  New  Mexico  among  the  Spaniards. 
I  understand  the  brethren  have  given  him  the  privilege  of 
choosing  a  city  lot,  if  he  wishes  to  dwell  here. 

Brother  A.  Carrington,  John  Brown  and  one  or  two  others 
started  this  evening  on  an  exploring  expedition  to  visit  the  high 
mountains  called  the  Twin  Peaks,  lying  some  distance  to  the 
southeast  of  this  place.  It  is  their  intention  to  proceed  to  the 
base  of  the  mountain  and  there  encamp  for  the  night,  and  on 
the  morrow  ascend  the  same  in  search  of  coal,  etc. 

Saturday,  August  21st. — It  was  fair  weather  as  usual. 
President  Young  and  Kimball  moved  their  wagons  and  effects 
down  to  the  stockade  today.  Hosea  Gushing,  E.  Whipple  and 
myself  assisted  in  the  same  .  Nearly  all  of  Brother  Kimball 's 
rooms  are  now  covered,  and  the  floor  of  the  one  appropriated 
for  Ellen  Satmder's  use  is  nearly  laid.  The  most  of  the  after- 
noon was  employed  by  Brother  Kimball,  H.  Gushing  and  myself 
in  packing,  unpacking,  repacking  and  storing  away  the  things 
in  the  house.  The  remainder  of  the  boys  as  usual  were  engaged 
in  working  on  the  houses.  Horace  took  his  wagon  to  the  black- 
smith shop,  where,  by  my  intervention  Brother  Burr  Frost  re- 
paired the  skein  to  the  axle  tree,  and  also  some  of  the  hounds 
that  had  been  broken,  for  which  Horace  gave  him  two-thirds 
of  a  pail  of  corn. 

Sunday,  August  22nd—  It  was  a  pleasant  day,  though 
thunder  could  be  heard  in  the  distance  this  afternoon,  and  it 
probably  rained  considerably  in  the  mountains.  A  meeting  was 
held  at  the  Bowery,  commencing  at  10  a.  m.  The  congregation 
was  addressed  by  Elder  A.  Lyman  upon  the  subject  of  our 
present  situation  as  a  people,  the  blessing  we  had  received  at 
the  hands  of  the  Lord,  our  further  prospects,  etc. 

A  few  remarks  were  made  by  President  Young,  stating  the 
necessity  of  our  holding  a  conference  in  order  to  transact  some 
church  business,  which  it  was  important  should  be  brought  before 


126  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

the  people  before  we  leave  this  place  on  our  return  to  Winter 
Quarters.  The  meeting  was  then  adjourned  till  2  p.  m.  In  the 
interim  a  council  of  the  Twelve  was  held  under  the  tree  on 
Brother  Kimball's  lot. 

Pursuant  to  adjournment,  conference  met  at  2  p.  m.  The 
following  is  the  minutes  of  said  conference,  as  reported  by  the 
clerk,  Thomas  Bullock :  Sunday,  August  22,  1847,  2  o'clock  p.  m. 
A  special  conference  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-day 
Saints,  held  in  the  Bowery  on  the  Temple  block  in  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  City.  Present :  President  Young,  H.  C.  Kimball,  W. 
Woodruff,  A.  Lyman,  W.  Richards  and  0.  Pratt,  also  Thomas 
Bullock  and  J.  C.  Little,  clerks  of  said  conference. 

President  Young  called  the  meeting  to  order  and  the  choir 
Bang  "The  Spirit  of  God  Like  a  Fire  Is  Burning. "  Prayer 
by  W.  Woodruff.  The  choir  sang  "From  All  That  Dwell  Below 
the  Skies."  Elder  Kimball  called  for  the  business  to  be  trans- 
acted before  the  conference  and  requested  the  brethren  to  be 
free  and  open,  that  it  may  be  well  for  those  that  remain  and 
those  who  are  to  come  here.  It  is  necessary  to  transact  a  few 
items  of  business ;  to  have  a  presidency  to  preside  over  this 
place,  and  to  appoint  such  officers  as  are  necessary  to  watch 
over  and  council  them  for  their  well  being.  Also  the  stockade; 
shall  we  continue  our  labors,  and  concentrate  all  our  efforts  in 
the  building  of  that,  or  scatter,  and  every  man  work  for  himself? 
Shall  we  cultivate  the  earth  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city,  or  go 
three  or  four  miles  and  make  'arms  and  fence  them  so  that  our 
crops  can  be  secure  ?  Shall  A7e  scatter  our  labors  ?  One  man 
build  his  house,  another  fence  his  lot,  another  go  hunting,  etc., 
etc.  These  are  matters  for  your  consideration. 

If  the  brethren  have  any  interest  we  want  an  expression  of 
it ;  if  they  have  not,  be  silent,  and  we  will  transact  the  business. 
H.  G.  Sherwood  said:  '"It  meets  my  feelings  to  cultivate  the 
city  and  fence  it  in  with  an  adobie  wall,  and  a  high  one  will 
make  a  guard  against  the  Indians  and  keep  our  cattle  out.  I 
am  in  favor  of  fencing  in  the  city  and  cultivating  it." 

N.  Higgins  said :  ' '  The  Indians  supposed  the  land  to  be 
all  theirs,  and  are  in  the  habit  of  taking  a  share  of  the  grain 
for  the  use  of  the  land." 

President  Young  moved  that  the  brethren  fence  in  the  city 
and  such  portions  as  they  had  a  mind  to  in  sections  and  cul- 
tivate it.  It  was  seconded  by  Dimick  B.  Huntingdon.  H.  C. 
Kimball  said:  "We  have  talked  considerable  about  it,  and  the 
most  prudent  and  economical  way  of  doing  it.  It  is  best  to 
farm  in  that  portion  \vhich  is  tillable  and  that  which  is  the  most 
convenient  for  us.  Suppose  we  divide  it  into  three  sections. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 127 

Put  the  fence  upon  the  line  of  the  city  just  where  we  want  it; 
and  that  which  is  not  wet  enough  can  be  irrigated,  and  can  raise 
100  to  1000  bushels  for  ourselves  and  those  who  come  after  us, 
and  they  shall  pay  you  a  good  round  price  for  it.  I  would  rather 
fence  a  block  of  ten  acres  and  have  the  crop,  than  plant  100 
acres  for  the  cattle  to  destroy.  Will  you  put  your  " mites" 
together  for  that  which  is  the  best  for  every  man,  woman  and 
child?  Will  you  do  it?  (Cries  of  "Yes")  I  say  put  our  fence 
together  and  fence  the  city,  and  sow  our  wheat  safely."  The 
motion  was  carried  unanimously. 

President  Young  said:  "I  move  that  there  be  a  president 
to  preside  over  this  place."  Seconded  and  carried.  "That 
there  be  a  High  Council."  Seconded  and  carried.  "That  all 
other  officers  that  are  necessary  be  appointed  for  this  place." 
Seconded  and  carried.  "That  we  call  this  place  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  City  of  the  Great  Basin,  North  America.  That  we  call 
the  postoffice  the  Great  Basin  Postoffice."  Seconded  and 
carried.  H.  C.  Kimball  said:  "I  move  that  we  call  the  river 
the  'Western  Jordan.'  "  Seconded  and  carried. 

President  Young  said:  "It  is  the  right  of  the  Twelve  to 
nominate  the  officers,  and  the  people  to  receive  them.  We  wish  to 
know  who  is  coming  in  the  next  company.  If  Uncle  John  Smith 
comes  it  is  our  minds  that  he  preside.  Colonel  Rockwood  is  my 
principal  man,  attends  to  all  my  duties."  H.  C.  Kimball  said: 
"I  move  that  Colonel  Rockwood  be  honorably  released  from 
his  duties  as  overseer  of  the  Stockade."  Seconded  and  car- 
ried. "I  also  move  that  Tarleton  Lewis  be  appointed  to  that 
office."  Seconded  and  carried.  President  Young  said:  "There 
will  be  thousands  of  instances  of  men  being  discharged  and 
who  are  never  shown  on  record  as  being  appointed.  It  is  the 
business  of  all  clerks  to  write  the  business  that  is  transacted, 
and  not  to  ask  questions.  Colonel  Rockwood  is  my  aide-de- 
camp. I  was  acknowledged  as  their  General  and  their  dictator. 
If  I  appoint  him  to  do  a  thing  and  don't  tell  the  clerk, 
the  clerk  is  not  to  blame,  and  when  he  is  discharged  it  can  be 
recorded. 

"The  brethren  are  not  requested  to  labor  for  nought.  You 
don't  know  what  dangers  you  are  in.  I  am  full  of  caution.  I 
wish  this  people  may  grow  and  increase  and  become  a  great 
nation.  It  ought  to  suffice  the  elders  of  Israel  to  go  and  do 
as  they  are  told.  Is  it  not  necessary  that  the  yard  should  be 
secured,  that  the  Indians  cannot  get  in?  About  forty  persons 
are  going  to  live  in  those  houses ;  that  would  only  be  one-fourth 
of  the  whole,  and  have  three  sides  exposed,  but  common  sense 
teaches  us  to  build  it  all  around.  Men  laboring  here  will  be 


128  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

glad  to  buy  a  cow,  some  sheep,  clothing,  and  other  things.  Some 
•wealthy  men  are  coming  and  will  want  rooms.  The  men  who 
build  them  are  entitled  to  their  pay. 

''Don't  be  so  devilish  hoggish  as  to  be  afraid. to  do  a  day's 
work  without  getting  pay  for  it.  And  I.  can  prophecy  in  the 
name  of  Jesus  Christ,  a  man  having  such  a  spirit  will  be 
damned ;  and  I  say  further,  that  such  a  man  shall  not  live  here. 
Get  up  your  walls  four  and  one-half  feet  high  and  that  will 
keep  the  cattle  out.  "Who  is  there  sick  in  this  camp  through 
living  in  your  wagons'?  Now,  if  you  go  and  leave  those  walls 
and  build  up  your  own  house,  and  I  venture  to  prophecy  that 
you  or  some  of  your  family  will  be  sick  and  you  will  have 
to  watch  over  them.  I  had  rather  they  sleep  in  the  Bowery 
than  in  a  close  house.  We  propose  to  fence  in  thirty  rods 
square  that,  in  case  of  necessity,  the  cattle  can  be  placed  in, 
and  in  the  inside  stack  your  hay.  In  the  spring  remove  your 
fence.  Plow  a  trench  about  twenty  feet  from  the  houses  and 
the  women  can  raise  a  multitude  of  garden  sauce. 

I  want  to  engage  50,000  bushels  of  wheat  and  other  grain 
in  proportion,  and  I  will  pay  you  50  cents  per  bushel  for  corn, 
$1.25  for  wheat  and  25  cents  for  oats.  Why  not?  I  bring 
glass  for  you  and  you  raise  grain  for  me.  Raise  all  you  can. 
You  can  buy  sheep,  teams,  or  a  cow  or  two.  We  want  you 
to  live  in  that  Stockade  until  we  come  back  again,  and  raise 
grain  next  year.  If  you  only  fence  in  forty  acres,  make  it  so 
an  Indian  cannot  see  in,  and  then  they  won't  be  tempted." 

Elder  O.  Pratt  said:  "It  would  be  impossible  to  fence  in 
this  city  with  a  fence  so  an  Indian  cannot  see  in  it.  It  will 
take  2300  rods  to  fence  in  the  whole  city,  and  it  would  take  a 
good  many  months."  H.  C.  Kimball  said:  "There  are  some 
creeks  that  have  no  names."  President  Young  said:  "I  move 
that  this  creek  be  called  the  City  Creek."  Carried.  "That 
the  large  creek  about  eight  miles  south  be  called  Mill  Creek." 
Seconded  and  carried.  "That  the  little  creek,  a  little  south, 
be  called  Red  Bute  Creek.  "Seconded  and  carried.  "That  the 
next  be  called  Canyon  Creek."  Carried.  "That  the  next  be 
called  Big  Canyon  Creek."  Seconded  and  carried. 

"Now  I  want  to  know  if  the  people  are  satisfied  with  the 
labors  of  the  Twelve?" 

T.  Lewis  said:  "I  move  that  we  give  them  our  approba- 
tion, that  we  are  satisfied  with  their  labors,  and  give  them 
our  blessing."  Seconded  and  carried. 

Lorenzo  Young  reminded  those  brethren  who  did  not  pray, 
that  it  was  a  good  time  for  them  to  beerin  and  fulfill  their 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 129 

covenants  that  they  have  now  made.  When  we  covenant  to 
do  a  thing,  be  careful  and  always  do  it. 

President  Young  said:  "I  want  to  know  who  are  going 
back  to  winter  quarters  ?  Those  who  are  going  to  stay,  will 
you  finish  that  adobe  wall?  If  so,  stand  up.  (A  number 
arose.)  I  should  have  no  hesitation  in  taking  five  men  and 
build  a  mile  of  adobe  wall  eight  feet  high  this  fall.  Keep  it 
in  mind:  50  cents  for  corn,  $1.25  for  wheat,  and  other  grain 
in  proportion." 

H.  C.  Kimball  said:  "My  feelings  are  for  the  welfare 
and  well  being1  of  all  this  people.  I  am  your  brother  and  you 
are  my  brethren,  all  being  born  from  the  same  parents ;  and  I 
am  now  approximating  back  again  to  those  feelings,  in  them 
again  being  restored  to  their  parents.  You  should  throw  away 
selfishness  for  it  is  of  hell,  and  I  say  in  the  name  of  Jesus 
away  with  it  to  hell.  (Cries  of  Amen.)  A  man  possessed  of 
such  feelings  stinks  worse  than  a  skunk.  I  want  to  cultivate 
a  feeling  of  union,  of  peace,  toward  my  brethren,  and,  if  they 
knock  me  over.  I'll  try  to  forget  it. 

The  Holy  Ghost  will  rest  upon  you  and  I  shall  see  the  day 
when  the  heavens  will  be  opened  and  we  will  render  up  our 
stewardships  to  our  Heavenly  Father.  Brother  Brigham  is  go- 
ing to  be  greater  than  he  was.  He  will  be  greater  in  strength, 
in  beauty  and  in  glory.  A  man  don't  know  how  to  appreciate 
a  thing  until  it  is  taken  away.  A  man  don't  appreciate  a  wife 
until  she  is  away,  nor  a  wife  appreciate  a  husband  until  he  is 
gone.  Call  upon  God  and  we  shall  increase  here.  Away  with 
the  spirit  of  alienation  and  let  us  be  united.  I  believe  I  shall 
receive  power  to  thrust  everything  beneath  my  feet  and  rise 
in  glory.  I  wish  to  God  we  did  not  have  to  return.  If  I  had 
my  family  here.  I  would  give  anything  I  have.  This  is  a 
paradise  to  me.  It  is  one  of  the  most  comely  places  I  ever 
beheld.  I  hope  none  of  us  will  be  left  to  polute  this  land.  I 
had  rather  depart  than  do  as  a  great  many  do." 

President  Young  said:  "I  move  that  Brother  Maclntyre 
be  clerk  and  keep  an  account  of  public  labors."  Carried.  "In 
regard  to  our  starting — get  ready  as  fast  as  possible,  and  on 
Tuesday  night  we  will  start  out  and  see  if  we  are  ready  to  go. 
I  move  that  we  adjourn  this  conference  to  October  6.  1848.  at 
10  o'clock  a.  m..  at  this  place."  Carried.  "I  also  move  that 
Fdpon  Whipple  attend  to  the  distribution  of  water  over  the 
plowed  land."  Seconded  and  carried.  Elder  0.  Pratt  dis- 
missed the  conference  by  benediction. 

After  the  meetine  the  rest  of  the  bovs  and  mvself  assisted 


130 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Horace  in  taking  his  wagon  by  hand  from  the  blacksmith  shop 
down  to  the  Stockade. 

The  Twelve  held  another  council  this  evening  in  front  of 
the  buildings.  Brothers  Carrington,  Brown  and  others  returned 
during  the  session  of  conference  from  the  exploring  expedition 
to  the  mountains,  on  ascending  which  they  had  found  no  coal, 
but  plenty  of  black  slate. 

Monday,  August  23rd. — It  was  somewhat  cloudy  with  a 
little  rain.  George  Billings  and  A.  Gibbons  went  after  poles 
with  which  to  cover  the  buildings.  The  rest  of  the  boys  and 
myself  were  at  work  on  the  houses,  getting  the  wagons  ready 
for  the  journey,  etc.  Ellen  Saunders  has  moved  into  her  room, 
and  the  other  rooms  will  soon  be  finished.  Thomas  Williams 
and  others  returned  from  Fort  Hall  today.  The  former  was 
the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  Captain  Brown  to  Brother  Kim- 
ball,  merely  stating  his  health,  prospects,  etc.  Brother  Kim- 
ball  has  recently  got  a  good  wagon  of  Brother  Shelton.  This 
he  loaned  him  for  the  purpose  of  assisting  in  bringing  up  the 
families. 

Tuesday,  August  24th. — It  was  fair  weather  until  about 
noon  when  it  suddenly  became  cloudy  and  we  had  quite  a 
heavy  shower.  The  boys  this  forenoon  were  usually  busy  at 
work  on  the  houses.  About  2  p.  m.,  it  having  cleared  off, 
Horace  and  myself,  with  his  wagon,  and  Hosea  Gushing,  G. 
Billings  and  Carlos  Murray,  with  one  of  Brother  Kimball's 
wagons,  started  on  an  excursion  to  the  Salt  Lake.  It  is  un- 
necessary to  relate  particulars  connected  with  our  visit,  or 
give  any  farther  description  of  the  lake,  as  there  has  been 
sufficient  mention  made  of  it  already;  but  suffice  it  to  say, 
that  we  had  a  fine  bath  in  its  waters,  and  staid  all  night  on 
its  shore,  together  with  a  number  of  others  who  had  come  in 
wagons  and  on  horseback. 

Wednesday,  August  25th. — It  was  a  bright  and  clear  morn- 
ing and  we  arose  early,  got  our  breakfast  and,  after  waiting 
a  short  time  to  fill  a  bag  with  salt,  we  started  back  and  ar- 
rived at  the  Stockade  about  noon,  where  we  found  the  brethren 
making  preparations  to  go  back  to  winter  quarters,  as  it  is 
the  intention  to  start  about  6  o'clock  in  the  evening.  After 
our  return  from  the  lake  we  busied  ourselves  this  afternoon  in 
getting  up  the  horses,  cutting  grass  for  them,  that  we  may 
hitch  them  up  for  all  night  in  order  to  be  ready  with  the  rest 
to  make  an  early  start.  Brothers  Kimball,  Whipple  and  my- 
self met  in  Ellen's  room  a  little  after  dark  to  talk  over  busi- 
ness matters,  after  which  we  had  prayers  and  retired  about 
10  p.  m. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 131 

Thursday,  August  26th. — The  weather  was  beautiful  and 
as  fast  as  they  got  ready  this  morning  they  started  out,  one 
by  one,  the  first  about  9  o'clock.  The  last  of  our  wagons 
started  about  10  o'clock.  I  remained  behind  to  settle  some 
business  with  Brother  Whipple,  who  concluded  to  accompany 
me  on  horseback  to  the  camp.  We  overtook  the  wagons  about 
nine  miles  from  the  valley,  and  traveled  six  miles  further  and 
encamped  near  the  cold  springs  on  Canyon  Creek,  on  the  arm 
of  prairie  spoken  of  by  0.  Pratt  in  his  letter  as  we  came  out. 

Friday,  August  27th. — The  weather  Avas  somewhat  warm 
and  sultry.  We  arose  early  and  got  our  breakfast  and  resumed 
our  journey.  Brother  Whipple  returned  to  the  valley.  We 
ascended  the  long,  steep  hill,  spoken  of  heretofore,  and  at 
length  we  attained  its  summit,  having  traveled  four  miles.  We 
halted  a  short  time  for  the  last  teams  to  get  up,  many  of 
which  had  to  double  in  order  to  do  so.  We  then  traveled  down 
about  four  miles  and  came  to  Ogden's  Fork.  After  crossing 
the  stream,  we 'traveled  a  short  distance  and  stopped  to  bait 
about  4  p.  m.  Here  we  continued  about  one  hour  and  pro- 
ceeded on  and  encamped  about  sundown,  having  traveled  about 
fifteen  miles  today.  We  found  the  feed  tolerable  good. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  those  going  in  Brother 
Kimball  's  wagons :  Hosea  Gushing,  William  King,  George 
Billings,  Andrew  Gibbons,  Carlos  Murray,  Ralph  Douglass,  Able 
M.  Sargant.  William  Ferril.  Albert  Sharp,  Thurston  Lawson, 
Edwin  Holden.  Brother  Markham  is  hauling  Porter's  wagon 
for  us  until  we  meet  the  companies. 

Saturday,  August  28th. — It  was  pleasant  weather,  we 
started  about  7 :30  a.  m.,  traveled  about  twelve  miles,  forded 
Weber  Fork,  and  halted  to  bait.  This  stream  has  fallen  con- 
siderably since  Ave  were  here  last.  We  proceeded  on  our  jur- 
ney  about  3  o'clock,  traveled  about  four  miles  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  then  turned  abruptly  to  the  left  and  traveled 
through  a  narrow  pass  about  four  miles  and  encamped,  stopping 
in  single  file  on  the  road  a  little  after  dark.  Some  of  the 
brethren,  who  had  been  out  hunting,  found  a  steer,  which  had 
strayed  from  the  Battalion.  They  killed  it  and  divided  it 
amon<r  the  camp.  Brothers  King.  Cushing  and  myself  made 
up  our  bed  on  the  grass  and  slept  in  the  open  air. 

Sunday,  August  29th. — It  was  pleasant  weather  and  we 
proceeded  on  our  journey  at  7:35  and  traveled  about  twelve 
miles  to  Redding 's  Cave,  where  we  halted  to  feed  about  1 
p.  m.  Soon  after  we  halted.  Brother  Benson  rode  up.  the 
brethren  were  very  triad  to  see  him  and  gathered  around  him 
to  hear  the  news.  He  met  the  company  about  forty  miles  this 


132 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

side  of  Fort  John.  (Laramie),  which  consisted  of  566  wagons. 
He  brought  a  list  of  names  from  1200  to  1500  in  number.  These 
were  divided  into  nine  companies.  He  and  Porter  left  the 
forward  company  on  the  Sweet  Water,  where  they  had  lost  a 
number  of  their  cattle  by  sickness,  and  many  had  strayed 
away.  He  brought  a  number  of  papers  and  letters.  I  received 
one  from  my  wife  dated  14th  June,  leaving  them  all  well, 
which  rejoiced  my  heart.  I  thank  my  Heavenly  Father  that 
He  has  blessed  them  with  health  and  strength,  and  I  pray 
God  that  He  may  preserve  them  from  evil  and  from  sickness 
and  death,  that  we  may  enjoy  each  others  society  again. 

About  4  p.  m.  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  came  about 
four  miles  and  met  Porter  (Rockwell),  four  miles  further  we 
encamped  in  a  small  valley  about  dark,  having  come  about 
twenty  miles  today.  We  had  wild  sage  for  fuel.  Porter  took 
supper  with  Brother  Kimball,  whom  I  cook  for  and  mess  with. 
The  evening  was  cold  and  some  frost. 

Monday,  August  30th. — It  was  cloudy,  gloomy  and  cold 
weather.  We  started  on  our  journey  at  7:40,  and  after  travel- 
ing six  miles  we  came  to  Bear  River.  After  fording,  we  stopped 
to  feed  at  11  a.  m.  During  the  bait,  Brother  Bullock  read  the 
names  of  six  of  the  camp  that  were  coming  on,  after  which  we 
proceeded  and  traveled  on  eight  miles  and  encamped  in  the 
valley  at  4  p.  m.,  making  fourteen  miles  during  the  day.  The 
feed  here  is  pretty  good  and  two  good  springs  of  water,  and 
plenty  of  cedar  on  the  mountains  for  fuel.  The  evening  was 
cloudy  and  drizzling  rain. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  names  in  this  company :  Brig- 
ham  Young,  Alvarus  Hanks,  John  Y.  Green,  Geo.  Clark*,  Tru- 
man 0.  Angell,  J.  G.  Luse*.  Joseph  S.  Schofield,  John  G.  Hoi- 
man,  A.  P.  Rockwood,  G.  R.  Grant,  Stephen  H.  Goddard,  D. 
Laughlin*,  Millen  Atwood,  Wm.  Dykes,  Thomas  Tanner,  David 
Grant,  A.  Everett,  Thomas  Woolsey,  Geo.  Wilson*,  Haywood 
Thomas*,  Jessie  Johnson*,  Samuel  B.  Fox,  Willard  Richards, 
John  Brimhall*,  Thomas  Bullock,  A.  S.  Huntly*,  B.  B.  Rich- 
mond*, Rodney  Badger,  Eli  Harvey  Peirce,  W.  W.  Rust*,  Ezra 
T.  Benson,  Joseph  Mathews,  Daniel  Powel*,  James  Camp*,  Wm. 
Pack*,  Erastus  Snow,  Green  Flake,  Wm.  Maclntire*,  Benjamin 
Stewart*,  Geo.  W.  Brown,  John  Crow*,  Porter  Rockwell,  P.  T. 
Mashek*,  Chas.  Shumway,  Wm.  Rowe*,  C.  Rowe*,  Andrew  P. 
Shumway,  Burr  Frost,  B'.  L.  Adams,  Wm.  Carter,  A.  P.  Chess- 
ley,  Wm.  Wadsworth,  Thomas  C *,  Datus  Ensign.  John 

Gould*,  Samuel  Gould*,  John  Dixon,  Simeon  F.  Howd,  Amasa 
Lyman,  Seth  Taft,  Albert  Carrington,  John  Brown,  Stephen 
Kelsey,  G.  A.  Smith,  J.  J.  Ferill*,  Wilford  Woodruff,  S.  Cham- 


PIONEERING    THE     WEST 133 

berlin,  Dexter  Stillman*,  Wm.  Senill*,  Wm.  C.  A.  Smoot,  Nath. 
Fairbanks,  J.  E.  Stewart,  C.  A.  Harper,  Robert  T.  Thomas, 
Perry  Fitzgerald,  Isaac  N.  Weston*,  James  Case,  Ozro  East- 
man, J.  C.  Earl,  Monroe  Frink,  Judson  Persons,  Levi  N.  Ken- 
dall*, Orson  Pratt,  S.  Markham,  Joseph  Egbert,  Geo.  Mills,  M. 
B.  Thorpe,  C.  Kleinman,  H.  K.  Whitney,  S.  Larsen*,  Geo.  Bill- 
ings, H.  C.  Kimball,  Ralph  Douglass*,  Howard  Egan,  Edwin 
Holden*,  H.  Gushing,  Wm.  Gifford,*,  Wm.  A.  King,  Albert 
Sharp*,  Carlos  Murray,  A.  M.  Sargent*,  0.  K.  Whitney,  An- 
drew Gibbons,  comprising  103  men,  36  wagons,  42  horses  and 
35  mules. 

•Those  not  marked  were  returning  members  of  the  orig- 
inal band  of  Pioneers.  The  others  were  probably  "Mormon 
Battalion"  men,  with  some  exceptions. 

President  Young  called  the  brethren  together  this  even- 
ing for  organization,  when  the  following  persons  were  elected 
to  office:  S.  Markhain,  captain  of  one  hundred:  Barnabus 
Adams  and  Joseph  Ma  thews,  captains  of  fifties;  Brigham 
Young,  John  Brown,  Howard  Egan,  Geo.  Clark,  Geo.  Wilson,  E. 
Snow,  Thomas  Tanner  and  E.  A.  Harper,  captains  of  tens.  Pres- 
ident Young  selected  his  ten,  which  included  six  of  the  Twelve, 
A.  P.  Rockwood,  S.  H.  Goddard  and  J.  Schofield.  It  was  moved 
that  we  travel  in  order,  after  we  had  thus  org-anized.  Brother 
Young  advised  the  brethren  to  gather  up  their  horses  and  tie 
them,  as  it  was  his  intention  to  start  as  early  as  6  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  which  we  accordingly  did.  Thomas  Bullock  then 
read  a  portion  of  the  names  of  those  coming  on  in  the  companies 
expected. 

Tuesday,  August  31st. — The  weather  was  pleasant  and  we 
proceeded  on  our  journey  at  7  a.  m.  and  traveled  ten  miles  and 
crossed  Muddy  Fork,  the  bed  of  which  we  found  to  be  quite  dry ; 
came  seven  miles  and  halted  to  bait  at  1  p.  m.  Here  we  re- 
mained for  two  hours  and  then  started  on.  The  wagons  arrived 
at  Fort  Bridger  about  5  p.  m.  Brother  King  and  myself  and  a 
few  others  rode  ahead  on  horseback  and  arrived  early  in  the 
afternoon.  After  the  wagons  had  halted  we  discovered  that  one 
of  our  horses  was  missing  and  also  one  of  Brother  Snow's.  The 
company  moved  on  about  a  mile  further  and  encamped,  having 
come  twenty-three  miles  today.  Brother  King  and  myself  started 
back  to  look  for  the  horses.  Brother  Snow  overtook  us  about 
five  miles  from  the  fort.  The  evening  was  very  cold.  We  trav- 
eled back  within  three  miles  of  where  we  encamped  last  night 
and  found  our  horses  about  11:30  o'clock.  We  made  a  fire  to 
•warm  ourselves  and  let  our  horses  feed  for  about  half  an  hour, 
and  then  started  back,  arriving  at  the  camp  a  little  before  sun- 
rise. We  got  our  breakfast  and  laid  down  to  sleep,  in  order  to 


134 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

give  our  horses  a  chance  to  feed,  the  camp    starting     ahead. 
Brother  C.  Murray  remained  with  us. 


11.— MEETING  THE  TRAINS,  SEPTEMBER,  1847. 

Wednesday,  September  1st,  1847. — It  was  pleasant  weather, 
I  understand  the  brethren  found  an  ox  belonging  to  the  govern- 
ment at  Fort  Bridger.  They  killed  it  and  divided  it  among  the 
soldiers  and  others.  At  10  o'clock  Brother  Porter,  who  had 
been  back  at  the  fort,  came  along  and  woke  us  up.  We  saddled 
our  horses  and  started  after  the  camp,  bringing  E.  Snow's  horse 
with  us;  traveled  about  three  miles,  when  Brother  Snow's  horse 
started  back.  Brothers  King  and  Murray  went  back  to  drive 
him  up.  They  met  a  Frenchman,  who  helped  them  to  catch  the 
horse.  He  is  one  of  three  who  are  going  back  in  company 
with  us. 

We  crossed  Black's  Fork  twice,  and  came  seventeen  and 
three-quarters  miles,  and  found  the  camp  stopped  to  feed.  Soon 
after  we  arrived  the  camp  proceeded  on  again.  I  went  ahead 
with  the  camp,  leaving  Brothers  King  and  Murray  to  bait  the 
horses.  We  crossed  Black's  Fork  three  times  this  afternoon, 
came  fourteen  and  three-quarters  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
banks  of  Ham's  Fork,  having  traveled  thirty-two  miles  today. 
The  evening  was  very  cold. 

Thursday,  September  2nd. — The  weather  was  warm  this 
morning.  The  other  two  French  men  arrived  at  the  camp.  They 
had  staid  back  to  hunt  up  some  of  their  horses  that  had 
strayed  away.  At  8  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
crossed  Ham's  Fork  and  traveled  twenty-two  miles  and  camped 
on  the  banks  of  Green  River  about  4  p.  m.,  having  traveled 
over  a  barren  desert  country  during  the  day.  We  found  an 
Indian  here  who  had^left  his  tribe  (Snakes)  two  days  before 
on  the  Sweet  Water.  He  was  going  to  Bridger 's  (Fort).  Soon 
after  we  arrived  it  suddenly  blew  up  very  cold.  I  wrote  a  letter 
this  evening  to  send  back  to  the  valley. 

Friday,  September  3rd. — It  continues  cold  and  cloudy 
weather.  We  started  at  6:30  o'clock,  came  two  miles  and  forded 
the  river,  which  we  found  to  be  very  low ;  proceeded  ten  miles 
and  stopped  at  10  a.  m.  to  feed  on  the  banks  of  Big  Sandy. 
Here  we  remained  about  two  hours  and  then  proceeded  on  sev- 
enteen miles,  forded  the  Big  Sandy  and  encamped  on  its  banks, 
having  come  twenty-seven  miles  today. 

At  this  place  we  found  Daniel  Spencer's  company,  consist- 
ing of  about  fifty  wagons.  They  reported  P.  P.  Pratt 's  com- 
pany to  be  encamped  six  and  three-quarters  miles  back  on  the 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 135 

Little  Sandy.  Brother  Spencer's  camp  was  called  together  and 
Brothers  Young1,  Kimball,  G.  A.  Smith  and  others  made  some 
remarks  and  gave  a  general  description  of  the  Valley,  etc.  The 
evening  was  very  cold. 

Saturday,  September  4th. — The  weather  was  cool,  but 
pleasant,  and  at  8  a.  m.  D.  Spencer's  camp  was  in  motion.  Some 
of  our  company  here  met  with  their  families  and  returned  back 
to  the  Valley.  The  following  are  some  of  their  names:  Wm. 
Mclntire,  Burr  Frost,  Datus  Ensign,  Seth  Taft.  About  the 
same  time  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After  going  seven 
miles  we  encamped  at  noon  on  the  banks  of  Little  Sandy.  Here 
we  found  P.  P.  Pratt 's  company,  consisting  of  between  seventy 
and  eighty  wagons,  a  messenger  having  been  sent  to  delay  them 
this  morning  until  we  arrived.  I  saw  many  old  friends. 

The  Twelve  were  in  council  this  afternoon.  The  people 
were  again  called  together  and  similar  instructions  and  infor- 
mation to  that  of  last  evening  were  given  by  the  Twelve  and 
others.  Geo.  Mills  and  E.  Holden  returned  with  this  company 
to  the  Valley.  I  took  supper  with  Brother  Samuel  Moore  this 
evening.  Sister  Moore  washed  some  clothes  for  me.  The  even- 
ing was  pleasant. 

Sunday,  September  5th. — The  weather  was  fine  and  we 
pursued  our  journey  at  9  a.  m.  One  of  our  horses  was  missing 
and  I  went  down  the  creek  about  a  mile  and  a  half  and  found 
him  and  also  one  of  Brother  Brigham's  and  E.  Snow's.  We 
crossed  the  Big  Sandy  and  came  about  twenty-six  miles  and  en- 
camped near  the  Pacific  Springs.  Here  we  found  two  com- 
panies, Brothers  Smopt's  and  Wallace's.  Soon  after  we  ar- 
rived Brother  Rich 's  company  came  up.  Here  we  found  Brother 
Kimball 's  wagons.  James  Smithers,  Peter  Hanson,  Mary  Helen 
Harris  and  Mary  Fosgrene  were  along.  The  brethren  were 
called  together  this  evening  and  received  similar  instruction  to 
that  which  was  given  to  the  other  companies.  Brother  Young 
said  it  was  his  intention  to  remain  here  tomorrow  and  have  a 
meeting  at  11  o'clock.  The  evening  was  very  cold. 

Monday,  September  6th. — It  was  a  pleasant  day  and  the 
brethren  came  together  about  11  a.  m.  and  were  addressed  by 
E.  Snow  and  others,  who  gave  instructions  similar  to  what 
were  given  to  the  other  companies.  The  Twelve  and  some  others 
met  in  council  this  afternoon.  I  took  a  list  of  the  provisions 
in  Brother  Kimball 's  wagons,  which  amounted  to  2519  Ibs.  of 
breadstuff,  besides  groceries.  James  Smithers  has  1031  Ibs.  of 
breadstuff,  besides  groceries.  Brother  Kimball  thought  it  best 
to  send  back  Thurston  Larsen,  one  of  the  soldiers,  to  help 
Brother  Whipple.  Carlos  Murray  was  also  sent  back  with  F. 
Granger,  who  has  the  charge  of  Hiram  Kimball 's  teams. 


136 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Brother  Whipple  Avill  ha.ve  over  3000  Ibs.  of  provisions  for 
five  persons — Hans  C.  Hanson,  Peter  Hanson,  Thurston  Larson, 
Mary  Fosgrene  and  himself.  Ellen  Saunders  and  M.  E.  Harris 
have  two  barrels  of  flour,  groceries,  etc.  They  will  not  want 
much  assistance  from  him.  The  evening  was  very  cold.  I  wrote 
some  in  a  letter  for  H.  C.  Kimball  to  send  to  Brother  Whipple. 
A  number  of  the  brethren  met  their  families  and  turned  back. 

Tuesday,  September  7th. — The  morning  was  very  cold.  The 
wagon  we  had  belonging  to  Neff  was  sent  back  in  Brother  Wal- 
lace's care,  and  Brother  Nebeker  let  us  have  a  lighter  one. 
About  9  a.  m.  we  started  on  our  journey.  A  messenger  was 
sent  ahead  to  stop  Brother  Taylor's  company.  Soon  after  we 
started  it  blew  up  very  cold  and  began  to  snow,  which  continued 
until  after  we  encamped,  having  come  about  fourteen  miles. 
Here  we  found  Brother  Taylor's  100  encamped  on  the  banks 
of  the  Sweet  Water.  When  the  brethren  had  learned  that  the 
Pioneer  Company  would  encamp  with  them  this  evening,  they 
immediately  made  preparations  to  give  them  a  supper,  which 
was  done  up  in  style.  Toward  evening  the  weather  cleared  off. 
(Here  the  Diary  ends  abruptly.) 

*The  Diarj7  ends  very  abruptly  and  we  have  no  more  writ- 
ten on  the  trip,  which  probably  was  because,  as  we  learn  from 
other  sources,  the  Indians  had  commenced  to  be  troublesome, 
stealing  horses  and  committing  other  depredations. 

"An  exciting  affray  took  place  between  the  Indians  and 
the  pioneers  on  the  morning  of  September  21st.  The  brethren 
"were  just  getting  ready  to  start,  when  the  alarm  was  given  by 
the  men  who  had  been  sent  out  to  gather  up  the  horses,  that 
the  Indians  were  'rushing'  them — driving  them  off.  The  camp 
flew  to  arms  just  in  time  to  receive  the  onslaught  of  the  sav- 
ages, who,  emerging  from  the  timber  and  firing  their  guns, 
charged  upon  them  at  full  speed. 

"There  were  at  least  two  hundred  mounted  warriors.  A 
return  volley  from  the  Pioneers  broke  the  Indian  charge,  and 
the  brethren  then  gave  chase.  The  sight  of  their  daring  cour- 
age spread  consternation  among  the  Indians,  who  broke  and 
fled  incontinently.  The  old  chief  who  had  directed  the  attack 
now  shouted  to  his  band  and  proclaimed  peace  to  the  Pioneers, 
telling  them  that  he  and  his  warriors  were  good  Sioux,  and  had 
mistaken  them  for  Crows  or  Snakes,  with  whom  they  were  at 
war.  The  brethren  thought  it  good  policy  to  accept  the  excuse, 
transparent  though  it  was,  and  to  appear  satisfied  with  the  ex- 
planation. "—Life  of  Heber  C.  Kimball,  page  394. 

Continuing  on  their  way,  the  Pioneers  of  the  returning 
company  arrived  in  safety  at  Winter  Quarters  on  the  31st  of 
October.  The  joy  of  their  meeting  was  no  doubt  very  great,  and 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


137 


they  found  that  during  their  absence  that  peace  and  prosperity 
had  generally  prevailed.  Horace  A.  Egan  was  born  August  17th, 
1847^  and  Helen  Egan  August  28th,  1847,  at  Winter  Quarters, 
just  before  their  return.  The  winter  was  spent  there  with  their 
families.  We  now  turn  to  H.  R.  Esran's  recital. 


Dave    Kimball    and    \\  itV. 


138  PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


SEC.  IV.— SECOND  TRIP  WITH  FAMILY. 
12.— WINTER  QUARTERS. 

How  and  when  Ave  left  this  place  I  do  not  know,  or  how  we 
got  to  Winter  Quarters,  and  I  do  not  remember  of  seeing  father 
from  the  time  last  seen  in  the  rope  factory  to  the  time  we  were 
living  in  our  log  house  in  Winter  Quarters.  How  well  I  remem- 
ber the  excitement  of  us  boys  when  we  saw  the  smoke  of  a 
steamboat  rising  over  the  trees  that  were  on  a  point  of  land 
just  where  the  river  made  a  great  bend  below  the  town.  The 
boat  was  coming  up  stream  and  made  a  great  cloud  of  smoke. 
It  came  on  and  passed  between  our  shore  and  the  island  that 
lay  opposite  the  town,  then  stopped  at  the  next  point  above  for 
wood.  It  was  about  a  mile  away.  Some  of  the  boys  went  up 
there  to  get  a  closer  view,  but  I  was  afraid  I  would  get  my 
jacket  dusted  if  I  went,  so  refused  to  go  with  them.  While  at 
Winter  Quarters  I  saw  the  largest  fish  I  have  ever  seen  in  my 
life.  It  was  a  catfish  caught  by  a  man  named  Sheets.  They 
had  to  load  it  in  the  wagon  by  hauling  it  up  with  ropes.  It  was 
about  two-thirds  the  length  of  the  wagon  bed,  and  oh,  what-  a 
mouth!  I  do  believe  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  very  long  and 
sharp  teeth  I  could  have  crawled  into  that  fish  very  easy.  It 
was  still  alive  when  I  saw  it,  and  the  men  warned  us  boys 
against  putting  our  hands  near  enough  to  be  struck  by  his  bay- 
onet, that  was  laying  on  his  back  about  one-third  of  his  length 
from  his  head  to  his  tail,  and  on  a  hinge  or  joint,  so  he  could 
strike  with  it  at  will,  or  raise  it  and  dive  under  an  enemy  and 
rip  him  open.  That  sight  caused  me  ever  after  to  be  afraid  of 
swimming  in  waters  that  I  was  not  acquainted  with. 

It  was  here  that  I  did  my  first  agricultural  work.  There 
was  a  path  back  of  our  house  that  ran  straight  through  the 
field  to  the  next  street.  Mother  gave  me  a  package  of  sun- 
flower seeds  and  told  me  to  go  down  one  side  and  back  the 
other  and  stick  my  finger  in  the  ground  at  every  step  and  drop 
one  seed  in  the  hole  and  cover  it  up,  and  keep  about  one  foot 
from  the  path.  This  I  did  and  afterwards  saw  two  rows  of 
large  sunflowers  with  pan-like  heads.  The  rows  were  not  ex- 
actly straight,  for  this  was  my  first  gardening  and  I  had  no 
line. 

One  day  I  heard  that  the  hazel  nuts  were  ripe,  so  next  day 
David  Kimball  and  I  went  to  the  Bluffs  after  some.  We 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 139 

found  a  nice  patch  that  had  not  been  culled  over.  "We  each 
nad  a  small  sack  that  would  hold  about  two  quarts.  We  had 
these  about  half  full  when  Dave  went  to  about  the  middle  of 
the  patch  and  said,  "I  claim  from  that  tree  to  that  bush  and 
to  that  tree,"  and  so  on,  turning  and  pointing  out  a  circle  that 
took  in  the  whole  patch  except  a  small  margin  around  the  de- 
scribed circle.  He  kept  watching  that  I  did  not  trespass  on 
his  claim.  The  nuts  were  just  as  good  and  just  as  thick  out- 
side of  his  claim  as  inside.  If  they  had  not  been  I  might  have 
got  a  drubbing  for  stealing.  At  that  time  I  was  a  little  afraid 
of  him,  although  we  had  never  quarreled. 

Well,  we  had  filled  the  sacks  and  were  piling  the  nuts  in- 
side our  shirts,  having  tightened  our  belts  to  keep  them  from 
falling  out.  We  had  gathered  about  all  we  could  handle,  and 
Dave  had  not  covered  one-hundredth  part  of  his  claim,  when 
there  came  up  a  heavy  rainstorm  and  we  had  to  leg  it  for  home, 
where  we  arrived  with  clothes  soaked  through,  and  had  lost 
all  the  nuts  but  those  in  the  sacks.  We  never  went  after  hazel 
nuts  again. 

One  day,  with  a  boy  named  Levi  Green,  we  were  peeling 
the  bark  off  a  slippery  elm  log  that  was  laying  in  the  back 
yard.  We  boys  used  to  get  the  bark  to  eat  or  to  dry  for  future 
use.  Levi,  on  one  side  of  the  log,  had  a  hatchet  with  which  to 
cut  off  the  outside  rough  bark  and  cut  across  the  ends.  Then 
the  bark  could  be  peeled  off  in  long  strips. 

He  had  made  a  strip  ready  for  peeling,  when  I  asked  him 
to  let  me  take  his,  hatchet  to  get  some  ready  on  my  side  of  the 
log.  He  let  me  have  it,  and  as  I  was  working  with  it  he  said, 
"Give  me  the  hatchet."  I  said.  "Just  a  minute."  "I  want 
it  right  now,"  he  said,  so  I  handed  it  to  him  and  laid  both  of 
my  hands  on  top  of  the  log.  "Why  didn't  you  give  it  to  me 
sooner?"  he  said.  "I  will  cut  your  fingers  off,"  and  made  a 
motion  as  if  to  strike  at  my  left  hand,  which  I  drew  quickly 
off,  but  he  changed  the  stroke  and  the  hatchet  cut  off  my  two 
middle  fingers  of  my  right  hand  at  the  first  joint.  One  finger 
was  hanging  by  a  little  piece  of  skin. 

I  ran  to  the  house  crying,  and  as  Mother  wanted  to  cut  the 
skin  that  still  held  the  finger,  I  put  up  a  big  cry  and  begged 
her  to  put  the  finger  on  again.  She  decided  to  do  so,  but 
hardly  believed  it  would  knit  and  grow  there.  She  did  the  best 
she  could  with  splints  and  bandages:  then  went  out  and  found 
the  other  piece,  but  it  was  so  dirty  she  decided  not  to  try 
growing  it  to  its  place,  but  put  it  in  a  bottle  with  some  liquid 
to  preserve  it. 

Mv  f infers  were  not  examined  for  three  davs;  then  Mother 


140  PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

saw  that  I,  in  my  playing,  had  twisted  the  piece  partly  around, 
but  it  was  too  late  to  attempt  to  straighten  it,  as  it  was  joined 
again  good  and  fast.  Many  a  time  since  then  I  have  wished 
she  had  taken  it  off,  for  it  would  have  saved  me  much  trouble 
by  being  out  of  the  way. 

So  you  see  a  small  part  of  me  lays  buried  at  Winter  Quar- 
ters, where  at  the  resurrection  I  must  go  to  make  my  body 
whole.  But  if  that  is  the  plan,  what  a  job  some  people  will 
have  to  collect  the  pieces  and  get  them  into  place.  There  are 
some  few  other  things  I  can  remember  about  Winter  Quarters, 
but  will  pass  them  by. 


13.— ON  TO  SALT  LAKE. 

*0n  the  24th  of  May,  1848,  the  First  Presidency  organized 
the  main  body  of  the  Saints  on  the  Elk  Horn,  preparatory  to 
the  second  journey  to  the  Rocky  mountains.  The  camp  con- 
sisted of  over  six  hundred  wagons,  the  largest  company  that 
had  yet  set  out  to  cross  the  plains,  and  were  under  the  care  and 
supervision  of  Brigham  Young  and  Heber  C.  Kimball.  We 
have  no  family  Diary  of  this  trip,  but  Howard  R.  writes  from 
memory  as  follows: 

I  recollect  getting  in  the  covered  wagon  that  took  us  away 
from  Winter  Quarters,  but  don't  remember  of  seeing  Father 
till  later.  We  had  arrived  at  the  Horn  River  and  crossed  the 
ferry  and  camped  for  the  night  about  two  hundred  yards  from 
it.  That  evening  there  was  much  excitement  in  camp,  as  a  report 
had  come  in  from  the  herders  that  a  band  of  Indians  were  run- 
ning off  all  the  stock.  The  next  morning  we  heard  that  the 
men  had  saved  the  stock,  but  a  couple  of  our  men  had  been 
wounded.  Before  noon,  as  I  was  sitting  in  the  front  of  the 
wagon,  I  saw  two  men  holding  Father  up  and  leading  him 
towards  our  wagon  from  the  ferry.  His  arms  were  hanging" 
down  and  his  chin  was  on  his  breast.  I  heard  the  men  say  that 
the  Indians  had  shot  him  through  the  wrist.  He  had  swum 
the  Horn  River  that  way,  and  had  lost  so  much  blood  he  could 
not  do  it  again,  so  they  had  to  bring  him  around  by  the  ferry. 
I  now  could  see  him  every  day  and  watch  Dr.  Bernhisel  dress 
the  wound  and  trim  the  ends  of  the  cords  with  a  pair  of  scis- 
sors where  they  stuck  out  of  the  flesh.  Father  had  been  shot 
in  the  wrist  of  his  right  hand,  and  the  bullet  cut  every  cord 
of  the  thumb  and  fingers  in  the  course,  but  broke  no  bones.  It 
was  here  that  Thomas  Ricks  Avas  shot  in  the  back  with  buck- 
shot, but  not  killed. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 141 

14.— SCENES  BY  THE  WAY. 

We  left  the  Horn  River,  and  the  next  I  remember  was  see- 
ing  Fort  Laramie.  We  were  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Platte 
River  from  the  fort.  We  saw  it  for  the  most  of  two  days, 
first  in  the  west  and  then  in  the  east. 

Buffalo  Stampede. — The  next  thing  I  remember  was  one 
day  we  had  camped  for  noon.  I  was  playing  near  the  end  of 
the  wagon  tongue.  Our  wagon  was  the  first  on  that  wing  of 
the  corral.  Mother  caught  her  boys,  and  before  I  knew  any- 
thing more  we  landed  in  the  wagon,  and  she  followed,  and  just 
in  time,  for  a  stampeded  herd  of  buffalos  was  coming  straight 
for  the  camp.  They  divided  just  a  little  way  from  the  camp, 
some  passing  the  back,  some  the  front  of  the  corral.  Some  of 
them  passed  over  the  end  of  our  wagon  tongue,  doing  no  dam- 
age, but  the  part  that  passed  the  back  end  struck  and  broke  a 
hind  wheel  of  the  last  Avagon  in  our  wing.  We  staid  there  to 
repair  damages  till  next  day. 

Prairie  Dogs. — I  remember  the  first  colony  of  prairie  dogs 
we  passed  through.  The  whole  earth  seemed  to  be  covered  with 
little  mounds,  on  which  we  could  see  the  dogs  sitting  some- 
times. There  was  a  warning  given  out  that  if  anyone  shot  one 
of  these  dogs  and  the  body  fell  into  a  hole,  not  to  reach  for  it 
with  the  naked  hand,  as  the  rattlesnakes  lived  in  the  same  holes 
as  the  dogs  did. 

When  a  dog  was  shot,  while  standing  on  one  end  on  top 
of  a  mound,  it  always  fell  into  the  hole,  and  it  was  dangerous 
to  try  to  get  it,  other  than  with  a  stick.  These  dog  colonies 
would  cover  acres,  but  the  colonies  would  be  miles  apart.  It 
seems  to  me  now  that  we  could  see  dozens  of  the  dogs  at  a  time 
all  sitting  upright  and  watching  our  train,  and  if  a  person 
started  towards  them  there  would  be  a  general  barking  chorus 
and  instantly  every  dog  would  disappear  and  not  appear  again 
till  the  intruder  had  left  to  a  safe  distance. 

Antelope. — One  day  as  our  train  Avas  passing  the  open  part 
of  a  bend  in  the  river,  I  was  sitting  in  the  front  end  of  the 
wagon,  when  Father,  Avho  was  driving,  ran  to  the  side  of  the 
wagon  and  said,  "Mother,  quick,  my  gun,"  Mother  was  as 
quick  as  she  could  be,  but  before  she  could  pass  the  gun  out 
Father  said,  "too  late."  There  had  been  an  antelope  in  the 
bend  and  as  the  train  reached  from  one  point  to  another  he 
could  not  pass  out  only  by  running  betAveen  the  river  and  the 
train,  in  doing  this  it  brought  him  within  five  or  six  rods  of 
us,  and  all  the  train  back  of  us.  I  saAv  the  animal  and  Father 
told  us  it  Avas  an  antelope,  and,  if  he  could  have  got  his  gun 
quick  enough  Ave  could  have  had  some  nice  meat.  Mother  said 


142 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

it  was  a  shame  to  kill  such  a  pretty  animal  as  that.  We  heard 
a  number  of  shots  but  I  did  not  know  till  suppertime  that 
someone  had  killed  it,  when  Mother  said.  "This  is  some  oi?  that 
pretty  antelope  you  saw  when  Father  wanted  his  gun." 

One  afternoon  we  camped  close  to  the  river  bank.  There 
was  a  large  island  at  this  place  separated  from  our  bank  of 
the  river  by  a  slougii  or  small  stream  of  very  clear  and  deep 
water  and  about  three  rods  wide.  The  men  wanted  to  see  if 
the  grass  was  better  on  the  island.  It  was  very  poor  every- 
where else,  having  been  grazed  off  by  the  large  herds  of 
buffalo  and  other  grass  eating  animals. 

The  bank  of  the  river  here  from  the  water  to  the  top 
was  higher  than  a  man's  head.  I  was  standing  on  this  bank 
when  one  of  the  men  volunteered  to  swim  over  and  see  how  it 
was  on  the  island.  I  saw  him  go  down  to  the  water  edge. 
There  was  just  enough  room  for  him  to  stand  between  the 
bank  and  the  water.  He  took  all  his  clothes  off  and  slipped 
into  the  water.  That  was  the  first  time  I  ever  saw  every  mo- 
tion a  person  makes  while  swimming.  I  saw  him  get  out  on 
the  other  side  and  disappear  in  the  timber,  but  remember 
no  more  about  this  affair. 

One  day  our  wagon  was  the  last  in  the  train  and  Mother, 
who  was  driving  the  team,  let  me  get  out  and  walk  behind 
the  wagon.  I  took  my  time  and  gradually  fell  back  till  I 
could  hardly  see  the  wagon,  when  I  noticed  this  it  scared 
me  so  I  ran  at  my  fastest  speed,  but  soon  was  out  of  wind 
and  went  very  slow  again  to  gain  my  breath,  and  took  an- 
other run,  but  I  was  getting  farther  behind  all  the  time.  'As 
the  train  was  nearing  a  rolling  country,  where.  I  couldn't  be 
seen,  Mother  got  George  Redding  to  come  back  and  get  me. 

He  took  hold  of  my  hand  and  tried  to  make  me  run  the 
whole  distance  to  the  train,  but  finding  I  was  about  all  in 
he  swung  me  on  his  back  and  tried  to  rattle  my  teeth  out  by 
running  at  a  dog  trot,  stamping  his  feet  as  hard  as  he  could 
to  give  me  a  good  jolting,  and  something  to  remember  him 
by,  which  this  proves  I  do,  for  I  never  got  very  far  from  the 
wagon  again. 

I  remember  of  helping  Mother  gather  '''buffalo  chips"  for 
fire  material,  as  there  was  nothing  else  and  they  made  a  good 
fire.  When  we  camped  where  there  was  plenty  of  them  we 
would  collect  a  couple  of  sacks  full  and  carry  them  to  the 
next  camp,  for  sometimes  they  would  be  very  scarce. 

Now  this  is  what  T  heard  at  the  time,  but  did  not  see: 
Some  one  in  the  camp  had  lost  part  of  a  sack  of  beans.  Some 
one  had  stolen  them.  Part  of  them  were  found  in  the  feed 
box  of  a  certain  man,  where  he  had  placed  them  for  his  team 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 143 

to  eat,  thinking  it  was  corn.  He  had  stolen  them  after  dark 
and  by  his  mistaking1  beans  for  corn  was  detected.  I  could 
mention  the  man's  name,  but  think  it  best  not  to. 


Chimney    Rock     From    the    Pioneer    Road. 

I  recollect  seeing  Chimney  Rock.  It  was  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  but  quite  plainly  seen  from  our  side.  Some 
of  the  men  went  across  to  get  a  close  view  of  it. 

One  day  we  camped  a  little  ways  from  a  dry  Salaratus 
Lake.  Mother  took  me  along  with  her  to  get  some.  It  was 
very  hard  and  smooth  and  we  had  only  table  knives  to  dig  it 
out,  but  I  remember  we  got  as  much  as  Mother  could  carry 
to  the  wagon.  It  lasted  for  a  number  of  years  after  we  ar- 
rived in  the  valley.  This  place  is  not  far  east  of  Independence 
Rock,  which  I  remember  very  well.  The  road  passes  around 
the  southern  end  of  the  rock  and  only  a  couple  of  rods  from 
it.  To  "me  it  appeared  to  be  the  shape  of  the  Salt  Lake  Taber- 
nacle, only  very  much  larger.  There  was  hundreds  of  names 
of  people  Avritten  on  it.  Some  in  large  letters  and  far  out  of 
the  reach  of  anyone  standing  on  the  ground.  The  men  had 
been  warned  about  climbing  on  top,  as  there  were  a  number 
of  large  cracks  running  crossways  that  were  very  deep  and 
to  fall  in  one  of  them  was  sure  death  and  probably  the  body 
could  never  be  found. 

Next  we  came  to  the  Sweet  Water,  that  runs  through  the 
Devil's  Gate.  Traveling  up  this  stream,  which  was  very 
crooked,  Mother  was  driving  when  the  next  wagon  ahead  of 
ours  turned  over  into  a  creek  or  bog  hole.  The  driver  (a  man 
named  Holt.  I  believe),  did  not  swing  out  far  enough  to 
strike  the  bridge  fair,  so  two  wheels  missed  the  bridge.  There 
were  two  children  in  the  wagon  sitting  on  top  of  boxes  and 


144 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


bales,  but  in  a  twinkling  this  was  reversed,  children  under 
and  only  the  wagon  cover  to^keep  them  from  drowning.  The 
man  called  for  help  and  soon  the  men  came  running  from 
both  ways.  The  children  had  not  been  severely  hurt  and  all 
was  on  the  move  again  soon  after. 

Devil's  Gate,  we  could  see  as  we  climbed  the  bluffs  to 
the  west.  The  very 'deep  and  narrow  cut  through  which  the 
water  ran,  it  seemed  to  me,  was  over  a  hundred  feet  deep, 
with  almost  perpendicular  walls  and  about  twenty-five  to 
forty  feet  apart  at  the  top. 

Fort  Bridger  is  the  next  place  remembered,  with  its  low 
dirt  covered  houses  near  the  bank  of  the  river.  Indians  and 
white  men  all  dressed  in  buckin  clothes,  and  more  dogs,  half- 


Camping    at    Echo    Canyon. 

bred  wolf,  than  you  could  shake  a  stick  at.  It  was  here  that 
Father  traded  for  the  same  pistol  he  had  held  in  his,  hand 
and  dropped,  when  shot,  in  the  fight  at  the  Horn  River.  It 
had  passed  from  Indian  to  Indian  and  arrived  at  Bridger  long 
before  we  did. 

I  remember  Echo  Canyon,  the  high  perpendicular  rocks  on 
the  off  side  of  the  road  most  of  the  way  through.  We  could 
hear  the  men  calling  and  dogs  barking  from  one  cliff  to  an- 
other, although  the  ones  starting  the  sound  was  far  ahead  of 
us,  it  went  bounding  from  cliff  to  cliff,  repeating  the  sound 
perfectly. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST \45 

"Mother  has  related  the  following  many  times  about  Echo 
Canyon:  At  the  head  or  summit,  before  entering  Echo  Can- 
yon, Father  was  called  to  assist  in  some  repairs  that  were 
necessary  on  Heber  C.  Kimball's  wagon,  which  made  it  neces- 
sary for  Mother  to  drive  the  team  until  he  should  catch  up, 
which  he  expected  would  not  be  long. 

She  had  two  yoke  of  cattle  and  a  yoke  of  cows,  which 
she  drove  down  that  canyon,  and  she  missed  more  stumps  and 
rocks  than  any  other  driver,  so  it  was  said,  crossing  the  stream 
twenty-seven  times.  Some  times  she  would  be  ahead  of  the 
team,  some  times  between  the  cattle  and  wagon,  to  pass  brush, 
trees  and  rocks. 

Her  son  Erastus  was  in  the  wagon,  having  been  run  over. 
It  seems  he  was  being  lifted  into  the  wagon,  but  slipped  in 
some  way  and  fell  under  the  tongue  and  would  have  escaped 
all  right,  only  on  account  of  a  pig  that  was  tied  under  the 
back  of  the  wagon.  In  trying  to  get  out  of  the  way  of  the 
pig  his  foot  got  under  the  wheel. 

Those  of  the  family  who  could  walk  were  on  ahead  and 
Mother's  was  the  lead  team.  Those  ahead  would  holler  out, 

"Here  is  another  creek."  and  Mother  would  say,  "D n 

the  creeks ! ' '  This  she  used  to  tell  many  times.  Howard  R. 
further  states : 

Then  we  came  to  Weber  River  and  when  we  left  the  camp 
here  Father  said  we  had  to  climb  a  mountain  for  seven  miles, 
and  I  thought  before  we  did  get  to  the  top  we  had  come  seven 
hundred  miles,  for  he  had  us  walk  up  every  step  of  it,  and 
not  only  that,  but  down  the  other  side,  where  it  was  awful 
steep,  and  everything  loose  in  the  wagon  was  liable  to  attempt 
to  'pass  the  team.  The  net  day  we  were  on  the  little  mountain, 
where  Father  took  us  to  one  side  of  the  road  and  pointed  out 
the  place  where  we  would  live  in  the  great  Salt  Lake  Valley. 
It  was  two  more  days  when  Father  drove  the  team  and  landed 
the  wagon  near  to  the  door  of  a  house,  near  the  middle  of  the 
south  side  of  the  north  fort,  where  we  lived  for  a  couple  of 
years. 

•Before  their  arrival,  the  Fort  at  Salt  Lake  Valley  con- 
tained 423  apartments  and  1670  people  and  875  acres  had  been 
sown  to  winter  wheat.  It  was  in  June  of  this  year  that  myriads 
of  big  crickets  came  down  from  the  mountains  and  would  have 
devoured  the  crops,  but  for  the  arrival  of  immense  flocks  of 
seagulls,  which  devoured  the  crickets. 


PART  II. 

SALT  LAKE:   INCIDENTS  OF  EARLY 
SETTLEMENT. 

SEC.  I.— OUR  HOME  LIFE. 
15.— THE  OLD  FORT. 

*It  was  in  September,  1848,  that  the  family  arrived  in  Salt 
Lake  Valley  and  moved  into  a  room  of  the  Old  Fort  that  had 
been  provided  for  them.  This  Old  Fort  had  been  commenced 
when  Father  was  at  Salt  Lake  on  the  first  trip  and  was  built 
on  the  square  now  called  Pioneer  Park.  Howard  R.  goes  on 
to  say : 

I  remember  the  rainy  season,  when  the  sun  was  not  seen 
for  nearly  a  month.  The  roof  of  our  house  was  a  shed  roof, 
covered  with  inch  lumber,  plastered  with  clay  on  the  outside. 
The  roof  had  sagged  so  that  there  was  quite  a  depression  in 
the  center.  This  had  filled  with  water  and  was  leaking 
through  to  the  room  below. 

Heber  C.  Kimball  called  in  to  see  how  we  were  all  get- 
ting along.  He  had  not  sat  there  long  when  the  roof  settled 
more  with  a  loud  crack.  Kimball  jumped  out  of  the  door  and 
called  Mother  to  come  out  quick  or  the  roof  would  fall  on 
her.  No  she  would  not  go  out,  but  invited  him  to  come  back 
in  out  of  the  rain,  but  no,  he  went  off  in  a  hurry. 

When  he  had  gone  Mother  placed  a  tub  under  where  the 
drip  was,  then  stood  up  in  a  chair  and  run  a  table  knife  up  be- 
tween the  boards,  so  letting  the  water  come  down  in  a  stream 
faster  than  she  could  carry  it  in  the  bucket  to -the  door.  Soon 
the  weight  on  the  roof  was  lessened  enousrh  to  allow  the  roof 
to  spring  back  some,  and  the  danger  of  it  falling  in  was  re- 
moved. 

A  few  minutes  after  this  had  been  done  a  man  came  run- 
ning to  the  door  with  a  post  to  place  under  the  sagging  roof 
to  hold  it  up.  He  said  Brother  Kimball  had  sent  him.  Moth- 
er told  him  she  would  not  have  a  post  set  up  in  the  middle  of 
her  parlor  and  for  him  to  tell  Brother  Kimball  that  the  danger 


148  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

was  passed  and  he  could  now  return  and  finish  his  visit  if  he 
so  desired. 

Of  late  years  I  often  think  of  what  a  hard  life  Mother 
had  in  pioneer  days,  but  I  suppose  that  was  the  lot  of  all 
the  pioneers ;  digging  roots  and  gathering  greens,  catching 
fish  in  the  Jordan  itiver,  collecting  anything  ea.tn.hie  to  make 
what  little  flour  and  cornmeal  we  had  last  till  another  sup- 
ply could  be  procured,  was  the  common  lot.  Wood  was  also 
scarce,  even  the  bark  of  the  fence  poles  was  stripped  off  for 
fuel,  for  the  men  could  not  spare  the  time  to  haul  wood  from 
the  canyons. 

Father  was  away  most  all  the  time  working  for  the  church 
and  Mother  would  never  ask  for  help  if  she  could  avoid  it. 
Possibly  she  could  have  got  along  easier  and  with  less  trouble 
if  she  had  not  been  so  independent.  I  have  heard  her  say  that 
she  would  work  her  finger  ends  off  before  she  would  ask  for 
assistance. 


16.— OUR  NEW  HOME. 

After  we  moved  out  of  the  Fort  to  our  new  home,  on  the 
second  lot  south  of  the  corner  of  First  North  and  Main 
Street,  in  April,  1849,  Mother  had  a  little  better  time  of  it 
than  before.  We  had  a  house  built  of  adobes  with  a  shingle 
roof.  There  was  but  one  large  room  that  was  plastered  sides 
and  ceiling,  and  a  lumber  floor  that  Mother  used  to  mop  every 
day.  She  took  quite  a  pride  in  her  white  floor.  It  was  in 
this  house,  June  13,  1851,  that  W.  M.  Egan  was  born.  Here 
we  could  keep  a  pig  and  some  poultry,  which  helped  along 
very  nicely,  besides  we  were  noAv  able  to  keep  a  cow. 

Oh,  we  were  just  beginning  to  live  fat,  and  we  had  our 
garden  in.  It  was  here  that  I  saw  the  largest  spider  that  I 
ever  did  in  my  life.  Mother  heard  the  chickens  making  a 
great,  fuss  back  of  the  house.  She  looked  out  of  the  back  win- 
dow and  saw  the  chickens  standing  in  a  ring  around  a  large 
spider.  It  was  standing  as  high  as  possible  with  one  leg 
raised,  and  striking  at  the  hens  when  they  ventured  too  close. 
Mother  got  a  tin  box  about  three  by  six  inches,  and  one  and 
a  half  inches  deep,  laying  this  on  the  ground  she  drove  the 
thing  over  the*  box.  Where  it  stood  its  legs  reached,  the  ground 
each  side  of  the  box  without  touching  it.  Mother  gave  it  a  tap 
with  a  stick  and  it  pulled  its  legs  in  and  settled  down  in  the 
box,  which  it  nearly  filled.  Mother  slid  the  cover  on  the  box 
and  set  it  in  the  window  and  when  she  went  to  let  a  visitor 
see  it,  found  that  the  sun,  shining  on  the  box,  had  killed  the 
spider.  Its  body  was  about  the  size  of  a  silver  quarter. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


149 


Mother  pinned  it  to  a  board  with  a  needle  and  kept  it  for  a 
long  time  for  people  to  see. 

Laying  Cornerstone  of  Temple. — It  was  while  we  lived 
here  that  I  witnessed  the  first  breaking  of  ground  for  the 
foundation  of  the  Temple  (February  14,  1853),  and  a  few 
months  after,  the  laying  of  the  cornerstone  (April  6,  1853), 
when  there  seemed  to  be  thousands  of  people  there  to  wit- 
ness it.  There  was  an  immense  mound  of  earth  near  the 
southwest  corner  of  where  the  Temple  was  to  be  built.  This 
earth  was  what  had  been  dug  out  of  the  place  for  the  founda- 
tion. The  day  was  set  for  the  laying  of  the  cornerstone.  This 
mound  as  well  as  the  whole  surrounding  space  was  covered 
by  a  very  large  number  of  very  happy  people.  Some  had  come 
many  miles  to  witness  the  ceremony.  With  some  of  my  boy 
friends  I  stood  on  the  northeast  side  near  the  top  of  the 
mound,  and  had  a  good,  view  of  the  southeast  corner,  where  the 
stone  was  laid.  And  since  that  time  I  have  seen  the  gradual 
growth  of  those  heavy  walls  up  to  the  capstone,  being  about 
forty  years  from  the  breaking  of  the  ground  to  the  capstone. 


Late   View   of   Salt   Lake   Temple. 

There  are  a  great  many  events  that  come  to  my  mind,  while 
we  lived  just  across  the  street  from  Heber  C.  Kimball.  I 
shoveled  dirt  with  the  rest  of  the  boys  to  dig  out  the  place  for 
the  foundation  of  the  large  adobe  two-story  house  of  Brother 
Kimball 's.  I  remember  when  the  first  grading  of  Main  street 
was  being  done  north  of  Temple  block,  how  sorry  I  felt  to 
see  a  man  cut  down  a  very  large  oak  tree  that  was  standing 
in  the  middle  of  where  they  wanted  the  road.  There  was 


150  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

only  one  more  tree  as  large  and  that  stood  some  distance  to 
the  southeast,  I  think,  in  Bishop  Whitney's  lot.  Each  year 
they  were  loaded  down  with  acorns.  I  have  climbed  both  of 
these  trees  to  gather  them.  I  can't  see  now  why  such  land- 
marks should  not  have  been  preserved. 


17.— GRASSHOPPERS    AND    CRICKETS. 

It  was  Avhile  we  lived  here  that  we  had  the  grasshopper 
invasion.  I  remember  that  during  the  heat  of  the  day  they 
were  so  thick  in  the  sky  that  at  times  you  could  not  see  the 
sun,  and  where  they  would  light  for  the  night,  or  when  the 
wind  was  too  strong  from  the  direction  they  wanted  to  travel, 
they  destroyed  everything  green.  All  of  this  mighty  army  of 
hoppers  were  traveling  in  a  southeasterly  direction  and  in 
two  or  three  days  had  finished  their  work  here  and  passed  on. 
Over  at  the  great  lake  they  did  not  fare  so  well.  There  along 
the  shore  could  be  seen  great  windrows  of  their  bodies  that  had 
been  washed  ashore  by  the  north  winds.  Near  Black  Rock 
there  were  three  such  rows,  so  wide  and  high  that  a  man  could 
have  filled  a  wagon  bed  with  them  as  quick  as  he  could  have 
shoveled  that  much  sand,  and  the  whole  shore  line  facing  the 
north  was  just  the  same.  Millions  of  bushels  of  preserved  or 
pickeled  grasshoppers,  that  would  do  no  more  harm. 

Crickets. — Oh!  yes,  I  must  not  forget  them!  Well  they 
hatched  out  all  along  on  top  of  the  bench  land,  and  as  they 
grew  kept  working  down  hill,  leaving  nothing  green  behind  ex- 
cept sage  brush.  The  road  north  of  our  place  ran  along'  the 
lower  level  of  the  bench,  the  grain  and  hay  fields  being  still 
farther  down  and  a  fence  between  the  road  and  fields.  When 
the  crickets  got  near  the  road,  war  was  declared  and  the  fight 
was  on ;  men,  women  and  children  walking  back  and  forth  swing- 
ing brooms  made  of  willows  or  bunches  of  grass,  trying  to  drive 
the  enemy  back,  but  with  very  little  success. 

This  kind  of  warfare  only  made  the  enemy  more  hungry, 
and  every  morning  would  find  them  nearer  the  grain,  till  at  last, 
was  put  in  operation,  our  biggest  gun,  which  consisted  of  all 
the  sheep,  cows  and  horses  that  could  be  collected.  These  were 
crowded  together  and  driven  back  and  forth  the  length  of  the 
field  slaying  the  enemy  by  the  legions.  Thus  it  only  required 
about  a  week  to  save  part  of  the  crop,  but  a  little  was  better 
than  none  those  days.  The  next  year  this  was  repeated,  only 
on  a  smaller  scale,  for  the  enemy's  ranks  had  been  sadly  de- 
pleted by  the  large  flocks  of  sea  gulls  that  used  them  for  food. 

*This  was  in  following  years  after  the  sea  gulls  had  saved 
the  first  crop. 


P  I  O  N  E  E  R  I  X  G    THE    WEST 151 

18.— ANOTHER  HOME. 

When  Father  returned  from  one  of  his  trips  he  got  ac- 
quainted with  a  couple  of  men  named  Mr.  Moore  and  W.  E. 
Horner.  Together  they  bought  a  city  lot  in  the  Nineteenth 
ward.  On  this  lot  had.  been  built  a  very  large  barn  intended  for 
a  livery  stable.  The  man  Horner  was  some  of  a  horse  doctor, 
and  Father  and  Moore  gave  him  the  reins  to  do  as  he  thought 
best.  The  lot  was  a  corner  lot  and  directly  cata-cornered  from 
the  northeast  corner  of  union  square. 

The  barn  was  built  cross  ways  of  the  lot  and  about  a  third 
of  its  length  down  from  the  south  end.  There  had  been  an 
adobie  house  built  about  sixteen  feet  south  of  the  southeast 
corner  of  the  barn,  leaving  a  space  for  a  shed,  which  was  sup- 
ported at  the  corner  of  the  barn  by  a  large  squared  log  for  a 
post  on  Avhich  were  placed  the  plates  to  hold  the  roof.  After- 
ward it  had  been  decided  to  make  another  room  of  this  by  lay- 
ing up  three  adobie  walls,  joining  onto  the  first  room  and  of 
the  same  width,  and  one  roof  to  cover  all.  There  was  a  door  in 
the  first  room  facing  the  south  street  and  a  window  in  the  west 
side.  The  new  room  had  a  door  and  window  on  the  west  side, 
a  door  on  the  east  side,  and  a  window  in  the  north  end.  From 
the  barn  south  was  all  open  ground,  sometimes  used  by  emi- 
grants for  camping.  From  the  barn  north  the  lot  was  fenced 
with  a  strong  fence,  making  a  secure  corral  to  turn  animals  in, 
to  feed. 

Mr.  Moore  did  not  stay  long  in  the  partnership  and  Horner 
went  east  to  bring  his  wife  across  the  plains,  and  all  this  time 
there  was  not  much  done  with  the  stable.  When  Horner  came 
back  he  built  a  house  on  the  next  lot  north  of  the  barn,  and 
for  a  whi^e  business  was  flourishing,  at  least  in  the  summer  time, 
but  taken  all  together.  Father,  when  they  tried  to  settle  up,  was 
not  satisfied  and  bought  Horner  out,  calculating  to  make  a 
dairy  barn  of  it  as  soon  as  he  could  make  the  proper  arrange- 
ments. 

The  barn  had  been  built  on  large  flat  rocks  placed  at  in- 
tervals along  the  outer  side  principally  under  the  joints  of  the 
heavy  bed  timbers.  The  rocks  had  been  sunk  in  the  ground  so 
there  was  but  a  small  space  between  the  sills  and  the  ground. 
Earth  had  been  placed  all  around  to  stop  the  draft.  Us  boys, 
and  many  of  the  neighboring  boys,  used  to  spend  manv  an  hour 
under  there  crawlinsr  from  one  place  to  another.  Sometimes 
digging  trenches  in  the  hard  ground  so  we  could  crawl  under  a 
beam  to  get  to  another  corner  that  we  couldn't  reach  without. 


152 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

19.— THE  BURNING  OF  THE  BARN. 

One  day  us  boys  took  our  little  cart  and  went  up  on  the  hill- 
side to  get  some  oak  brush  for  firewood.  We  were  about  to 
start  for  home  when  we  chanced  to  see  a  small  blaze  at  the  east 
end  of  the  barn,  watching  this  for  a  very  few  moments  we  saw 
the  flame  spread  all  over  that  end.  We  were  about  a  half  mile 
away.  We  dropped  everything  and  ran  as  fast  as  we  could  for 
home. 

When  we  arrived  there  the  job  had  been  completed,  nothing 
left  of  the  barn  but  a  huge  pile  of  live  coals.  Mother  was  sitting 
out  in  the  yard  surrounded  by  her  household  goods  that  had 
been  quickly  removed  to  a  safe  distance.  They  had  not  been 
handled  very  carefully  and  I  remember  Mother  saying  they 
might  as  well  have  been  left  to  burn  as  to  have  been  smashed 
to  pieces  as  some  of  the  things  were.  The  house  was  saved,  but 
somewhat  damaged.  The  large  corner  post  I  have  mentioned 
was  nearly  burned  out.  The  north  window  was  burned,  and  the 
glass  melted  and  run  to  the  ground.  The  shingles  near  the  north 
end  were  badly  scorched.  The  whole  place  would  have  been 
swept  clean  if  it  had  not  been  that  there  was  a  large  stream  of 
water  at  hand  which  was  turned  in  the  lot  and  the  whole  house 
was  kept  under  a  sheet  of  water. 

Now  the  cause  of  the  fire  was  learned  from  Mother.  But 
first  let  me  say  that  there  was  no  stoves  in  the  house.  All  the 
cooking  was  done  by  an  open  fireplace,  one  such  being  in  each 
room.  The  wind  was  blowing  quite  a  gale  from  the  south.  This 
helped  to  save  the  house,  but  caused  the  blaze. 

The  woman  that  lived  in  the  south  room  had  let  her  fire 
die  out,  and  came  to  Mother  to  g'et  some  live  coals  to  start  a 
fire  with.  She  got  some  on  a  shovel  and  went  out  of  the  back 
door,  but  soon  returned  for  more,  saying  the  others  had  all 
blowed  away.  She  had  just  passed  out  the  second  time  when 
the  alarm  of  fire  was  given  and  people  from  all  directions  came 
running  with  buckets  and  ladders  and  the  fight  was  on.  For 
days  the  stream  of  water  was  running  into  that  pile  of  coals. 
There  was  three  horses  in  the  stalls.  They  could  get  out.  but 
two  which  were  turned  loose  in  the  corral  ran  back  through  the 
flames,  one  reaching  his  stall,  the  other  getting  only  part  way, 
as  shown  by  what  was  left  of  them  after  the  fire  had  been 
killed. 

We  lost  all  of  our  chickens,  and  our  pig  had  lost  all  of  his 
bristles,  while  his  pen  was  burning  so  he  could  escape.  There 
was  about  thirty  tons  of  hay  in  tlje  barn,  and  the  grain  room 
was  full  of  oats  and  barley.  There  were  four  sets  of  harness 
and  some  saddles  in  the  harness  room.  All  went  up  in  smoke, 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 


153 


besides  a  good  many  carpenter  tools.  The  flames  had  spread 
so  rapidly  that  it  was  imposible  to  save  much  that  was  in  the 
barn.  -The  two  horses  might  have  been  saved  if  they  had  been 
tied  to  a  post  when  taken  out. 

Well,  we  slept  in  our  house  that  night,  a  blanket  being  put 
up  at  the  north  window  hole,  but  I  don't  think  Mother  slept 
much.  There  was  plenty  of  help  offered  to  replace  the  furni- 
ture back  in  the  house,  but  Mother  wanted  time  to  consider  if  it 
would  not  be  just  as  well  to  finish  the  smashing  and  breaking 
business  where  it  was. 


Upper  Main  Street,  Salt  Lake  City,  1860.      Bishop  Hunter's  Residence,  Telegraph 
Office,   Etc.,  Just   North   ofl  Deseret   National   Bank   Building. 


154  PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


SEC.  II.— RELICS. 
20.— INDIAN  MOUNDS. 

There  was  a  couple  of  small  mounds  on  the  south  side  of 
the  lot  just  where  the  fence  was  to  be  placed.  These  had  to  be 
cut  down  to  the  level  of  the  surrounding  land,  and  by  doing 
this  there  was  dug  up  a  large  number  of  human  bones,  and  also 
quantities  of  some  kind  of  berries  that  were  petrified.  There 
was  quite  a  number  of  arrow  spikes  made  of  black  and  white 
flint,  and  some  few  pieces  of  pottery  of  a  dark  brown  color.  This 
part  of  the  lot  was  covered  all  over  with  large  cobble  stones, 
while  all  around  it  for  some  distance  there  were  none. 


21.— THE  INDIAN  PORTRAIT. 

In  the  largest  red  ravine  that  leads  down  from  Ensign 
Peak  bench,  and  about  half  way  to  the  bottom,  was  a  cliff  of 
rocks  from  side  to  side,  and  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet 
high.  It  was  more  than  perpendicular,  for  the  top  leaned  over 
to  such  an  extent  that  water  coming  down  the  gulch  would  fall 
clear  off  the  face  of  the  cliff,  which  was  composed  of  a  con- 
glomeration of  different  kinds  of  stones  all  cemented  together 
with  hardpan. 

On  the  right  hand  side  as  you  go  up,  and  some  ten  feet 
above  the  steep  sloping  earth  at  the  bottom,  was  embedded  in 
the  walls  a  boulder  about.three  feet  in  diameter,  flush  with  the 
face  of  the  wall.  On  this  boulder  was  painted,  with  red,  blue, 
and  black  material,  the  figure  of  an  Indian  sitting  on  his  horse. 
He  was  a  big,  broad-shouldered  man,  dressed  in  the  Indian 
fashion,  large  plumes  of  feathers  on  his  head,  a  long  spear  iu 
one  hand,  the  other  held  the  bridle  reins.  Just  close  back  of 
him  on  the  same  rock  was  a  small  band  of  Indians  all  on  horses, 
apparently  some  distance  away,  but  all  could  be  seen  very 
plainly. 

The  horses  were  almost  as  perfectly  drawn  as  could  be  by 
a  camera.  The  Indian  was  in  the  correct  position  for  sitting  a 
horseback,  and  must  have  been  taken  from  life,  but  by  whom? 
and  what  kind  of  paint  used,  to  stand  the  weather  so  long?  It 
could  not  be  washed  off  and  when  I  last  saw  it,  it  was  just  as 
bright  as  ever,  only  where  the  boys  had  tried  to  chip  off  a  piece 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 155 

that  would  have  some  of  the  paint  on,  by  throwing  small  boul- 
ders at  it,  thus  marring  the  painting  badly. 

That  is  another  thing  that  should  have  been  preserved.  It 
could  have  been  easily  chiseled  out  and  carried  away. 

The  Tannery. — Father  owned  an  interest  in  the  Margetcs 
tannery,  but  when  and  how  he  got  out  of  it  I  do  not  know,  but 
I  do  know  that  the  venture  never  made  him  a  millionaire.  This 
tannery  was  just  across  the  street  west  of  our  home. 

*The  tannery  was  started  by  Richard  Margetts,  Father  and 
Robert  Golding,  the  latter  of  whom  had  a  tannery  a  block  and 
a  half  north  of  our  home.  I  think  Father  put  in  a  piece  of 
Main  street  property  and  finally  took  it  out  in  boots  and  shoes 
for  his  Deep  Creek  store. 

Deep  Snow. — Cattle  Starving. — One  morning  in  1857  I 
awoke  to  find  a  heavy  snowstorm  had  set  in,  and  it  continued 
all  day,  all  night,  and  all  next  day,  and  until  some  time  in  the 
night.  The  next  morning  when  I  was  able  to  go  out  I  found 
that  the  snow  was  up  to  my  waist  or  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
deep  on  a  level.  Some  places  eight  feet  deep  in  the  valley.  It 
was  some  days  before  the  roads  were  broke  open  so  travel  could 
be  resumed. 

Some  of  us  boys  heard  that  there  were  a  good  many  cattle 
caught  out  on  the  range,  west  of  Jordan,  and  were  dead  or  dy- 
ing and  that  boys  could  make  something  by  going  over  there 
and  getting  the  hides  off  the  dead  ones.  Three  of  us  got  our 
sleds  and  ropes  ready  and  when  the  snow  had  settled  and  crust- 
ed so  it  would  bear  our  weight  we  started  on  our  exploring  trip. 

When  about  four  miles  northwest  of  the  Jordan  bridge  we 
found  a  bunch  of  ten  or  twelve  cattle,  every  one  dead,  and  lay- 
ing close  together.  By  helping  each  other  we  were  able  to  start 
for  home  about  3  or  4  o'clock  p.  m.,  each  with  a  hide  on  his 
sled.  We  repeated  this  the  next  day,  but  the  next  a  thaw  wind 
called  a  halt  as  far  as  boy  sleds  were  concerned.  We  sold  the 
hides  for  $3  apiece,  which  we  considered  millionaire  wages. 

^Freezing  And  Starving. — In  the  winter  of  1857,  probably 
just  before  the  snowstorm  mentioned  in  the  preceding  para- 
graphs, Father  went  east  after  some  cattle  that  he  had  heard 
were  for  sale.  His  business  was  buying  cattle  in  winter  to 
drive  to  California  for  Beef,  in  summer.  He  had  a  man  with 
him  and  when  in  the  mountains  this  heavy  storm  caught  them 
and  they  got  lost. 

While  endeavoring  to  save  his  companion  from  freezing 
by  rubbing  his  feet,  his  own  froze.  He  lost  one  of  his  little 
toes  entirely,  and  I  have  cut  the  calloused  parts  from  his  heels 


156 PIONEERING     THE      W  E  S  T     

and  toes  many  a  time  afterward.  They  were  three  days  with 
but  a  pinch  of  cracker  crumbs  and  after  that  ten  days  without 
anything  to  eat.  His  companion  often  said  he  would  lie  down 
and  die,  but  Father  would  coax  him  and  say  1  will  try  and 
save  my  life,  and  would  go  ahead  and  set  down  in  a  hollow 
and  his  companion  would  finally  come  along. 

When  they  got  in  sight  of  Fort  Bridger  the  snow  was 
crusted  and  their  clothing  and  shoes  were  cut  to  pieces  break- 
ing the  crust  and  they  would  leave  blood  in  their  tracks,  but 
they  tore  up  their  blankets  and  wrapped  their  feet  and  legs 
as  best  they  could.  They  finally  arrived  at  Fort  Bridger  and 
were  used  up  for  many  days.  The  skin  of  the  calf  of  their 
legs  could  be  wrapped  around  the  bone. 

*Federal  Army. — Father  had  scarcely  recovered  from  the 
exposures  of  freezing  and  starving  wThen  the  Federal  Army 
was  sent  to  wipe  out  the  '"' Mormons"  and  as  he  was  an  active 
militia  man  with  title  of  major  he  was  much  concerned  in  the 
activities  that  brought  about  a  settlement  in  this  affair. 

In  May,  1858,  Father  was  sent  with  a  company  to  escort 
Colonel  Kane  to  Florence,  having  the  following  recommenda- 
tion, which  was  signed  by  Governor  Cummings: 


Facsimile    of    Recommend    from     Governor     Gumming. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 157 

From   California   Father   obtained     ammunition     for     the 
Nauvoo  Legion,  as  is  shown  by  the  following  receipt: 


Facsimile   of   Receipt   for  Ammunition   for   Nauvoo    Legion. 

We  do  not  have  any  farther  details  of  his  personal  activ- 
ities in  the  matter  and  do  not  wish  to  take  up  space  in  re- 
hearsing what  has  many  times  been  said  respecting  it. 

*The  Move. — While  Father  was  east  escorting  Colonel 
Kane,  the  family  moved  south  with  the  rest  of  the  Saints,  all 
of  whom  abandoned  their  homes,  while  the  army  the  United 
States  had  sent  here  to  clean  them  out,  was  passing  through 
Salt  Lake  City,  the  preparation  being  made  to  destroy  every 
home,  if  the  army  attempted  to  take  possession.  The  family 
went  to  Provo,  but  soon  returned  as  far  as  Mullener's  Mill, 
where  the  Lehi  Sugar  Factory  now  stands,  and  lived  in  a  dug- 
out. Mullener's  Mill  dam  broke  away  three  times  while  we 
were  there.  After  the  Federal  Army  had  passed  on  to  Fort 
Crittenden  in  Cedar  Valley  we  returned  to  our  home  in  Salt 
Lake  City. 

Immigration  Fund. — Father  at  one  time  gave  W.  H.  Sher- 
man $100  gold  coin  to  help  poor  English  converts  to  emigrate 
to  Utah,  and  to  assist  as  many  as  possible.  Sherman  went  on 
his  mission  to  England  and  on  his  arrival  there  commenced 
sending  back  notes  for  the  various  amounts  loaned  to  the  dif- 
ferent people  that  did  not  have  quite  enough  money  to  pay 
their  fare,  each  giving  their  note  for  the  amount  received,  with 
the  promise  to  pav  Father  out  of  the  first  money  earned  after 
their  arrival  in  Utah. 


158 


P  I  ()  N  K  E  R  I  N  G      THE      WEST 


About  four  years  after  the  date  of  the  last  note,  Father 
gave  them  to  me  to  figure  up  the  amount  of  the  thirty  notes, 
to  see  how  close  to  the  $100  the  total  would  come,  as  he  said  it 
would  cost  something  to  change  the  money  to  .English.  We 
found  that  the  notes  amounted  to  exactly  $100.  We  could  not 
figure  out  how  it  had  been  done  without  the  cost  of  exchange 
had  been  divided  to  each  note  as  interest  in  advance. 

Father  had  intended  the  money  to  act  on  the  perpetual 
plan,  by  sending  it  back  to  help  more,  as  soon  as  paid. 
Father  said  he  might  be  able  to  collect  the  most  of  it  by 
calling  on  each  person  owing  him,  but  said  probably  they 


Deseret  News  and  Tithing  Office  Corner  in  1800,  Where  Hotel  Utah  Now  Stand 

needed  the  money,  and  so  told  me  to  take  these  notes  and 
burn  them,  which  I  did,  but  it  destroyed  his  perpetual  as- 
sistance plan. 

*Before  Mother  died  a  note  for  $50,  which  had  been  given 
for  the  same  purpose,  was  found  and  it  was  given  to  John 
Morgan  for  a  life  scholarship  in  his  college,  which  he  used  to 
]i;iy  a  painter  that  had  beon  immigrated  by  it. 

A  short  time  ago  a  man,  who  said  he  had  been  secretary 
of  a  theatrical  organization,  said  he  remembered  counting  the 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


159 


door  receipts  and  found  a  $10  gold  piece  among  the  silver 
coins  and  asked  the  doorkeeper  how  he  got  that,  who  said  it 
was  given  by  Howard  Egan  for  his  entrance  fee  and  to  help 
them. 

In  18(i2  he  was  made  a  deputy  clerk  of  the  United  States 
Third  Judicial  District  Court  in  and  for  Utah  Territory,  as  at- 
tested by  the  following  certificate: 


Facsimile    of    Apiioiuti 


ent    as    Deputy    Clerk    of    the    U.    S. 
Judicial     Court. 


Many  things  of  interest  could  be  placed  here,  but  our  space 
is  too  limited  and  we  are  more  concerned  with  the  Pioneering 
features.  If  we  had  all  of  Father's  papers  that  were  kept  dur- 
ing Mother's  lifetime  we  would  need  several  volumes  to  eon- 
tain  them,  to  say  nothing  of  the  many  thrilling  incidents  of 
his  life  that  now  cannot  be  told. 


160  PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


SEC.  Ill— STORIES  OF  EAELY  SALT  LAKE. 
22— THE  COLD  SWIM. 

When  I  was  a  boy  I  thought  if  any  one  started  for  a  cer- 
tain place  and  backed  out  it  showed  that  they  were  cowards, 
and  this  opinion  has  caused  me  at  different  times  some  hard- 
ships and  discomfort.  So  if  any  one  makes  up  his  mind 
to  do  something  or  go  somewhere  and  it  is  not  really  neces- 
sary, don't  act  bull-headed  and  face  all  kinds  of  trouble  just 
to  say  you  didn't  back  out,  for  in  after  years,  when  some 
ailment  gets  a  good  hold  of  you,  think  what  a  fool  you  were, 
though  you  didn't  at  the  time,  know  that  it  would  get  it  back 
on  you  with  ten-fold  the  suffering  you  first  experienced. 

I  could  mention  a  good  many  times  that  I  should  have 
backed  out,  but  will  tell  you  of  but  one  at  this  time.  A  num- 
ber of  the  boys  that  used  to  go  hunting  down  Jordan  river 
said  they  never  killed  anything  but  they  got  it.  This,  because 
sometimes  a  duck  would  fall  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
Now,  I  had  shot  a  big  mallard  duck.  He  fell  just  on  the  edge 
of  the  opposite  bank.  There  was  another  hunter  with  me, 
who  said,  "Now  I  guess  you  won't  get  that  one,  for  there  is 
mush  ice  floating  down  the  river  and  its  three  miles  to  the 
bridge,  and  before  you  could  go  around  some  coyote  would 
get  it."  "I'll  see  about  that."  So,  taking  off  all 'my  clothes 
I  rolled  them  in  a  snug  little  bundle  with  my  gun  in  the  middle 
and  fastened  them  on  my  head  with  my  belt  over  the  top  and 
under  my  chin.  The  other  hunter  said,  "I  wouldn't  go  after' 
that  duck  for  half  a  dozen  like  him.  He  is  not  worth  it." 
"I  know  that,"  I  said,  "but  I  always  make  it  my  business  to 
get  what  I  kill."  I  waded  in  as  far  as  I  could  and  had  only 
about  one  rod  to  swim,  but  that  was  through  the  mush  ice 
and  was  quite  a  plenty  for  me.  The  air  was  warmer  than  the 
water.  I  was  soon  dressed  again  and,  picking  up  the  duck, 
said  good-bye  to  the  hunter  that  had  watched  the  whole  pro- 
ceeding. 

I  started  up  the  river  for  the  bridge,  not  feeling  any  the 
worse  for  my  bath,  but  in  fact  somewhat  refreshed,  but  let  me 
say  right  here,  I  -would  not  advise  any  one  to  take  that  kind 
of  health  treatment.  I  was  a  little  lucky  that  day,  for  before  I 
reached  the  bridge  a  flock  of  geese  flew  over  me  and  I  brought 
down  a  nice  big  fellow  and  he  didn't  fall  the  other  side  of  the 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 161 

river,  and  when  I  reached  the  bridge  I  got  a  chance  to  ride 
most  of  the  way  home,  besides  selling  the  duck  to  the  man 
that  drove  the  team  for  50  cents,  that  being  the  amount  we 
usually  got  for  a  large  duck. 


23.— SETTING  A  GUN  FOR  BEAR. 

There  was  a  man  by  the  name  of  Cragan  that  had  lived 
a  couple  of  blocks  south  of  my  home,  who  had  been  killed  in 
north  Mill  Creek  canyon  while  going  after  firewood.  He  was 
riding  on  the  front  hounds  of  his  wagon  when  the  king  bolt 
broke  and  the  front  axeltree  rolled  over  and  pinned  him  down 
under  the  heels  of  his  horses.  They  were  frightened  and  ran 
away,  kicking  the  man  to  death  and  making  a  complete  wreck 
of  the  front  part  of  the  wagon  and  the  harness,  besides  nearly 
killing  themselves. 

The  man  had  another  team  of  oxen  and  a  strong  heavy 
wagon  that  the  widow  used  to  let  out  to  haul  wood  on  shares, 
so  getting  her  fuel  for  winter.  I  got  the  team  to  haul  a  few 
loads  one  summer,  from  what  was  called  Coons  Canyon, 
eighteen  miles  west  of  Salt  Lake  City.  It  took  two  days  to 
make  the  round  trip  and  hard  work  and  late  hours.  At  that 
time  of  the  year  the  team  had  to  be  turned  out  to  feed  on 
the  grass,  as  no  feed  of  any  kind  was  carried  for  them.  One 
day  there  was  twelve  or  fifteen  boys  in  the  canyon  cabin, 
mostly  for  the  purpose  of  getting  wood.  A  few  had  come  to 
hunt  bear  for,  as  some  of  them  said,  the  canyon  seemed  to 
be  full  of  them. 

That  morning  a  boy  had  seen  one  not  far  up  the  left  hand 
fork,  going  up.  He  had  been  down  to  the  spring  to  drink  and 
his  tracks  were  very  plain  in  the  dusty  road,  and  it  was  said 
by  some  of  the  boys  that,  every  day  they  would  drag  their 
load  of  maple  down  that  road,  the  next  morning  there  was  the 
bear  tracks  where  he  had  come  down  to  the  spring  and  back. 
So  that  evening  the  whole  lot  agreed  to  go  after  Mr.  Bear  and 
the  boy  that  shot  him  was  to  be  given  ten  rounds  of  ammuni- 
tion by  each  of  the  other  boys. 

I  and  my  chum,  and  bedfellow,  talked  up  a  scheme  that 
we   thought   might   earn   us   the   ammunition   promised,    if   we 
eould   carry   it  through.     This  is  what  we  did.     Slipping   out 
iinobserved  we  took  a  chunk  of  bacon  of  about  two  pounds,  a 
long  twine  fish  line,  a  hatchet  and  our  guns,  and  went  up  to 
the  spring.     The  moon  was  shining  brightly  and  we  could  see 
no  bear  tracks  in  the  road,  and  knew  that  bruin  had  not  yet 
come  for  his  drink,  so  we  looked   around  for  a  place  to  suit 
us  for  what  we  wanted  to  do. 


162 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

We  soon  decided  that  a  good  sized  tree  close  to  the  road 
and  about  two  rods  above  the  spring  would  answer  our  pur- 
pose, so  we  placed  iny  gun  up  in  this  tree,  muzzle  pointed 
down,  tied  it  firmly,  then  one  end  of  the  twine  to  the  trigger, 
then  passed  the  other  end  up  and  over  a  limb  and  then  down  to 
the  ground,  where  we  drove  a  hooked  stake  in  the  ground  and 
passed  the  string  under  the  hook,  tied  the  string  around  the 
bacon  so  it  would  lay  just  outside  of  the  wheel  track  and 
about  one  foot  outside  of  where  the  bullet  would  strike,  if  we 
had  made  correct  calculations. 

When  this  was  done  we  went  back  to  camp  and  bed.  We 
Tiad  not  been  missed  nor  had  we  been  long  at  the  job.  The 
next  morning,  we  were  the  first  to  get  up,  and  went  up  to  the 
spring  and  found  that  Mr.  Bear  had  been  there  and  pulled  at 
the  bacon  and  fired  the  gun.  This  we  could  see  at  the  first 
glance,  as  the  bear  had  wallowed  in  the  road  and  left  a  good 
deal  of  his  blood  there  and  all  along  the  road  as  he  went  back 
up  the  canyon. 

We  took  the  gun  down,  pulled  up  the  stake  and  moved  all 
signs  of  a  trap,  which  was  not  many.  Then  loaded  the  gun 
and  fired  it  off,  loaded  again  and  followed  the  bloody  trail  to 
where  the  bear  had  left  the  road  and  taken  to  the  thick 
brush.  We  now  supposed  he  had  been  stunned  by  the  bullet, 
but  by  now  might  be  able  to  put  up  a  good  fight,  as  we  thought 
he  must  be  a  grizzly,  as  that  was  the  kind  that  had  been  seen 
there,  but  he  must  be  getting  weak  losing  so  much  blood. 

We  concluded  to  return  to  camp  for  breakfast,  and  to  re- 
port that  we  had  shot  and  wounded  a  large  bear,  and  he  hrd 
gone  into  a  thick  brush,  where  it  was  hard  to  trail  him  and 
thought  we  would  give  him  time  to  bleed  to  death.  The  other 
boys  done  considerable  grumbling,  and  said  if  we  had  not  been 
in  such  a  hurry,  and  waited  till  they  were  all  to.gether  they 
could  have  filled  him  so  full  of  lead  that  he  could  not  pack 
it  away,  and  now,  it  was  chance  if  we  ever  found  him,  even 
if  he  was  dead. 

Well,  we  all  went  on  the  hunt,  but  the  thorn  brush  was  so 
thick  that  it  was  very  slow  work  to  find  the  trail  and  follow 
it.  In  some  places  we  found  where  the  bear  had  rolled  around 
quite  a  space,  then  it  would  take  a  long  time  to  find  \vhat 
direction  he  had  gone.  This  went  on  till  after  noon,  when 
we  went  to  camp  for  dinner  and  found  there  was  only  enough 
provisions  left  to  last  two  meals.  There  we  were,  up  against 
it,  only  about  half  a  load  of  wood  ready  and  eighteen  or  twen- 
ty miles  from  home. 

Well,  after  holding  council  as  to  what  we  should  do,  we 
decided  to  get  our  loads  and  go  home.  We  did,  but  not  all 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 163 

of  the  boys.  Next  week  I  heard  that  some  one  found  the  bear 
dead  and  a  hole  down  through  his  neck.  They  said  he  must 
have  been  shot  while  standing  up  with  his  back  to  us.  We 
let  them  guess. 


24.— THE  HORNETS. 

In  1847,  after  the  Pioneers  reached  the  valley  and  began 
their  fort  building  operations,  Father  was  one  of  those  that 
hauled  house  logs  from  Red  Butte  canyon.  On  one  of  his. 
trips,  going  up  the  canyon,  he  saw  a  little  up  the  road,  what 
appeared  to  be  a  good  tree,  large  enough  to  cut  for  saw  logs 
for  timber,  and  as  the  other  teams  were  way  back,  he 
thought  he  would  climb  the  steep  sidehill  and  take  a  near  view 
of  it.  When  he  reached  it  he  sounded  it  with  the  back  of  his- 
axe.  Immediately  there  arose  a  buzzing  sound.  He  had  stirred 
up  a  nest  of  hornets. 

Making  a  rapid  retreat  down  the  hill,  followed  the  biggest 
part  of  the  way  by  a  string  of  hornets,  that  were  trying  to  get 
a  line  on  him,  he  made  his  escape  without  getting  hit.  He 
determined  to  say  nothing  tp  anyone  about  it.  Some  few- 
days  after,  while  going  up  the  canyon,  the  man  driving  the 
lead  team  turned  out  of  the  road  just  below  this  tree.  Father 
asked  him  what  he  was  going  to  do.  He  said.  "Get  that  tree, 
its  dead  easy.  It  will  roll  right  down  to  the  road."  Father 
said,  "You  had  better  not,  but  wait  a  few  days  till  I  get  out 
what  I  have  chopped,  and  then  I  will  help  you.  That  tree  will 
make  two  good  loads."  "No,"  he  said,  "I  can  get  it  alone," 
and  started  up  the  hill  with  his  axe. 

Father  and  the  other  teamsters,  driving  a  little  further 
up,  stopped  where  they  could  see  the  fun.  The  man  reached 
the  tree,  took  off  his  coat  and  swung  his  axe  into 'the  tree.  He 
had  not  chopped  out  many  chips  when  he  was  seen  to  jump 
to  one  side  and  grab  his  coat,  and  fairly  fly  down  to  the  road. 
He  was  more  like  a  large  rock  sliding  and  turning  end  over 
end  till  he  reached  his  team,  which  he  put  on  the  run  up  the 
canyon  till  he  thought  he  was  safe  from  a  further  attack. 

When  he  came  up  to  where  Father  was  he  said,  "Darn 
you,  Egan.  why  didn't  you  tell  me  there  was  hornets  near  that 
tree  ? "  "  You  never  asked  me.  and  I  told  you  I  would  help 
you  get  it  and  so  I  will."  "No.  you  won't  the  road  is  as  close 
as  I  want  to  s:et  to  that  tree.  I  have  three  prettv  severe  bay- 
onet stabs  that  will  take  a  week  to  heal  Besides.  I  am  not  per- 
fectlv  satisfied  as  to  vour  innocence  in  this  affair." 


164 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

A  few  days  later  Father  started  very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing for  the  canyon  and  on  his  way  up  gathered  a  large  armful 
of  dry  grass.  When  opposite  the  hornet  tree  he  carried  the 
grass  up  the  hill  and  placed  it  on  the  hive,  after  plugging  up 
with  grass  the  door  hole.  No  hornets  had  yet  came  out,  as  it 
was  quite  cold  that  early  in  the  morning.  After  placing  the 
straw  to  suit  him,  placing  a  few  dry  limps  on  top  to  make 
A  greater  heat,  he  set  fire  to  the  pile  and  enjoyed  his  revenge, 
while  listening  to  the  buzzing  death  song  of  the  enemy,  which 
could  be  heard  above  the  snapping  of  the  fire. 

It  didn't  take  long  for  the  whole  colony  to  become  good 
hornets,  and  then  Father  attacked  the  tree,  which  made  him 
two  good  loads  of  saw  logs.  One  of  which  he  got  home  early 
in  the  afternoon.  The  man  that  was  stung  by  the  hornets 
said,  "Nice  logs,  how  far  up  did  you  go  after  them?"  "These 
are  a  part  of  the  tree  you  would  not  have."  "What!  the  hor- 
net tree?"  "Yes."  "How  did  you  manage  it?"  "Oh, 
easy!  This  morning  when  it  was  cool  I  was  afraid  the  poor 
things  might  suffer,  so  I  gave  them  a  little  fire  to  warm  up  in. 
I  think  they  were  satisfied,  for  not  one  came  out  to  complain." 
"Well,  by  jinks,  you  had  a  joke  on  the  hornets  as  well  as  on 
me. ' ' 


25.— THE  STAMPEDE  IS  STOPPED. 

(As  told  by  Father,  as  near  as  I  <>an  remember.) 
We  were  camped  at  a  large  horseshoe  bend  of  the  Platt 
River.  The  points  of  the  shoe  being  about  one-half  of  a  mile 
apart.  The  wagons  were  placed  about  half  way  between  the 
points  of  the  shoe  and  the  cattle  and  teams  were  put  inside 
of  the  shoe.  This  arrangement  would  not  call  for  but  fen- 
guards,  as  the  river  was  not  fordable  at  any  place  in  the  bend, 
and  if  the  stock  attempted  to  pass  out  they  could  be  heard  at 
camp.  This  was  thought  to  be  a  very  good  and  safe  plan. 

It  was  a  very  dark  night  and  everything  was  all  right  till 
a  couple  of  hours  before  day,  when  Father  was  awakened  by 
the  rumbling  sound  of  many  animals  running.  He  jumped  out 
of  bed  and  into  his  boots,  buckled  on  his  belt  which  carried 
his  Colts  pistol  and  knife,  grabbed  his  hat  and  left  camp  on 
the  run  to  head  off  the  frightened  animals  before  they  could 
pass  out  of  the  bend.  The  night  had  grown  still  darker,  as  it 
most  always  does  just  before  day.  It  was  so  dark  that  you 
could  not  have  seen  your  hand  a  foot  from  your  face. 

Well,  when  running  at  top  speed  he  ran  up  against  a 
naked  Indian  breast  to  breast.  He  knew  it  was  an  Indian, 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 165 

for  he  felt  his  naked  skin,  but  no  damage  was  done  and  the 
rebound  had  instantly  separated  them.  How  far,  he  did  not 
know.  He  dropped  down  as  low  as  possible,  but  still  on  his 
feet  and  gun  in  right  hand  and  knife  in  left,  listened  for  the 
slightest  rustle  of  the  grass,  not  wanting  to  fire  at  random  for 
fear  of  getting  an  arrow  in  return. 


Representative    IMoiieerfc.    Brigham    Young   and    Brothers. 
Lorenzo,  1S04;  Brigham,  1801;  Phineas,  1709;  Joseph,  1797;  John,  1795. 

After  waiting  some  time  and  hearing  no  sound  from  his 
friend,  he  side-stepped  very  carefully  for  about  a  rod,  and  as 
he  could  hear  the  animals  still  running,  he  placed  his  left  hand 
on  his  breast  holding  his  hunting  knife  point  forward,  made 
a  dash  ahead,  determined  that  if  he  ran  up  against  his  friend 
again  there  would  be  something  doing.  He  ran  this  way  until 
he  saw  the  glistening  waters  of  the  river,  which  he  came  near 
running  into.  He  now  knew  that  he  had  turned  the  animals 
back  in  the  bend,  where  they  could  run  in  a  circle  till  tired 
enough  to  stop. 

He  did  not  return  to  camp  till  after  daylight  and  did 
not  see  any  Indians,  but  plenty  of  their  tracks  in  the  dusty 
road  where  the  train  had  turned  off  to  make  camp.  A  count 


166 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


proved  that  no  animals  had  got  away  and  camp  moved  on. 
But  just  try  and  imagine  the  thoughts  and  feelings  after  the 
contact  with  the  Indian,  not  knowing  of  his  actions,  or  when 
hel  Hvould  hear  the  twang  of  his  bowstring  and  feel  the  point 
of  his  arrow.  No  doubt  but  the  Indian  was  expecting  the 
white  man  to  shoot,  when  he  could  see  by  the  flash  of  the  gun 
where  he  was  and  return  the  fire  with  greater  success  than 
taking  chances.  But  all's  well  that  ends  well. 

The  place  where  this  happened  could  be  located  by  reading 
Father's  journal  giving  a  description  of  the  camps  and  coun- 
try along  the  Platt  River.  This  was  a  few  years  after  the 
Pioneers. 


How    Salt    Lake    Has   Grown. 


26.— TABY  WE-PUP. 

In  the  early  days  of  Grantsville,  in  Tooele  valley,  there 
was  an  Indian  chief  of  a  band  of  Go-Shutes,  whose  country 
was  from  Salt  Lake  valley  on  the  east,  to  Granite  Rock  on 
the  desert  on  the  west,  and  from  Simpson's  Springs  on  the 
south,  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake  on  the  north. 

This  Indian  was  a  great  diplomat,  and  always  claimed  to 
be  a  good  friend  of  the  whites,  who  were  trying  to  establish 
their  homes  in  his  country.  There  were  frequent  raids  on  the 
settlers'  stock,  when  small  bands  of  twenty  or  more  would  be 
stolen  and  driven  off,  supposedly  by  hostile  Indians.  When 
this  happened  a  delegation  of  the  whites  would  visit  Taby's 
camp,  which  could  always  be  found  within  a  few  miles  of 
Grantsville. 

At  the  request  of  the  whites  he  would  atrree  to  send  a 
partv  of  his  own  men  after  the  thieves  and  kill  them,  and 
bring  back  the  stolen  animals,  but  he  must  be  paid  for  the 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 167 

job  by  giving  him  a  beef,  two  or  three  sacks  of  flour,  five  or 
six  blankets,  a  stated  amount  of  sugar,  coffee,  matches,  a  few 
shirts,  and  always  a  stated  amount  of  powder,  lead  and  caps. 

After  the  agreement  was  made,  the  white  men  would  go 
back  home  feeling  sure  that  Taby  would  get  their  stock  back 
and  that  the  thieves  would  be  punished.  They  generally  did 
not  have  to  wait  over  two  weeks  before  a  rumor  would  come 
from  Taby 's  camp,  saying  the  stolen  animals  would  be  brought 
in  the  next  day,  and  sure  they  would,  but  most  always  a  few 
short  of  the  number  stolen. 

Taby  would  come  from  his  camp  for  the  promised  re- 
ward and  at  the  same  time  would  tell  of  the  hard  fight  his 
men  had  had  with  the  thieves,  and  how  many.,  they  had  killed 
and  wounded,  and  how  a  few  of  his  own  men  were  slightly 
wounded,  for  which  he  ought  to  have  more  blankets,  which  of 
course  the  white  men  couldn't  see  that  way,  for  a  bargain  is 
a  bargain.  This  kind  of  business  would  happen  about  every 
six  or  eight  months  and  wind  up  about  the  same  way. 

The  white  men  were  getting  more  numerous  and  their 
herds  needed  more  grazing  land.  So  a  party  of  young  men 
built  a  few  .cabins  in  Skull  Valley  over  the  first  range  of 
mountains  west  of  Grantsville  and  made  it  their  business  to 
herd  the  stock  for  the  settlers.  These  young  men  were  most 
always  in  the  saddle,  watching  their  stock  and  exploring  the 
country  west  of  them,  where  they  found  numerous  signs  of 
where  bands  of  stock  at  some  time  had  been  driven  out  on 
the  desert,  and  some  places  back  again,  where  Taby  had 
brought  them  home. 

Well,  the  time  came  that  the  herd  boys  missed  about  forty 
head  of  horned  stock,  and  four  or  five  of  the  boys  went  in 
search  of  them.  In  circling  around  they  soon  found  the  trail 
leading  west,  and  they  could  find  but  three  pony  tracks,  so 
they  supposed  there  were  only  three  thieves  that  was  doing 
the  stealing. 

Preparing  themselves  with  a  couple  of  canteens  of  water 
each,  four  of  the  boys  determined  to  see  if  it  was  possible  to 
save  the  animals.  They  started  on  the  trail  from  Cedar  Moun- 
tains, which  is  on  the  east  edge  of  the  desert.  A  due  west 
line  from  there,  of  seventy-five  or  eighty  miles,  is  a  patch  of 
ground  of  about  a  quarter  section,  and  a  little  higher  than  the 
level  of  the  desert.  Near  one  end  is  a  small  spring  of  brakish 
water.  The  next  nearest  water  is  twenty  miles  further  \vest. 

The  next  morning  about  daylight  the  boys  were  getting 
quite  close  to  this  first  water  place.  They  could  see  cattle 
scattered  all  over  it,  and  when  they  got  on  the  higher  ground 


168 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 


they  could  also  see  three  Indians  just  starting  from  the  spring 
going  west.  They  gave  them  some  scare,  besides  wounding 
one  of  their  ponies.  The  boys,  after  resting  till  the  next  day, 
afternoon,  made  their  way  back  home  with  all  of  their  ani- 
mals but  one.  That  the  Indians  had  killed  for  grub  when  they 
stopped  at  the  spring. 

This  put  an  end  to  old  Taby's  double-faced  transactions. 
It  was  afterwards  learned  that  he  was  the  father  of  the  whole 
stealing  operations,  but  the  friendly  Deep  Creek  Indians  were 
afraid  of  him,  and  did  not  dare  to  tell  of  his  doings  till  the  old 
man  got  his  last  call. 

Then  it  was  found  out  that  when  he  wanted  a  new 
blanket  or  two  and  some  provisions,  he  would  send  some  of 
his  men  to  steal  and  drive  off  a  band  of  stock,  and  after  a 
bargain  was  made  send  a  rumor  out  and  have  them  brought 
back,  that  is,  what  they  did  not  kill  for  food,  or  the  hides  for 
footwear,  or  to  make  ropes  and  lassos.  There  probably  are 
some  people  now  living  that  may  remember  old  Taby  We-Pup, 
but  that  never  knew  of  his  doings. 


Jebow    and    Squaw. 
Early    Salt    Lake    Character. 


PART  III. 

PIONEERING:  SALT  LAKE  to  CALIFORNIA. 

SEC.   I.— ROUTE   SOUTH   AND   NORTH. 
27.— A   DIARY. 

By  Howard  Egan,   of  His  Trip  in  1849-50,   From  Fort  Utah 

(Provo  City)  to  California,  With  the  Distance,  Water, 

Feed  and  Suitable  Camp  Grounds,  Numbered 

From   1    to    89,    Etc.     Kept   for    a 

Future  Traveling  Guide. 

Sunday,  November  18th,  1849.— We  started  from  Fort 
Utah  in  company  with  Brothers  Granger  and  Hills,  having 
three  wagons  and  fifteen  head  of  animals  and  forty  souls,  for 
California.  It  stormed  for  three  days  previous  to  our  starting, 
which  has  made  the  roads  very  bad.  After  traveling  seven 
and  a  half  miles  we  came  to  a  small  spring  branch,  and  we 
traveled  up  a  little  further  and  camped  at  Hobble  Creek 
(*nowy  Springville) ,  which  is  a  good  camp  ground  with  feed 
and  wood  in  plenty. 

Monday,  19th. — The  morning  was  warm  and  pleasant. 
Brother  Orlando  Hovey  started  in  company  with  us  this 
morning,  having  a  wagon,  four  yoke  of  cattle  and  four  men. 
Our  company  numbered  fourteen  men  and  boyST  We  traveled 
eight  miles  and  came  to  a  creek  about  ten  feet  wide  (*Span- 
ish  Fork),  which  is  a  good  camp  ground,  with  wood  in  plenty. 
We  came  nine  miles  and  camped  at  a  small  spring  branch 
(*near  Salem),  where  the  feed  was  good  and  plenty  of  willows 
for  fuel. 

Tuesday,  20th. — This  morning  we  had  a  severe  storm  of 
rain  and  sleet,  which  made  the  roads  very  bad.  This  afternoon 
the  road  is  much  better.  We  passed  several  good  camp 
grounds.  No.  6  (*Pavson)  is  a  beautiful  stream,  there  being 
two  branches  with  wood  in  plenty.  All  the  streams  and 


170  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

springs  up  to  No.  10  were  good  camps.  We  came  twenty-three 
miles  and  camped  on  No.  10,  where  there  are  plenty  of  wil- 
lows. There  is  a  branch  of  this  creek  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
ahead. 

Wednesday,  21st. — This  morning  Brother  Badger  and 
Brother  Burnett  came  to  our  camp  with  a  letter  from  Salt 
Lake.  We  traveled  twelve  miles  over  a  bad  road  and  came  to 
No.  11,  a  spring  at  the  right  of  the  road,  which  is  a  good 
camp  ground,  with  plenty  of  grass  and  sagebrush  and  plenty 
of  wood  one  mile  away.  We  came  five  miles  to  No.  12,  a 
spring  branch,  and  camped.  The  feed  was  good  and  wood  in 
plenty.  This  is  the  last  camp  in  the  Utah  Valley. 

Thursday,  22nd. — Last  night  it  commenced  snowing  and 
continued  until  this  morning.  Today  we  crossed  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Utah  and  the  Sevier  Valleys.  We  traveled 
twelve  miles  and  camped  at  the  Sevier  River,  No.  13.  The 
river  is  about  four  rods  wide  and'  three  and  one-half  feet  deep, 
with  the  south  bank  steep.  The  feed  was  good,  and  plenty  of 
wood  and  willows  for  camp  use. 

Friday,  23rd. — The  morning  Avas  pleasant  and  we  traveled 
twelve  miles  over  a  beautiful  road  to  camp  14.  where  feed  and 
water  was  plenty.  In  the  dry  season  you  will  have  to  go  two 
miles  east,  where  there  is  a  good  spring.  We  traveled  four- 
teen miles  and  camped  at  No.  15,  a  spring,  with  feed  good  and 
plenty  of  cedar.  The  road  is  good  between  the  Sevier  and 
this  camp,  with  the  exception  of  about  four  miles. 

Saturday,  24th. — The  morning-  was  pleasant,  and  we  trav- 
eled three  miles  and  came  to  No.  16.  a  good  camp,  with  plenty 
of  willows.  We  went  on  two  miles  further  and  came  to  No. 
17,  a  creek,  Avith  plenty  of  wood.  We  traA-eled  ten  miles. and 
came  to  No.  18,  a  spring,  and  good  camp,  with  plenty  of  Avil- 
lows.  We  then  came  six  miles  and  camped  at  No.  19.  a  brack- 
ish spring  and  poor  camp  ground,  with  no  Avood  and  less  sage, 
and  feed  very  short. 

Sunday,  25th. — This  day's  travel  has  been  over  a  crooked, 
rough  and  stony  road.  We  traA'eled  two  miles  and  camped  at 
No.  20,  a  spring  branch,  with  wood  and  feed  in  plenty. 

Monday,  26th. — The  weather  Avas  very  cold.  We  traveled 
six  miles  and  came  to  No.  21.  a  small  creek,  a  good  camp 
ground,  plenty  of  Avood  and  feed.  We  traveled  fourteen  miles 
and  camped  at  No.  22;  plenty  of  Avood  and  feed  short.  We 
are  now  traveling  in  company.  Avith  six  horse  teams  and  twen- 
ty-eight men. 

Tuesday,  27th.— We  traveled  five  miles  and  came  to  a 
small  creek,  No.  23,  a  good  camn  ground,  plentv  of  feed  and 
willows.  We  came  a  quarter  mile  and  crossed  No.  24.  a  good 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 171 

camp  ground;  a  half  Tiiile  further  we  came  to  Beaver  Creek, 
No.  25.  It  commenced  snowing  and  we  camped.  This  stream 
is  about  one  rod  wide ;  wood  and  feed  plenty,  a  beautiful 
camping  place.  Our  company  is  now  organized.  H.  Egan  is 
captain,  and  Brother  Orlando  Hovey  has  joined  our  company. 
Brothers  Granger  and  Egan  take  his  provisions. 

Wednesday,  28th. — Last  night  we  had  a  severe  snowstorm. 
We  traveled  about  seven  miles  down  the  Beaver  and  found  the 
road  was  not  passable.  We  then  traveled  seven  miles  east, 
close  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  we  struck  a  road  that 
bore  south  through  the  mountains.  We  traveled  about  four 
miles  and  found  good  feed  and  plenty  of  wood,  no  water.  We 
traveled  eighteen  miles,  but  were  only  eight  miles  from  where 
we  camped  last  night. 

Thursday,  29th. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  trav- 
eled about  thirteen  miles  and  camped  at  a  spring,  the  feed  be- 
ing good  and  plenty  of  sage.  Ten  miles  of  the  road  today  was 
through  a  rough  mountain  country  and  very  rocky.  Brother 
John  Hills  broke  his  wagon  tire  in  two  places.  Spring  No. 
26,  where  we  are  camped,  is  about  one  mile  from  the  road 
and  about  three  miles  from  where  you  first  enter  the  Little 
Salt  Lake  Valley. 

Friday,  30th. — We  traveled  ten  miles  and  came  to  No.  27, 
a  creek  with  plenty  of  willows  and  feed.  It  is  a  good  camp 
ground.  We  came  six  miles  and  camped  at  No.  28,  a  creek 
about  one  rod  wide,  with  plenty  of  wood  and  feed.  The  road 
has  been  very  good  today.  We  are  in  sight  of  the  Little  Salt 
Lake.  The  weather  is  warm  and  pleasant. 

DECEMBER,  1849. 

Saturday,  1st. — We  traveled  six  and  a  quarter  miles  and 
came  to  creek  No.  29.  It  is  a  good  camp  ground,  with  plenty 
of  wood  and  feed.  We  caught  up  with  Mr.  —  — 's  company 
at  this  creek.  He  laid  up  to  do  some  blacksmithing,  and 
kindly  offered  to  have  our  wagon  tire  welded,  and  any  other 
work  we  wanted. 

Sunday,  2nd.— We  traveled  four  miles  and  came  to  No. 
30,  a  spring  and  good  camp  ground.  Then  we  came  seven 
miles  to  Muddy  creek  No.  31,  a  bad  creek  to  cross;  wood 
plenty,  feed  short.  We  traveled  six  miles  and  came  to  a 
spring  branch,  feed  and  wood  plenty.  We  met  four  men  be- 
longing to  Captain  Smith's  company,  who  had  lost  their  road 
and  had  been  living  on  mule  flesh  for  sixteen  days. 

Monday,  3rd. — We  traveled  sixteen  miles  and  camped  at 
No.  33,  a  spring  branch :  wood  plenty  and  feed  short. 


172  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

Tuesday,  4th. — Last  night  it  commenced  snowing,  and  the 
morning  was  cold  and  stormy.  We  traveled  thirteen  miles  and 
came  to  No.  34,  a  spring  branch,  with  feed  and  willows  plenty. 
We  traveled  nine  miles  and  camped  at  No.  35,  a  spring 
branch :  feed  and  wood  plenty. 

Wednesday,  5th. — This  morning  was  cold  and  stormy.  We 
came  eleven  miles  to  No.  36,  a  spring  branch.  The  feed  was 
short,  but  wood  plenty.  We  came  about  three  miles  and 
camped  in  a  valley.  The  feed  and  wood  was  plenty,  but  no 
water.  The  storm  was  very  severe,  and  the  last  end  of  the 
road  very  bad. 

Ihursday,  6th. — Last  night  we  experienced  the  hardest 
storm  we  have  had  since  wo  started.  We  traveled  about  eight 
miles  over  rough  roads  to  Santa  Clara.  We  came  about  two 
miles  further  and  camped  near  the  Santa  Clara,  where  feed 
was  poor,  but  wood  was  plenty.  It  has  stormed  all  day. 

Friday,  7th. — The  morning  was  very  cold.  .  We  traveled 
three  miles  down  the  Santa  Clara,  where  one  of  my  wagon 
tires  broke.  Brother  Granger  unloaded  his  wagon  and  went 

back  with  me  to  Mr.  's  camp,  about  thirty  miles.  We 

were  gone  three  days,  the  weather  being  very  cold. 

Saturday,  8th. — The  weather  Avas  extremely  cold,  being 
12  degrees  below  zero. 

Sunday,  9th. — This  morning  we  arrived  at  our  camp.  The 
wagons  had  gone  ahead.  The  weather  was  still  cold  and  feed 
very  poor. 

Monday,  10th. — We  traveled  ten  miles  down  the  Santa 
Clara,  the  road  being  very  hard.  We  came  a  mile  and  a  half 
and  camped  at  a  spring,  plenty  of  wood  but  feed  very  poor. 

Tuesday,  llth. — The  morning  was  cold,  but  we  traveled 
about  fifteen  miles  over  a  very  rough  road,  snow  being  about 
one  foot  deep.  We  stopped  two  hours  and  fed.  The  feed  is 
very  good  up  to  the  right  of  the  road  in  a  ravine  from  where 
we  stopped.  We  traveled  fifteen  miles  further  and  camped 
on  the  Kio  Virgin,  plenty  of  wood,  but  feed  very  poor.  There 
is  some  little  bunch  grass  one  mile  up  the  hill. 

Wednesday,  12th. — We  traveled  down  the  Virgin  over  a 
heavy  sandy  road  through  the  most  barren,  desolate  country  I 
have  ever  seen.  We  came  about  eight  miles  and  camped. 
Plentv  of  willow's  and  some  salt  grass.  The  Virgin  is  about 
two  rods  wide  here. 

Thursday,  13th. — The  weather  wa?  warm  and  pleasant. 
We  traveled  about  eighteen  miles  down  the  Virgin.  The  road 
was  sandy  and  we  crossed  the  river  ten  times.  The  fords  were 
good  and  there  was  plenty  of  willows  and  some  little  feed, 
the  first  we  have  seen  since  we  started  this  morning. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 173 

Friday,  14th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  with  some  rain. 
We  traveled  about  twelve  miles  down  the  Virgin  River.  The 
road  was  sandy  and  we  crossed  the  river  four  or  five  times, 
then  turned  short  to  the  right  and  went  over  a  very  heavy 
sandy,  crooked  road.  We  came  about  six  miles  and  found 
some  feed  to  the  left  of  the  road  on  the  side  of  the  mountain. 

Saturday,  15th. — It  was  pleasant  weather.  Brother  J. 
Bill's  team  gave  out  and  he  left  his  wagon  and  put  his  load 
in  different  wagons.  We  traveled  a  half  mile  and  camped  at 
the  foot  of  a  very  steep  mountain  that  we  had  to  cross.  We 
took  out  part  of.  the  loads  and  doubled  teams,  and  with  a  rope 
250  feet  long  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  and  twenty  men  to 
assist  the  teams  we  got  up.  We  came  five  miles  and  bated, 
and  then  came  to  the  Muddy.  The  feed  was  good,  but  wood 
scarce.  Part  of  the  road  was  very  sandy. 

Sunday,  16th. — The  weather  was  pleasant,  and  we  re- 
mained in  camp.  We  saw  a  number  of  Indians  in  the  evening. 

Monday,  17th. — About  noon  today  we  moved  camp  up  the 
creek  about  three  miles  and  came  to  a  river.  It  is  called  fifty- 
five  miles  to  the  next  water  after  we  leave  here.  The  weather 
is  rainy  and  the  roads  are  bad. 

Tuesday,  18th. — It  has  rained  all  night  without  any 
ceasing,  which  makes  the  roads  very  bad.  We  remained  in 
camp  today,  and  it  has  continued  raining  nearly  all  day.  Last 
night  the  guards  fired  at  what  we  supposed  to  be  an  Indian 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek.  It  is  with  difficulty  that  we 
can  get  our  animals  to  feed,  it  is  so  rainy. 

Wednesday,  19th. — It  was  clear,  pleasant  weather,  and  we 
traveled  ten  miles,  finding  some  feed,  we  bated.  For  half  this 
morning  we  had  to  help  the  teams  with  ropes  made  fast  to 
the  wagons.  The  road  then  was  gravel  and  sandy.  We  came 
about  eight  miles,  the  road  being  very  bad.  The  animals  sank 
to  their  knees  every  step.  We  found  some  water  in  holes  and 
some  bunch  grass. 

Thursday,  20th. — We  traveled  ten  miles  and  found  some 
feed  on  the  sand  bluffs.  The  road  was  much  better,  and  we 
came  twenty-five  miles.  The  last  three  or  four  miles  of  the 
road  was  very  bad.  We  arrived  at  the  springs  at  2  in  the 
morning.  Loot  and  Parks  left  their  wagons,  and  Brother 
Granger  left  his  and  took  Foot's  wagon,  it  being  lighter.  The 
feed  is  scarce,  it  being  buried  over  with  sand.  The  wood  also 
is  scarce  and  the  water  is  milk  warm.  There  has  been  five 
animals  and  three  wagons  left  since  we  started. 

Friday,  21st.— This  day  we  remained  in  camp.  Mr.  Noyle 
left  his  wagon  and  packed.  We  left  our  w-agons  and  took  his,, 
it  being  lighter.  The  weather  is  warm  and  pleasant. 


174 PIONEERING      THE      WEST         

Saturday,  22nd. — Today  we  moved  camp  up  the  branch 
about  three  miles,  the  road  being  very  bad  and  steep.  There 
is  plenty  of  feed. 

Sunday,  23rd. — We  traveled  about  eighteen  miles,  part  of 
the  road  being  rough  and  stony,  and  camped  near  a  beautiful 
spring  branch.  There  was  plenty  of  bunch  grass  on  the 
mountain  and  plenty  of  wood.  Two  of  our  company  were  run 
~by  some  Indians,  who  were  behind. 

Monday,  24th. — About  2  o'clock  this  morning  our  animals 
wore  fired  at  by  a  party  of  Indians,  which  caused  them  to 
scatter.  They  ran  off,  but  two  of  our  men  pursued  them  so 
close  they  got  all  but  three  belonging  to  Mr.  Carr,  which  the 
Indians  killed  and  quartered.  One  of  the  three  was  shot  four 
times.  Here  I  left  the  wagons  and  took  Mr.  Carr's.  We  trav- 
eled four  miles  and  came  to  a  spring  branch,  a  poor  camp, 
but  we  went  on  eight  miles  to  a  spring,  where  there  was  plen- 
ty of  feed.  We  then  came  about  twenty- five  miles  over  a 
rough  road  and  camped  at  a  spring,  the  water  being  bad  and 
a  poor  camp  ground. 

Tuesday,  25th. — We  started  at  daylight  this  morning  with 
"the  intention  of  stopping  at  a  spring  five  miles  ahead.  After 
traveling  about  eight  miles  we  stopped  at  last  and  found  that 
the  road  ran  about  five  miles  east  of  the  spring.  Some  of  the 
company  had  started  without  eating  their  breakfast  or  taking 
in  water.  We  came  about  twenty-five  miles  and  camped  at 
a  spring,  where  the  feed  was  nearly  eat  off,  but  the  water  was 
good  and  plenty  of  wood.  We  arrived  here  about  half  past  4 
o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Wednesday,  26th. — We  remained  in  camp  today.  Mr. 
Carr's  horse  that  was  shot  by  the  Indians  was  left  at  this 
place,  he  being  unable  to  travel. 

Thursday,  27th. — The  weather  was  pleasant.  We  found  a 
man  here  with  an  arrow  stuck  in  his  side,  and  saw  fresh  In- 
dian tracks.  One  of  the  guard  saw  an  Indian  in  the  brush 
just  before  daylight  and  fired  at  him.  We  started  at  3  o'clock 
this  afternoon  and  came  ten  miles,  part  of  the  road  being 
sandy,  and  part  of  it  run  over  a  low,  wet  bottom.  We  crossed 
a  small  stream  several  times,  but  the  water  was  not  good.  At 
7.30  we  camped  at  a  spring,  where  the  feed  and  water  was 
good  and  wood  plentiful. 

Friday,  28th. — We  started  at  3  o'clock  and  came  thirteen 
miles  over  a  bad  road  and  camped  at  spring  No.  48,  at  the  left 
of  the  road,  where  the  water  was  brackish,  poor  feed  and 
"brush  for  fire.  We  arrived  in  camp  about  9  o'clock.  It  rained 
about  three  hours  this  evening. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 175 

Saturday,  29th. — We  started  at  8  o'clock,  and  came  twelve 
miles  over  a  sandy  road.  We  stopped  to  rest,  but  there  Avas 
no  feed.  We  came  twelve  miles  more  and  stopped  and  got 
supper.  We  came  twenty-five  miles  and  camped  at  spring 
No.  49.  There  was  no  feed  and  the  water  was  brackish,  the 
latter  part  of  the  road  being  good.  We  arrived  here  at  4 
o'clock  in  the  mornins:.  but  some  of  the  company  did  not  ar- 
rive until  after  daylight.  We  passed  a  number  of  cattle  today 
and  some  wagons  that  were  left. 

Sunday,  30th. — We  remained  in  camp  today.  There  was 
a  little  coarse  bunch  grass  one-half  mile  west  near  the  road. 
We  found  three  wagons  with  nearly  all  their  loading  in.  left 
by  some  of  the  company  ahead. 

Monday.    31st. — We    started    this    afternoon    at    4    o'clock, 
came  ten  miles  and  stopped  to  rest,  the  road  being  sandy  and 
uphill.     We  traveled  all  night  and  arrived  at  the  Mohave  at 
8  o'clock  in  the  mornins:.     We  had  come  forty  miles. 
TUESDAY,  JANUARY  1,  1850. 

Tuesday,  1st. — We  arrived  in  camp  today,  part  of  the 
company  coming  up  about  noon.  There  is  some  pretty  good 
feed  about  a  mile  across  the  river.  There  is  good  water  and 
plenty-  of  wood.  We  have  seen  several  wagons  that  were  left 
and  a  number  of  dead  cattle.  One  of  the  company  found  a 
mule  here  in  pretty  good  order.  Most  of  our  company  are 
short  of  provisions.  We  divided  with  them  all  we  had  to  spare. 

Wednesday,  2nd. — We  started  at  10  o'clock  and  came 
about  fourteen  miles,  crossed  the  'river  and  came  three  miles 
and  camped.  The  first  ten  or  twelve  miles  the  road  was  sandy 
and  ran  a  half  to  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  feed  is  good 
and  plenty  of  wood.  There  was  a  company  camped  here  last 
night.  Their  fires  were  burning  when  we  arrived.  Some  of 
our  packers  remained  in  camp,  among  whom  were  Parke, 
Neagle  and  Fair. 

Thursday,  3rd. — We  started  at  daylight  this  morning  and 
came  about  seven  miles,  where  we  found  Captain  Davis'  com- 
pany, as  they  had  laid  up  for  the  dav.  I  started  for  the  set- 
tlement in  company  with  Mr.  Loot.  We  traveled  about  twelve 
miles  over  a  sandy  road  and  came  to  the  river,  traveled  four 
miles  further  and  stopped  for  the  night.  The  feed  was  good 
and  plenty  of  wood. 

Friday,  4th. — We  started  at  daylight  and  came  about  fif- 
teen miles  and  stopped  to  feed,  then  we  came  twenty-five 
miles  to  Cahoon  Pass.  The  latter  part  of  the  road  was  very 
rough.  We  camped  at  a  spring  where  the  feed  was  all  eaten 
out,  but  there  was  plenty  of  wood.  This  afternoon  it  com- 
menced raining  and  continued  without  any  cessation  all  night. 


176 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

Saturday,  5th. — We  started  this  morning  at  4  o'clock. 
The  water  was  rushing  through  the  pass  about  three  feet  deep. 
It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could  get  along.  Some 
places  the  water  would  roll  our  horses  over.  We  came  fif- 
teen miles  and  found  a  wagon  and  camp  there.  We  stopped 
to  feed,  after  which  we  came  fourteen  miles  and  stopped  at  a 
ranch.  It  rained  nearly  all  day. 

Sunday,  6th. — We  camped  at  William's  Ranch.  Here  I 
found  Brothers  Rich  and  Hunt  and  some  eighteen  or  twenty  of 
the  brethren  all  well.  This  is  a  beautiful  valley.  The  hills 
look  as  green  as  they  would  in  Salt  Lake  Valley  in  May. 

Monday,  7th. — The  weather  was  pleasant  and  the  breth- 
ren were  all  preparing  to  start. 

Tuesday,  8th. — It  is  still  pleasant  weather.  Brother  Rich 
is  procuring  wheat  and  getting  it  ground  for  our  company. 
Brother  Stoddard  came  in  the  evening  and  reported  the  com- 
pany ten  miles  from  here. 

Wednesday,  9th. — The  weather  is  fair.  Our  company  ar- 
rived about  noon,  all  well. 

Thursday,  10th. — The  two  ox  teams  belonging  to  Brother 
Rich's  company  started  this  afternon.  We  spent  this  day  in 
getting  our  grinding  done.  The  distance  to  this  settlement  is 
about  769  miles  from  the  Utah  Lake. 

Friday,  llth. — We  commenced  our  journey  again  today, 
and  came  ten  miles  and  camped  with  the  two  ox  teams  be- 
longing to  Brother  Rich's  company.  The  feed  is  much  better 
here  than  it  is  at  William's  Ranch.  It  commenced  raining  this 
evening.  We  are  camped  near  the  stream,  where  there  is 
plenty  of  wood. 

Saturday,  12th.— We  remained  in  camp  today.  Brothers 
Rich  and  Hunt  came  up  this  evening,  and  we  organized. 
J.  Hunt  was  chosen  captain. 

Sunday,  13th. — We  came  ten  miles  and  camped  near  a 
stream,  where  there  was  feed  and  wood  plenty.  The  forenoon 
was  rainy,  which  made  the  roads  bad,  but  the  afternoon  was 
fair. 

Monday,  14th. — The  weather  was  pleasant  and  we  came 
about  seven  miles  and  stopped  to  feed  at  the  intersection  of 
St.  Gubrith,  which  is  a  most  beautiful  location.  We  found 
plentv  of  oranges  on  the  trees.  The  Mission  has  been  partly 
deserted  since  the  move.  Some  of  the  fields  are  fenced  with 
pricklev  pears  that  are  planted  in  straisrht  rows  and  grow 
from  five  to  twenty-five  feet  high.  We  traveled  three  miles 
and  camped  near  a  small  stream,  but  there  was  no  wood. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


177 


Prickley   Pear    or    Cactus    used    for   fencing;. 

Tuesday,  15th. — We  came  about  four  miles  and  camped 
near  the  stream  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  City  or 
Pueblo  de  Los  Angeles. 

Wednesday,  16th. — Wo  remained  in  camp  today,  and  laid 
in  our  groceries.  Brother  Davis  and  some  two  or  three  others 
arrived  from  the  Tormage  Train,  and  reported  them  in  dis- 
tress, and  they  sent  in  for  assistance. 

Thursday,  17th. — We  came  twelve  miles  and  camped  near 
a  small  stream  and  a  deserte'd  ranch,  where  there  was  good 
feed. 

Friday,  18th. — The  weather  was  pleasant  this  morning, 
and  we  killed  a  heifer.  Brothers  Rich,  Hunt  and  some  others 
are  preparing  to  pack  and  go  ahead  of  the  wagons.  The 
brethren  were  called  together,  who  were  to  remain  with  the 
wagons  and  Howard  Egan  was  elected  captain  by  a  unanimous 
vote  of  the  company.  We  traveled  twelve  miles  and  camped 
near  a  spring,  whore  there  was  plenty  of  feed  and  wrood. 

Saturday,  19th. — We  traveled  about  twelve  miles  today 
and  camped  near  a  spring,  there  being  plenty  of  wood  and 
feed.  The  roads  todav  have  been  rough  and  crooked.  Broth- 


178 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

ers  Rich  and  Hunt  let  me  have  $53.00  this  morning  for  the 
use  of  the  company.  The  weather  is  beautiful  for  this  season 
of  the  year. 

Sunday,  20th,— We  traveled  about  fourteen  miles  and 
camped  near  a  small  stream  in  an  oak  grove,  where  the  feed 
was  good.  The  pack  company  left  us  today  and  went  ahead. 
We  passed  several  small  streams  that  would  answer  for  camp 
grounds.  The  read  was  pretty  gc^d  and  the  weather  was 
pleasant. 

Monday,  21st. — We  traveled  about  twenty-one  miles  and 
camped  under  the  St.  Altave.  There  were  four  or  five  ranches 
in  sight,  but  poor  feed,  though  plenty  wood.  The  head  of  the 
river  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide.  We  came  down  one 
of  the  steepest  mountains  today  that  I  ever  saw  a  wagon  run 
over. 

Tuesday,  22nd. — Last  night  we  had  a  heavy  rain,  but  the 
morning  was  pleasant.  We  traveled  about  six  miles  and 
stopped  to  feed.  We  then  came  about  three  miles  and  camped. 
There  we  inspected  the  Mission  Buenentrance,  near  a  stream 
within  a  quarter  mile  of  the  sea  shore.  There  was  plenty  of 
feed  and  wood.  The  road  has  been  good  today.  Our  camp 
numbered  35  men,  1  woman,  20  horses  and  mules.  20  head  of 
oxen  and  5  wagons. 

Wednesday,  23rd. — It  was  pleasant  weather  and  we  trav- 
eled about  sixteen  miles,  most  of  the  way  down  the  beach.  The 
roads  were  rough.  We  camped  near  a  small  stream  in  a  grove 
where  the  feed  was  good.  This  is  a  beautiful  camping  place. 
About  two  miles  back  there  is  a  creek  and  a  good  camp  ground. 

Thursday,  24th. — Last  night  it  commenced  raining  and 
continued  without  any  cessation  all  day  today,  so  we  remained 
in  camp. 

Friday,  25th.— Tt  rained  all  night  last  night,  and  cleared 
about  0  o'clock  this  morning.  At  12  o'clock  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  The  roads  were  bad  and  \\e  came  about  six 
miles  and  camped  near  a  stream,  where  wood  and  feed  was 
plentv.  We  passed  several  good  camping  places. 

Saturday,  26th. — Tt  was  pleasant  weather  and  we  came 
about  five  miles  and  stopped  to  feed.  One  mile  further  we 
passed  St.  Abantres  and  traded  one  yoke  of  our  cattle  that 
were  broke  down,  paying  $10.00  to  boot.  We  came  six  miles 
and  camped  in  a  grove  near  a  creek,  where  there  was  first  rate 
feed.  The  road  lias  been  very  hard  today. 

Sunday,  27th. — Tt  was  fine  weather  and  we  came  between 
nine  and  ten  miles,  the  road  beinsr  very  bad.  We  crossed 
seven  creeks,  all  of  which  are  good  camp  grounds,  there  being 
plenty  of  wood  and  feed.  Our  camp  ground  this  evening  is  a 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 179 

beautiful  place  on  the  seashore,  and  the  best  place  we  have 
had  since  we  started,  and  a  beautiful  grove  to  camp  in. 

Monday,  28th. — It  was  fine  weather,  and  we  traveled 
about  eleven  miles.  The  road  has  not  been  so  wet  today,  but 
very  hilly.  We  camped  near  a  spring  branch,  where  there  was 
plenty  of  feed  and  wood.  We  are  within  a  half  mile  of  the 
sea. 

Tuesday,  29th. — We  traveled  about  five  miles  and  turned 
up  a  ravine,  the  road  being  very  rough  and  rocky.  It  is  about 
three  miles  to  a  ranch.  We  traveled  about  eight  miles  further 
and  camped  near  a  creek. 

Wednesday,  30th.— Last  evening  we  killed  a  beef.  The  fore 
part  of  the  night  was  rainy.  This  morning  five  head  of  our 
cattle  were  missing.  Most  of  our  camp  have  been  out  hunting 
but  could  not  find  them.  We  got  back  to  the  camp  about  10 
o'clock  and  learned  the  cattle  were  about  four  miles  from  the 
mission. 

FEBRUARY,  1850. 

Friday,  1st. — We  moved  down  across  the  River  St.  Yuness, 
which  is  about  fifty  yards  wide.  The  mission  of  the  same  name 
is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  road  we  passed  in 
the  forenoon  was  very  good.  We  crossed  a  very  steep  moun- 
tain, and  from  there  to  the  ranch  I  rode  with  the  company. 
About  a  mile  past  the  ranch  there  is  plenty  of  good  .wood  and 
water;  feed  not  so  good.  We  traveled  about  eighteen  mileg 
today. 

Saturday,  2nd. — It  was  pleasant  weather.  We  traveled 
about  sixteen  miles  and  came  to  a  river  about  six  rods  wide, 
came  about  two  miles  further  and  camped  near  a  small 
stream,  where  thei-e  was  plenty  of  feed,  but  wood  scarce.  The 
last  two  or  three  miles  of  the  road  was  very  bad. 

Sunday,  3rd. — The  weather  was  pleasant,  and  w'e  came 
about  three  miles  to  a  ranch.  The  road  was  bad  in  many 
places.  We  traveled  twelve  miles  and  camped  in  a  valley  near 
a  spring  branch,  where  there  was  plenty  of  wood  and  feed. 

Monday,  4th. — Tt  was  a  dandy  morning"  and  we  traveled 
about  one  and  a  half  miles  over  a.  very  hard  road  and  came  to 

St.  Luke ,  a  mission  and  a  store.  We  traveled  up  the 

stream  about  six  and  a  half  miles  and  camped.  Most  of  the 
road  ran  through  a  canyon.  This  is  a  beautiful  camping  place. 
The  feed  is  very  good  and  plenty  of  wood.  We  have  traveled 
about  eighteen  miles  today.  All  of  the  company  are  well  ex- 
cept Brother  John  Bills,  who  is  very  sick. 

Tuesday,  5th. — The  weather  is  pleasant.  We  went  about 
two  miles  up  the  canyon  and  crossed  over  the  mountain.  The 


180 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

road  was  pretty  good  and  we  caine  about  four  miles  to  the  old 
mission.  We  have  had  very  good  weather  today  and  have 
traveled  about  twenty  miles.  Two  miles  back  we  crossed  the 
St.  Miguel  River,  which  is  about  fifty  reds  wide.  At  a  ranch 
and  store  we  purchased  two  beeves  and  paid  $25.00  for  them. 

Wednesday,  6th. — Last  night  we  camped  under  a  white 
oak  tree  that  measured  twenty-two  feet  in  circumference  and 
the  boughs  measured  495  feet  in  circumference.  The  weather 
was  fine  and  we  traveled  four  and  a  half  miles  and  came  to 
the  St.  Miguel  Mission,  which  is  deserted.  We  came  eight 
miles  further  to  a  large  river  about  one  hundred  yards  wide, 
which  we  crossed  and  camped,  there  being  plenty  of  feed  and 
wood. 

Thursday,  7th. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  we  came 
four  miles  to  a  river  about  fifty  yards  wide,  traveled  up  the 
river  about  eight  miles  and  camped  at  a  deserted  ranch.  We 
crossed  the  river  and  traveled  four  miles  further  up  the  river, 
seven  miles  to  a  ranch.  Las  Hoetis,  and  camped,  making  twen- 
ty-three miles  today.  The  feed  is  very  short  here,  but  plenty 
of  wood.  We  have  been  traveling  through  a  very  poor  coun- 
try today.  Two  deer  have  been  killed. 

Friday,  8th. — Tt  was  fine  weather  and  we  came  about 
eight  miles  and  crossed  the  mountain  and  traveled  down  a 
beautiful  valley.  There  was  plenty  of  grass,  but  no  water. 
We  came  ten  miles  to  a  deserted  ranch,  one  mile  further  we 
came  to  the  river  Monterey  and  camped.  We  traveled  about 
nineteen  miles  today,  and  the  roads  were  first  rate,  with  feed 
and  water  in  plenty. 

Saturday,  9th.— We  came  three  miles  to  an  Indian  ranch, 
and  nine  miles  further  to  a  large  river;  eight  miles  to  the  Mis- 
sion Soladen.  Six  miles  from  there  we  crossed  the  River  Mon-. 
terey.  By  raising  our  wagon  boxes  we  got  over  without  any 
difficulty.  We  traveled  about  twenty-one  miles  today,  the 
roads  being  good,  and  there  was  plenty  of  wood  and  feed 
tonight. 

Sunday,  10th. — The  weather  was  fine,  and  we  traveled  a 
half  mile  and  came  to  a  ranch.  The  road  leaves  the  river  and 
runs  parallel  with  it  from  three  to  five  miles  to  a  ranch  to 
the  left.  Saw  several  ducks  along  the  river.  We  came  about 
twenty  miles  and  camped  in  a  grove,  where  there  wa  .  plenty 
of  feed,  but  water  scarce. 

Monday,  llth. — We  traveled  three  miles  and  came  to  a 
ranch,  then  came  fourteen  miles  over  a  very  rough  road,  and 
from  there  on  to  San  Juan  Mission.  We  then  came  one  mile 
further  and  camped. 

Tuesday,  12th.— Last  evening  I  received  a  letter  that  Broth- 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 181 

er  Rich  left  at  the  mission,  dated  the  10th,  one  day  ahead  of 
us.  Brothers  Staden,  Edward  and  myself  started  about  10 
o'clock  at  night  and  found  Brother  Rich  and  company  one  mile 
from  San  Jose,  about  8  o'clock  this  morning.  The  distance 
being1  forty-five  miles.  We  made  arrangements  to  get  provi- 
sions. 

Wednesday,  13th.— We  sent  Franklin  Edwards  back  to 
meet  the  company  and  stop  the  ox  teams  and  send  the  other 
teams  up  after  the  provisions.  Brothers  Rich,  Pratt,  Hunt  and 
Rollane  started  for  San  Francisco. 

Thursday,  14th. — About  noon  the  horse  teams  arrived, 
loaded  up  and  started  out  a  mile  and  camped. 

Friday,  15th. — It  was  fine  weather,  and  we  traveled  sev- 
enteen miles  and  came  to  the  company.  The  brethren  killed  a 
heifer  and  several  deer. 

Saturday,  16th. — We  started  back  about  fourteen  miles  ou 
the  road;  where  we  came  to  Gillar's  ranch.  We  then  turned  to 
the  right  and  came  four  miles  on  the  road  to  the  Marapars 
diggins.  part  of  the  road  being  very  wet. 

Sunday,  17th. — We  came  six  miles  to  Patgher's  ranch.  I 
rode  ahead.  We  traveled  ten  miles  up  the  Patgher's  Pass  and 
camped  in  a  beautiful  valley. 

Monday,  18th. — The  morning  \vas  cloudy,  and  we  traveled 
about  two  miles  and  came  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Here 
we  had  to  double  teams  for  about  two  miles.  We  came  about 
ten  miles  and  camped  in  the  Jousain  Valley.  The  roads  have 
been  verv  hilly  and  hard  to  travel.  There  is  plenty  of  feed 
and  wood. 

Tuesday,  19th.— Last  night  we  had  a  light  rain.  This 
morning  Brother  John  Bills  was  much  worse.  The  company 
remained  in  camp  and  about  10  o'clock  this  evening  Brother 
Bills  died.  We  moved  camp  about  five  miles. 

Wednesday,  20th. — We  traveled  twenty  miles  and  came  to 
the  San  Jouaquin  River,  took  our  wagons  apart  and  crossed 
them  in  a  whale  boat,  for  which  we  had  to  pay  $87.50. 

Thursday,  21st. — We  traveled  about  eighteen  miles  up  the 
Mercelda  River  and  camped  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  where  the 
feed  was  good.  The  roads  were  sandy. 

Friday,  22nd. — This  morning  six  of  our  company  went 
ahead  to  explore.  We  traveled  about  wenty  miles  and  crossed 
the  Mercelda  River  and  camped. 

Saturday,  23rd. — We  traveled  about  ten  miles  and  stopped 
to  feed.  Then  sent  four  of  our  companv  out  to  explore.  We 
traveled  about  four  miles  and  camped  near  a  spring  branch. 

Here  this  journal  or  diary  breaks  off  abruptlv,  except 
places  and  distances  are  given,  which  is  of  no  interest  now. 


182 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

*At  this  point  it  may  be  well  to  review  some  of  the  facts 
in  relation  to  the  early  settlement  of  California  wherein  Mor- 
mons had  some  hand.  The  ship  Brooklyn  sailed  from  New 
York  with  235  Saints  aboard  in  February,  1846.  They  stopped 
at  Honolulu  on  the  2(ith  of  June  and  arrived  at  Yerba  Buena 
(now  San  Francisco),  California,  July  29,  and  soon  commenced 
agricultural  work. 

The  Mormon  Battalion,  that  Father  had  returned  from  as 
they  left  Santa  Fe,  reached  Pueblo  de  las  Angles  March  23, 
1847,  where  they  were  ordered  to  erect  a  fort  on  a  hill  nearby. 
They  were  honorably  discharged  July  16.  A  number  of  them 
were  employed  by  Capt.  John  A.  Suiter  to  dig  a  mill  race 
in  September  where  gold  was  discovered  in  January,  1848, 
which  excited  the  whole  country  and  brought  thousands  across 
the  plains. 

Upper  California,  which  included  Utah,  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States  by  Mexico  in  February,  1848.  In  the  middle  of 
June,  1849,  parties  from  the  east  began  to  arrive  in  Salt  Lake 
on  their  way  to  California  gold  mines,  and  the  people  were 
much  enriched  trading  with  them.  Father  and  others  returned 
in  the  fall  of  1850.  Missionaries  were  sent  there  at  different 
times  and  quite  a  number  were  sent  to  make  a  settlement,  which 
was  finallv  abandoned. 


28.— "TECUMSEE." 

I  will  now  try  to  tell  you  how  Father  got  the  Indian, 
named  by  him,  Tecuinsee.  But  first  I  will  say  that  Father  was 
employed  by  some  Salt  Lake  merchants  to  travel  through  the 
settlements  both  north  and  south  in  the  winter  time,  buying  up 
all  the  extra  animals,  cows  and  steers,  that  the  people  would 
sell.  They  Avere  to  keep  these  animals  till  spring  brought  the 
grass  up,  so  he  could  collect  them  as  he  came  alone:  on  his 
start  for  California. 

He  had  been  very  successful  in  buying,  and  when  he  had 
gone  as  far  north  as  Malad  river,  where  he  camped  for  a  few 
days,  he  had  a  bunch  of  about  fifteen  hundred  head  and  a  train 
of  fifteen  wagons,  a  hundred  horses  and  mules,  and  thirty-five 
men.  all  to  be  looked  after  and  taken  care  of  till  they  arrived 
in  California. 

It  used  to  be  Father's  plan,  after  he  had  got  the  camp 
under  way  in  the  morning,  and  when  the  stock  were  well  strung 
out,  he  would  select  a  good  position  and  count  the  whole  bunch, 
and  if  there  were  any  missing  he  would  send  men  out  to  hunt 
them  up  and  bring  them  in,  and  sometimes  they  were  not  suc- 
cessful in  finding  them.  If  the  lost  animals  were  very  few,  it 


PTONEERING      THE      WEST 183 

would  not  pay  to  lay  over  to  hunt  them,  but  if  there  was  a 
bunch  lost,  the  train  would  camp  at  the  first  water  until  the 
stock  was  found  or  accounted  for. 

They  had  traveled  past  Promontory  Point  and  camped 
near  Sage,  or  Indian  creek,  about  sundown.  There  is  a  narrow, 
sharp,  rocky  .ridge  makes  down  from  the  mountains  on  the 
north  of  the  road,  and  the  camp  was  made  just  after  rounding 
this  rocky  point.  Father  had  been,  with  some  others,  back  to 
look  for  missing:  animals,  and  as  they  were  nearing  the  camp 
he  gave  his  horse  to  one  of  the  men  to  lead  to  camp  and  take 
care  of,  as  he  wished  to  take  a  little  foot  exercise. 

He  climbed  the  steep  ridge  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
point  near  the  road,  and  he  knew  that  the  camp  was  close  to 
the  opposite  side  of  where  he  was  climbing  up,  and  when  he 
reached  the  top  would  have  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  When  he  readied  the  top  he  saw  the  camp  as  he  ex- 
pected and  the  stock  spreading  out  to  feed. 

On  looking  down  the  ridge  the  way  he  expected  to  go  to 
camp,  he  saw  what  lie  first  thought  to  be  the  tail  feathers  of 
a  bird,  but  in  looking  a  little  closer  Avith  his  field  glass  he  saw 
that  there  was  an  Indian  under  those  feathers,  Avho  seemed  to 
be  trying  to  keep  out  of  sight  of  anyone  in  the  camp,  and  at 
the  same  time  get  close  enough  to  some  of  the  animals  that 
were  grazing  near  to  stick  an  arrow  in  them  (an  Indian  trick 
to  get  the  carcass  after  the  train  had  moved  on). 

Father  was  directly  above  the  Indian,  and  the  Indian  be- 
tween him  and  the  camp.  Father  lost  no  time  in  getting  within 
a  few  yards  of  the  fellow,  and  just  as  the  Indian  was  preparing 
to  shoot  the  nearest  steer,  Father  gave  a  "Hugh!"  The  Indian 
turned  round  and  faced  a  sixshooter.  dropped  his  arrows  and 
said  "Hugh!  Hugh!"  Father  placed  his  sixshooter  in  his  scab- 
bard and  motioned  the  Indian  to  pick  up  his  arrows;  then  mo- 
tioned him  to  go  down  to  camp,  where  Father  had  him  sit  down 
by  a  campfire  and  placed  a  guard  over  him,  gave  him  a  good 
sxipper,  and  then  blankets  to  sleep  on:  and  made  to  understand 
that  he  must  stay  there  till  sunrise  next  morning  or  the  guard 
would  shoot  him.  The  next  morning  the  Indian  was  given  all 
he  could  eat.  and  some  flour  and  bacon  for  his  squaw  (if  he  had 
one)  and  told  to  go. 

Just  before  12  o'clock  noon,  as  Father  was  counting  the 
animals  as  they  passed  along  by  a  cei'tain  point  of  the  road, 
he  chanced  to  look  around  and  saw  the  Indian  of  the  night  be- 
fore, with  two  others,  standing  near  watching  Father.  Father 
went  on  with  his  count  till  all  the  cattle  had  passed.  After 
summing  up  his  count  he  found  that  there  were  five  or  six  ani- 
mals missing.  He  turned  to  the  Indians  and  held  up  six  fingers, 


184 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


then  pointed  to  the  cattle,  then  motioned  his  hands  over  the 
country;  the  Indians  uttered  a  sigh  and  soon  disappeared. 

Father,  contrary  to  his  usual  practice,  did  not  send  any  men 
to  find  the  lost  animals.     He  made  camp  about  3  or  4  o'clock. 


aw. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST  185 

About  sundown  there  could  be  seen  a  cloud  of  dust  coming 
down  the  road.  It  might  be  a  pack  train,  for  it  was  coming 
pretty  fast.  It  was  only  Father's  Indians  bringing  in  the  lost 
animals,  but  instead  of  only  five  or  six,  they  had  brought  in 
fifteen  head.  Some  of  them  did  not  have  the  company  brand, 
but  were  animals  that  had  been  lost  by  other  trains  or  immi- 
grants. 

The  three  Indians  did  not  leave  again  until  they  had  passed 
over  the  line  of  their  country,  which  was  along  the  Humboldt 
river,  and  Father  placed  no  white  men  to  herd  and  guard  the 
stock,  the  Indians  doing  this  from  sundown  to  sunrise.  Father 
had  killed  three  head  for  beef,  giving  one  to  the  Indians,  and 
there  had  been  two  or  three  poisoned,  and  two  or  three  drowned 
in  the  spring  holes  in  Thousand  Spring  Valley,  and  at  his  last 
count  in  California  he  had  one  animal  more  than  he  left  Malad 
Valley  with.  (So  much  for  being  kind  to  Indians.) 

The  next  year  as  Father  was  making  another  trip  with 
stock  for  the  California  market,  about  the  same  place,  the  In- 
dians came  again  and  did  the  same  as  the  year  before,  leaving 
as  usual,  except  T'ecumsee  (as  Father  called  him).  (That  was 
the  Indian  Father  held  up  on  the  rocky  ridge.)  He  did  not 
leave  when  the  rest  did,  but  kept  as  close  to  Father  as  he  could 
day  and  night. 

In  California  he  had  to  do  a  good  deal  of  traveling,  and 
when  stopping  at  a  hotel  it  was  always  understood  that  Tecum- 
see  slept  on  the  floor  by  his  bedroom  door.  One  night  when 
they  were  thus  fixed,  Father  heard  a  slight  sound  of  someone 
walking  in  the  room.  The  moon  made  it  light  enough  to  see 
farely  well.  He  saw  the  Indian  come  to  the  chair  on  which 
Father  had  placed  his  clothes,  and  proceeded  to  go  through  his 
pockets.  Father  said  nothing  about  it,  and  next  morning  found 
that  the  Indian  had  only  taken  a  few  dimes,  leaving  all  money 
larger  than  that.  After  that  Father  would  only  leave  a  dime 
or  two,  which  were  sure  to  be  gone  in  the  morning. 

As  he  had  never  seen  or  heard  of  the  Indian  buying  any- 
thing, he  wondered  why  lie  would  steal  money  and  not  spend 
it.  So  one  day  Father  went  to  a  store  with  the  Indian  and 
gave  him  to  understand  that  he  Avas  going  to  buy  a  hat  and  a 
shirt  for  him.  After  the  things  were  fitted  on,  Father  in  pay- 
ing for  them  pretended  he  did  not  have  money  enough.  The 
Indian  Avent  down  in  his  own  pockets  and  brought  out  la  rag 
in  which  were  tied  up  two  or  three  dollars  in  dimes.  He  untied 
the  bunch  and  slid  it  along  the  counter  to  Father  to  take  out 
what  was  needed  to  fill  the  bill. 

One  day,  in  Sacramento,  Father  wanted  the  Indian  to  wear 
shoes  while  in  the  city,  so  took  him  to  a  shop  and  got  a  pair 


186 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

fitted  to  him;  then  when  they  came  to  pay  for  them  it  took 
money  from  both  of  them.  An  hour  after  that  they  were  walk-1 
ing  down  the  street,  the  Indian  trailing  behind.  Father  chanced 
to  look  back;  the  Indian  was  there  all  right,  hat  in  hand,  shoes 
slung  across  his  arms,  eating  candy  and  taking  in  all  the  sights 
that  were  to  be  seen  from  the  sidewalk. 

As  a  general  thing  he  tried  to  imitate  Father's  walk  and 
actions,  which  caused  many  a  smile  among  spectators  and  many 
a  hearty  laugh  from  Father 's  acquaintances.  He  could  not  bear 
to  wear  shoes  long  at  a  time,  when  they  were  new,  and  off  they 
would  come,  no  matter  where  he  was ;  the  same  with  his  hat. 

Well,  the  old  fellow  was  at  one  time  the  "war  chief"  of 
the  "To-So-Witch  Band"  of  the  " Sho-Sho-nees  Indians."  He 
came  with  Father  to  Salt  Lake  and  never  went  back  to  his  tribe. 

NOTE.— To  Wm.  M.  Egan:  Probably  you  know  what  be- 
came of  him.  I  don't  remember.  He  was  sometimes  at  Moth- 
er's, and  at  other  times  I  have  seen  him  at  different  mail  sta- 
tions.— H.  R.  Egan. 

*I  remember  him  well.  He  used  to  sleep  in  our  back  kitch- 
en, and  do  chores,  and  was  quite  an  old  man  then,  but  I  do  not 
remember  about  his  death. — W.  M.  Egan. 


Kanosh  Favaut  Chief. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST  187 


SEC.  II.— STORIES  OF  TRAVEL  AND  HAPPENINGS. 
29.— "INDIAN  SNAKE  EATING." 

When  Father  was  returning-  from  one  of  his  trips  to  Cali- 
fornia by  the  southern  route,  my  brother  Erastus  was  in  the 
company,  and  from  some  of  them  I  got  this:  We  were  in  the 
desert  and  had  made  camp  near  a  small  spring.  We  had  noth- 
ing to  make  a  fire  with  but  scrub  greasewood.  We  had  our  fire 
made  and  were  getting  our  supper  about  ready,  when  there  ap- 
peared a  couple  of  the  Desert  Indians,  clad  in  their  Sunday  at- 
tiro.  which  consisted  of  a  grass  string  around  their  loins.  A 
kind  of  fringe  about  eight  or  ten  inches  long  hung  from  the 
string  clear  around  them.  This  was  all  of  their  covering  except 
a  mass  of  coal  black  hair  on  their  heads  about  the  size  of  a 
bushel  basket. 

They  came  up  close  to  the  fire  and  stood  like  posts,  but 
watching  every  move  of  the  whites.  One  of  them  had  a  live 
rattlesnake  which  he  held  by  the  tail,  letting  the  snake  hang 
down  very  close  to  Ins  leg,  but  paying  no  attention  to  the 
squirming  reptile  whatever.  This  put  the  spectators  on  their 
nerves.  They  said  nothing,  but  expected  to  see  the  snake  at 
any  moment  bury  his  fangs  in  the  Indian's  leg.  After  the 
whites  had  removed  their  cooked  supper  from  the  fire,  the  In-1 
dian  that  held  the  snake  kicked,  with  his  bare  feet,  the  embers 
together,  and  then  laid  the  snake  on  the  coals.  It  crawled  off. 
He  picked  it  up  and  put  it  on  again.  This  was  repeated  several 
time?  before  the  snake  died;  and  when  it  was  roasted  enough 
to  satisfy  the  Indian,  he  took  it  off  the  fire  and  pinched  its 
head  off  with  his  fingers  and  threw  it  away:  then  broke  off  a 
section  of  the  body  and  commenced  eating  it  like  a  boy  would 
a  carrot.  The  two  made  short  work  of  the  snake  and  licked 
their  fingers  as  if  they  liked  it,  and  I  suppose  they  did. 

At  another  camp,  while  they  were  cooking  a  meal,  three 
or  four  of  the  same  kind  of  Indians  came  up  and  stood  watch- 
ing the  cooking  arrangements.  Father  told  Erastus  not  to  no- 
tice them  or  they  might  take  too  much  liberty.  When  the  meal 
was  all  ready  and  spread  on  the  blanket,  all  but  the  frying  pan 
of  gravy,  Erastus  was  told  to  get  it  off  the  fire  and  bring  it 
to  the  table.  He  lifted  it  off  the  fire.  The  handle  was  hot  and 
burned  his  fingers,  so  he  laid  it  down  to  get  a  better  hold.  As 
he  did  so  he  looked  at  one  of  the  Indians  and  grinned.  That 


188 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

was  enough.  They  all  jumped  at  once  around  the  pan,  and 
bending  their  forefingers  like  a  fishhook,  dived  into  that  gravy, 
and  as  hot  as  it  was  they  soon  cleaned  it  all  up,  and  the  white 
people  had  no  sop  that  meal  just  on  account  of  the  grin  on  the 
boy's  face. 


30.— THE    SLEEPING  MULE    (FATHER'S). 

On  Father's  quick  trip  to  California,  straight  across  the 
great  American  desert,  his  rule  was  to  stop  but  four  hours  out 
of  every  twenty-four,  which  soon  made  men  and  mules  suffer 
for  the  want  of  sleep  as  well  as  rest. 

One  day,  after  crossing  about  a  thirty-mile  desert,  they 
came  to  the  bench  or  foothills  of  the  next  range  of  mountains, 
that  appeared  to  be  very  dry.  Father  told  his  partner  to  ride 
a  little  ways  off  in  that  direction  and  he  would  go  the  oppo- 
site, and  if  either  found  any  water  to  shoot  his  pistol  off.  that 
the  other  might  come  to  him,  and  if  neither  of  them  found  any 
water  they  must  return  and  climb  the  mountain  and  search  the 
other  side. 

After  going  as  far  as  he  thought  advisable.  Father  took 
the  back  track,  and  when  he  got  to  the  place  where  they  had 
parted,  not  meeting  his  man,  he  followed  his  tracks  as  fast  as 
he  could.  After  going  about  one-half  of  a  mile,  and  just  over 
a  small  ridge,  he  saw  the  man  and  mule  both  standing  up.  The 
man  had  his  hands  on  the  horn  of  the  saddle  as  if  about  to 
mount.  The  mule's  head  was  down  close  to  the  bunch  grass, 
but  both  man  and  beast  were  fast  asleep. 

The  mule  was  the  first  to  awake,  but  merely  raised  his 
head  a  little.  The  man  slept  till  Father  had  dismounted  and 
gave  him  a  shaking  up,  and  asked  him  why  he  had  not  fired 
the  shot  to  let  him  know  that  he  had  found  water.  He  said 
he  was  going  to  ride  back  to  the  top  of  the  little  rid*:*3  and  do 
so,  as  the  shot  could  be  heard  farther,  but  had  lost  himself  just 
as  he  was  about  to  mount.  There  was  plenty  of  water  there, 
so  they  rested  for  four  full  hours. 

At  another  time  on  this  trip  they  were  suffering  very  se- 
verely for  water,  but  fortunately  came  to  a  small  stream  of 
clear  mountain  water.  Father's  partner  jumped  off  his  mule 
and  threw  himself  flat  down  with  his  lips  to  the  water,  suck- 
ing in  huge  mouthfnls.  Father  grabbed  him  by  the  leas  and 
pushed  him  heels  over  head  into  the  creek.  Of  course,  when 
he  scrambled  out,  he  was  ready  to  fight,  but  when  Father  said, 
"Now  you  can  drink  without  killing  yourself,  and  I  hope  you 
have  learned  a  good  lesson  about  drinking  when  thirsty. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 189 

Father  said,  at  one  time  on  his  fast  trip  across  the  coun- 
try, as  he  was  traveling  through  a  narrow,  steep  side  canyon, 
it  appeared  to  him  that  he  was  going  through  the  street  of  a 
very  large  city.  The  buildings  on  each  side  appeared  to  be  of 
many  shapes,  and  some  of  many  stories  high,  and  occasionally 
a  bridge  would  span  the  street,  and  so  low  down  that  he  would 
duck  his  head  to  ride  under  them.  Some  of  the  houses  seemed 
to  be  lighted  up.  He  could  see  the  lights  in  many  windows,' 
but  there  was  no  sound. 

Then  he  knew  that  he  was  suffering  for  the  want  of  sleep. 
That  made  the  transformation.  He  had  often  when  on  the 
desert  seen  the  mirage  take  the  form  of  buildings,  bridges, 
forests  and  lakes  (the  writer  has  seen  the  same  things),  but 
he  knew  this  was  not  a  mirage,  but  lack  of  sleep. 

Father  was  of  the  opinion  that  man  can  go  longer  without 
sleep  than  the  animals  he  rode,  but  he  felt  sure  that  the  ani- 
mals often  slept  while  traveling  slow.  I  don't  know  as  to  that, 
but  I  do  know  that  I  have  ridden  horseback  for  five  or  six 
miles  while  I  was  fast  asleep,  and  only  awakened  by  the  pony 
changing  his  gait. 

This  was  at  the  place  where  the  two  riders  passed  each 
other  and  reported  that  they  had  not  met.  Both  had  been  fast 
asleep  and  the  ponies  had  not  changed  their  pace  in  passing, 
so  the  boys  slept  on  till  they  did,  which  would  be  at  some  in- 
cline or  decline,  as  if  to  receive  further  orders,  which  they  gen- 
erally got  by  a  gentle  touch  of  the  spurs  or  a  lifting  of  the 
bridle  reins. 

Suffering  for  Sleep. — When  Father  arrived  in  Sacramento, 
at  the  end  of  his  ten-day  mule  trip,  his  first  duty  was  to  take 
a  bath  and  then  a  good  sleep,  both  of  which  he  stood  very  much 
in  need  of.  So,  after  engaging  his  room  at  the  hotel,  he  turned 
the  water  on  and  did  not  wait  for  the  tub  to  fill,  but  got  in 
and  sat  down  and  leaned  back  and —  Well,  the  first  lie  knew 
the  bellboy  was  in  the  room  trying  to  wake  him  up.  and  the 
water  still  running  at  full  force.  The  first  thing  the  bellboy 
knew  was  a  battery  of  boots  directed  at  him,  which  caused  his 
hasty  retreat.  But  he  had  broken  the  first  real  comfortable 
sleep  Father  had  enjoyed  for  over  ten  days.  As  there  were 
only  two  of  them  on  the  last  trip,  and  as  they  only  rested  four 
out  of  every  twenty-four  hours,  and  as  both  could  not  sleep  at 
the  same  time,  on  account  of  the  danger  of  being  attacked  by 
man  or  beast,  there  were  only  two  hours  out  of  each  twenty- 
four  for  each  to  sleep.  Too  little  to  be  much  enjoyed,  for  the 
awakening  was  the  hardest  part  of  the  job,  for  sleep  came 
quickly  but  awakening  came  with  a  erudge  and  a  surprise  at 
the  shortness  of  the  length  of  two  hours. 


190 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

31.— A  FEARFUL  FALL. 

In  early  days,  when  Father  was  at  home  for  a  brief  time, 
they  used  to  have  a  sociable  evening  at  home  with  friends,  at 
one  home  or  another.  As  Father  put  in  most  all  his  time  in 
going  or  coming,  or  in  California,  the  good  folks,  especially  the 
women  folks,  were  always  iirging  him  to  tell  them  some  of  his 
thrilling  experiences,  as  they  knew  he  must  have  had  many  of 
them.  So,  on  one  evening  after  much  persuasion,  he  told  this 
to  the  very  attentive  listeners: 

"I  was  selling  beef  to  the  placer  miners  and  had  to  do  a 
great  deal  of  horseback  riding  to  visit  the  different  camps  to 
get  their  orders  for  beef.  On  going  to  one  camp  I  found  the 
trail  so  steep  that  I  thought  I  would  walk  the  balance  of  the 
way,  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile.  So  I  tied  my  horse  close  to 
the  trail  and  footed  it  on  up  to  the  camp.  On  the  way  up  1 
noticed  a  good  many  prospect  holes  that  had  been  abandoned. 
Some  of  them  with  large  dumps  and  some  with  their  windlasses 
still  over  them.  I  remember  of  thinking  how  dangerous  it  was 
to  leave  such  places  uncovered,  as  men  or  animals  that  might 
fall  in  one  of  them,  if  not  killed,  could  not  be  heard  by  anyone, 
and  so  die  of  starvation  or  thirst. 

But  to 'go  on,  I  arrived  in  the  camp  early  in  the  afternoon 
and  was  much  pleased,  as  I  had  made  contracts  for  a  good 
amount  of  beef  for  each  week  for  a  couple  of  months,  which 
meant  ten.  or  twelve  head  of  beef  sold.  Well,  they  were  a  jolly 
crew  of  miners,  and  more  so  on  account  of  their  success.  All 
of  which  meant  money  for  me. 

By  the  time  I  had  made  the  round  of  the  camp  and  fin- 
ished up  my  business  it  was  dark.  Some  of  the  miners  wanted 
me  to  stay  with  them  all  night,  but  I  would  not,  for  I  had  left 
my  horse  tied  so  he  could  not  feed,  and  I  also  thought  I  could 
find  my  way  back  down  the  gulch,  although  it  had  grown  ex- 
tremely dark. 

"I  followed  a  well-beaten  trail  and  was  making  very  good 
time,  when  all  at  once  I  felt  that  I  was  falling.  Throwing  out 
my  hands  I  struck  what  I  supposed  was  a  windlass  frame,  and 
clung  to  it  for  dear  life.  But  the  thing  was  so  rotten  that  it 
broke  almost  in  two,  and  the  least  move  I  made  it  would  crack, 
and  wns  alreadv  pinching  niv  hands.  Now.  it'  von  can  just  im- 
agine the  horrible  thoughts  that  ran  riot  tlirou-h  im  head.  How 
!  shot- Id  lie  iiian»-h'd  at  the  bottom,  or  it'  doad.  how  long  be- 
fore T  would  he  found.  What  would  my  wife  and  friends  say 
as  to  the  cause  of  niv  disappearance.  Great  beads  of  sweat 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 191 

came  out  all  over  me.  All  my  life's  doing:,  good,  bad  and  in- 
different, rushed  through  my  mind  at  lightning  speed,  and  the 
terror  and  agony  of  it  all !  My  strength  was  going  away,  and 
I  knew  that  the  last  moment  had  come,  so  commended  my  soul 
to  the  powers  above,  I  closed  my  eyes  and  let  go  my  hold  and 
dropped  (Oh,  my!  Dreadful!  Horrible!  And  so  on,  from  the 
ladies)  about  six  inches.  Needless  to  say,  after  resting  a  few 
moments  I  soon  found  my  horse  and  rode  home." 

DIARY. 

*To  show  some  of  Father's  activities  selling  beef  in  Cali- 
fornia we  here  insert  some  of  his  Diary  of  1855,  as  follows: 
January  1 — At  the  ranch  on  the  San  Joaquin;  cloudy.  12th — 
Left  the  ranch  with  O.  R.  Stibbins  and  the  Indian.  "  13th— At 
Stockton ;  stopped  at  the  Slough  House.  14th — Stopped  at 
Sacramento.  15th — Stopped  at  Putah.  16th — Started  with 
forty-four  head  of  cattle.  17th — Stopped  at  the  Slough  House; 
commenced  boarding  at  $9  per  week.  20th — Found  an  ox  on 
the  east  side  of  Cosmines  river  branded  L  K.  21st — Mexican 
Joseph  came  from  San  Joaquin.  25th — Sold  ten  head  of  cattle. 
26th — Went  to  Sacramento  and  returned.  28th— J.  H.  Kinkead 
arrived  this  evening.  29th — Mr.  Kinkead  left  this  morning. 
February  2— Sold  five  head  of  cattle  to  Mr.  Tudsbury.  4th — 


First    Salt    Lake    City    Store,    LIvIngBtO*    *     Kinkead; 
after    Livingston    Bell     .v     <  ... 

Mr.  Livingston  paid  us  a  visit.     7th — Sold  fifteen  head  of  cat- 
tle to  Bill  Williams  of  Diamond  Springs,     llth — Received  let- 


192 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

ter  from  home.  12th— C.  Stibbins  started  north.  14th— Sold 
seven  head  of  cattle  to  Mr.  Spensir.  Received  a  package  of 
letters  from  Captain  Hunt,  (*This  was  another  message  from 
the  Mormon  Battalion.)  22nd — Sold  twelve  head  of  cattle. 
Started  for  Sacramento.  23rd— At  Sacramento.  24th— Went 
out  to  Putah  and  got  fifty-one  head  of  cattle.  25th — Arrived 
at  the  Cosmines.  March  1 — Sold  ten  head  of  cattle  to  Mr. 
Crocker.  6th— 'Started  to  Sacramento.  8th— Went  to  Putah 
after  cattle.  Got  fifty-one  head.  9th— Arrived  at  the  Slough 
House.  14th— Sold  twelve  head  of  cattle.  15th— Subscribed 
$5  for  the  Mormon  Herald  to  P.  P.  Pratt.  19th— Sold  fifteen 
head  of  cattle  to  Windall.  20th— Mr.  Charles  Warner  got 
killed.  21st— Went  to  Sacramento;  sent  $2000  to  Livingston 
&  Kinkead.  22nd— Returned  to  the  Slough  House.  29th— Sold 
three  head  of  cattle.  April  1 — Sold  twenty-five  head  of  cattle 
to  Mr.  Tudsbury.  2nd — At  Sacramento:  went  to  Five  Mile 
house  with  a  friend.  3rd — Went  to  Putah  and  got  fifty-two 
head  of  cattle  and  stopped  at  Washington.  4th — Crossed  the 
cattle  and  arrived  at  the  Slough  House.  6th — Started  to  Sac- 
ramento. 9th — E.  C.  Blodgett  brought  fifty  cows  from  the 
San  Joaquin.  10th — Sold  a  cow.  20th — Sold  seven  steers  to 
Zimmerman.  22nd — Sold  four  steers  and  one  cow  to  Donnely 
&  Moffett.  26th— Sold  four  COAVS  and  four  steers  to  Oliver 
Joyet.  May  2 — Went  to  Sacramento  and  sold  thirty-eight  head 
of  cattle  to  Frank  Tudsbury.  4th—  Went  to  Putah  "and  got 
fifty  head  of  cattle.  8th — A  man  by  the  name  of  Bohler  was 
murdered  one  mile  from  Dayton's  ranch.  Sold  two  cows  to  B. 
Hamenell.  14th— A  man  was  executed  at  Dayton's  ranch. 
(*Perhaps  the  murderer  lynched.)  19th — Sold  twenty-five 
head  of  cattle  to  Mines  &  Co.  21st — Sold  twenty-five  steers 
and  seven  cows.  27th— Sold  fifty-seven  head  of  cows  and 
steers  to  Soseen.  28th — Started  to  Auburn  and  crossed  the 
American  river.  Lost  a  COAV  and  calf.  30th — Took  stage  for 
Sacramento.  31st — W'ent  to  Putah  creek  and  drove  thirty-one 
head  of  cows  and  steers  to  Sacramento.  June  5th — Started  W. 
Nash  with  fourteen  head  of  cattle  to  Auburn.  6th — Sold  nine- 
teen head  of  cattle  to  King  &  Co.  of  Grass  Valley.  nth- 
Started  for  Georgetown.  Sold  Frank  Hereford  fifteen  cows. 
18th— Stopper  five  miles  from  Rough  and  Ready.  20th— At 
Jordan  Spring  House.  Sold  to  Mr.  Morgan  fifty-four  head  of 
steers.  28th— Received  of  H.  Mudy  &  Warner  #2500  for  Mr. 
Brown.  30th— E.  C.  Blodgett  arrived  with  the  mules.  July  1— 
Started  the  bovs  for  Salt  Lake. 


«J  For  ccntir.ualion  cl  Eiaiy  »ee  page  196.  which  was  so  placed  to  show  search  of  Mail  Line. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST  193 


SEC.  II.— THE  CENTRAL  ROUTE  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

32.— A    TEN    DAYS'     TRIP    TO    CALIFORNIA  MADE  BY 
HOWARD  EGAN  IN  1855. 

From  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  to  Sacramento,  Cal.,  in  Ten  Days 

on  Mule  Back,  Through  a  Trackless  and  Desert  Country. 

A  Time  Never  Equaled  Before  or  Since  by  Such 

a  Mode  of  Traveling. 

Wednesday,  'September  19,  1855.— We  started  from  Salt 
Lake  City  to  go  to  Sacramento,  Cal..  early  this  morning,  and 
stopped  at  Tooele  to  breakfast.  Then  went  on  and  stopped  in 
Lone  Rock  Valley  about  1  o'clock  p.  m.  We  started  on  again 
at  3  o'clock  and  stopped  at  a  brackish  spring  to  get  supperr 
about  two  hours,  and  then  went  on  again. 

Thursday,  20th. — We  stopped  at  the  eastern  edge  of  the 
desert  about  2  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  started  at  5  o'clock, 
stopping  to  breakfast  at  the  Granite  mountain,  where  there  are 
fine  springs  and  good  feed  for  a  small  company.  We  started 
from  there  at  11  a.  m.  and  crossed  the  desert,  stopping  on  the 
west  side  of  the  desert  at  Willow  Springs  at  7  p.  m.  We  started 
again  and  at  0  o'clock  the  same  evening  we  passed  Peter  Haws 
and  company,  who  were  camped  about  ten  miles  from  the 
spring. 

Friday,  21st. — We  camped  about  4  a.  m.  and  started  on  at 
5  o'clock,  stopping  to  breakfast  at  0  o'clock.  We  started  again 
at  10  a.  m.  and  stopped  to  bate  about  3  p.  m.  for  an  hour,  and 
started  on  again  at  5  o'clock.  Mr.  J.  Redding,  who  accom- 
panied us  as  far  as  Redding 's  Springs,  returned  home. 

Saturday,  22nd. — We  stopped  at  3  o'clock  in  the  morning 
for  two  hours,  and  started  on  again  at  5  o'clock,  traveled  two 
miles  and  stopped  for  breakfast.  The  morning  was  cold  and 
cloudy.  We  started  at  8  a.  m.  and  stopped  to  feed  at  2  p.  m., 
starting  on  at  3  o'clock.  We  saw  a  large  Indian  camp  in  the 
valley.  It  commenced  raining  about  dark.  We  went  up  a  can- 
yon and  camped  for  the  night. 

Sunday,  23rd. — We  started  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  and 
met  the  'Indians  coming  up  the  canyon  on  our  trail.  We  stopped 
in  the  Humboldt  valley  at  2  p.  m.  to  feed  for  an  hour,  and  then 
started  at  3  o'clock  and  traveled  until  4  o'clock  the  next  morn- 
ing without  water. 


194 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

Monday,  24th. — We  started  at  6  a.  m.  and  found  a  spring 
of  water  about  10  o'clock  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  and  stopped 
to  feed.  We  started  again  at  12  o'clock  and  stopped  at  1  p.  m. 
for  an  hour  and  left  at  2  p.  m.,  traveling  all  the  evening. 

Tuesday,  25th.— We  stopped  about  1  hour  and  30  minutes 
to  feed,  and  started  at  3:30  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  26th. — We  camped  at  2  o'clock  this  morning 
and  started  at  6 :30  a.  m.  and  arrived  at  the  Humboldt  river, 
ninety  miles  from  the  sink. 

Thursday,  27th.— We  arrived  at  the  Trading  Post,  at  the 
Sink,  about  11  p.  m.,  and  started  at  2  o'clock  to  cross  the  Big 
Desert,  arriving  at  Rag  Town  at  11:30  p.  m. 

Friday,  28th.— We  started  at  2:30  a.  m.  from  Rag  Town 
and  stopped  at  Gold  Canyon  at  11 :30  a.  m.  We  started  from 
there  at  2  p.  m.  and  arrived  at  Jack  Valley  at  7  o'clock; 
changed  mules  and  started  at  9  o'clock  and  went  on. 

Saturday,  29th.— We  traveled  all  night  and  stopped  at 
Slippery  Ford  to  breakfast.  We  changed  mules  at  Silver  Creek 
and  traveled  all  night,  arriving  at  Placerville  at  5  o'clock  in 
the  morning  and  at  Sacramento  at  6  p.  m.,  making  the  trip  in 
ten  davs. 


33.— *FINDING  THE  EGAN  TRAIL. 
OVERLAND  MAIL  LINE.    NOW  LINCOLN  HIGHWAY. 

Original  Trails. — Many  original  trails  were  blazed  through 
the  western  country  by  early  travelers.  The  trappers,  as  early 
as  1810,  one  year  after  the  birth  of  America's  immortal  Lin- 
coln, in  whose  memory  this  and  subsequent  trails  were  forged 
into  this  ocean-to-ocean  highway,  and  if  we  include  the  pres- 
ent California — (it  was  all  California  at  that  time,  as  far  north 
as  the  north  line  of  that  state  now  and  east  to  the  Rocky 
mountains) — much  earlier  than  that.  Peter  Skeene  was  on  the 
Weber  river,  near  Great  Salt  Lake,  in  1825,  and  W.  M.  Ashley 
on  the  shores  of  Utah  Lake  in  1826.  In  1842  General  John  C. 
Fremont  visited  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  the  trail  to  Oregon 
through  the  South  Pass  and  down  the  Columbia  river  began 
to  be  traveled  yearly.  Mr.  Sutter  went  down  the  coast,  lo- 
cated in  California,  and  then  some  travelers  went  by  way  of 
Fort  Hall,  Idaho,  and  up  the  Humboldt,  through  what  is  now 
Truckee  pass,  through  the  Sierra  Xevada  mountains. 

In  1844  Hastings  followed  the  Indian  trail  through  the 
Rocky  mountains  and  blazed  a  cutoff  trail  south  of  Great  Salt 
Lake,  which  is  the  present  link  of  the  Lincoln  Highway  which 
during  the  last  year  has  caused  the  most  apprehension  of  any 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 195 

point  on  the  route  between  New  York  and  the  Pacific  coast, 
intersecting  the  north  trail  on  the  Humboldt.  Walker,  with 
ten  men.  followed  this  trail  into  Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  the 
Donner  party  in  1846  followed  the  Hastings  cutoff,  most  of 
the  company  perishing1  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  from 
cold  and  hunger  on  account  of  the  impassable  snow.  In  1847 
the  ''Mormon''  pioneers  followed  this  same  trail  to  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  Valley  and  began  to  make  their  home  there.  This 
trail  and  the  Oregon  trail  they  followed  to  South  Pass,  in  Wyo- 
ming is  part  of  the  Lincoln  Highway.  There  still  were  many 
trails  to  be  blazed  throughout  the  intermountain  country. 

Egan  Trail. — Quoting  from  Bancroft's  History  of  Jtah, 
pages  751-2:  ''Between  Utah  and  California  there  were  three 
principal  lines  of  travel — the  northern,  the  central  and  south- 
ern. The  first  skirted  the  northern  edge  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
and  thence  after  crossing  an  intervening  stretch  of  desert,  fol- 
lowed the  valley  of  the  Humboldt  and  Carson  rivers,  being,  in 
fact,  almost  identical  Avith  Fremont's  route  of  1845.  Not- 
withstanding its  length,  it  was  still  preferred  by  travelers,  as 
grass  and  water  were  fairly  plentiful,  with  only  two  small 
tracts  of  desert  land  to  contend  with.  (The  southern  route 
has  been  fully  given  in  Father's  Diary  of  1849-50,  in  preced- 
ing article  No.  27.) 

''The  central  route,  better  known  to  the  settlers  of  Utah 
by  the  name  of  Egan's  Trail,  and  to  California-bound  emi- 
grants as  the  Simpson  route,  though  the  two  were  by  no  means 
coincident,  varied  but  a  few  miles  from  40  degrees  north  lati- 
tude, until  reaching  Hastings  pass  in  the  Humboldt  mountains 
where  it  branched  off  in  a  southwesterly  direction  toward 
Carson  lake  and  river,  and  from  Carson  City  south  to  Genoa. 
The  South  route  was  by  way  of  the  Sevicr,  Santa  Clara,  Vir- 
gin, Las  Vegas,  Indian  rivers  to  San  Bernardino. 

"In  1859  J.  H.  Simpson,  of  the  topographical  engineers, 
received  instructions  from  Gen.  Johnson  to  explore  the  great 
basin,  with  a  view  to  find  a  desert  route  from  Camp  Floyd  to 
Genoa,  in  Carson  valley.  An  account  of  the  expedition  will  be 
found  in  his  'Exploring  Great  Basin.'  For  about  300  miles 
his  route  was  identical  with  Egan's,  except  for  a  few  unim- 
portant deviations,  but  soon  after  reaching  Ruby  Valley  it 
tended  more  toward  the  south.  Egan's  line  was  preferred, 
however,  as  on  the  one  taken  by  Simpson  grass  and  water  were 
scarce." 

"Howard  Egan,  a  Ma.jor  in  the  Nauvoo  Legion  and  a  well- 
known  guide  and  mountaineer,  was  for  some  years  engaged  in 
driving  stock  to  California  in  the  service  of  Livingston  &  Kin- 


196 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

kead  and  afterward  became  a  mail  agent." — Burton's  City  of 
the  Saints,  page  550. 

In  1855  he  was  engaged  in  this  business  and  in  his  diary, 
which  I  now  have  in  nay  possession,  he  writes  the  following 
about  his  searching  out  the  Egan  Trail : 

"July  4th —  Started  in  the  stage  to  Placerville  on  the  way 
to  Salt  Lake;  stopped  at  South  Fork  of  American  river.  July 
5th,  stopped  at  Lake  Valley,  ate  supper  at  Gold  Canyon,  traveled 
all  night  and  stopped  at  Savin's  to  breakfast.  July  6.  crossed 
the  twenty-six-mile  desert,  stopped  near  Rag  Town  and  started 
over  the  forty-mile  desert  at  7:30.  July  7th.  traveled  over  the 
desert.  July  8th,  arrived  at  the  sink  of  the  Humboldt.  Started 
'at  11  a.  in.  and  came  thirty-five  miles  and  stopped  for  supper. 
Started  at  10  p.  m.  and  traveled  all  night.  July  9th.  about 

4  a.  m.,  stopped  to  feed.     Started  at  8  a.  m.  and  arrived  at 
the  trading  post  about  .11  a.  m.     Left  the  Indian  Tecutnsee  at 
this  point.    Camped  at  9  p.  m.     July  10th.  started  about  4  a.  m. 
and  spent  the  day  in  hunting  the  Beckwith  trail.     This  evening 
three   of  the  mules   ran   off.      Spent   the   night   hunting   them. 
July  llth — This  morning  I  found  the  mules  and  started  at  7:30 
a.  m.,  stopped  to  bait  at  4:30  p.  m.     Started  about  8  p.  m.  and 
camped  about  12:30  a.  m.  and  started  at  3  a.  m.     July  12th, 
stopped  to  bait  about  7  a.  m.  and  started  about  9:30  a.  m.    We 
had  the  pleasure  of  having  some  Indians  to  breakfast  with  us. 
Stopped  about  5  p.  m.     July  13th.  started  at  3  this  morning. 
Stopped   to   breakfast   at   5:30   a.   in.   and   camped   at   4   p.   m. 
Started  to  hunt  a  pass  through  the  Humboldt  range  and  got  lost. 
Got  to  camp  next  morning,  July  14th.     Spent  this  day  by  all 
to  find  a  pass  through  the  mountains.     July  loth,  started  at 

5  a.  m.  and  stopped  at  Peter  Haw's  and  took  dinner.     Started 
at  2:30  p.  m.  and  camped  at  8  p.  m.     July  16th,  started  at 
3  a.  m.,  came  fifteen  miles  and  stopped  at  C.  Munvey's  to  bait. 
Started  a  south  course  through  a  pass  in  the  Humboldt  moun- 
tains, traveled  through  a  beautiful  valley  and  stopped  at  3  p.  m. 
Traveled  ten  miles  and  camped.     July  17th,  started  at  4  this 
morning  and,   traveling   a   south   course,   about   7   a.   m.   inter- 
sected Hastings  trail,  bearing  east.    Stopped  .to  feed  at  11  a.  m. 
at   Sulphur  Springs.     John  R.   Addams,   traveling  in  company 
with    horses,    camped    about    8   p.    m. :    no   water.      July    18th, 
started  at  3:30  a.  m.,  bearing  north.     Traveled  about  five  miles 
and  came  to  a  large  slough  and  stopped  to  feed.     Started  at 
8  o'clock  and  stopped  about  4  p.  in.,  where  there  is  a  host  of 
springs  (no  doubt  Thousand  Spring  valley) :  feed  good.    Started 
at   7  p.   m.   and  stopped  on  the   desert   about  12:30  a.   ru. :   no 
grass  nor  water.     July  19th.  started  at  3  o'clock  this  morning, 
traveled  over  a  rough,  barren  country  mid  stopped  at  a  spring 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 197 

on  the  right  of  the  road  about  3  p.  m.  Started  at  6  o'clock 
and  stopped  at  11:30  p.  m.  July  20th,  started  this  morning 
about  4  o'clock  and  stopped  to  feed  about  11  o'clock." 

From  this  on  his  diary  contains  little  or  nothing  until 
after  he  arrived  in  Salt  Lake  City  and  had  made  a  wager  that 
he  could  ride  to  Sacramento  in  ten  days  a  mule-back.  He  then 
gives  an  account  of  the  trip  commencing  September  19th,  1855, 
and  arrived  at  Sacramento  at  6  p.  m.>  September  29th?  making 
the  trip  in  ten  days,  as  given  in  Article  32. 

In  the  back  of  his  diary  for  this  year  (1855)  he  makes 
the  following  memorandum:  "Commencement  of  trail,"  which, 
he  says,  "was  ninety  miles  to  the  right  (or  south)  of  the  sink 
of  Humboldt.  Across  a  valley  twelve  miles — little  water  in 
canyon  over  a  mountain  five  miles ;  little  water  to  the  right  in 
the  creek  across  a  valley  one  mile  from  the  road  at  foot  of 
mountain,  good  grass  and  water.  Thirty  miles  to  summit  of 
mountain.  Ten  miles  to  left,  one  mile  over  small  mountain 
creek.  Fifteen  miles  to  Ruby  Valley.  Twenty  miles  down  to 
valley;  forty  miles  in  same  valley,  creek  fifteen  miles  (perhaps 
Shell  Creek)  on  the  side  of  a  small  mountain  is  a  large  spring. 
Twenty  miles  over  mountain  five  or  six  springs  (Spring  Val- 
ley). Twelve  miles  to  summit  of  a  little  mountain;  twenty-five 
miles  to  Deep  Creek:  thirty  miles  to  desert;  twenty  miles  over 
summit  of  mountain:  forty-five  miles  to  Salt  Spring.  To 
creek  sixteen  miles." 

These  wove  his  notes  in  laying  out  the  trail,  and  he  also 
had  a  map,  but  as  it  is  only  a  rude  drawing,  with  no  names 
of  places,  no  one  but  him  could  make  much  out  of  it.  He  had 
also  a  list  of  figures,  perhaps  distances. 

STATIONS  AND  DISTANCES 
On  the  Egan  Trail  or  Overland  Mail  Line  as  Finally  Selected. 

Names  of  Stations.  Names  of  Stations. 

Miles  Miles 

0  Salt  Lake  City.  12  Black  Hock. 

9  Traveler's  Rest.  11  Fish   Springs. 

11  Rockwell's.  10  Boyd's. 

9  Dug  Out.  1<»  Willow  Springs. 

10  Fort  Crittenden.  15  Canyon  Station. 

10  Pass.  12  Deep  Creek, 

10  Rush  Valley.  8  Prairie  Gate  or  Eight  Mile. 

11  Point  Lookout.                         '    18  Antelope   Springs. 
15  Simpson's   Springs.  13  Spring  Valley. 

8  River  Bed.  12  Schell   Creek. 

10  Dug  Way.  12  Egan  Canyon. 


198  PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


15  Butte. 

15  Fair  View. 

11  Mountain  Springs. 

13  Mountain  Well. 

9  Ruby  Vallev. 

15  Still  Water. 

12  Jacob's  Wells. 

14  Old  River. 

12  Diamond   Springs. 

14  Bisbv's. 

12  Sulphur  Springs. 

11  Nevada. 

13  Robert's  Creek. 

12  Desert  Wells. 

13  Camp  Station. 

13  Dayton. 

15  Dry  Creek. 

13  Carson. 

10  Cape  Horn. 

14  Genoa. 

H  Simpson's   Park. 

11  Friday's. 

15  Reese  River. 

10  Yonk's. 

12  Mount  Airey. 

12  Strawberry. 

14  Castle  Rock. 

12  Webster's! 

12  Edward's  Creek. 

12  Moss. 

11  Cold   Spring. 

12  Sportsman's    Hall. 

10  Middle  Gate. 

12  Placerville. 

Total  658  miles. 

Overland  Mail  Line. — No  doubt  he  was  hunting  this  line 
out  with  the  object  of  a  mail  line,  for  soon  after  he  was  in 
partnership,  or  more  or  less  associated  with  W.  G.  Chorpening 
in  carrying  the  mail.  In  "The  Overland  Stage  to  California," 
•we  read  that  W.  G.  Chorpening.  in  the  50 's  was  proprietor  of 
the  mail  line  from  Sacramento  east  to  the  Utah  capital,  there 
connecting  with  the  route  from  St.  Joseph.  Mo.  In  the  spring 
of  1858  Chorpening  purchased  ten  stage  coaches,  with  all  the 
necessary  supplies  for  the  route,  and  the  vehicles  were  re- 
ceived at  Atchison,  Kansas,  in  August.  1858.  shipped  by  Mis- 
souri river  steamboat."— 'Page  40. 

This  was  not  a  daily  mail  service,  but  was  made  daily  in 
July,  1861,  and  was  succeeded  by  Holladay  Overland  Mail  and 
Express  Co.,  and  later  Wells  Fai'go  and  Co. 


34— *PONY  EXPRESS. 

The  first  "Pony  Express"  from  the  west  arrived  at  Salt 
Lake  City.  April  7th.  1860,  bavins  left  Sacramento.  California, 
on  the  evening  «>f  April  3rd.  1800.  and  on  the  9th  it  arrived 
from  the  east,  having  left  St.  Joseph.  Mo.,  on  the  same  evening 
April  3rd.  1860."  Brother  Howard  writes: 

"Father's  First  Express  Ride. — When  all  was  supposed  to 
be  readv  and  the  time  figured  out  when  the  first  Express  should 
arrive  in  Salt  Lake  City  from  "the  east,  they  thought  that,  on 
account  of  the  level  country  to  run  over,  that  they  would  be 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


199 


able  to  make  better  time  on  the  eastern  division  than  on  the 
western  from  Salt  Lake  to  California.  Therefore,  the  two 
riders  that  were  to  run  between  Salt  Lake  and  Rush  Valley 
were  kept  at  the  city. 

Father  alone   of  all   the   officers   of  the   line   thought   his 
boys  would  make  as  good  a  record  as  the  best  and,  if  they  did, 


Pony  Express;    Indians   after   rider. 
Pioneer  of  the   telegraph   line   in   the   west. 

there  would  be  no  rider  at  Rush  Valley  to  carry  the  Express 
on  to  the  city.  So  to  be  on  the  safe  side  Father  went  himself 
to  Rush  Valley.  And  sure  enough  his  boys  delivered  the 
goods  as  he  expected,  and  he  started  on  his  first  ride.  It  was 
a  stormy  afternoon,  but  all  went  well  with  him  till  on  the 
"home  stretch." 

The  pony  on  this  run  was  a  very  swift,  fiery  and  frac- 
tious animal.  The  night  was  so  dark  that  it  was  impossible 
to  see  the  road,  and  there  was  a  strong  wind  blowing  from  the 
north,  carrying  a  sleet  that  cut  the  face  while  trying  to  look 
ahead.  But  as  long  as  he  could  hear  the  pony's  feet  pounding 
the  road,  he  sent  him  ahead  at  full  speed. 

All  went  well,  but  when  he  got  to  Mill  Creek,  that  was 


200 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

covered  by  a  plank  bridge,  he  heard  the  pony's  feet  strike  the 
bridge  and  the  next  instant  pony  and  rider  landed  in  the 
creek,  which  wet  Father  above  the  knees,  but  the  next  instant, 
with  one  spring,  the  little  brute  was  out  and  pounding  the 
road  again  and  very  soon  put  the  surprise  on  the  knowing  ones. 
And  here  let  me  say,  it  was  a  very  long  time  before  the  regu- 
lar riders  came  up  to  the  time  made  on  this  first  trip,  if  they 
ever  did." 

This  Pony  Express  continued  in  operation  until  the  Over- 
land Telegraph  line  was  completed,  October  18,  1861,  from  the 
east  to  Salt  Lake,  and  October  24th  from  the  west.  All  the 
fast  messages,  of  course,  went  by  telegraph,  and  there  was  no 
more  need  for  the  Pony  Express,  as  there  was  at  that  time  a 
daily  mail  coach,  the  Overland  Mail,  running  regularly  and 
continued  for  many  years. 

'"Indian  Raids. — The  Indians  attacked  the  mail  station  at 
Deep  Creek,  stole  a  band  of  horses,  and  shot  a  man  May  28, 
1860.  They  made  a  raid  on  Egan  Canyon  station  August  12th, 
and  the  following  day  on  Schell  Creek.  A  company  of  soldiers 
came  to  the  rescue  and  killed  seventeen  Indians. 

The  Overland  Mail  coach,  with  four  passengers,  was 
attacked  by  Indians  at  Eight  Mile  Station,  near  Peep  Creek. 
The  station  men  were  killed,  also  Henry  Harper,  the  driver, 
and  one  passenger  wounded.  Judge  Mott.  delegate  to  Con- 
gress from 'Nevada,  climbed  out  of  the  stage,  got  the  lines  and 
made  their  escape  to  Deep  Creek.  (See  details  of  this  in  later 
article.  Indian  Outbreak.)  This  was  on  March  22nd,  1803. 
Near  Canvon  Station.  May  19th,  the  driver,  W.  R.  Simson  was 
shot  while  Father  was  riding  by  his  side,  who  pulled  him  into 
the  boot,  got  the  reins,  stopped  the  coach  and  ordered  out  the 
soldiers  to  return  the  fire,  one  of  Avhom  was  shot  between  the 
toes.  On  the  8th  of  July.  1863,  the  Indians  attacked  Canyon 
Station  near  Deep  Creek,  killing  four  soldiers  and  Bill  Riley, 
the  water  wagon  driver,  the  latter  of  whom  was  thrown  on 
the  wood  pile  bv^the  Indians  and  burned.  One  of  the  soldiers, 
being  bald  and  havinsr  a  heavy  beard,  the  heard  was  cut  off  by 
the  Indians  instead  of  the  scalp.  This  happened  the  day  after 
we  arrived  at  Deep  Creek  with  our  freight  train,  at  the  sta- 
tion we  had  passed,  and  I  saw  the  dead  soldiers  who  wen- 
brought  down  there  for  burial,  and  noted  the  bald  soldier  with 
his  chin  whiskers  cut  off. 

The  writer  was  then  a  boy  of  twelve  and  was  traveling 
with  Brother  Erastus,  who  had  charge  of  three  six-mule  teams. 
I  and  another  bov  were  night  herders  and  we  were  on  our 
way  with  grain,  freighting  from  Salt  Lake  for  the  mail  sta- 
tions and  continued  on  to  Carson,  where  we  bought  goods  to 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 


201 


stock  Father's  stores  at  Ruby  Valley  and  Deep  Creek.  At  this 
same  time  my  brother  Howard  had  charge  of  about  ten  big 
government  wagons  with  four  yoke  of  oxen  to  each  wagon  with 
freight  for  the  stations,  and  he  went  as  far  as  Dimond  Springs 
with  it.  The  mule  and  ox  trains  were  owned  by  Father.  Be- 
fore we  left  Deep  Creek  with  these  trains,  Eight  Mile  Station, 
next  one  west,  was  burned  by  Indians. 


*35— DEEP  CREEK. 

Before  the  Deep  Creek  ranch  was  purchased  by  Father  the 
old  trail  ran  south  from  Willow  Springs  around  Deep  Creek 
(now  called  by  its  Indian  name  of  I-ba-pah),  but  after  that 
ranch  Avas  bought,  it  was  made  a  station  on  the  Overland  Mail 


teep    Creek    ranch    and    mall    station.     Left    to    right,    H.    R.    Egan's    residence, 
driver's    sleeping    rooms,    the    station    with    rest    rooms    and    eating    rooms, 

Line  and  our  principal  home.  Deep  Creek  was  headquarters 
for  many  years,  where  Father  and  his  sons  were  quite  success^ 
ful  in  raising  hay  and  grain  for  the  mail  stations  and  in 
ranching.  The  home  station  eating  house  was  also  kept  and 
the  stations  along  the  road  supplied  with  beef  and  mutton. 
About  twenty  cows  were  kept  for  milking,  which  chore  fell  to 
the  lot  of  the  waiter  and  brother  Hyrum,  as  well  as  the  cowboy 
job  of  riding  the  range  for  beef  cattle,  hunting  horses  and 
herding  sheep,  as  well  as  helping  on  the  farm,  plowing,  plant- 
ing and  irrigating,  hauling  hay,  etc. 

Father  was  superintendent  on  the  Overland  Mail  Line  and 
all  these  activities  were  carried  on  successfully  until  May  10th, 
1869,  when  the  railroad  was  completed  on  the  northern  route, 
north  of  Salt  Lake,  leaving  Deep  Creek  almost  entirely  out  of 
the  general  line  of  traffic,  until  of  recent  years  the  Lincoln 
Highway  has  been  established  and  this  old  route  now  again 
becomes  re-established,  especially  for  auto  travel,  it  being  well 
selected  for  this  purpose  as  it  is  the  shortest  and  best  route 
to  the  Pacific  coast.  We  are  proud  to  say  that  Father  spent 
many  a.hard  day  and  many  a  hard  trip  in  searching  it  out 


202  PIONEERING'    THE    WEST 


SEC.  Ill— STORIES  OF  WESTERN  ROUTE,  ETC. 
36— GETTING  RID  OF  AN  INDIAN. 

The  articles  and  stories  of  thrilling  experiences,  to  the 
end  of  the  book,  were  written  by  Brother  H.  R.  Egan  and 
speak  for  themselves. 

When  Father  was  very  busy  trying  to  get  things  in  shape 
to  put  a  line  of  mail  coaches  on  the  Western  Route  across  the 
desert  to  California,  on  one  occasion  I  was  his  driver  of  a  little 
spring  wagon  or  ambulance.  The  pack  trail  at  that  time  ran 
through  Pleasant  Valley,  which  is  about  thirty  miles  south  of 
Deep  Creek  the  present  through  route. 

We  were  going  west  from  the  Pleasant  Valley  camp  and 
had  made  about  ten  miles  when  we  saw  an  Indian  trotting  along 
back  of  the  wagon.  When  he  noticed  that  we  had  seen  him 
he  ran  alongside  of  the  front  wheel.  Father  stood  this  as  long 
as  his  nerves  could  stand  it,  for  he  expected  to  see  the  man 
get  tangled  in  the  wheel  at  any  moment,  for  he  had  to  keep 
dodging  around  the  sage  brush  and  was  doing  this  on  the  runr 
all  the  time  looking  at  Father.  So  to  get  rid  of  him.  Father 
asked  me  if  I  had  any  loose  powder  Avith  me,  a  flask  of  which 
I  always  carried  for  pistol  loading. 

He  held  out  his  hand  and  T  gave  him  a  few  loads;  the 
Indian  saw  this  and  was  all  grinning  with  pleasure.  The  team 
at  this  time  was  trotting  on  a  down  grade,  and  in  handing 
the  powder  out  to  the  Buck's  outstretched  hand  Father  pre- 
tended to  be  jolted  so,  by  the  swaying  of  the  Avagon,  that  he 
missed  the  Indian's  hand,  and  the  poAvder  fell  to  the  ground 
in  a  scattered  condition  in  dust  and  sage  leaA'es.  The  Indian 
dropped  like  he  had  been  shot,  to  his  knees,  and  as  far  as 
•we  could  see  him,  was  Avorking  to  pick  up  the  poAvder. 

Father  said,  "Well,  I  thought  of  that  plan  to  get  rid  of 
him  and  I  guess  that  •will  hold  him  back  till  we  haA*e  time  to 
bait  the  animals  and  get  our  supper  in  Spring  Valley"  (about 
eight  miles  further  on).  We  lost  no  time,  and  arrived  at  our 
camp  just  before  sundoAvn,  staked  the  team  on  good  grass, 
and  got  our  grub  nearly  ready  to  eat  when  Mr.  Indian  Avalked 
tip  to  our  fire.  Father  looked  up  to  me  as  much  as  to  say 
"fooled." 

After  a  while  Father  said,   "I  should   like   to  Unow   how 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST  203 

much  of  that  powder  he  saved."  I  said,  "Every  "rain,  or  he 
would  have  been  there  yet."  "Ask  him,"  said  Father.  I  did, 
and  the  Indian  showed  us  that  he  had  tied  it  up  in  one  corner 
of  his  shirt  tail,  which  was  all  the  clothing  he  had  on.  The 
bunch  looked  to  be  about  the  bulk  of  clean  powder  that  had 
been  dropped  for  him.  Father  said  he  would  like  to  see  it.  I 
told  the  Indian  to  untie  it  and  let  us  see  it ;  he  did,  and  to  our 
surprise  we  could  not  detect  a  particle  of  dirt.  It  was  as 
clean  as  that  in  my  flask.  How  did  he  do  it  .' 

I  learned  afterwards  that  he  had  taken  off  his  shirt, 
spread  it  down  near  the  powder,  and  was  very  careful  to  -coop 
up  all  the  powder  together  with  dirt  dust  and  leaves,  putting 
it  all  on  the  shirt.  When  this  had  been  done  he  removed  to 
another  corner  of  the  shirt  all  the  coarse  dirt  and  leaves  which 
were  there,  searched  and  then  cast  it  off.  Then  the  process 
was  simply  to  shake  and  blow  out  the  dust  and  pick  out  gravel 
or  lumps  of  dirt  that  would  not  crumble.  We  had  traveled 
at  about  eight  miles  an  hour.  The  Indian  had  appeared  at 
our  camp  in  less  than  one  hour  after  we  had  stopped  to  feed. 
He  must  have  done  the  job  pretty  quick  and  then  run  like  a 
race  horse  every  step  of  the  way  from  where  the  powder  was 
dropped  to  camp,  yet  he  did  not  seem  to  be  the  Idftst  bit  tired, 
not  even  sweating.  Well,  he  earned  his  supper,  and  got  it. 


37— A  RUN  FOR  LIFE. 

Bolly  and  two  others  of  the  mail  boys  were  building  the 
first  log  cabin  at  Dry  Creek,  and  had  the  log's  laid  up  and 
the  roof  on,  but  the  spaces  between  the  logs  had  not  .yet  been 
chinked  or  plastered.  The  road  ran  in  front  of  the  door,  and 
just  across  it  they  had  placed  the  covered  top  wagon-bed  to 
serve  as  store  room  until  the  house  was  ready  to  use.  The 
cooking  stove  had  been  put  in  place  and  the  cook  this  morning 
had  just  started  to  make  a  fire  to  get  breakfast. 

Bolly  had  just  crawled  out  of  bed  and  gone  back  of  the 
wagon,  and  was  only  partly  dressed,  but  having  hi*  belt  that 
carried  his  pistol,  in  his  hand.  The  other  man  was  still  in  'he 
wagon  ready  to  come  out,  when  there  was  a  gun  shot,  and  the 
cook  came  running  out  of  the  house  crying,  "Indians!  I  am 
shot.  Boys,  run  for  your  life!  They  are  back  of  the  house 
trying  to  shoot  at  us  through  the  cracks." 

The  boys  by  this  time  were  close  together  and  soon  saw 
that  they  must  set  farther  from  the  wagon  or  be  killed,  with- 
out returning  the  compliment.  So  they  ran  down  the  road 
about  one  hundred  yards,  where  they  stopped  to  counoil  as  to 


204 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

their  next  move.  Should  they  try  to  hunt  up  the  team,  or  en- 
deavor to  stand  the  Indians  off? 

Each  of  the  boys  had  his  pistol  and  a  pouch  of  ammuni- 
tion on  his  belt.  They  did  not  get  much  time  to  consider,  for 
the  Indians  showed  up  in  a  larger  band  than  was  expected  and 
were  trying  to  surround  the  boys-  to  prevent  any  from  escap- 
ing. Seeing  this  move,  the  boys  agreed  that  their  only  chance 
for  life  was  to  run  for  the  next  station  east,  twenty-five  or 
thirty  miles  away,  and  at  once,  as  the  Indians  were  almost 
abreast  of  them  and  had  to  be  kept  back  by  pointing  revolvers 
at  them. 

The  boys  started  on  the  run,  when  the  cook  told  them  to 
take  his  pistol  and  leave  him  and  save  themselves,  as  lie  could 
not  run  any  more,  and  was  dying  anyhow.  The  boys  would  not 
consent  to  that,  but  one  on  each  side  took  hold  of  him  to  help 
him  along,  but  very  soon  he  said,  "If  you  won't  leave  me,  cave 
me  my  pistol  so  I  can  help  to  fight  them." 

They  gave  him  the  gun  and  as  the  Indians  had  to  keep 
their  heads  out  of  sight  while  they  were  running  down  a 
crooked  ravine,  the  boys  could  walk  a  few  steps  once  in  a  while, 
and  still  keep  ahead.  They  were  doing  this  when  the  cook, 
who  had  fallen  back  tAvo  or  three  steps,  shot  his  own  brains 
out  and  fell  in  the  middle  of  the  road. 

"\Ve  cannot  help  him  now,"  said  Bolly  and,  taking  the 
pistol  and  belt  off  the  man,  the  two  Avent  off  on  the  run  to 
keep  out  of  the  trap  the  Indians  Avere  trying  to  get  them  in. 
After  going  some  three  or  four  miles,  the  country  was  getting 
so  smooth  and  level  there  Avas  no  chance  for  the  Indians  to 
spring  a  surprise  on  them,  and  the  Indians  were  afraid  to 
attack  them  on  open  ground. 

So  after  theA*  got  Avell  down  in  the  ATalley  to  a  place  where 
they  had  a  good  view  of  the  country  for  a  feAV  miles  in  all 
directions,  they  made  a  halt  to  rest  and  to  deliberate  as  to  wnot 
to  do  to  get  out  of  their  scrape.  The  station  they  were  going 
to  had  probably  been  treated  the  same  as  the  one  they  had  left, 
and  no  knowing  how  many  more.  HOAV  far  would  they  have  to 
travel  before  they  could  get  a  square  meal? 

They  at  last  agreed  to  save  their  strength  by  traveling 
slowly  so  as  to  reach  the  station  after  dark,  and  from  some  other 
direction  than  the  road  and,  if  there  were  Indians  .there,  to 
try  a  surprise  on  them,  if  there  Avas  any  chance  of  success 
whatever.  They  approached  the  station  at  the  time  and,  as 
agreed,  pistols  in  hand.  They  tip-toed  around  the  house  to  the 
door  and  listened  for  some  signs  of  life  before  kicking  at  the 
door.  Just  then  some  one  inside  said,  "I  heard  something  out- 
side, did  you?"  "Yes,"  yelled  Bolly,  "there  is  something 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 205 

out  here  and  darn  hungry,  too.  Open  the  door  for  the  chil- 
dren," which  was  done  at  once,  and  when  the  boys  had  eaten 
their  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper  and  told  their  story,  it 
was  decided  to  hold  the  fort.  As  they  expected  the  pack  train 
with  the  mail  at  any  old  time,  and  then  they  would  be  strong 
enough  to  be  the  attacking-  party.  They  prepared  for  emer- 
gencies, and  sure  enough  the  next  evening  the  mail  arrived 
with  three  carriers,  which  made  their  force  seven  well  armed 
men.  who  had  no  scare  in  their  make-up  and  all  ready  for  any 
skirmish  that  might  turn  up. 

Their  animals  had  to  have  a  rest  and  feed,  so  it  was  de- 
cided to  stay  there  till  10  or  12  o'clock  that  night  before 
starting  west,  which  they  did.  and  arrived  to  where  the  dead 
man  lay  in  the  road,  about  10  a.  m.  The  Indians  had  stripped 
him  of  all  clothing  and  then  left  him.  He  had  been  shot  right 
through  the  body,  and  it  is  a  wonder  that  he  lived  and  traveled 
so  far  after  being  shot  that  way.  They  buried  him  just  to 
one  side  of  the  road. 

There  had  been  left  two  men  at  the  station,  so  there  were 
five  to  go  with  the  mail.  They  found,  that  the  Indians  had 
burned  up  the  wagon  bed  and  tried  to  burn  the  house,  but  it 
was  built  of  green  logs  and  would  not  burn.  The  team  that 
was  left  there  was  never  recovered  or  even  heard  of.  There, 
had  not  been  any  other  station  on  the  line  attacked  at  this 
time  and  Bolly  was  soon  back  on  his  old  stamping  ground. 


38^" TRACKING  STOLEN  MULES." 

It  was  while  we  were  bringing  back  from  Ruby  Valley  four 
mules  we  were  to  leave  at  Deep  Creek.  The  "we"  was  my 
companion  (Lafayette  Ball.  Bolly,  as  he  was  called  for  short) 
and  myself.  We  had  reached  a  point  near  the  south  end  of 
Spring  Valley,  eight  or  ten  miles  east  of  Shell  Creek,  when 
there  came  up  a  violent  rain  storm,  wetting  our  clothes 
through.  So  we  concluded  to  camp  for  the  night  in  a  bunch 
of  cedars  that  was  close  to  the  trail  we  were  traveling.  We 
staked  two  of  the  mules  on  good  feed  and  let  the  two  we  had 
ridden  all  day  run  loose,  thinking  they  would  not  ramble  very 
far  away.  We  made  a  good  big  fire,  and  stripping,  dried  our 
clothes  and  blankets,  and  went  to  bed. 

Just  as  day  was  breaking,  Bolly  awoke  and  said.  "You 
make  a  fire  while  I  get  the  mules."  The  two  not  picketed 
were  not  in  sight.  He  was  gone  till  nearly  sunrise— no  mules. 
He  said  he  had  circled  their  tracks  and  found  they  were  going- 
in  a  southwest  direction  for  Shell  Creek  mountains,  and  one 
going  directly  behind  the  other.  He  said,  "They  are  stolen. 


206 P  T  0  y  E  E  R  I  N  G      T  H  E      W  E  S  T 

What  shall  we  do?''  "You  say  first."  "Well,  I  say,  mules  or 
hair."  "Good,  the  same  here."  We  were  not  long;  in 
saddling-  up  and  getting  to  the  place  where  Bolly  had  found 
the  trail. 

From  this  place  to  where  the  trail  would  reach  the  moun- 
tains, if  it  ran  straight,  would  be  about  five  or  six  miles. 
Where  the  trail  was  plain  we  would  ride  side  by  side  as  fast 
as  possible,  the  trail  between  us.  But  when  it  was  not  plain 
and  hard  to  locate,  we  would  one  of  us  keep  to  the  trail 
going'  as  fast  as  he  could  pick  out  the  tracks,  the  other  would 
rush  ahead  for  half  a  mile  or  so  in  the  direction  the  tracks 
were  leading,  and  as  soon  as  he  saw  the  tracks  would  motion 
back  to  the  other,  who  would  then  drop  the  trail  and  run  as 
fast  as  possible  up  ahead  of  the  other  to  find  the  trail. 

So  we  were  making'  pretty  fast  time  and  were  not  long 
in  reaching  the  mountains,  and  here  our  really  hard  work  was 
found,  for  the  tracks  led  along  the  side  of  the  mountain,  over 
and  across  ledges  of  rock,  where  only  a  little  iron  mark  was 
made  by  the  mules'  shoes.  We  were  also  careful  not  to  fall 
into  an  ambush.  But  by  one  riding  ahead  as  far  as  he  could, 
yet  keeping  in  sight  of  the  other,  we  were  still  making  pretty 
good  time. 

Bolly,  in  crossing  one  of  these  ledges  could  not  find  the 
trail,  and  therefore  was  circling  back  towards  me,  but  below 
the  rocks.  He  motioned  that  he  was  right;  I  was  soon  at  his 
side.  Here  the  trail  was  very  plain,  going  in  a  southeast  direc- 
tion as  if  to  cross  the  valley  diagonally.  When  we  got  out 
of  the  timber  line  there  was  nothing-  to  do  but  keep  a  watch 
ahead  and  follow  the  trail  as  fast  as  we  could  go. 

After  doing  this  for  about  tliree  miles  we  came  to  within 
a  hundred  yards  of  a  large,  rocky  knoll  or  mound  covering 
about  one  acre,  and  about  twenty-five  feet  high  near  the  center. 
Bolly  (who  was  ahead  at  this  point)  said  "Keep  a  watch  on 
that  hill,  for  the  mules  have  been  turned  loose  and  the  thieves 
may  take  a  shot  at  us."  We  could  tell  by  the  wav  the  tracks 
criss-crossed  back  and  forth  that  the  mules  were  left  to  ramble 
as  they  wished.  Bolly  said,  "Shall  we  get  them,  or  the  mules 
first?"  I  said,  "We  were  hunting  mules  and  T  think  \vi-  had 
better  find  them  first,  and  then  if  we  come  across  the  thieves 
we  can  have  a  deal  with  them." 

Before  we  started  on  the  trail  again  we  circled  that  mound, 
keeping  off  at  what  we  thought  a  safe  distance,  and  far  enough 
apart  that  one  or  the  other  could  see  the  opposite  side  of  the 
mound,  but  no  Indian  showed  up.  Still  we  were  sure  they 
were  there  yet,  and  if  we  half  wanted  them  we  would  have 
found  a  wav  to  <_ret  them. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 207 

The  mules  had  turned  west,  going  towards  the  foothills, 
which  we  soon  reached,  and  when  we  sighted  the  mules,  they 
were  feeding  along  as  they  went  up  a  ravine,  probably  hunting 
water.  When  we  caught  them  we  noticed  that  one  of  the 
mules  had  not  been  ridden,  the  other  had  carried  both  Indians. 
The  one  they  had  led  still  had  the  rope  dragging  from  his 
neck.  Bolly  said  that  mule  would  not  be  ridden  bare-back.  All 
this  compelled  the  Indians  to  travel  more  slowly. 

As  we  started  back  on  a  straight  line  for  where  we  had 
camped,  we  passed  about  half  way  between  the  timber  line  and 
the  mound  where  the  mules  had  been  turned  loose.  "Shall  we 
investigate?"  said  I.  "No  use,"  said  Bolly.  "for  look  there," 
pointing  towards  the  timber.  And  sure  enough,  there  they  were, 
running  at  their  best  speed  for  taller  ground  We  let  them  go. 

A  couple  of  years  later  I  got  the  names  of  the  two  young 
bucks  who  did  the  stealing.  Their  excuse  was  that  they  thought 
us  immigrants  who  had  two  animals  apiece  while  they  had  none. 
But  they  began  to  be  afraid  they  had  made  a  mistake  when 
they  saw  how  they  were  being  trailed,  and  when  we  were  cir- 
cling the  mound,  on  which  they  were,  one  said,  "If  I  get  a 
chance  I  will  take  a  shot  at  one."  The  other  said,  "Don't 
you  shoot,  for  if  you  do  we  will  both  be  killed,  for  doii't  you 
know  who  it  is  that  wears  that  antelope  skin  shirt?  He  never 
misses.  Lay  down  and  maybe  they  won't  bother  us,  for  they 
surely  know  we  are  here. ' ' 

We  got  to  our  camp  about  dark,  this  time  picketing  the 
four  mules,  and  they  were  all  right  next  morning,  but  we  were 
one  day  late  at  our  destination. 


39.     CHANGING  A  CAMP  AFTER  DARK. 

In  the  times  of  Indian  trouble  we  were  very  careful  where 
we  located  our  camp  at  night,  but  sometimes  there  was  not 
much  room  to  choose  from.  It  so  happened  to  a  party  of  three. 
They  had  a  choice  of  a  camp  up  the  flat  a  few  rods,  or  down 
about  the  same  distance,  but  stopped  about  the  middle, 
picketed  their  horses  on  the  best  feed  in  sisht,  irot  their  supper 
and  made  their  bed  down  while  yet  light.  One  of  the  men 
noticed  that  across  the  hollow  and  about  thirty  yards  distant 
•was  a  ledge  of  rocks  that  made  this  a  poor  camping  place  for 
safety. 

There  was  nothing  doing  till  it  got  quite  dark,  then  the 
animals  were  moved  back  down  the  hollow,  and  the  :iamp 
moved  down,  and  the  bed  remade,  but  no  fire  kindled.  The 
first  fire  had  been  left  burning.  In  the  morning  all  Avas  found 
to  be  all  right  and  they  started  on  their  Avay  up  the  holloAv, 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


and,  as  they  were  passing  the  place  of  their  first  camp  fire, 
one  of  them  saw  an  arrow  sticking  in  the  around  close  to 
where  their  bed  had  first  heen  laid  down,  and  looking,  found 
two  or  three  more,  and  no  two  pointed  alike,  proving  that 
there  were  three  or  four  of  the  Indians  that  firod  them  from 
the  ledge. 

One  of  the  boys  said,  "A  happy  move;  a  miss  is  as  good 
as  a  mile."  An  Indian  generally  has  his  own  arrows  all 
marked  one  way  and  all  the  same.  This  is  done  by  small  rings 
or  stripes  of  different  colors  around  the  feathered  end  of  the 
arrow,  no  dispute  as  to  whose  arrow  killed  the  game,  the  ar- 
row would  show  that. 


Marked    Arrows. 

40.     MY  THREE  DAYS'  FAST. 

It  came  about  in  this  way.  Ben  Holladay.  who  had  a 
large  interest  in  the  Overland  Mail  Line,  was  to  make  a  quick 
trip  across  the  continent,  and  Father,  who  was  the  boss  of  the 
road  from  Salt  Lake  to  Carson  City,  made  all  preparations  foi 
a  fast  run.  The  time  was  set  when  Holladay  should  start  from 
New  York,  and  figured  out  by  the  road  agents,  as  we  called 
them,  when  he  would  arrive  on  their  division. 

Father,  as  I  suppose — as  did  all  the  other  agents — sent  re- 
lays or  stage  teams  back  east  of  their  station,  half  way  to  the 
next  station,  thus  giving  each  driver  a  fresh  team  half  way 
"between  stations,  which  would  enable  him  to  greatly  increase 
his  speed.  This  was  carried  out  all  along  the  line,  but  lather 
had  merely  said  in  his  note:  "Send  a  relay  back  to  such  a 
point,  and  at  such  a  time,  and  wait  for  me  till  I  come." 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


I  was  stationed  at  Butte  and,  on  the  date  set,  with  L.  Ball 
and  the  four  mules,  went  back  some  eighteen  or  twenty  miles 
to  Egan  Canyon,  where  we  arrived  about  noon  and  had  just 
got  settled  down  to  prepare  our  dinner  when  two  of  the  Shell 
Creek  boys  came  in  and  said  they  had  lost  the  relay  mules  a,nd 
had  come  this  way  in  search  of  them.  They  were  fourteen 
miles  from  their  home  station  and  as  many  more  from  theil 
relay  camp.  They  had  started  to  get  the  mules  at  daylight 
and  without  any  breakfast,  had  ridden  a  good  many  miles.  Thc^ 
were  hungry  as  wolves. 

We  had  brought  enough  grub  with  us  for  three  meals,  din- 
ner, supper  and  breakfast,  if  we  needed  it,  for  the  stage 'was 
to  come  anywhere  between  sundown  and  midnight.  So  we  all 
turned  loose  on  the  "grub  pile,"  and  it  was  but  a  few  minutes 
before  all  the  eatables  had  vanished,  also  the  mule  hunters. 

Bolly  (as  we  called  my  chum)  and  I  had  no  supper  that 
night  and,  in  fact,  nothing  till  we  reached  our  home  station 
three  days  later.  Well,  the  time  dragged  along  slowly.  The 
second  day  brought  up  the  hunger  to  such  a  pitch  that  we  held 
a  joint  debate  as  to  whether  we  go  back  home  or  not,  for  we 
did  not  dare  to  separate  and  one  go  back  for  grub,  as  a  band 
of  strange  Indians  had  come  and  made  their  camp  less  than  a 
half  mile  from  us.  We  decided  to  stay  at  our  post  at  least 
another  twenty-four  hours. 

That  evening  one  of  the  Indians,  a  very  big  fellow,  came 
to  our  fire.  When  I  asked  him  what  he  wanted,  he  replied  by 
asking  if  we  were  hungry.  I  told  him  no,  and  after  looking  all 
around  to  see  how  we  were  fixed,  he  pulled  out  from  under  his 
blanket  a  piece  of  fresh  antelope  meat  about  the  size  of  your 
two  hands,  and  said  he  wanted  to  trade  that  for  powder  and 
bullets.  I  asked  him,  "How  much?"  He  said,  "Twenty 
charges  powder,  twenty  bullets,  twenty  caps."  I  said  to 
Bolly,  "What  do  you  think  about  that?"'  "Well,"  said  Bolly, 
"if  he  gets  that  much  from  me  I  would  not  give  much  for  his 
hide.  It  would  be  so  full  of  holes  as  to  be  quite  unsaleable. ' ' 

The  Indian,  after  hearing  my  refusal  to  trade,  and  a  gentle 
nod  towards  his  camp,  turned  and  went  to  his  friends,  who, 
we  could  see,  were  all  watching  what  was  going  on  at  our  camp. 
Just  as  dark  set  in  we  moved  our  saddles  and  traps  to  another 
place,  but  close  to  the  road,  changed  the  mules  to  another  place 
on  the  opposite  side  of  our  camp  from  the  Indians,  and  thus, 
by  sleeping  one  at  a  time,  we  passed  the  night,  and  still  no 
stage. 

In  the  morning  we  found  that  the  Indians  had  moved 
about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  further  away.  For  what  purpose  we 
did  not  know  or  care  much.  About  noon  Bolly  came  to  me, 


210 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

where  I  was  on  guard,  and  asked  me  for  some  smoking  paper, 
as  he  had  used  up  all  the  paper  he  had  brought  with  him  but 
had  quite  a  bunch  of  tobacco.  Well,  I  had  used  up  the  last 
slip  of 'paper  I  could  rake  up  about  two  hours  before,  intending 
to  get  some  from  Bolly.  There  we  were,  two  smokers  up 
against  it,  plenty  of  tobacco  with  no  pipe  or  paper. 

Bolly  tried  a  cigarette  made  of  tobacco  and  a  piece  of  cot- 
ton shirt  tail,  but  it  was  no  good.  We  must  find  something 
better,  but  how  and  \vhere?  Bolly  said  if  he  could  find  some 
clay  he  could  make  a  pipe  and  bake  it  in  the  fire,  and  started 
off  to  find  the  clay  along  the  creek,  and  in  the  meantime  I  was 
hard  at  work  splitting  a  small  willow,  cutting  out  the  center 
and  wrapping  the  two  halves  together  to  make  a  stem  for  the 
pipe.  After  he  had  made  the  pipe  and  cooked  it  a  while,  he 
removed  it  from  the  fire,  when  it  broke  and  crumbled  to  fine 
dirt.  "Good-bye,"  says  Bolly,  "for,  like  the  'Fox  and  the 
Grapes,'  I  don't  want  to  smoke  anyhow,"  so  went  back  to  his 
perch  on  the  point  of  the  rocks,  close  to  the  road  and  to  the 
mules,  and  where  he  could  view  the  Indian  camp,  also  the  road 
a  short  distance  down  the  canyon  in  the  direction  the  stage  was 
to  come  from.  While  there  he  saw  a  half  dozen  Indian  hunters 
return  to  their  camp  with  two  or  three  dead  antelope  they  had 
run  down  and  shot  that  forenoon. 

After  Bolly  had  made  a  mess  of  the  pipe  business  I,  merely 
to  pass  off  the  time  some  way,  hunted  along  the  creek  for  a 
willow  large  enough  to  be  whittled  into  a  pipe  form.  Not  find- 
ing one,  I  returned  to  camp  and  sat  down  on  the  Avire  grass 
sod  to  await  events.  Seeing  my  crude  pipe  stem,  I  picked  it 
up  and  had  a  new  thought  at  the  same  time.  I  cut  the  grass 
off  a  small  piece  of  ground  and,  after  pounding  it  down  to 
make  it  solid,  I  proceeded  to  cut  down  in  it  the  shape  of  a 
pipe  bowl,  then  a  long  slanting  trench  from  the  bottom  of  the 
bowl  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  about  a  foot  from  the 
bowl.  Then  I  placed  my  pipe  stem  in  this  trench,  tamping 
the  dirt  down  over  it,  and  when  I  had  got  through,  T  found 
I  could  blow  through  it,  so  I  filled  it  with  tobacco,  put  a  coal 
of  fire  on,  and  had  a  very  cool  and  pleasant  smoke.  I  called 
to  Bolly  to  come,  and  that  I  had  made  a  pipe,  but  it  was  r/ot 
portable.  "Nothing  doing,"  said  Bolly,  till  I  drew  a  long 
whiff  of  smoke  from  the  pipe,  then  stood  up  and  blew  the 
smoke  up  in  the  air.  That  brought  him  on  the  run,  and  look- 
.ing  at  the  thing,  he  said,  "By  Heck!  and  how  simple."  I 
imagine  I  can  see  him  now.  laying  down  on  his  side,  nn'l  one 
elbow  on  the  ground  (in  a  comfortable  position)  to  reach  the 
pipe  stem,  which  stuck  up  about  six  inches.  Well,  no  more 
trouble  about  smoking  while  there. 


PIONEERING    THE.  WEST 211 

On  the  third  day  of  our  stay  there,  we  had  just  put  the 
mules  on  fresh  grass,  just  as  day  was  breaking  in  the  east 
and  while  standing  there  at  the  side  of  the  road,  we  heard  the 
welcome  rumble  of  the  coach,  and  by  the  time  we  brought  our 
saddles  to  the  road,  the  stage,  vath  Father  and  Holladay  drew 
up,  and  immediately  the  team  was  unharnessed,  and  our  fresh 
team  put  on.  As  the  harness  was  taken  off  the  wheelers, 
Father  said,  "You  boys  put  your  saddles  on  these,  as  they  are 
not  the  least  tired,  and  be  ready  to  start  as  soon  as  the  team 
is  hitched  up,  and  you  keep  close  behind  us,  understand."  We 
said,  "Yes." 

When  he  had  got  on  the  stage  beside  the  driver,  he  reached 
under  the  seat  and  brought  out  some  bread  that  had  been 
baked  in  a  skillet  and  was  dry  and  very  haro.  Breaking  the 
cake  in  two,  he  gave  one  part  to  Bolly  and, the  other  to  me. 
Bolly  looked  towards  the  creek.  Father  saw  him  and  said, 
"No,  there  is  not  time  for  that.  Come  and  we'll  start  for  the 
station."  The  boys  that  had  lost  their  mules  had  reported 
to  Father  that  they  had  eaten  all  of  our  grub,  and  that  we 
must  have  gone  back  to  our  station,  therefore  he  would  not  get 
the  change  of  animals  he  had  planned  for. 

"Who  were  the  boys  that  were  there?"  said  he.  On  be- 
ing told  that  they  were  Bolly  and  Howard,  he  said,  "Give  me 
a  loaf  of  bread  for  them,  for  I  will  find  them  at  their  post  if 
alive."  Well,  when  we  got  within  sight  of  the  station,  about 
one-half  mile  from  it,  we  got  down  to  a  walk,  and  when  we 
arrived  Father  had  already  gone  on  his  way,  but  had  left  direc- 
tions to  the  cook  how  and  what  to  prepare  for  us>  to  eat,  being 
afraid  we  might  overfeed  ourselves  if  we  had  our  own  way 
about  it.  He  also  knew  that  we  could  not  eat  much  of  the 
bread  he  had  given  us  without  water,  which  we  did  not  have, 
and  in  fact  did  not  get  down  more  than  a  couple  of  bites  on 
the  whole  sixteen  miles  to  the  station. 

Here  let  me  say  at  the  very  place  and  spot  where  I  had 
invented  the  importable  pipe,  were,  a  few  years  later,  built  by 
Judge  Doughertv,  a  forty-stamp  quartz  mill,  which  was  in 
operation  the  last  time  T  visited  the  canyon. 


41.— MAIL  CARRIER. 

Father  was  George  Chorpening's  agent,  or  partner,  when 
he  had  the  contract  to  carry  the  mail  from  Salt  Lake  to  Cali- 
fornia. T  don't  know  whether  he  had  the  contract  to  the  east 
or  not,  but  I  know  Father's  division  was  from  Salt  Lake  to 
Placerville,  California,  and,  as  the  time  came  that  money  failed 


212 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


to  come  to  pay  off  the  men  or  other  expenses,  Father  was 
forced  to  dig  up  and  use  every  resource  to  keep  the  Mail  going, 
expecting  c.oiy  day  lo  it^eive  Jic  money  .  laat  lie  ImJ  L»cen 
told  by  letter  from  the  boss  had  been  sent  by  a  trusty  agent 
bv  way  of  California.  • 


OVERLAND  MAIL  CO. 


Mail  stage   coach   on   Overland   hne.       Prominent  in   Pioneering   and   the   develo 
ment  of  the  great  west. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 213 

*  About  the  year  1856,  after  Father  had  selected  the  route 
for  the  mail  line  to  California,  Howard  R.  Egan,  then  sixteen 
years  of  age,  drove  the  first  mail  coach  from  Salt  Lake  City 
to  California.  As  the  stations  were  not  then  stocked,  it  is 
probable  that  the  same  team  and  coach  went  clear  through, 
camping  on  the  way. 

Father  afterwards  learned  that  this  trusty  agent  was  a 
connection  of  the' boss,  and  when  he  arrived  in  San  Francisco 
he  was  either  robbed  of  the  whole  amount  or  had  gambled  it 
away.  Tt  was  supposed  it  melted  by  the  latter  process.  Chor- 
pening  had  written  that  he  would  soon  have  another  payment 
from  the  government  and  for  Father  to  keep  the  mails  run- 
ning as  long  as  possible,  but  after  a  few  months  there  came  a 
change  of  the  contractors. 

Ben  Holliday  and  associates  re-stocked  the  line  with  men, 
teams  and  coaches.  I  was  at  Willow  Springs  at  the  time  and, 
not  wishing  to  work  as  hostler,  went  to  Ruby  Valley,  where- 
Father  and  his  partner,  W.  H.  Sherman,  had  a  good-sized  sup- 
ply store.  Besides,  they  owned  the  station  and  were  doing  a 
good  business,  especially  in  the  season  when  emigrants  were 
traveling  through.  I  had  not  received  a  dollar  for  thirteen 
months,  and  when  T  next  saw  Father  he  offered  to  give  me  an 
outfit  and  furnish  the  necessary  supplies  if  I  would  go  down 
the  valley  and  pick  out  a  good  place  and  start  a  farm,  and  he 
would  wait  till  I  raised  the  grain  to  pay  him  back.  That 
sounded  good  enough  to  me,  so  I  went  down  about  twenty 
miles  and  took  up  the  first  farm  in  Ruby  Valley. 

It  was  a  fine  location,  a  mountain  stream  coming  out  of  a 
heavy  timbered  canyon  ran  through  the  land  down  to  the  lake 
in  the  valley  below,  with  an  immense  strip  of  meadow  land  all 
around  it.  T  built  a  log  house  and  did  some  plowing,  trying 
to  get  ready  for  fall  planting,  when  I  received  word  from 
Father  to  pull  up  stakes  and  come  to  Deep  Creek  and  to  staxt 
at  once,  not  to  wait  another  day,  as  he  had  learned  through 
Dimmick  Huntington  that  the  Indians  were  eroing  to  make  a  t 
raid  on  that  country.  I  did  not  believe  it,  but  then,  Father  . 
must  lie  obeved.  So  as  soon  as  the  ox  teams  oould  travel  there 
I  arrived  at  Beep  Creek. 

It  was  understood  I  was  to  be  a  partner  with  Father  and 
brother  Erastus,  but  after  some  time  something  at  Riiby  Sta- 
tion did  not  suit  Father  so  he  had  Erastus  move  out  there  and 
take  charge  of  the  business,  with  the  understanding,  as  I  take 
it,  of  beine:  a  partner  with  Father  in  that  concern. 

But  after  some  time  there  seems  to  have  been  a  different 
plan  mapped  ont.  For  one  day  I  received  a  list  of  animals, 


214 PIONEERING     THL    WEST 

wagons,  chains,  plows,  harrow  teeth,  milk  pans,  twelve  cows, 
and  in  fact  about  everything;  that  would  be  useful  on  a  farm. 
The  cat  was  out  of  the  bag.  My  brother  \vas  going  to  farming 
the  place  I  had  started  to.  I  don't  remember  how  long  he 
worked  the  farm  before  he  received  a  notice  that  he  was  called 
on  a  mission  to  England.  I  know  that  he  immediately  stopped 
the  plowing,  made  arrangements  to  lease  or  sell  the  farm, 
started  for  Bountiful,  where  he  left  his  wife  in  the  care  of 
her  people,  and  went  on  his  mission. 

*Although  we  are  not  giving  a  biography  of  each  member 
of  the  family,  it  is  considered  advisable  to  add  here  to  what 
Howard  R.  has  said  above:  that  Erastus,  or  R.  E.  Egan,  be-1 
came  President  of  the  Birmingham,  Conference  in  England  dur- 
ing his  mission,  and  after  he  returned  he  went  again  to  the 
Ruby  Farm  for  a  short  time,  but  sold  out  and  moved  to 


Kirhnrd   Krawtiis 
I'ony     Kxpre.ss     lli«ler, 

isllOlt     of     South      II.MllHil.il. 

Address,    Byron,    Wyo. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 215 

Bountiful,  where  he  was  Bishop  of  South  Bountiful  for  very 
many  years.  He  was  among:  the  first  Pony  Express  riders, 
riding  from  Salt  Lake  to  Rush  Valley.  He  took  a  special  mis- 
sion to  hunt  up  the  genealogy  of  the  family.  He  went  to  the 
old  home  in  Tulemore,  Kings  county,  Ireland,  which  was  Duilt 
by  our  Great  Grandfather  Bernard  Egan  some  time  in  the 
eighteenth  century,  for  Grandfather  Howard  Egan  was  born  in 
it  in  1782  and  Father,  Major  Howard  Egan  was  born  in  it  in 
1815.  (See  page  10.)  He  obtained  all  he  could  of  the 
genealogy  of  relatives  there,  finding  that  Bernard  had  two 
sons,  Howard  and  William,  and  that  all  that  was  left  of  Will- 
iam's descendants  was  Edward,  a  bachelor  living  in  the  old 
home,  as  shown  in  the  picture,  as  he  stood  in  the  doorway. 

After  returning  from  there  he  went  to  Montreal,  Canada, 
where  Grandfaher  removed  the  family  to,  after  the  death  of 
Grandmother  Ann  Meade  Egan.  There  he  found  a  considerable 
number  of  the  family  which  he  has  faithfully  recorded,  but 
which  we  do  not  have  access  to  at  the  present  time.  He  also 
visited  Massachusetts  and  New  Hampshire  and  obtained  a  con- 
siderable genealogy  of  Mother's  relations,  the  Parsleys  and 
Caverlys,  and  has  done  what  temple  work  could  be  done  at  that 
time  for  them.  A  few  years  ago  he  moved  from  Bountiful  to 
Byron,  Wyo.,  in  the  Big  Horn  Basin,  where  he  noAV  lives.  His 
posterity  is  given  in  the  Appendix.  The  family  organization 
may  some  day  give  his  biography  more  fully,  as  well  as  some 
other  members  of  the  family. 

To  sho\\-  that  Father  was  agent  for  the  eastern  division  of 
the  Overland  Mail  Line,  in  answer  to  Howard's  inquiry  in  a 
preceding  paragraph  and  to  show  the  nature  of  some  of  his 
business  we  submit  a  couple  of  letters,  as  follows : 

Superintendent's  Office,  Indian  Affairs,  Utah. 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  June  17,  1859. 

Howard  Egan,  Esq..  General  Mail  Agent, 

Sir:  Please  inform  me  in  writing,  as  soon  as  convenient, 
of  Indian  depredations  committed  on  the  United  States  mail 
property  under  your  charge,  as  communicated  to  me  verbally 
this  day.  I  remain. 

Very  respectfully  your  obt.  servant, 

(Signed)  J.  FOURNEY,  Supt.  Ind.  Affairs.  U.  T. 

Salt  Lake  City,  March  14,  1861. 
Col.  Benj'n.  Davis,  Supt.  Indian  Affairs.   U.   T. 

Dear  Sir:  Mr.  W.  H.  Shearman  informed  me  that  during 
an  interview*  with  you  yesterday,  you  stated  that  you  had  in- 


216 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

formation  of  foul  play  having  been  used  towards  an  Indian 
who  was  missing  at  Willow  Springs,  on  the  C.  &  S.  L.  M. 
Line,  by  one  or  more  of  the  employees  of  said  line.  As  I  have 
no  knowledge  whatever  of  any  person  or  persons,  in  iny  em- 
ploy, having  been  engaged  in  any  such  nefarious  transaction, 
you  will  confer  a  favor  upon  me  by  referring  me  to  your 
informant. 

My  position,  sir,  entitles  me  to  demand  this  information, 
or  else  that  the  subject  be  never  again  mentioned  either  in 
private  or  public  connection  with  my  name. 

You  will  oblige  me  by  replying  at  your  earliest  conven- 
ience. Very  respectfully, 

(Signed')  HOWARD  EGAN, 

Agent  Eastern  Division,  C.  &  S.  L.  Mail  Line. 


42.— FATHER'S  INDIAN  DOCTOR. 

While  Father  was  out  west  on  the  mail  line  one  hot  spring- 
like day  before  the  snow  had  melted,  he  had  his  eyes  burned 
so  bad  that  he  was  completely  blinded  and  could  not  stand  the 
least  bit  of  light,  and  although  he  kept  them  bandaged  with 
dead  tea  leaves,  they  did  not  seem  to  get  any  better. 

After  a  couple  of  days  of  misery,  two  Indians  came  to 
the  station  where  he  was.  One  of  them  asked  one  of  the  men, 
"Egan  sick?"  The  man  said,  "Yes,  eye  sick.  No  see.  Snow 
no  good."  "Me  see  Egan. " 

The  man  told  Father  that  there  was  an  Indian  there  that 
wanted  to  see  him.  "Well,  let  him  come  in."  He  did  so. 
The  Buck  came  up.  close  to  Father  and  said,  "Big  sick?" 
Father  said,  pointing  to  his  eyes,  "Eyes  big  sick;  you  savey 
fix  them."  He  had  hardly  got  the  words  out  of  his  mouth 
when  the  Indian  jumped  and  caught  Father's  head  in  both 
hands,  and  at  the  same  time  pushing  the  bandage  out  of  the 
way,  placed  his  mouth  over  one  eye  and  set  to  sucking  with 
all  his  strength. 

Father  said  he  thought  the  buck  would  suck  his  eye  out, 
if  not  his  brains  too.  He  tried  his  best  to  push  the  Indian 
off,  but  he  only  stayed  and  sucked  the  faster.  But  just  be- 
fore Father  had  made  up  his  mind  to  choke  him  off,  the 
Indian  stepped  back  a  little  and  spit  up  as  much  or  more  than 
a  tablespoonful  of  blood.  After  a  little  rest  he  said,  "Fix 
more?"  Father  said,  "Fix  little,  eye  big  sick."  "Alright, 
little  fix."  But  when  he  got  fastened  to  the  other  eve  he 
worked  just  as  hard  as  before,  with  the  same  result,  Father 
trying  to  push  him  off,  but  no  <ro,  he  was  after  the  blood  and 
he  would  not  let  go  till  he  got  it.  • 


PIONEERING     THL     WEST 217 

After  about  one  hour  the  buck  said,  "A  little,  more  fix 
eve?"  Father  said  as  his  eyes  felt  to  be  considerable  better, 
he  thought  he  could  stand  a  small  dose  of  the  same  medicine, 
and  told  the  fellow,  "Fix  little  bit."  Well,  he  did,  but  with 
just  about  the  same  force.  AVhen  he  got  through  he  said,  "Big 
Chief  see  all  right  two  days,"  which  proved  true.  In  two  days 
after  the  operation  Father  joined  the  pack  train  and  went  to 
Salt  Lake,  his  eyes  perfectly  cured  of  snow  blindness.  He  says 
he  would  sooner  stand  the  Indian  treatment  than  to  suffer 
any  length  of  time  without  it.  There  was  no  pain  after  the 
dose,  but  plenty  and  very  severe  before. 


43.— A  TRIP  TO  RUBY  WITH  BEEF  CATTLE. 

In  the  fall  of  1862,  Father  wanted  to  send  fifty  or  sixty 
head  of  beef  cattle  from  Salt  Lake  to  Ruby  Valley,  and  as  I 
was  at  home  on  a  furlough,  he  did  not  ask  me  if  I  would  drive 
them  out,  but  said,  "I  want  you  to  take  these  animals  out  to 
Ruby,  and  you  must  start  tomorrow,  for  they  need  them  there 
now.  Everything  is  ready,  a  Avagon  loaded  with  about  a  ton 
of  supplies,  three  yoke  of  broken  oxen,  two  ponies  for  the 
two  Indian  night  herders,  and  an  ox  driver  or  teamster."  My- 
self and  riding  pony  made  up  the  whole  outfit.  1  was  told  to 
make  as  good  time  as  I  could,  but  get  the  beef  through  in 
the  best  shape  possible,  and  keep  a  good  watch  on  the  ani- 
mals, as  there  was  a  good  deal  of  stealing  going  on  about  that 
time. 

All  went  well,  although  there  was  a  sleet  storm  when  we 
started  from  a  ranch  just  south  of  the  city,  where  the  cattle 
had  been  pastured  while  the  outfit  was  got  ready.  The  sec- 
ond day  out  we  had,  by  noon,  crossed  the  Jordan  and  made 
our  dinner  camp  on  the  west  side  of  the  divide  that  separates 
Utah  and  Cedar  valleys.'  While  we  were  eating  dinner,  Lot 
Huntington  rode  into  camp,  ate  dinner  with  us,  and  during 
the  conversation  I  learned  that  lie  was  going  put  west  and 
misrht  join  us  later  on.  and  travel  with  us  as  far  as  Ruby 
Yallev.  That  was  the  last  1  ever  saw  of  Lot. 

The  next  nisrht  we  camped  in  Rush  Vallev  about  ten  or 
twelve  miles  east  of  the  Faust  Mai]  Station.  We  were  camped 
close  to  the  road  and  in  the  night  heard  a  stage,  going  west. 
pass  by.  I  thought,  it  strange,  for  it  was  not  a  mail  day,  as 
they  were  only  running  tri-weekly  at  that  time.  And  I  was 
more  pu?.zled  when,  next  morninsr.  as  we  were  about  to  move 
camp,  another  stage  came  from  the  west  and  stopped  opposite 
our  camp  fire  and  Porter  Rockwell,  the  sheriff,  or  deputy. 


218 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

sang  out:  "Hello  kids,  all  right?"  "Yes,  all  right  so  far." 
"Good!  Your  Father  told  me  to  tell  you — whose  ox  is  that1?" 
(pointing  to  an  animal  standing  a  couple  of  rods  away).  "You 
had  better  ask  Father  when  you  see  him.  These  cattle  at  pres- 
ent are  every  one  of  them  mine.  What  did  Father  say?" 
"Oh,  all  right.  He  said  for  you  to  be  very  careful  and  keep  a 
good  watch  on  the  cattle  and  guard  them  well." 

I  noticed  that  those  on  the  coach,  I  could  see.  were  all 
heavily  armed.  I  supposed  there  had  been  a  rabbit  hunt,  as 
there  were  on  frequent  occasions  in  the  fall.  When  we  reached 
Faust  Station  we  found  there  had  been  a  hunt,  not  a  rabbit 
hunt,  but  a  man  hunt,  and  the  men  that  were  hunted  were  in 
that  stage  coach  with  the  sheriff.  One,  Lot  Huntington,  being 
dead,  and  the  other  a  prisoner.  The  latter  was  killed  while 
trying  to  escape  after  arriving  in  Salt  Lake  City. 

I  could  give  more  details  of  the  affair  as  I  heard  it  at 
the  station  but.  as  I  did  not  see  it,  will  only  say  that  it  was 
afterwards  reported  that  a  certain  gang  had  planned  to  cap- 
ture my  herd  of  beef  before  I  could  get  them  to  Ruby,  drive 
them  south  to  the  Simpson's,  and  trail  them  west  to  California, 
where  thev  would  sell  for  a  hundred  dollars  a  head.  Quite  a 
tempting  bate  for  the  speculating  trio  of  saloon  bums.  Well, 
they  could  have  taken  the  whole  outfit  very  easily  by  coming 
and  joining  us  and  taking  their  choice  of  time  and  place  for 
the  coup,  as  I  was  well  acquainted  with  them  and  supposed 
they  were  good  friends,  although  I  never  had  any  deal  with 
them,  or  played  with  them  as  boys.  Thougli  some  were  neigh- 
bors, they  were  a  class  older  than  my  chums  or  T.  If  there 
•was  a  plot  laid  for  me,  old  Porter  burst  the  bubble  and  I  got 
through  safe. 

When  we  arrived  at  Simpson  Springs  the  pony  rider  told 
ns  we  could  not  cross  the  river  bed  (seven  miles  west)  until 
the  road  was  repaired,  as  there  had  been  a  big  flood  that  had 
torn  the  whole  bottom  out,  road  and  all.  The  rider  on  the 
previous  trip,  going  west,  as  he  started  down  the  bank,  heard 
a  sound  like  a  very  heavy  wind  amona:  trees.  He  stopped  to 
listen;  the  sound  was  coming  from  the  east  and  increasing 
rapidly.  He  put  spurs  to  the  pony  and,  just  as  he  made  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bed,  he  could  see  a  wall  of  water,  brush 
and  other  debris,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  high,  spread  from 
hank  to  bank,  rolling  down  the  bed  at  race  horse  speed.  If  he 
had  been  one-fourth  of  the  distance  back  across  the  bed,  when 
he  first  saw  the  flood,  he  could  not  have  escaped  with  his 
life. 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 219 

When  we  arrived  there,  by  a  little  exploring  and  zig-zag- 
ing,  we  made  across  with  not  much  loss  of  time.  But  what  a 
wreck  of  country!  The  whole  bottom  of  the  old  river  bed 
had  been  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  very  large  sagebrush; 
all  had  been  torn  out  root  and  branch,  and  the  level  bottom 
that  had  been,  was  now  gulled  and  gouged  in  a  terrible  fashion. 
There  had  been  no  storm  at  this  place,  but  there  had  been  seen, 
that  morning,  a  heavy  storm  on  the  mountains  about  seven  or 
eight  miles  to  the  east,  and  there  was  perhaps  a  cloudburst,  for 
a  common  rain  over  a  sandy  country  could  not- have  done  the 
job. 

That  river  bed  was  no  place  for  a  station,  but  they  built 
one  there  and  dug  a  well  that  furnished  very  good,  but  a  little 
brackish,  water,  which  they  hauled  to  the  Dugway  Station, 
where  there  were  three  men  and  a  change  of  horses  for  the 
mail  coach.  One  man  tended  the  horses  and  acted  as  cook.  The 
other  two  were  digging  a  well  for  water.  I  was  let  down  that 
well  when  they  had  reached  a  depth  of  on.e  hundred  and  thir- 
teen feet.  I  have  never  seen  anything  like  that  before  or  since. 
The  surface  soil  at  this  place  is  a  white  clay  that  is  very  sticky 
when  wet.  The  walls  of  this  well  are  of  the  same  material 
from  top  to  bottom  and  about  the  same  dampness  from  three 
feet  down  to  the  bottom,  where  I  cut  my  name  in  the  side 
about  two  feet  above.  The  wall  was  very  smooth  and  plumb, 
no  need  of  curbing  and  no  danger  of  ever  caving  in.  Some 
time  after  men  were  put  to  work  boring  with  a  well  auger  in 
the  bottom.  They  bored  some  forty  feet  and  found  no 
change.  Then  the  job  of  trying  more  to  find  water  there  was 
given  up  and  it  made  a  nice  place  to  dump  the  stable  cleanings. 

When  I  reached  the  desert  just  east  of  Fish  Springs,  the 
road  was  very  bad.  mud  hub  deep,  and  my  work  oxen  gave  out 
when  I  wras  about  four  or  -five  miles  from  the  Springs  and 
could  not  bud  Lie  the  wagon  another  foot.  I  had  the  driver 
unhitch  from  the  wagon,  take  some  grub  for  himself  and  the 
Indians,  who  had  gone  ahead  with  the  cattle,  and  also  take 
my  pony  and  drive  the  team  to  Avater  and  feed,  and  come  back 
next  morning  with  one  of  the  Indians  to  help  get  the  wagon 
over  to  hard  ground. 

When  they  came  back  next  day  we  moved  the  wagon 
about  one-half  a  mile,  where  the  road  was  still  worse  than 
before.  There  were  three  empty  coaches  stuck  in  the  mud 
within  a  half  mile  of  us.  Well.  I  simply. had  to  get  out  of 
there  some  way.  There  was  a  part  of  the  load  I  must  not  leave 
alone.  So  this  is  the  way  I  managed  it:  We  had  a  double 
cover  on  the  wagon.  We  took  them  off  and  spread  them  out 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


on  the  mud  alongside  the  wagon  and  loaded  the  most  of  the 
valuables  on  it  and  folded  the  sides  and  ends  tight  over  all, 
hitched  the  oxen  to  the  end  and  away  we  went  as  easy  as 
pulling  a  sleigh  over  a  good  snow  road. 

It  was  easy  after  that.  All  was  over  but  the  wagon  by 
night.  Next  day  I  sent  the  driver  and  one  Indian  back  to  get 
the  wagon  if  they  had  to  take  it  all  apart  and  haul  it  on  the 
wagon  cover,  which  did  not  appear  to  be  damaged  at  all  after 
about  ten-  miles '  drag  with  a  load  over  the  creamy  alkali,  sand- 
less  but  sticky  mud.  The  inside  of  the  wagon  wheels  had  the 
appearance  of  an  old-fashioned  wooden  butter  bowl,  in  this  case 
'turned  by  contact  with  the  bolster  of  the  wag-on.  On  the  out- 
side there  would  be  no  hub  or  spoke  in  sight,  and  mud  would 
pile  on  till  of  its  own  weight  a  portion  would  fall  off,  but  at 
next  turn  of  the  wheel  would  be  on  the  job  again. 

Well,  we  made  it  across  all  right  and  had  no  more  trouble 
'till  we  passed  Butte  Station  about  a  mile,  where  there  is  a 
very  steep  pull  going  west  and,  as  the  snow  had  drifted  very 
.heavily  over  the  crest,  our  team  gave  out  jus't  about  a  couple 
of  rods  below  the  summit  and,  as  there  was  not  expected  a 
mail  stage  for  at  least  ten  or  twelve  hours,  we  left  the  wagon 
right  in  the  center  of  the  road  where  there  was  no  passing 
around  it  with  a  wagon  or  sleigh.  So  when  the  stage  that  night 
came  up  to  that  point,  the  driver  unhitched  his  leaders,  hooked 
on  the  back  of  our  wagon  and  dragged  it  back  down  the  hill 
to  near  the  bottom.  This  we  did  not  know  till  next  morning, 
when  the  driver  and  one  of  the  Indians  went  back  after  the 
wagon,  as  we  were  camped  some  distance  off  the  road  and 
had  not  heard  the  Mail  pass.  My  driver  made  some  bad  talk, 
so  the  Indian  said,  when  he  found  the  wagon  down  at  the 
bottom,  but  he  hooked  on  and  did  not  have  the  least  bit  of 
trouble  getting  over,  and  when  he  came  to  camp  was  in  good 
spirits  and  seemed  to  think  it  had  all  worked  out  for  the 

I  haven't  the  time  or  space  to  tell  of  how  we  lassoed  and 
snubbed  up  and  yoked  up  a  couple  of  the  beef  steers  just 
before  we  got  to  Mountain  Springs,  the  last  station  between  us 
and  Ruby.  The  road  through  this  little  valley  was  all  staked 
out  as  the  snow  was  very  deep  and  only  traveled  by  sleighs, 
but  thanks  to  our  extra  team  and  with  frequent  digging  out, 
we  srot  through,  the  beef  helping  to  break  the  road.  Ruby,  at 
lasC  but  beef  not  as  fat  as  when  we  started,  but  all  there. 

44.— SHORT  LINE  CUT  OFF. 

I  was  at  Rush  Valley  Station  (H.  J.  Faust,  station 
keeper).  This  was  the  end  of  the  first  express  ride  from  Salt 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 221 

Lake  City.  The  next  ride  was  from  here  to  Willow  Springs 
across  the  desert.  The  stations  at  this  time  were  only  half 
as  many  as  they  were  later,  being  some  twenty-five  or  thirty 
miles  apart  and  at  some  places  more  than  that.  Well,  the  ex- 
press came  in  from  the  east,  the  next  rider  was  not  well  and 
was  afraid  he  could  not  stand  the  ride.  I  volunteered  to  go  in 
his  place,  and  arrived  at  Simpson  Springs  at  the  edge  of  the 
desert  all  right. 

From  here  the  road  runs  in  a  southwesterly  direction 
is'even  miles,  to  River  Bed,  then  keeping  the  same  direction  to 
the  Dug-way,  then  over  the  mountain,  taking  many  turns  to  the 
salt  wells,  then  west  around  the  point  of  mountain  where  the 
road  ran  nearly  west  across  the  worst  part  of  the  desert.  Noth- 
ing but  mud  grows  there  and  that  seems  to  get  taller  the 
more  you  sink  in  it,  and  the  harder  it  is  to  get  out.  It  then 
goes  north  past  Fish  Springs,  around  the  point  of  the  moun- 
tain and  back  to  the  south,  about  opposite  of  Fish  Springs  to 
where  Boyd  Station  was  afterwards  built.  From  here  the 
road  ran  in  a  westerly  straight  line  to  the  Willow  Spring  Sta- 
tion, thus  making  a  large  semi-circle,  the  points  of  which  were 
many  miles  closer  together  straight  across  than  by  the  road. 

After  leaving  Simpson's  about  three  miles  I  thought  (as 
I  had  many  times  thought  before),  it  was  a  shame  we  had  to 
go  so  many  miles  around  to  get  a  little  ways  to  the  west.  At 
any  rate,  boy  fashion,  I  left  the  road  and  took  a  straight  line 
for  Willow  Springs.  The  first  half  of  the  distance  I  was  able 
to  make  very  good  time,  then  the  desert  began  to  get  softer  as 
I  went  till  finally  about  one  inch  of  water  was  standing  all 
over  the  surface  as  far  as  I  could  see  in  any  direction.  The 
pony  sank  to  his  fetlocks  in  the  mud,  that  made  it  slow 
traveling. 

After  about  five  miles  of  this  kind  I  came  to  a  little 
higher  ground  where  I  could  make  better  time.  In  looking 
back  I  could  see  the  little  knobs  of  mud  sticking  up  above 
the  water.  It  seemed  to  me  I  could  see  them  for  miles.  Well, 
I  made  Willow  Springs  all  right  and  had  saved  a  good  many 
hours'  time.  I  expected  to  get  considerable  praise  for  this 
exploit,  but  nix. 

This  is  what  I  got:  The  next  time  I  saw  Father  it  was 
for  only  a  few  moments;  he  asked  me  what  kind  of  traveling 
I  found  it  to  be  across  the  way  I  took  with  that  express. 
After  telling  him,  he  said,  "Well,  don't  ever  do  anything  like 
that  aeain  without  orders."  That  was  all,  and  plenfv.  I 
never  did,  for  that  was  a  cold  bath  for  me.  I  would  like  to 
cross  that  route  again  and  measure  it. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


45.— IRRIGATION. 

When  Father  and  his  partner  (Mr.  Severe)  had  got  some 
land  cleared,  plowed  and  seeded  to  wheat  on  their  new  loca- 
tion at  Deep  Creek,  Mr.  Severe  running  the  place  while 
Father  tended  to  bis  mail  business,  Father,  in  passing  that 
way,  stopped  over  long  enough  to  ride  over  the  place  with 
the  boss  to  see  what  had  been  done  and  lay  plans  for  the 
future. 

In  going  along  a  small  field  of  grain  Father  said,  "This 
looks  fine,  but  don't  it  need  irrigating?"  "Yes,"  said  the 
boss,  "I  sent  a  couple  of  hands  early  this  morning  with  their 
dinners  to  turn  the  creek  and  water  it.  I  wonder  where  they 
are."  This  was  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon. 

In  going  around  a  clump  of  willows  they  found  the  two 
men  lying  on  their  backs,  on  the  west  side  of  the  willows, 
both  sound  asleep,  paying  no  heed  to  the  sting  of  flies  or 
mosquitos.  After  they  had  been  awakened  Father  said, 
"Boys,  if  you  had  wanted  to  take  a  little  rest  why  didn't  you 
get  in  the  shade?"  "Why,"  said  one,  "it  was  shady  here 
when  we  laid  down."  They  must  have  been  very  tired,  for 
they  had  lain  there  at  least  six  or  eight  hours. 

Live  Irrigating  Machine. — It  Avas  this  same  field,  a  few 
years  later,  I  sent  a  couple  of  green  hands  to  work  putting  a 
dam  in  a  creek  1;o  turn  the  water  and  irrigate.  They  were 
gone  about  half  a  day,  came  back  and  said  "there  could  not 
be  a  dam  made  there  without  lumber."  "I'll  see  about  that 
and  prove  different." 

Calling  my  Indian  (Ned)  I  told  him  what  I  wanted  done 
and  sent  one  of  the  m-en  with  him  to  help  him  put  in  the  dam 
and  irrigate  that  field.  Just  before  sundown  the  white  man 
came  back  and  said  the  Indian  had  motioned  for  him  to 
leave.  He  didn't  know  what  for.  I  told  him  I  would  know 
when  the  Indian  came  in.  The  Indian  said,  "Keep  that  white 
man  out  of  the  wheat  or  he  will  dig  it  all  up,"  so  I  let  Ned 
have  his  way  about  it. 

Next  day  I  was  going  to  take  a  ride  down  the  valley,  and 
told  Mr.  Muncey,  the  operator,  if  he  wanted  to  go  there  was 
a  horse  in  the  stable  that  he  could  ride.  Much  pleased,  he 
accepted  the  invitation,  and  enjoyed  a  long  ride.  In  return- 
ing, I  thought  I  would  see  how  Ned  was  getting  along  with  t!ie 
irrigating,  so  we  came  up  through  the  fields  that  way.  We 
came  to  where  Ned  was  at  work.  He  hud  stuck  his  shovel 
where  he  could  see  it.  and  with  pants  and  shoes  off  was 
stooping  over  and  with  his  fingers  spread  out,  was  going 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 223 

backwards,  making  little  drills  for  the  water  to  reach  the  dry 
places.  When  Muncey  saw  that,  he  said,  "Well,  I'll  be  d — d 
if  that  ain't  the  first  live  irrigating1  machine  I  ever  saw,"  and 
it  did  look  comical. 

Coyote  in  Chicken  House. — At  Deep  Creek  we  had  a  large 
chicken  house  built  of  logs,  the  door  of  which  faced  the 
kitchen  door,  and  about  forty  feet  from  it,  and  on  the  west  side 
of  the  yard  that  was  formed,  which  was  about  sixty  feet 
square.  The  stables  were  on  the  south  side,  the  bunk-house 
on  the  east,  the  row  of  buildings  (double  row),  the  whole  length 
of  the  north  line.  The  west  room  was  the  telegraph  office, 
and  in  which  the  operator  slept.  About  sixteen  feet  west  of 
the  office  was  the  northeast  corner  of  a  field,  and  in  this 
corner  was  our  garden  fenced  off  along  the  road,  and  from 
the  corner  down  back  of  the  hen  house. 

It  Avas  just  at  dusk  as  Father  came  out  of  the  stable,  he 
saw  a  coyote  enter  the  hen  house,  the  door  of  which  had  not 
yet  been  closed  for  the  night.  He  ran  as  fast  as  he  could  and 
pulled  the  door  shut;  he  then  ran  to  the  telegraph  office  for 
the  shotgun  that  most  always  could  be  found  there.  "Ed  (the 
operator's  name),  hand  me  the  shotgun,  quick!"  "What  is 
it?"  "Oh,  only  a  coyote  in  the  hen  house." 

:  In  place  of  handing  out  the  gun  he  came  out  with  it,  and 
excited,  ran  for  the  hen  house,  but  seeing  the  door  shut,  he 
said,  "Where  is  the  coyote?"  "Inside,"  said  Father;  "give 
me  the  gun  and  I  will  get  him."  "No,  let  me  shoot  him. 
Open  the  door."  The  door  was  opened,  but  it  was  so  dark 
inside  that  they  could  not  see  very  plain.  But  finally  Ed  said, 
"I  see  him"  and  he  fired.  There  was  a  terrible  commotion 
in  that  hen  house,  for  there  were  about  one  hundred  chickens 
and  a  coyote  very  badly  scared. 

The  coyote  was  trying  to  escape  by  way  of  the  roosts, 
knocking  the  chickens  to  the  floor,  but  it  was  not  chicken  he 
wanted  just  then.  Father  said,  "No  use  to  shoot  again  till 
we  get  a  lantern  so  we  can  see  the  thief.  Stay  in  the  door 
till  I  get  a  light."  "Alright,  hurry  up."  When  a  light  was 
finally  turned  into  that  house,  there  squatted  the  coyote  in 
one  comer  watching  for  a  chance  to  spring  out  of  the  door, 
and  the  chickens  fairly  climbing  all  over  him. 

After  getting  the  light  in  the  best  position  to  show  up 
the  coyote,  Ed  fired  again,  causing  another  outburst  of 
squacks  and  cacklings.  When  the  smoke  cleared  away,  Father 
dragged  the  coyote  outside  and  then  picked  up  five  or  six 
large  chickens  that  Ed  had  shot.  He  said,  "See  here,  young 
man,  what  you  have  done,  and  on  purpose,  too.  I  believe." 


224 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

The  next  morning  Father  \vas  up  early.  He  took  the 
coyote  that  had  frozen  stiff  during  the  night  and  set  it  up 
about  thirty  yards  from  the  house  in  the  garden  and  propped 
it  up  with  some  sticks  to  appear  as  if  alive.  Then  going  to 
the  office,  he  called  Ed  to  hand  out  the  gun.  "What  for?" 
"A  coyote  in  the  garden — the  gun  quick  before  he  goes." 
The  gun  comes  and  Ed  with  it.  "Where  is  he?"  and  turn- 
ing around  the  corner  of  the  house,  said,  "I  see  him;  that's 
my  hide,"  and  he  fired.  The  coyote  seemed  to  squat  a  little. 
Father  said,  "You  missed  him."  Ed  fired  again.  This  time 
the  coyote  fell  down. 

"I  got  him  this  time,"  he  said,  and  stood  the  gun  up 
against  the  house  while  he  climbed  over  the  fence  to  get  the 
coyote  to  place  beside  the  one  he  killed  last  night.  When  he 
took  hold  of  it  he  found  that  it  was  frozen  stiff.  He  then 
knew  that  he  had  been  sold,  and  turning  around  to  accuse 
Father,  he  found  that  there  was  no  Father  to  be  seen,  for 
he  was  in  the  messroom  telling  the  boys  how  Ed  had  killed 
a  dead  coyote,  and  when  breakfast  was  called,  every  one  Ed 
met  had  a  grin  on  his  face. 

"At  dinner  when  all  Avere  seated  around  the  table,  the 
cook  brought  in  the  final  dish,  which  was  the  cooked  chickens. 
Placing  it  on  the  table  he  looked  at  Ed  and  nodded.  Ed  said, 
"Is  this  the  chickens  the  coyote  killed1?"  '.'I.  guess  so.  for 
they  were  plumb  full  of  shot."  Then  the  "Ha!  Ha!  Ha!" 
all  around. 

While  we  are  talking  of  coyotes,  and  just  to  prove  that 
there  were  a  few  out  there,  let  me  tell  you  that  one  night  one 
of  the  men  that  slept  in  the  bunk-house  went  outside  and  left 
the  door  open,  and  the  blacksmith,  whose  bunk  faced  the  door, 
saw  a  covote  come  into  the  room.  He  kept  still  till  the  men 
came  back,  then  he  said,  "Close  the  door  quick!  There  is  a 
coyote  in  here." 

The  man  was  frightened  and  feared  the  covote  would  bite 
his  bare  legs,  and  attempted  to  go  out  again,  when  the  black- 
smith said,  "Stand  ^till  a  minute  while  I  H<rht  the  candle. 
Then  we  can  get  him."  The  man  obeyed,  and  when  the  light 
was  made,  there  in  one  corner,  and  under  the  bunks  crouched 
the  covote,  Avhich  Avas  soon  made  ready  for  skinning. 

Another  dark  evening  one  of  the  men  was  passing  along 
by  the  I'.otr  pen  with  a  lantern.  TTo  heard  flip  <>H  sow  making 
a  terrible  fuss.  He  went  to  tho  side  of  the  pen  and  swung  the 
lantern  over  into  the  pen.  then  he  could  see  the  oil  sow 
harked  ur>  in  a  corner  Avith  her  six  or  ei^rht  youni;'  nigs  behind 
her.  lur  bristles  sticking  straight  up  and  her  mouth  op«n.  Tn 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


225 


the  opposite  corner  crouched  the  cause  of  all  that  commotion. 
a  lame  coyote,  who  was  either  after  a  young  pig  or  a  supper 
out  of  the  heir  trough.  Well,  his  hide  was  worth  one  dollar. 


PART  IV. 

THRILLING  EXPERIENCES  OF 

PRE-FRONTIER  LIFE,  INDIAN  CUSTOMS 

AND  LEGENDS. 

SEC.  I.— INDIAN  PRACTICE. 
46.— A  LITTLE  SURPRISE 

To  a  Small  Band  of  Indians,  and  This  Is  How  It  Came  About. 
The  express  rider  at  Shell  Creek  was  too  sick  to  under- 
take the  ride,  and  I  volunteered  to  take  his  place.  The  ride 
at  that  time  was  from  Shell  to  Butte,  there  being  no  station 
at  Egan  Canyon  at  that  time.  Therefore  the  one  pony  had  to 
go  about  thirty-two  miles,  fourteen  of  them  being  to  Egan. 
I  started  just  at  dark  and  made  pretty  good  time,  but  being 
careful  to  not  overdo  the  pony,  but  give  him  frequent  breath- 
ing spells,  at  which  times  I  would  let  him  go  on  the  walk,  and 
was  doing  so  when  I  was  about  in  the  middle  of  Egan  Canyon 
and,  just  before  turning  a  sharp  point  ahead  of  me,  I  could 
see  the  next  turn  of  that,  and  on  the  side  of  the  hill  towards 
me  the  light  of  a  fire  was  shining.  These  two  turns  were 
about  seventy-five  or  a  hundred  yards  apart,  but  the  curve 
the  creek  took  between  the  points  made  it  some  further.  As 
it  did  not  run  close  to  the  side  left  quite  a  large  flat,  which 
was  smooth  and  level. 

In  going  very  carefully  along  and  keeping  a  sharp  lookout 
for  a  sentinel,  I  reached  the  point  where  I  could  see  the  camp. 
They  were  on  both  sides  of  the  road  and  about  in  the  center 
of  the  bend.  Well.  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind  very  quickly 
as  to  what  I  should  do.  Should  I  turn  back  and  go  north  to 
another  canyon  about  six  or  eight  miles,  where  there  might  be 
another  party  of  Indians,  if  they  had  planned  to  catch  the 
express  rider?  I  could  not  wait  long,  as  their  dogs  might  scent 
me  and  give  the  alarm. 

'  Well,  I  soon  decided  to  go  straight,  so,  taking  my  pistol 
in  my  hand,  I  rode  on  as  close  as  I  dared,  then  striking  in  the 
spurs  and  giving  an  awful  yell,  a  few  jumps  of  the  pony  brought 
me  to  about  the  middle  of  the  camp,  when  my  gun  began  to 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 227 

talk,  though  pointed  up  in  the  air,  and  my  yells  accompanied 
each  shot.  I  got  a  glimpse  of  several  Indians  who  were  doing 
their  best  to  make  themselves  scarce,  not  knowing  but  there 
might  be  a  large  party  of  whites  after  them. 

When  I  made  the  next  turn,  I  was  out  in  the  little  valley 
at.  the  head  of  Egan  Canyon  and  had  two  trails  that  I  could 
take  to  finish.  I  chose  the  shortest  but  the  roughest  and  got 
home  all  right.  Three  days  later  I  came  back  through  the  can- 
yon with  a  companion.  We  saw  where  they  had  had  their 
camp-fires,  and  where  they  had  fastened  a  lariat  across  the 
road,  but  I  did  not  see  one  that  night  and  don't  know  how 
I  passed  it. 

Later  I  got  it  from  some  friendly  Indians  that  there  had 
been  a  trap  set  to  catch  an  express  rider  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  what  he  carried  to  make  him  travel  so  fast.  They  had 
placed  a  party  in  each  of  the  canyons  used,  when  suspicious  of 
the  other.  They  had  planned  it  pretty  good,  but  it  did  not 
work  and  they  never  tried  it  again  there,  but  if  I  had  turned 
back  and  tried  the  other  canyon,  probably  there  would  have 
been  one  " Express"  lost. 

47.— LASSO  PRACTICE:  WHERE  I  GOT  LEFT. 

It  was  while  I  was  building  the  new  Butte  station  that  I 
took  a  jaunt  to  the  north  along  the  range  of  mountains,  in 
hopes  of  locating  a  log  big  enough  and  long  enough  to  make 
a  ridge  pole  for  the  ro<'k  house.  It  needed  to  be  thirty  feet 
long.  After  going  ten  or  twelve  miles  and  not  finding  one,  I 
was  just  swinging  around  to  go  back  on  another  route  when  I 
came  to  a  family  camp  of  Indians.  Most  of  them  I  knew,  and 
the  father  was  a  good  friend  of  mine. 

After  joining  the  circle  that  was  sitting  around  a  small 
fire,  we  had  our  peace  smoke  and  I  told  them  what  I  was 
hunting.  The  old  man  said  he  thought  I  could  find  what  I 
wanted  across  the  valley  east  in  the  next  range  and  pointed 
out  the  canyon,  where  afterwards  I  found  what  I  Avanted.  I 
had  been  dragging  my  rawhide  lasso.  We  do  this  to  keep  them 
more  pliable.  When  I  was  ready  to  start  back,  I  thought  I 
would  coil  the  rope  up  and  tie  it  to  the  saddle  in  the  usual 
way,  but,  boy  fashion,  I  must  have  some  fun.  So  getting  on 
my  pony  I  made  a  large  loop,  and  before  they  knew  what  was 
coming,  I  threw  it  over  four  or  five  of  them,  which  caused 
much  laughter.  And  the  old  man  said,  "That  would  be  a  good 
way  to  catch  a  Squaw." 

I  said,  "Yes,  I  will  .try  it  on  your  girl."  So  I  tried.  She 
was  very  good  at  dodging,  but  at  the  third  throw  I  caught  her 
tight,  which  seemed  to  plague  her  considerably,  for  she  said  I 
could  not  catch  her  again  so  easily. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


When  about  to  start  home,  I  swung  the  rope  in  the  usual 
way,  and  looking  at  the  girl,  said  "Run!"  She  was  off  in  an 
instant,  but  instead  of  running  around  the  camp  she  dodged 
among  the  trees.  After  some  chasing  I  was  about  to  throw 
the  loop  when  she  ran  around  a  large  tree.  My  pony  being  a 
good  lasso  animal  gave  a  quick  jump  aside  to  head  her  off  and 
ran  under  a  low  limb  of  a  tree  which  caught  under  the  rim 
of  my  saddle,  breaking  the  cinch,  and  I  was  on  the  ground. 

The  old  man  was  the  first  to  rea^h  me  and,  finding  that 
I  had  not  been  hurt,  said,  "Shall  we  try  to  catch  your  horse?" 
I  said  there  was  no  use  unless  they  had  something  that  could 
run  faster  than  he  could,  but  I  would  give  any  of  them  five 
cups  of  flour  that  would  carry  my  saddle  to  the  station  and 
I  would  walk  back.  "Alright,"  said  the  old  man,  and,  point- 
ing to  the  saddle,  said,  "You  take  it"  (to  the  girl).  She  got 
the  things  together  and  started  off.  Going  about  fifty  yards 
she  stopped  until  I  got  through  talking  to  the  old  man  and 
got  started,  when  she  turned  and  went  ahead. 

That  was  as  close  to  her  as  I  could  get ;  the  faster  I  would 
go  the  faster  she  would.  When  I  reached  the  station  she  was 
standing  beside  the  door,  saddle  still  on  her  back.  I  asked  her 
if  she  was  tired  and  wanted  to  stay  all  night.  ' '  No,  flour. ' '  I 
said,  "Soon  dark;  aren't  you  afraid  to  go  now?"  "No  afraid 
to  go;  afraid  to  stay  here."  So  I  gave  her  the  flour  and  a 
chunk  of  cold  bread.  She  asked  for  a  drink  of  water  and  after 
getting  it  she  started  down  the  hill  on  the  run  for  their  camp. 

About  a  year  after,  she  came  to  the  station  with  a  band 
of  Indians  and  camped  near.  She  was  married.  When  I  went 
to  their  camp  I  saw  that  she  had  a  fire,  by  which  she  and  her 
man  sat.  I  said,  "I  see  that  a  man  did  catch  you."  "Yes,  but 
he  did  not  have  a  horse  and  saddle,"  and  seemed  to  think 
the  joke  was  on  me.  I  guess  it  was,  but  I  don't  like  to  own  it. 

48.—    EATING  ANTS. 

When  I  lived  at  Deep  Creek  I  had  occasion  to  send  some 
men  and  teams  south  to  what  we  called  "Fifteen  Mile  Canyon" 
to  get  some  saw  logs  down  to  the  loading  place.  They  were 
to  stay  there  till  Saturday,  then  come  home  with  a  couple  of 
loads.  When  they  had  been  gone  a  couple  of  days  I  thought 
I  would  go  up  and  see  how  they  were  getting  along.  I  got 
there  just  before  dinner  time,  while  the  rest  were  piling  th« 
logs  that  had  been  brought  out  of  the  canyon. 

There  Were  five  or  six  Squaws  sitting  around,  and  \vhen 
I  unsaddled  my  pony  I  noticed  that  there  was  a  great  many 
very  large  ant-hills  all  around  the  place.  I  had  heard  that  the 
Indiana  often  eat  them,  so  I  thought  I  would  see  for  myself. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


So,  pointing  to  a  large  hill,  I  asked  one  of  the  Squaws  if 
Indians  eat  them.  She  said,  "Yes."  "Are  they  good?" 
"Yes."  "Well,  I  am  very  hungry.  Hurry  up  and  get  some 
and  cook  them  just  the  same  as  Indians  like  them.  Hurry  up." 
She  gave  her  Papoose  to  another  Squaw  and,  taking  a  large 
flat  basket  arrangement,  pushed  the  top  of  the  hill  to  one  side 
and  then  scooped  up  about  a  peck  of  ants,  gravel,  dirt  and  all. 
Taking  it  to  one  side  she  spread  on  the  ground  a  piece  of  flour 
sack,  then  taking  the  pan  or  basket  in  her  hands,  gave  it  an 
up  and  down  motion  at  the  side  opposite  from  her.  You  ought 
to  see  those  ants  roll  over  the  side  and  fall  on  the  cloth !  But 
not  a  bit  of  gravel  or  speck  of  dirt  went  with  them.  I  have 
often  seen  the  Squaws  cleaning  grass  seed  or  wheat  the  same 
way,  only  the  wheat  or  seed  was  left  on  the  pan,  and  the  chaff 
and  dirt  went  over  the  edge. 

After  she  had  gone  to  the  hill  two  or  three  times,  she  had 
collected  about  a  quart  of»ants  and  eggs,  and  as  I  acted  like 
I  was  very  hungry,  she  asked  for  a  kettle  to  cook  them  in.  I 
asked  the  boys  for  the  loan  of  their  wash  bucket.  She  took 
the  bucket  and  went  to  the  creek,  got  what  water  she  wanted, 
piled  the  ants  in  and  put  it  on  the  fire. 

Then  she  asked  me  for  some  salt.  I  said,  "Indians  don't 
use  salt."  She  said,  "No,  but  they  like  it  but  don't  have  it." 
I  gave  her  a  handful  of  salt,  as  I  did  not  care  how  she  seasoned 
the  mess.  She  would  put  in  a  little,  stir  it  up  well  with  a  stick, 
then  taste,  put  in  a  little  more,  then  taste,  and  so  on  till  she 
was  satisfied  that  the  right  amount  was  used,  then  she  brought 
the  balance  of  the  salt  to  me.  I  told  her  to  keep  it,  pleasing 
her  very  much. 

Then  she  asked  me  for  a  little  flour.  I  asked  her  if 
Indians  used  flour  when  they  cooked  ants.  She  smiled  and 
said  they  would  if  they  had  it,  but  she  was  cooking  for  a  "Boss 
White  Man"  and  wanted  it  to  taste  good.  She  got  about  one- 
half  pint  of  flour.  After  that  was  all  stirred  in,  she  asked  me 
for  some  of  that  black  stuff  the  white  men  shake  on  their  food. 
That  was  pepper,  of  course.  I  gave  her  a  small  amount,  and 
when  that  was  added  she  gave  it  a  final  stir,  set  it  off  the  fire 
and  said,  "Now  you  can  eat." 

I  got  a  tin  plate  and  tablespoon  and  told  her  to  put  some 
on  that.  She  did  so.  "Now,  let  me  see  you  eat  it,"  I  said. 
She  laughed,  so  did  the  rest  of  them.  Just  then  the  cook  said 
dinner.  I  told  the  woman  that  they  might  eat  it  all,  as  my 
dinner  was  ready.  Well,  they  soon  cleaned  up  the  whole  mess, 
besides  some  bread  and  potatoes  we  had  to  spare. 


230 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

49.— INDIAN  CRICKET  DRIVE. 

I  was  on  a  three  days'  horseback  trip  in  the  wilderness, 
and  had  for  a  companion  the  Indian  called  "Egan  Jack,"  a 
trusty,  intelligent  buck  of  about  thirty  years  of  age.  We  were 
on  a  prospecting  or  exploring  trip  to  the  northwest  of  Deep 
Creek,  or  Ibapah  as  the  Indians  called  it.  At  one  place,  as  we 
came  out  of  a  canyon  onto  the  bench  land,  we  saw  quite  a  num- 
ber of  Indians  that  were  quite  busy,  some  digging1  trenches  and 
some  gathering  arms  full  of  the  tall  wheat  grass  that  grew  on 
the  flat  in  the  bottom  of  the  canyon.  I  asked  Jack  what  they 
were  doing.  He  said,  "Catching  crickets  for  bread."  "Well, 
we  will  go  and  see  how  they  do  it."  We  went,  and  saw  that 
they  had  dug  quite  a  number  of  trenches  about  a  foot  wide  and 
a  foot  deep  and  about  thirty  or  forty  feet  long,  and  around 
like  a  new  moon  with  the  horns  uphill. 

They  had  been  a  number  of  days.at  the  work,  but  were  now 
ready  for  their  cricket  drive,  having  five  or  six  of  the  trenches 
strung  across  the  bench,  the  end  of  each  trench  joined,  or  was 
very  close  to  the  end  of  another.  They  covered  these  with  a 
thin  layer  of  stiff  wheat  grass  straw,  for  what  purpose  I  did 
not  know  then,  but  I  thought  they  were  making  a  mistake, 
for  the  crickets  could  crawl  over  the  ditch  on  it,  but  I  must 
wait  and  see. 

As  it  was  getting  the  hottest  time  of  the  day,  and  there- 
fore the  best  time  for  the  drive,  they  were  soon  ready,  and 
probably  hurried  their  best  to  show  their  visitors  how  they 
done  it,  and  at  the  same  time  get  a  little  help.  Well,  there  was 
a  few  crickets  scattered  all  around,  but  were  more  of  them 
above  the  trenches  and  near  the  foothills.  But  I  thought  the/ 
were  going  to  a  great  deal  of  trouble  for  a  few  crickets,  why 
not  catch  them  by  hand,  we  will  see. 

These  trenches  ran  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  the  land 
sloping  to  the  west.  The  Indians,  men,  women  and  children, 
divided  into  two  parties,  one  going  to  the  north  end  and  the 
other  to  the  south  end,  all  carrying  a  bunch  of  grass  in  each 
hand.  They  went  single  file  towards  the  foothills,  and  mak- 
ing the  distance  between  the  parties  wider  than  the  length  of 
the  trenches.  When  they  had  gone  what  they  thought  far 
enough,  as  judged  by  the  scarcity  of  grass  left  by  the  black 
insects,  the  party  closed  in  and.  walking  back  and  forth  s \vintr- 
ing  their  grass  bunches  they  gradually  worked  down  toward 
the  trenches. 

We  followed  them  on  horseback  and  I  noticed  that  there 
were  but  very  few  crickets  left  behind.  As  they  went  down, 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST        231 

the  line  of  crickets  grew  thicker  and  thicker  till  the  ground 
ahead  of  the  drivers  was  as  black  as  coal  with  the  excited, 
tumbling  mass  of  crickets. 

A  cricket  when  disturbed  can  jump  about  one  foot  down 
hill  at  a  jump  and  but  half  that  distance  up  hill,  but  will  never 
jump  up  hill  if  it  has  any  show  to  avoid  it.  Well,  as  we  neared 
the  trenches  I  noticed  the  Indians  were  going  down  slower. 
Jack  said  this  was  to  give  the  crickets  time  to  crawl  through 
the  grass  into  the  trenches. 

When  all  had  been  driven  in  the  Indians  set  fire  to  the 
grass  they  had  in  their  hands  and  scattered  it  along  on  top 
of  that  they  had  over  the  trenches,  causing  a  big  blaze  and 
smoke,  which  soon  left  the  crickets  powerless  to  crawl  out, 
if  any  were  left  alive  when  the  grass  had  all  burned  up,  which 
did  not  take  many  minutes.  I  rode  along  the  line  and  in  some 
places  the  trenches  were  over  half  full  of  the  dead  and  legless 
crickets.  I  went  down  below  the  trenches  and  I  venture  to  say 
there  were  not  one  out  of  a  thousand  crickets  that  passed  those 
trenches. 

They  are  a  scary  and  excitable,  but  a  clumsy  insect,  that 
hardly  ever  when  excited  land  on  their  feet,  but  roll  over, 
then  turn  their  head  down  hill  and  jump  again.  If  not  mo- 
lested they  seldom  ever  jump,  but  travel  by  crawling.  Now  the 
bucks  and  children  had  done  their  part  and  were  sitting  around 
in  groups.  The  squaws  were  busy  gathering  up  the  game. 

They  had  large  conical  shaped  baskets;  some  of  them 
would  hold  over  two  bushels.  These  the  women  carry  on  their 
backs,  held  in  place  by  a  flat  band  either  over  their  foreheads 
or  about  the  shoulders.  Xow  here  is  what  I  saw  a  squaw  do- 
ing that  had  a  small  baby  strapped  to  a  board  or  a  willow 
frame,  which  she  carried  on  her  back  with  a  strap  over  her 
forehead : 

When  at  work  she  would  stand  or  lay  the  frame  and  kid 
where  she  could  see  it  at  any  time.  She  soon  had  a  large 
basket  as  full  as  she  could  crowd  with  crickets.  Laying  it 
down  near  the  kid,  she  took  a  smaller  basket  and  filled  it.  I 
should  jud<re  she  had  over  four  bushels  of  the  catch.  But 
wait,  the  Indians  were  leavinsr  for  their  camp  about  three  or 
four  miles  away.  This  squaw  sat  down  beside  the  larger 
basket,  put  the  band  over  her  ^houlders,  got  on  her  feet  with 
it,  then  took  the  strapped  kid  and  placed  him  on  top,  face  up, 
picked  up  the  other  basket  and  followed  her  lord  and  master, 
who  tramped  ahead  with  nothing  to  carrv  except  his  own  lazy 
carcass.  There  were  bushels  of  crickets  left  in  the  trenches, 
which  T  suppose  they  would  eather  later  in  the  day. 


232 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

Having-  seen  enough  there  we  rode  on  across  a  narrow  val- 
ley, and  in  the  foothills  came  to  a  large  camp  of  Indians,  the 
chief  of  whom  I  was  well  acquainted  with,  and  we  decided  to 
stay  all  night  w^th  them,  as  we  did  not  know  and  they  could 
not  inform  us  as  to  the  exact  location  of  the  band  we  wanted 
to  visit.  We  were  also  getting  hungry.  We  had  no  provisions 
of  our  own  left,  except  a  couple  of  rabbits  I  had  killed  on  the 
way. 

They  treated  us  fine  and  we  had  a  good  time  telling  arid 
hearing  the  news.  Jack  took  one  of  the  rabbits  and  put  it  to 
roast  on  the  fire,  the  other  he  gave  to  the  chief.  When  the 
rabbit  was  done  to  his  liking,  Jack  asked  the  chief  if  he  had 
any  bread';  he  nodded  and  called  in  a  low  voice  the  name  of 
his  squaw,  who  came  into  the  tent  at  once.  When  told  to 
bring  some  bread  she  went  but,  but  returned  immediately  -with 
a  cake  of  black  bread  about  two  inches  thick  and  ten  inches 
in  diameter,  which  she  handed  to  me.  I  thought  it  looked 
too  black  for  pine  nut  bread,  for  the  latter  has  a  yellow  cast 
and  this  was  decidedly  black.  Holding  the  bread  in  one  hand 
and  pointing  to  it  with  the  other.  I  asked  her  if  there  was  pine 
nuts  in  it.  "Yea,"  she  said  unconcernedly,  "is  there  crikets 
in  it?"  "Yes,  yes,"  smilingly,  "sure."  Well,  I  handed  the 
cake  to  Jack  to  divide  and  told  the  squaw  that  I  would  like 
some  pin?  nuts.  She  soon  brought  in  some  that  Avere  all 
mashed  up.  These  T  refused  and  asked  for  the  "whole"  pine 
nuts.  These  were  soon  brought  in  and  I  commenced  my  supper. 

The  chief  noticed  that  I  was  slow  at  shelling  the  nuts, 
so  he  called  a  young  squaw  that  came  in  with  a  basin  of  Avater. 
setting  it  down  near  the  door,  washed  her  hands  in  the  basin 
and  brought  in  a  flat  stone  about  one  foot  in  diameter  and 
one-half  inch  thick  and  another  about  eight  inches  long  and  a 
couple  of  inches  in  diameter.  Seating  herself  betAveen  Jack 
and  me,  she  proceeded  to  put  the  mill  in  motion.  She  placed  a 
couple  of  hands  full  of  nuts  on  the  flat  stone  arid  taking  the 
other  in  both  hands,  gave  it  a  rolling  motion  over  the  nuts 
Avhich  cracked  the  shells  so  they  fell  off  the  kernels,  Avhich 
she  rolled  off  on  a  piece  of  sack  as  clean  and  plump  as  I  could 
shell  them  one  at  a  time.  She  simply  shelled  thorn  much  faster 
than  both  of  us  could  eat  them.  Well,  AVC  had  a  good  supper 
and  breakfast,  but  Jack  ate  my  share  of  the  bread. 

When  the  crickets  are  dried  the  squaws  grind  them,  feath- 
ers and  all,  on  the  same  mil]  they  grind  the  pine  nuts  or  grass 
seed,  making  a  fine  flour  that  will  keep  a  long  time,  if  kept  dry. 
Jack  says  the  crickets  make  the  bread  good,  the  same  as  sugar 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 233 

used  by  the  white  woman  in  her  cakes.     Well,  I  am  willing 
to  take  his  word  for  it,  as  otherwise  I  might  squirm  a  little. 


50.—    TRAPPING  A  COYOTE. 

We  were  on  our  way  for  Carson  City  with  a  train  of 
four  wagons  with  three  yoke  of  oxen  each  and  teams  of  six 
mules  and  wagons  loaded  with  produce  to  sell  on  the  way  and 
bring  back  a  threshing  machine  and  other  farm  machinery,  also 
dry  goods,  etc.,  to  supply  our  little  store  at  Deep  Creek.  Our 
first  camp  was  at  Antelope  Springs,  where  we  arrived  just  be- 
fore dark.  After  watering  and  taking  care  of  the  animals, 
the  next  job  was  to  get  supper.  We  had  quite  a  variety  of 
foodstuff  along  and  we  soon  had  the  meal  ready,  consisting 
of  fried  bacon,  boiled  potatoes,  pancakes,  mollasses,  coffee, 
plenty  of  sugar,  a  few  pounds  of  fresh  butter,  but  no  milk  or 
cream  for  the  coffee. 

One  of  the  boys  said  that  butter  was  a  good  substitute  for 
cream  to  put  in  the  coffee,  and  proceeded  to  stir  some  in  his 
cup  of  coffee.  One  of  the  other  boys  cut  a  good  size  lump  and 
stirred  it  in  the  large  coffee  pot,  so  we  all  had  to  take  our 
coffee  that  way  or  go  without  it.  Well,  no  one  went  with- 
out his  coffee,  but  after  that,  when  the  butter  was  all  gone 
we  missed  it  much.  Well,  after  supper  was  over  the  plates, 
cups,  knives  and  forks  and  spoons  were  all  pushed  back  of 
each  boy,  thus  making  a  circle  around  the  fire,  as  we  had 
sat  that  way  to  eat  our  supper.  The  frying  pans,  coffee  pots 
and  skillets  were  left  close  to  the  fire,  where  they  had  been 
used.  Not  a  thing  was  washed  or  taken  care  of  and  you  can 
safely  bet  tliat  every  single  piece  of  the  cooking  and  eating 
utensils  were  as  greasy  as  grease  could  make  them. 

After  supper  we  sat  around  the  fire  talking  chaff  till  late, 
and  as  each  became  sleepy  went  to  bed;  but  firbt,  during  the 
evening,  we  appointed  one  of  the  boys  to  tend  to  the  cooking 
for  one  week.  This  one  was  the  first  to  crawl  out  and  very 
soon  found  out  that  the  whole  lot  of  cooking  and  eating  uten- 
sils had  taken  wings  or  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians.  He 
called  the  boys  and  at  tho  same  time  was  looking  for  tracks 
of  the  thief.  He  soon  found  a  tin  plate,  then  a  spoon,  or  cup, 
then  we  were  all  on  the  hunt  in  a  circle  from  the  fire,  when 
one  of  the  boys  that  had  gone  about  one  hundred  yards  from 
camp  yelled  out  that  he  had  found  one  of  the  thieves.  We  all 
ran  to  where  he  was  and  this  is  what  we  saw:  A.  coyote  with 
his  head  in  our  largest  coffee  pot  and  the  bail  over  his  head 
back  of  his  ears,  fast  enough,  but  still  trying  to  get  away.  He 


234 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 


•was  bumping  against  the  brush  at  every  step.     He  could  make 
no  progress. 

Well  to  make  a  long  story  short,  as  they  say,  we  had  lots 
of  fun  with  that  coyote  and  the  next  day  his  hide  was  tacked 
on  one  of  the  wagon  beds.  When  we  had  finished  our  search, 
back  from  the  fire  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  we 
took  count  of  the  recovered  articles  and  found  that  wre  were 
out  a  couple  of  forks  and  a  spoon.  That  was  a  cheap  tariff 
for  leaving1  dirty  dishes  where  the  coyotes  could  get  to  them 
and  a  lesson  I  venture  none  of  us  will  ever  forget. 


Pioneer  cottage.      Several  families  working:  together. 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST  235 


SEC.  II.— HUNTING  AND  HARVESTING. 
51.—    A  RABBIT  DRIVE. 

One  afternoon,  while  visiting  the  Indians,  I  heard  them 
talking  of  rabbits  and,  asking  them  what  it  was  all  about,  the 
chief  said  a  rabbit  hunt.  I  said  I  would  like  to  go  along  to 
see  how  they  done  it.  He  seemed  pleased  at  me  taking  so 
much  interest  and  said,  "Good!  Come  tomorrow  before  noon, 
as  we  want  to  start  the  drive  about  noon  and  it  is  quite  a  dis- 
tance to  the  place.  You  had  better  come  on  horseback." 

About  the  middle  of  the  forenoon  next  day  I  was  at  their 
camp.  Most  of  the  hunters  had  already  started.  Going  about 
three  or  four  miles,  we  came  to  the  place  selected  for  the 
<lrive — a  piece  of  sage  and  rabbit  brush  laud  about  a  mile  in 
diameter.  The  party  I  was  with  stopped,  when  we  saw  a  fire 
about  a  half  mile  to  our  right  and  soon  another  about  the  same 
distance  to  the  left,  and  then  we  could  see  the  smoke  rising  a 
mile  ahead  of  us.  My  party  soon  had  their  torches  at  work  and 
the  drive  was  on. 

Working  all  around  the  circle  and  towards  the  center  was 
a  continuous  ring  of  fire  and  smoke,  which  was  gradually  clos- 
ing in  arid  the  rabbits  were  being  crowded  together  thicker  and 
thicker.  Each  Indian,  squaw  and  pappose  had  a  stick  about 
four  feet  long,  the  only  weapon  they  carried.  A  small  boy  or 
gill  was  just  as  good  as  a  man,  arid  oh,  the  fun  of  it — all 
laughing  and  holler-ins:  and  making  as  much  noise  as  possible. 
The  rabbits  got  so  dazed  by  the  fire,  smoke  and  tumult  that 
they  simplv  could  not  run.  They  would  jump  a  row  jumps:  and 
sit  up  trying  to  see  a  way  out.  I  saw  dozens  of  them  stop 
within  reach  of  the  sticks  and  many  of  them  were  picked  up 
that  had  not  been  hit.  When  a  rabbit  was  seen  to  pass  out 
of  the  human  ring,  someone  would  follow  him  in  the  smoke 
and  put  his  body  in  one  of  the  piles  of  rabbits  they  had  made 
as  they  proceeded  towards  the  center,  for  they  could  not  carry 
much  of  the  game  and  do  their  work  at  the  same  time. 

When  the  drive  was  over  the  field  was  a  black,  fire-swept, 
but  still  smoking  patch  of  ground.  Talk  about  rabbits,  T  am 
sure  there  were  more  caught  on  that  drive  than  could  be 
packed  in  a  large  wagon  bed.  It  seems  that  the  black-tailed 
rabbits  gather  in  herds  or  colonies  and  these  places  are  noted 
by  the  Indians.  I  learned  afterwards  that  they  had  intended 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


to  attack  a  smaller  colony,  but  the  chief  wanted  his  white 
friends  to  see  a  good,  bis;  drive,  and  he  did,  and  I  \vas  well 
pleaded  to  be  present,  but  thought  it  w<i.-  U,kl;:,z  i.-c  ;';:uuh  th? 
advantage  of  poor  Mr.  Rabbit,  who  had  no  chance  to  save  his 
life. 

The  Indians  do  not  like  to  use  fire  for  a  drive,  as  it  takes 
years  for  the  brush  to  grow  up  again.  I  have  seen  a  drive 
where  no  fire  was  used,  but  grass  nets  about  two  and  one-half 
feet  hi:rh  and  two  inches  or  even  smaller  mesh.  A  sharp 
pointed  stick  a  few  inches  longer  than  the  width  of  the  net 
was  fastened  across  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  to  act  as  fence 
posts,  when  the  sharp  end  was  pressed  into  the  earth.  One 
buck  could  easily  carry  a  role  of  one  hundred  fifty  to  two 
hundred  yards  of  the  small  twisted  grass  twine  note.  Each 
large  family  usually  have  such  a  role  and  at  times,  when  living 
apart  from  other  families,  can  use  them  either  as  traps  or  to 
drive;  but  then,  these  are  only  small  catches. 

The  drive  I  witnessed  was  when  there  was  six  or  eight 
of  these  nets  together.  When  they  had  decided  just  where  to 
run  the  nets,  two  of  the  Indians  put  the  end  sticks  of  their 
nets  together  and  commenced  to  unroll  their  nets,  go:ng  in 
opposite  directions,  sticking  each  cross  stick  firmly  in  the 
ground  as  they  unrolled,  making  a  rabbit-proof  fence.  When 
the  first  two  had  placed  their  nets,  two  more  Indians  com- 
menced where  they  ended  and  continued  the  line  in  the  de- 
sired direction. 

I  noticed  that  when  they  were  through  stringing  their  nets 
in  a  kind  of  semicircle  form,  there  was  part  of  a  roll  of  nets 
not  unrolled  at  each  end.  These  ends,  when  thev  were  ready  to 
drive,  were  strung  out,  but  not  in  a  circle,  but  flaring  straight 
out  from  the  opening,  making  a  long  V-shaped  mouth  to  the 
field.  When  the  Indians  swung  across  this  mouth  they  began 
coming  in  slowly.  But  every  rabbit  that  was  started  went  into 
the  pen  and  kept  running  back  and  forth  to  find  a  place  to  get- 
through.  Vain  search,  for  they  were  trapped.  When  the  men 
had  reached  the  opening  of  the  circle  the  two  ends  of  the  net 
was  brought  in  and  strung  across  the  openiner,  this  making 
a  complete  enclosure.  Then  the  fun  began.  All  the  Indians  were 
inside  with  sticks,  or  bows  and  arrows,  picking  up  the  game. 
Sometimes  I  could  see  at  one  glance  five  or  six  rabbits  that 
were  entangled  in  the  netting.  If  the  Indians  were  engaged 
at  on  place  getting  the  ones  caught,  the  others  were  getting 
into  trouble  at  another  place. 

It  seemed  a  little  strange  to  me  that  when-  a  rabbit  run- 
ning alonsr  the  fence  would  see  a  man  ahead  of  him  he  would 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 237 

turn  and  run  across  the  circle  till  he  came  to  the  fence,  then 
run  alunu  it  till  he  saw  someone  ahead,  then  either  make  a 
•live  at  LLe  i'tnce  and  get  tangled,  or  take  another  run  across 
lots,  but  never  stopping  or  trying  to  hide  in  the  brush  in  the 
center,  but  seemed  to  know  they  were  trapped. 

Tt  took  the  Indians  over  a  half  day  to  get  as  many  as 
they  v.  anted.  There  were  many  left  when  they  took  up  the 
nets  arid  were  none  the  worse  off  by  their  little  scare; 

T  have  seen  the  black-tailed  rabbits  in  bands  so  thick  they 
ecu  1 -.I  not  all  set  in  the  shade  of  the  sagebrush  and  I  have  seen 
coyotes  where  there  seemed  to  b^  dozens  and  dozens  of  them 
in  the  middle  of  the  day,  standing  and  sitting  or  laying  down, 
and  when  approached  too  close,  moving  off  just  fast  enough 
to  keep  at  a  safe  distance,  all  of  them  with  full  bellies  and 
acted  very  sleepy.  I  asked  Jack  what  they  were  about,  he 
said.  "Thorn  coyotes  had  a  rabbit  drive  last  night  and  now 
they  are  resting  np  and  sleeping."  I  said,  '"'Jack,  do  you  want 
to  see  them  run?''  (Taking  my  pistol.)  "They  won't  run  far,'* 
said  In-..  At  the  crack  of  the  gun  one  tumbled  down,  the  others 
that  were  near  jumped  to  their  feet,  some  trotted  off  a  little 
distance,  others  merelv  glanced  around  and  walked  off  a  little 
way  and  squat  down  asrain. 


52.— MOUNTAIN  RAT,  FOOD  FOB  INDIANS. 

On  one  of  my  days  out  I  came  across  an  old  Indian  goinir 
home  with  his  day's  catch  of  rats.  He  had  a  large  sheet  iron 
camp  kottie  nearly  filled  with  them.  They  had  all  been  causrht 
the  night  before  by  dead  falls,  as  we  call  them,  which  con- 
sists of  tuo  sticks  about  three  and  a  half  or  four  inches  long 
fastener]  together  at  their  centers  bv  a  string  that  will  allow 
them  to  spread  apart  about  four  or  five  inches  in  the  shape  of 
the  letter  "H."  One  of  these,  with  any  convenient  flat  rock 
heavy  enough  to  smash  and  kill  a  rat.  is  one  dead  fall.  This 
•Indian  had  over  a  hundred  of  the  triggers  that  he  hadn't  used. 
but  said  he  had  set  the  most  of  them. 

His  plan  was  to  go  np  one  side  of  the  canyon,  setting  the 
traps  wherever  he  saw  the  sign  of  rats,  and  the  same  down  the 
other  side.  The  next  day,  taking  the  same  route,  gathering 
the  catch  and  resetting  the  traps.  The  rats  the  Indian  had  were 
six  to  eicht  inches  lone',  two  and  a  half  inches  wide  and  litilf 
an  inch  thick.  They  were  packed  as  close  as  he  could  pack 
them  in  the  kettle  and  wore  quite  heavv  for  the  old  man  to 
pack  to  camp,  so  I  carried  them  for  him.  At  his  camp  was 
where  T  first  saw  the  squaws  makine  rabbit  skin  robes.  This 
is  how  it  Avas  done: 


238 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

They  had  a  lot  of  twine,  that  had  been  mads  of  som3 
fiberous  bark  or  grass,  and  a  pile  of  rabbit  skins  that  had  been 
dried  and  then  rubbed  pliable.  But  it  must  have  beon  -lone 
with  care,  for  a  rabbit  skin  is  very  tender.  These  squaws  were 
not  making  a  new  robe,  but  patching  up  and  making  an  old 
one  larger.  The  robes  are  of  length  to  reach  from  the  neck 
to  about  the  middle  of  the  thighs,  say  about  three  or  four  feet 
long,  and  wide  enough  to  reach  around  the  body  at  the  shoul- 
ders. 

One  of  the  squaws  was  twisting  the  strips  of  skin  around 
a  twine  that  was  stretched  t°  ^w°  stakes,  placed  a  little  past 
the  length  of  the  robe,  and  as  she  proceeded  the  other  was  fol- 
lowing her  up  and  tying  that  fir  rope  thus  made  and  laid  along- 
side the  previous  one  close  together  at  about  every  four  inches. 
They  worked  back  and  forth  in  this  fashion  till  the  skins  were 
all  used  up.  There  was  a  strip  about  two  feet  wide  of  new 
robe  attached  to  the  old  one.  I  examined  it  and  found  that 
the  tie  strings  were  placed  in  a  straig'ht  line  across  the  robe, 
with  the  ends  of  the  ties  left  to  attach  more  robe  or  to  be  used 
to  tie  the  robe  together  as  wanted. 

When  hung  around  the  neck  the  person  so  clothed  can 
stand  in  a  hard  rain  or  snow  storm  and  not  one  drop  of  wet  will 
pass  tlrough  the  robe.  They  are  wind  and  rain  proof  and 
almost  cold  proof.  There  is  no  right  or  wrong  side,  as  both 
sides  are  just  the  same — one  solid  piece  of  fir  that  will  stand 
the  wear  of  years,  used  as  a  mattress  or  bed  covering  or  wind 
brake.  In  fact,  they  never  completely  wear  out. 

When  the  fur  at  any  place  gets  worn  off  it  is  replaced  with 
a  few  strands  of  new.  This  makes  an  old  robe  look  striped 
and  of  different  colors.  The  squaws  while  at  work  seemed  as 
happy  as  a  party  of  white  women  at  a  quilting  and  were  talk- 
ing and  laughing  just  as  fast.  After  spending  some  time  chat- 
ting and  smoking  with  the  old  man,  he  jjave  me  the  location 
of  another  family.  T  gave  him  a  little  tobacco  and  left  them 
much  r)l eased  with  mv  visit. 


53.-  THE  ANTELOPE  HUNT  OR  DRIVE. 

T  had  sent  word  to  the  old  chief  (White  Horse)  that  I 
would  make  him  a  visit  in  a  few  davs,  and  to  make  it  interest- 
ing to  me  he  planned  an  antelope  catch.  For  a  few  days  he- 
fore  I  came  the  squaws  and  bucks  were  busy  repairing  and  ex- 
tending the  flankinsr  arms  of  the  old  corral,  or  trap  pen,  which 
was  located  near  the  north  end  of  antelope  valley  and  about 
twenty  miles  northwest  of  Deep  Creek.  It  was  pretty  cold 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


weather,  but  no  snoAv  on  the  ground.  The  Indians  thought 
it  a  good  time  and  expected  a  good  catch. 

After  they  had  all  come  in  from  their  work  a  great  deal 
of  talking  and  planning  was  on  and  each  knew  just  what  part 
and  place  he  or  she  was  to  take.  By  daylight  all  Avere  ready 
for  the  start  and.  in  fact,  a  number  of  the  young  men  had  left 
early  in  the  evening  before  to  go  to  the  extreme  south  end 
of  the  ground  to  be  covered  and  about  twenty  miles  from  the 
pen.  They  were  to  spread  apart  across  the  valley,  travel  in  open 
order  back  to  the  north,  being  careful  that  not  one  of  the  ante- 
lope jumped  would  run,  except  in  a  northerly  direction. 

This  valley  has  a  good  many  hills  or  knolls  along  the 
base  of  the  mountains  and  a  few  of  them  scattered  more  to 
the  center  of  the  level  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  valley.  An 
antelope,  when  started  up.  will  always  run  directly  for  one  of 
these,  that  lay  opposite  from  where  he  gets  his  scare  from,  and 
they  run  from  hill  to  hill.  They  see  no  one  ahead  of  them 
but  the  party  behind  being  constantly  increased,  and  if  they 
undertake  to  pass  around  the  drivers  a  buck  or  squaw  is  sure 
to  raise  to  hi?  feet,  and  that  sends  them  off  to  the  center 
again. 

Thus  it  goes  till  they  come  to  the  line  between  the  outer 
ends  of  the  arms,  which,  there,  are  about  four  miles  apart, 
but  gradually  closing  in  as  they  get  nearer  the  pen.  The  arms 
or  leads  aie  started  at  the  extreme  ends  by  simply  prying  or 
pulling  up  a  large  sagebrush  and  standing  it  roots  up  on  the 
top  of  another  brush,  thus  making  a  tall,  black  object  visible 
for  miles.  The  standing  of  these  brush  were  at  first  some  ten 
to  twenty  feet  apart,  but  were  placed  more  and  more  near  to- 
gether the  nearer  towards  the  pen,  and  when  the  two  lines  came 
to  about  one  hundred  yard?  apart  they  were  built  so  the  buts 
of  the  brush  were  as  close  as  the  tops  would  allow  them  to  be 
joined  and  by  this  time  both  wings  had  swung  to  the  east  side 
of  "the  valley,  where  there  were  many  ravines  to  cross  and 
plenty  of  cedar  and  pine  to  use  for  fencing. 

There  were  many  turns  to  the  lane  thus  formed,  but  was 
getting  narrower  and  stronger  till  finally,  around  a  sharp  turn 
through  a  large,  thick  bunch  of  cedars,  the  game  were  in  the 
corral,  which  Avas  about  tAvo  hundred  feet  in  diameter  and  built 
strong  and  high  enough  to  withstand  the  charges  of  a  herd  of 
buffalo.  The  pine  and  cedar  trees  had  not  been  removed  from 
the  inside  of  the  pen,  and  not  many  from  the  runway,  for  a 
mil?  back. 

Well.  White  Horse  and  myself  rode  the  only  two  horses  in 
the  drive  and  AVC  went  to  about  half  the  distance  to  the  ends 


240 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

of  the  arms  and  wore  soon  back  as  fast  as  possible  on  the 
outside  to  take  advantage  of  the  bends  and  turns  and  to  try 
and  keep  abreast  of  the  drivers,  who  were  all  on  a  fast  run, 
yelling  like  a  pack  of  coyotes.  The  drive  came  to  an  end  with 
a  rush  and  everyone  working  desperately  closing  up  the  en- 
trance, a  few  small  children  appearing  on  the  wall  at  differ- 
ent point*  around  the  pen.  By  the  time  we  had  tied  our  horses 
and  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  wall  the  entrance  had  been  closed. 
Then  began  the  killing  of  as  many  as  were  wanted  that 
day,  the  killing  was  done  with  arrow  and  seldom  misled  JUOTV- 
ing  the  heart.  The  catch  was  about  twenty-five,  mostly  ill 
bucks  or  does,  there  being  only  five  or  six  yearlings  in  the 
bunch.  There  were  i'ive  or  six  bucks  killed  that  day  and  one  of 
which  had  tried  to  jump  the  fence,  but  got  entangled  in  the 
fenco  and  was  killed  by  having  his  throat  cut  with  a  knife. 
The  reason  they  v/ere  not  all  killed  in  one  day  was  to  give 
the  squaws  time  to  cut  up  in  thin  strips  the  flesh  and  dry  it  on 
a  rack  built  over  a  small  fire,  thus  curing  it  so  it  would  keep 
for  a  long  time  it'  kept  dry. 

The  next  morning  I  went  to  the  pen  with  some  of  the  In- 
dians and  found  that  there  had  been  left  three  cr  four  young 
men  to  guard  the  place  and  see  that  none  of  the  animals  broke 
through.  The  antelope  had  run  themselves  down  and  won-  hud- 
dled in  the  center  of  the  enclosure,  most  all  laying  down.  The 
Indians  soon  picked  out  five  or  six  of  the  largest,  which  were 
killed  and  soon  on  the  way  to  camp  to  be  made  into  jerked 
meat,  a?  it  was  called.  The  brains  are  seldom  eaten,  but  care- 
fully preserved  to  tan  the  hide  with,  by  spreading  them  all 
over  the  flesh  side  of  the  skin,  after  the  hair  has  been  removed, 
rolling  them  up  and  leaving  them  this  way  for  a  1V\v  'lavs. 
when  the  skins  may  be  washed  clean  and  rung  as  dry  as  pos- 
sible, then  stretched  and  pulled  and  rubbed  till  dry,  when  they 
are  soft,  white  and  pliable.  Then  they  are  ready  for  trade 
or  use. 

The  Indians  told  me  that  the  last  drive,  before  this  one 
at  this  place,  was  nearly  twelve  years  ago  and  the  old  men 
never  expected  to  see  another  at  this  place,  for  it  would  take 
many  vears  for  the  animals  to  increase  in  sufficient  numbers  to 
make  it  pav  to  drive.  These  drives  are  mostlv  in  the  desert 
vallevs,  Avhere  the  poor  horseless  natives  livo. 

I  have  been  with  n  number  of  hunting  parties  where  most 
of  the  hunters  had  horses.  The  last  one  was  ;i  f<-\v  ;nil<^  south 
of  where  the  drive  I  have  just  told  about.  There  were  ion  on 
liorsc^  r>nd  five  or  six  foot  men.  When  thev  arrived  at  the 
edge  of  the  hunting  ground  they  divided  into  parties,  one 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 241 

going  to  the  right  and  the  other  to  the  left  and  occasionally 
leaving  a  man.  and  so  spacing  them  apart  that  when  the  two 
ends  of  Die  line  -swung  around  they  formed  a  very  large  circle. 

We  could  see  Avhere  the  antelope  were  running  and  the 
plan  was  to  keep  them  in  the  circle  and  on  the  run  all  the  time 
and  not  alloAv  them  to  rest.  When  any  of  them  attempted  to 
pass  out  they  were  headed  off  and  turned  back  or  around  the 
circle.  We  could  not  see  an  antelope  halfway  across  the  cir- 
cle, but  could  see  the  dust  they  raised  and  the  direction  they 
were  traveling. 

When,  after  they  had  been  kept  running  back  and  forth 
till  they  were  very  tired,  a  man  would  chase  one  on  a  fast  run 
and  as  he  nearer!  another  man  would  stop  to  rest  his  horse 
and  watch  for  another  run.  The  second  man  could  run  his 
horse  alongside  the  antelope  easily,  which  I  did,  and  wished  I 
had  brought  my  lariat,  as  I  could  have  caught  him  easily,  but 
I  shot  him  when  at  a  distance  of  about  eight  or  ten  feet.  There 
were  only  three  killed  and  Jack  was  in  high  glee,  for  he  said 
to  the  other  Indians.  ''You  see,  it  takes  a  chief  to  get  the  ante- 
lope." One  was  killed  by  him,  one  by  "Antelope  Jake,"  as 
he  was  called,  a  young  chief,  and  one  by  mvself. 


54.—    PINE-NUT  HAEVEST. 

Jack  and  I  were  taking  a  scouting  trip  high  up  in  the  Shell 
Creek  range  of  mountains,  when  we  came  across  an  Indian  who, 
with  his  sfluaw  and  children,  were  busily  engaged  gathering 
pine-nuts.  The  man  had  a  long  pole  with  a  strong  hook  fastened 
to  one  end.  He  would  reach  up  in  the  tree  to  the  pine  cones, 
hook  the  crook  around  the  branch  on  which  they  hung  and 
pull  branch  and  all  down,  the  squaw  and  children  carrying 
them  to  a  place  and  piling  them  up  in  a  heap.  When  they 
had  collected  as  many  as  they  wanted  that  day,  the  buck  had 
finished  his  part  of  the  work  and  could  pass  the  rest  of  the 
time  sleeping  or  hunting  squirrels  just  as  he  pleased. 

The  squaws  and  children  gathered  a  little  dry  brush,  which 
Avssr  thrown  loosely  over  the  pile  of  cones  and  set  fire  to.  The 
cones  are  thickly  covered  all  over  with  pitch,  for  this  reason 
they  make  a  hot  fire,  the  squaw  watching  and  stirring  it  up  ai 
needed  to  keep  the  nuts  from  burning,  as  all  she  wants  is  to 
burn  the  pitch  off.  When  this  is  done  she  rakes  them  back 
from  +he  fire  as  a  man  would  do  when  drawing  charcoal. 

When  the  pitch  was  all  burned  off  the  burs,  or  cones,  the 
squaw  spreads  a  blanket  down  close  to  the  pile,  then  taking 
up  one  cone  at  a  time,  would  press  them  end  ways  between 


242 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

her  hands,  which  opens  the  leaves,  under  which  there  were  two 
ruts  to  every  leaf.  Then  shaking  the  cone  over  the  blanket  the 
nuts  Avould  all  fall  out  as  clean  as  you  please. 

We  stayed  with  them  to  see  the  finish,  which  was  not  so 
\ery  long1.  When  the  nuts  had  all  been  cleaned  from  the  cones 
they  Avere  put  in  a  large  basket  that  would  hold  over  two 
bushels  and  was  nearly  full,  the  squaw  carrying  that  on  her 
back  to  a  place  where  they  were  to  be  cached  and  left  till 
wanted.  These  caches  Avere  placed  all  through  the  pine-nut 
grove  to  save  carrying  them  too  far  and  save  time,  for  the 
harvest  does-  not  last  long,  for  a  heavy  frost  Avill  cause  the 
cones  to  open  and  the  nuts  drop  to  the  ground,  Avhere  the  squir- 
rels and  coyotes  feast  on  them. 

A.  pine-nut  cone  looks  like  a  green  pineapple,  but  some 
smaller  and  covered  Avith  pitch,  that  protects  them  from  in- 
sects and  squirrels.  The  Indians  put  them  in  caches  holding 
about  ten  bushels  or  less.  •, 

Once  on  a  time  \vhen  Jack  and  I  were  passing  along  a 
range  Avhere  there  Avere  a  good  many  pine-nut  trees,  and  as 
AVO  were  getting  hungry  I  asked  him  if  he  thought  there  Avas 
any  nuts  cached  there.  He  said  he  didn't  think  they  Avere  all 
cleaned  out  and  would  look  around.  He  Avas  not  long  in  lo- 
cating- one,  and  pushing  the  large  stick  of  wood  aside  that 
was  placed  on  top  of  the  small  raise  in  Avhich  the  nuts  Avere 
to  be  found,  he  moved  off  about  six  inches  of  dirt  and  found 
a  tight  layer  of  cedar  bark  about  tAvo  inches  thick.  He  dug  a 
hole  through  this  big  enough  to  pass  his  arm  through,  Avhieh' 
he  did,  and  pulled  out  a  handful  of  very  fine  nuts,  as  fresh 
a^  Avhen  first  put  in. 

Well,  Ave  took  about  two  gallons,  covered  and  left  the 
cache  as  we  found  it.  minus  the  few  nuts  taken. 

55.—    HUNTING  FOR  WATER. 

In  traveling  through  Go-Shtite  Valley  (later  called  FloAver 
Lake  Valley),  AVC  Avere  getting  very  thirsty,  having  been  trav- 
eling five  or  six  hours  from  the  last  Avater  hole  and  it  being 
a  dry  hot  and  sultry  day  I  and  the  horses  needed  water. 
The  nearest  I  kneAv  of  Avas  about  twelve  miles  distance  and 
that  not  in  the  direction  of  our  travel,  and  our  one  canteen 
being  empty,  I  thought  Ave  Avould  have  to  change  our  course 
to  get  Avater.  I  asked  Jack,  "HoAV  far  to  Avater  this  way." 
pointing  the  Avay  I  Avanted  to  go.  He  said,  "I  do  not  know, 
maybe  no  Avater.  Well,  are  you  thirsty?"  "Yes.-'  "\Vell 
then,  think  fast  and  locate  Avater  or  Indian  no  better  than 
Avhite  man." 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


V "t  were  about  the  middle  of  the  valley,  facing  south- 
easterly, and  were  among  the  sand-dunes,  which  spread  a  few 
miles  in  width  and  many  miles  in  length  through  the  valley.  We 
had  not  gone  far  after  this  talk  when  Jack  said,  "Wait," 
and  pointing  to  some  rat  or  gopher  holes  in  the  side  of  the 
sand-dunes,  said,  ''They  must  have  water,  I  see."  Dismount- 
ing, he  picked  a  place  between  the  dunes  and  with  his  hands 
scraped  off  the  loose  sand  to  a  depth  of  about  six  or  eight 
inches  to  water.  He  then  made  the  hole  nearly  a  foot  deeper 
and  a  foot  wide,  which  quickly  filled  to  the  water  level.  Wait- 
ing for  it  to  settle,  we  then  tasted  it  and  found  it  to  be  a  little 
brackish,  but  still  nice  and  cool  and  quite  drinkable.  Having 
drank  what  we  wanted,  filling  the  canteen,  we  let  the  horses 
have  their  turn.  They  got  some,  but  soon  caved  the  sand  in 
and  made  the  water  so  riley  they  would  drink  no  more. 

Jack  filled  the  hole  up  and  leveled  the  sand  over  it  as  it 
was  before  and  said  if  he  did  not  do  it  there  could  not  be 
any  more  water  ever  found  anywhere  near  there  (Superstition,), 
and  I  think  he  actually  believed  Avhat  he  said.  _ 

Towards  evening  Ave  were  traveling  along  the  foothills,  go- 
ing in  the  direction  of  where  we  knew  there  was  a  water  hole 
five  or  six  miles  distance.  Where  we  were  the  limestone  forma- 
tion lay  very  flat  and  in  some  places  was  washed  clean  of  ail 
soil  for  large  areas  and  but  few  cracks  or  breaks  all  along  the 
lower  edge  of  these  limestone  beds. 

I  noticed  that  the  grass  and  brush  was  thicker  and  stronger 
than  farther  down.  I  asked  Jack  if  he  thought  we  could  get 
water  near  the  edge  by  digging.  "No,"  he  said,  "too  deep; 
but  wait,  see  the  coyote  tracks.  They  get  water  somewhere 
close  to  here."  So  hunting  around  a  while  I  got  off  my 
horse  and  sat  on  a  little  raise  watching  Jack.  He  zig-zagged 
around  till  he  had  worked  off  about  one  hundred  yards  from 
me.  I  went  to  where  he  was  standing  and  said,  "Did  you 
find  water?"  he  said,  smiling;  "Come  and  see,"  leading  the 
way  to  the  bottom  of  a  large  saucer  shaped  swag,  and  what  I 
saw  wa«  an  oblong  hole  about  four  feet  across  the  narrowest 
way  and  about  twelve  feet  deep.  There  was  eisrht  or  nine  feet 
of  water  in  it  and  so  clear  that  we  could  see  the  bottom  and 
sides  very  plainly  and  all  the  walls  Avere  solid  limestone. 

The  water  was  cold  and  not  a  bit  brackish,  so  I  proposed 
to  camp  there  that  night.  Jack  said.  "Yes,"  for  he  Avas  very 
tired:  but  said.  "We  must  go  a  little  wav  off  so  the  Avild  ani- 
mals can  come  and  drink."  HOAV  Avere  AVC  to  Avater  the  horses 
here?  They  could  not  reach  it  and  if  one  fell  in,  it  would  be 
good-by.  as  Ave  could  never  get  him  out.  except  in  pieces.  Weil, 


244 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

we  watered  the  horses  and  gave  them  all  they  wanted  by  using 
my  hat  for  a  bucket. 

I  noticed  that  all  around  the  hole  the  surface  was  slant- 
ing towards  it,  except  at  one  point  where,  when  the  hole  was 
full  and  more  rain  or  snow  water  came  to  it,  it  could  flow 
on  down  to  the  sand  valley  below. 

The  next  day  we,  having  crossed  the  summit  of  the  desert 
range  of  mountains,  about  noon,  as  we  were  riding  along  the 
base  of  the  mountain  or  about  half  a  mile  above  the  white 
alkali  desert  (the  most  desolate  and  dreary  country  I  ever  saw) 
seeing  a  poor,  pretty  near  hairless  coyote.  I  asked  Jack  what 
he  was  doing  so  far  from  water.  "Maybe  not  far,"  he  said.  "We 
will  try  and  find  his  drinking  hole."  So  in  riding  along  he 
pointed  up  the  mountain  a  little  way  and  farther  along  our 
way  to  where  the  limestone  ledges  dipped  at  a  very  steep  angle 
into  the  mountains,  he  said,  "We  will  go  along  that  way." 

We  came  to  a  place  where  a  thick  ledg'e  about  thirty  feet 
high  hung  over  a  thinner  one  that  was  about  eight  or  ten  feet 
high  and  from  two  to  six  feet  from  the  higher  one,  that  hung 
completely  over  it.  Jack  went  to  one  end  of  the  ledge,  or  to 
where  he  could  get  on  top  of  the  smaller  ledge,  gave  a  whoop 
acd  said,  "Plenty  of  water."  I  was  soon  at  his  side  and  saw 
a  pool  of  clear  water  (no  scum  or  dirt)  that  extended  from 
ledge  to  ledge  and  some  thirty  feet  long.  At  the  ends  the  bot- 
tom sloped  toward  the  center,  at  which  place  there  was  no 
way  to  judge  the  depth,  as  the  bottom  could  be  seen  only  a 
few  feet  from  the  ends,  but  there  was  thousands  of  gallons  of 
water  held  there,  as  good,  too,  as  any  you  ever  tasted.  But 
let  me  tell  yon,  a  person  might  ride  or  walk  within  six  feet 
of  it  and  still  think  it  was  miles,  and  hot  ones,  to  the  nearest 
water.  A  tenderfoot  would  die  of  thirst  leaning  his  back 
against  the  four-foot  wall  that  separated  him  from  enough 
water  to  supply  an  army.  One  could  not  see  the  least  sign 
of  water,  every  spot  all  around  being  sunburned  and  browned. 

We,  of  course,  camped  a  little  way  beyond  after  watering 
the  horses  the  same  as  before  (in  mv  hat).  I  would  depend 
on  finding  water  at  this  place  any  time  of  the  year,  as  there 
was  now  plenty,  and  it  was  in  the  fall  that  we  were  there 
and  there  could  not  be  much  lost  by  evaporation,  and  it 
was  replenished  by  every  rainstorm,  the  water  draining  in  at 
the  ends.  The  hole  or  crevasse  would  contan  a  good  many 
thousands  of  gallons  more  before  running  over,  so  I  think  it 
safe  to  say  that  there  was  alwavs  plenty  of  water  there. 

When  we  were  traveling  in  the  direction  of  the  sink  of  Deep 
Creek — that  was  about  fifteen  miles  awav — T  knew  of  no 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 245 

water  nearer  in  that  direction,  but  knew  of  a  small  spring  off 
to  the  right  some  five  or  six  miles  out  of  our  way.  Jack  asked 
me  for  a  drink  out  of  the  canteen.  "There  is  only  about  half 
a  pint  in  it,"  I  said,  shaking  it.  "we  had  better  wait  as  long 
as  we  can  before  drinking  it  all."  He  said  he  had  waited  a 
long  time  and  thought  the  water  was  better  now  than  it  would 
be  when  it  got  warmer,  so  it  soon  vanished. 

After  going  a  few  miles  farther  and  still  thirsty  I  asked 
Jack  if  he  was  afoot  and  very  thirsty  which  way  he  would  go 
for  water,  trying  to  have  him  judge  which  way  lay  the  closest. 
He  stopped,  and  looking  around,  said  his  mother,  when  he  was 
a  little  boy,  had  camped  somewhere  near  where  we  were  and 
when  she  went  for  water  it  was  to  one  of  the  mounds  that  we 
could  see  scattered  in  the  edge  of  the  desert.  So  selecting  a 
rather  large  one,  about  half  a  mile  to  one  side,  we  rode  to  it. 
Jack  got  off  his  horse  and  made  a  complete  circuit  of  it  and 
said,  "No  water,  but  plenty  coyote  signs."  I  said,  "You  did 
not  go  over  the  top  of  the  hill?"  "No,"  he  said,  "wait,  I  go." 
He  had  not  reached  the  top  when  he  gave  a  yell  and  I  knew 
he  had  found  a  water  hole. 

On  going  up  I  found  it  to  be  about  two  by  six  and  about 
eight  or  nine  feet  deep,  with  about  three  feet  of  clear  water 
in  it,  but  hard  to  get  at  without  a  rope  and  bucket,  but  we 
managed  to  sink  the  canteen  in  it  by  tying  a  small  stone  to 
one  side.  We  had  a  good  drink  and  with  a  refilled  canteen  went 
on  our  journey. 


56.— "SQUAWS  CATCHING  GROUND  MOLES." 

The  ground  squirrel,  or  large  Avhite  bellied  mole  or  gopher, 
are  very  numerous  in  some  places  on  the  bench  lands  along  the 
mountains.  One  day.  while  taking  a  little  exercise  with  Mr. 
Muneey,  the  telegraph  operator,  we  rode  along  the  foothills. 
When  we  came  to  the  edge  of  fifteen-mile  Creek  Hollow  and 
were  going  down  to  the  creek  we  came  to  a  ditch  about  eighteen 
inches  wide  and  six  or  seven  inches  of  water  running,  with 
a  good  ripple,  to  our  risht.  the  mountains  being  to  the  left. 
Miiucey  said.  "Who  in  h — 1  done  this.  This  water  is  running 
up  hill."  And  so  it  appeared  to  be.  "Well,  let  us  follow 
it  and  see  where  it  goes  to." 

We  followed  .along  the  ditch  until  it  came  out  onto  the 
flat,  where  there  was  a  division,  making  two  streams.  A  little 
lower  they  were  again  divided.  Then  we  could  see  about 
eight  or  ten  squaws  very  busy,  each  with  a  stout  stick,  digging 
a  trench  and  leading  the  water  to  a  gopher  hole.  The  gopher 


246 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

would  soon  make  his  appearance  in  a  half-drowned  state,  get 
a  rap  on  the  head,  then  put  in  the  sack  at  the  back  of  the 
squaw,  who  would  then  turn  the  water  into  the  next  nearest 
hole,  with  the  same  result. 

All  of  the  squaws  were  hard  at  work  the  same  way,  mak- 
ing a  very  clean  job  of  it,  and  very  few  would  be  left  for  a 
future  drowning  out.  Muncey  said  he  was  going  to  time  that 
young  squaAV.  We  saw  her  divide  her  part  of  the  water  in 
two  streams,  thus  running  it  in  two  holes  at  the  same  time. 
Sometimes  she  would  have  three  or  four  streams  and  then 
again  but  one,  and  according  to  Muncey 's  time  she  had  caught 
between  twenty-five  and  thirty  in  the  half  hour. 

When  we  left  them  some  of  the  squaws  had  over  a  half 
bushd  in  their  sacks  and  quite  a  large  field  to  go  over  yet. 
It  would  take  a  number  of  days  to  finish  the  job. 

These  rodents  are  skinned,  gutter,  then  dried  the  same  as 
beef,  only  they  are  dried  whole,  no  bones  being  removed.  Of 
course,  they  are  also  eaten  fresh  and  stewed  with  Indian  pota- 
tos  and  segos.  I  most  fancy  I  could  stomach  to  eat  one.  It's 
all  in  the  way  we  were  brought  up.  But  I  don't  think  I  would 
starve  to  death  if  I  could  find  a  place  where  there  was  water 
and  plenty  of  gophers,  or  any  other  animal  I  could  drowned  out, 
even  a  pole  cat  would  save  a  man's  life  for  a  week  or  more. 
But  I  don't  Avant  to  be  caught  wanting  to  try  either. 

Making  Fire  With  a  Stick. — On  one  of  my  trip&  with  a 
comrade  Ave  camped  for  the  night  just  before  sundown  and  soon 
found  out  that  we  had  no  matches  that  were  dry  enough  to 
light  a  fire  with.  That  did  not  put  us  out  much  and  \ve  did 
not  worry  a  bit,  for  we  could  soon  make  fire  with  our  pistols, 
but  just  before  Ave  were  ready  to  do  it  an  Indian  came  up 
and  squat  doAvn  close  to  the  little  pile  of  wood  AVC  had  col- 
lected. 

Then  the  thought  struck  me  that  I  \vould  see  if  an  Indian 
was  ahvays  prepared  to  make  i\  fire,  so  I  said  to  him,  "Make 
a  good  fire  and  I  will  give  you  something  to  eat."  He  jumped 
up  and  said,  "Give  me  Avhite  fire  stick."  (Matches.)  I  told 
him,  "No,  they  are  all  Avet  and  no  account,  and  Indian  no  good 
either  if  he  could  not  make  fire."  He  gave  a  grunt  and  pro- 
ceeded to  get  busy. 

He  took  a  stick  about  eighteen  inches  long  and  the  thick- 
ness of  an  arroAv  out  of  the  quiver  he  carried  his  arrows  in 
and  another  flat  stick  about  six  inches  long,  one-half  inch 
thick  and  three-quarters  to  one  inch  Avide,  there  being  four  or 
five  counter-sunk  holes  in  the  flat  piece  about  one-fourth  inch 
deep.  After  rubbing  some  dry  cedar  bark  Avith  his  hands  till 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 247 

it  was  very  fine,  he  placed  the  flat  stick  on  the  ground  and 
one  end  of  the  long-  stick,  which  was  at  one  end  a  little  smaller, 
and  putting-  the  largest  end  in  one  of  the  counter-sunk  holes, 
placed  his  hands  together  around  the  top  of  the  stick,  which  he 
made  to  turn  around  back  and  forth  very  fast.  As  he  Avorked 
his  hands  this  way,  at  the  same  time  pressing  doAvn  all  he 
could,  it  caused  his  hands  to  work  down  on  the  stick  and  he 
had  to  place  them  at  the  top  very  often.  In  about  twelve 
or  fifteen  minutes  he  had  a  few  tiny  sparks  of  fire  he  had 
made  with  the  sticks,  burning  the  fine  ground  bark. 

After  that  it  was  easy,  but  when  the  fire  was  lighted  Mr. 
Indian  was  in  a  very  sweaty  condition.  We  did  not  begrudge 
him  his  supper,  as  we  thought  he  had  earned  it  and  he  seemed 
pleased  to  get  it  that  way.  I  have  seen  an  Indian  make  fire  by 
simply  rubbing  t\vo  sticks  together.  This  plan  takes  longer  a-id 
harder  work. 


248  PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


SEC.  Ill— HARD  EXPERIENCES. 
57.— SAVED   BY   A   RABBIT. 

This  was  told  me  by  one  of  the  Pony  Express  riders  whose 
ride  Avas  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Rush  Valley.  He  passed  the 
point  of  the  mountain  eighteen  or  twenty  miles  south  of  Salt 
Lake  City,  but  as  there  was  a  heavy  snowstorm  raging  he  could 
not  tell  which  way  he  was  traveling.  He  knew  that  he  had 
gone  far  enough  to  bring  him  to  the  river,  if  he  had  kept  the 
right  road.  He  went  on  till  himself  and  pony  were  both  about 
give  out,  then  seeing  no  signs  of  a  break  in  the  storm,  got 
off  the  pony  to  give  both  of  them  a  little  rest.  The  snow  was 
quite  deep  and  drifting. 

Curling  up  beside  a  sagebrush  he  soon  was  sound  asleep. 
He  did  not  know  just  how  long  he  had  slept,  but  he  did  know 
that  some  animal  had  jumped  across  his  face,  that  instantly 
brought  him  to  his  senses,  and  scrambling  to  his  feet  saw  the 
rabbit  that  had  awakened  him. 

He  found  that  he  was  very  numb  and  cold  and  had  a 
time  in  getting  blood  circulation  through  arms  and  legs.  His 
pony  was  standing  with  his  head  down  and  back  to  the  storm, 
shivering  like  a  man  with  the  ague.  He  finally  started  again 
and  after  some  time  found  a  light.  Going  up  to  it  he  found 
that  it  shown  out  of  the  window  of  a  farmhouse,  the  owner 
of  which  had  just  got  up  and  started  the  morning  fire. 

Calling  the  man  to  the  door,  he  inquired  the  way  he  should 
go  to  get  on  the  right  trail  again.  The  man  said,  "Straight 
ahead."  "Well,  if  I  should  go  straight  ahead  I  would  ride 
through  your  door  and  as  I  have  been  riding  all  night  I  am 
very  cold  and  would  like  to  get  warm  by  your  fire  and  have 
a  cup  of  coffee." 

Well,  after  getting  both  and  feed  for  the  pony  he  went 
on  and  got  through  all  right.  The  place  where  he  found  him- 
self to  be  was  close  in  the  northeast  corner  of  Utah  Valley 
and  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  rabbit  he  was  satisfied  he  would 
have  gone  to  his  last  sleep. 


58.— LOST  AND  FOUND,  OR  RIDING  IN  A  CIRCLE. 

Another  pony  express  rider  on  the  Salt  Lake  ride  to  Rush 
Valley  made  Cedar  Fort    (Fort   Crittendenl.  in  Cedar  Valley. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 249 

Jt  Avas  snowing  to  beat  the  band.  He  got  his  next  pony  and 
started  up  the  long  slope  toward  Rush  Valley,  his  home  sta- 
tion. It  was  still  snowing  and  blowing  and  it  was  impossible 
to  see  the  road  or  any  object  to  get  his  location,  but  finally 
it  seemed  that  he  was  going  down  hill.  He  thought  he  had 
passed  the  summit  and  was  now  in  Rush  Valley,  so  hurried 
up  the  pony  a  little  faster,  but  after  a  couple  of  hours  of  this 
he  could  not  discover  any  familiar  ground,  so  then  he  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  he  was  lost,  not  even  knowing  in  which 
valley  he  was. 

It  was  too  cold  to  stop;  he  must  keep  moving.  Which 
way'/  Why  go  straight  ahead  for  sure1?  It  would  take  him 
somewhere,  so  he  kept  going  supposedly  in  a  straight  line. 
Just  about  daylight  he  discovered  a  light.  Going  towards  it 
he  soon  saw  plenty  of  lights  and  then  some  buildings  that 
he  recognized  as  belonging  to  Cedar  Fort,  the  place  he  had 
left  the  evening  before.  He  had  made  a  complete  circle  around 
the  valley.  After  eating  a  lunch  and  taking  a  fresh  pony  he 
made  it  through  all  right,  for  the  storm  had  passed. 


59.— AROUND  A  BUSH  ALL  NIGHT. 

I  left  Ruby  Valley  station  after  breakfast.  I  was  travel- 
ing west  and  with  no  companion  except  my  pony.  All  went 
well  and  I  arrived  at  Diamond  Springs  about  4  p.  m.,  where  I 
rested.  Just  after  sundown  I  thought  I  would  go  to  the  next 
station,  about  twenty-five  miles  distance,  from  which  I  could 
next  day  finish  my  west  trip  and  get  back  to  Diamond  Springs. 

I  had  not  traveled  more  than  a  couple  of  miles  before  it 
began  to  snow,  and  so  fast  that  I  could  not  see  twenty-five 
yards  in  any  direction,  and  soon  the  snow  was  so  deep  and 
it  was  so  dark  that  every  direction  from  where  I  was  seemed 
to  be  up  hill.  After  going  far  enough  to  take  me  across  the 
valley  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  I  was  off  the  right  trail 
and  no  need  to  go  further  till  I  could  see  some  landmark  to  go  by. 

It  had  turned  very  cold  and  I  was  quite  wet,  there  was 
nothing  to  make  a  fire  of.  I  was  someAvhere  in  Moon  Shine 
Valley,  as  it  is  called,  on  account  of  its  Avhite  soil  and  Arery  short 
shad-scale  greece  Avood  brush,  which  makes  it  appear  as  if 
the  moon  or  sun  Avas  shining  upon  it  when  there  is  no  moon 
or  sun  visible. 

I  needed  rest,  so  did  the  pony,  but  how  could  I  get  rest 
and  not  freeze.  I  got  off  the  pony,  made  a  loop  in  the  end 
of  my  riding  rope,  put  this  around  the  stoutest  bush  I  could 
find,  took  hold  of  the  pony's  tail,  driving  him  round  and  round. 


250 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

When  I  would  get  a  little  warmer  by  this  exercise  I  would  squat 
clown  a  few  minutes,  but  the  cold  would  soon  set  the  pony  to 
shivering  (me,  too),  and  then  round  and  round  again.  Oh! 
What  a  night  and  would  it  ever  end?  I  had  hard  work  to 
keep  from  laying  down  and  going  to  sleep.  Weil,  if  I  had — 
but  I  didn't. 

Just  about  daylight  I  saw  a  little  blue  sky  right  up  in  the 
center  of  my  circle  and  after  a  little  while  a  number  of  clear 
places.  I  was  now  on  the  pony  riding  around  the  bush,  but 
watching  at  all  points  for  a  view  of  the  mountains.  Finally, 
just  before  sunrise  I  located  east  by  the  light  and  of  course  I 
then  knew  Avhich  way  to  look  for  the  mountains. 

'Very  soon  after  this  the  clouds  broke  away  and  I  had  a 
full  view  of  the  range  on  the  west  side  and  found  that  I  was 
some  five  miles  to  the  south  of  the  trail  and  two  or  three 
from  the  west  side  of  the  valley.  The  first  thing  to  do  was 
to  get  to  the  trail,  which  I  did  by  a  straight  line  to  the  foot 
of  the  mountains.  I  could  not  see  the  road  here,  but  that  did 
not  worry  me,  I  knew  the  mountains. 

A.  few  years  after  that  I  was  crossing  this  same  valley 
with  a  few  others,  when  one  of  them  said,  "See  that  lone  young 
mountain  way  out  there  in  the  middle  of  the  valley,  I  would 
like  to  go  on  top  of  it  to  see  what  it  is  made  of."  And  he  said, 
"Did  you  ever  visit  it?"  I  said,  "I  may  have  rode  around  it, 
but  I  certainly  did  not  go  to  the  top."  ''Well,  if  you  rode 
around  it  you  certainly  know  if  it  is  a  limestone  or  granite 
knob."  "No."  T  told  him  of  my  night  around  a  bush.  That 
explained  why  T  did  not  know. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST  251 


SEC.  IV.— INDIAN  CRUELTIES  IN  PEACE  AND  WAR. 
60.— THE   OLD  MAN  LEFT  TO  DIE. 

There  is  a  little  spring  of  very  brackish  and  warm  water 
about  a  mile  north  of  Fish  Spring  station  and  a  few  rods  below 
the  road.  Between  this  spring  and  the  road  the  Indians  had 
selected  as  the  place  to  leave  a  very  old  man  to  die.  He 
Avas  totally  blind  and  very  poor,  hardly  any  flesh  on  his  bones. 
HP  Avas  clad  with  only  a  very  old  and  small  strip  of  rabbit 
skin  robe  hung  about  his  neck. 

The  Indians  had  gathered  some  sagebrush  and  made  a  small 
semi-circle  about  two  feet  high.  He  was  led  to  the  spring  and 
back  to  the  circle  and  left  to  die  of  starvation.  Father  heard 
of  this  from  one  of  the  stage  drivers  and  the  first  time  he 
passed  that  Avay  was  prepared  to  supply  the  old  man  with 
food  and  blankets.  He  told  the  driver  to  drive  out  of  the 
road  to  the  old  man's  camp. 

When  they  arrived  there  the  old  man  was  down  to  the 
spring  Avith  his  hands  doA\n  in  the  Avater,  Avhich  was  liter- 
ally alive  with  fish  that  Avere  about  tAvo  inches  in  length.  When 
he  could  feel  one  of  them  touch  the  inside  of  his  hands  he  AArould 
grab  them  and  immediately  eat  them.  That  was  the  only  way 
of  keeping  himself  alive. 

Father  rai?ed  him  from  the  spring  and  tried  to  make  him 
understand  that  he  would  give  him  something  to  eat  and  a 
blanket  to  keep  him  warm.  But  he  soon  found  that  the  old 
man  Avas  very  deaf  and  did  not  seem  to  understand  a  Avord. 
Father  got  him  back  to  his  camp,  gave  him  enough  food  to 
last  several  days,  also  a  gallon  can  of  Avater,  placed  a  good 
neAV  blanket  around  him  and  left  the  old  man  eating  A-ery 
sparingly  of  the  food,  as  if  to  make  it  last  as  long  as  possible. 

Father  Avent  on  his  Avay  Avest,  but  left  word  Avith  the 
stage  driA'er  to  bring  food  for  him  after  that  every  time  he 
passed  that  Avay.  On  his  return  trip,  Avhen  he  met  the  driver 
he  asked  him  about  the  old  man.  He  said,  "He  is  still  alive, 
but  the  blanket,  water  can  and  grub  Avas  gone  the  first  time 
I  passed  there.  1  have  left  him  food  eA-ery  trip.  He  seems 
to  be  some  stronger  than  \vhen  AVB  first  saAv  him. 

Father  got  another  blanket,  more  food  and  a  Avater  can, 
and  Avhen  he  arrived  at  that  place  found  the  old  man  sound 


252 PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

asleep,  curled  up  about  as  a  dog  would  for  a  nap,  and  getting  him 
awake  and  placing  the  bread  in  one  hand  and  the  other 
on  the  can  of  water  with  the  blanket  around  him  left  him 
to  himself  again. 

Father  was  planning  to  have  the  old  man  moved  near  the 
station,  where  he  could  be  fed  at  regular  times  and  provided 
with  more  shelter  and  clothing  and  with  means  of  having  a 
fire  when  necessary,  as  the  weather  was  getting  quite  cold. 
Too  late,  for  on  his  next  trip  out  he  learned  that  the  old 
Indian  had  been  taken  away  and  everything  that  had  been 
given  him  and  even  the  small  semi-circle  wind-brake  had  been 
burued. 

Father's  generosity  had  not  been  appreciated  by  the  old 
man's  relatives,  or  the  band  of  Indians  that  he  belonged  to, 
so  they  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  prolong  the  life  of  the 
old  man,  who  ought  to  die,  and  would  very  soon  if  let  alone. 


61.-HOW  A  YOUNG  BUCK  GOT  HIS  WIFE. 

It  was  Willow  Spring  Bill,  as  he  was  called,  as  he  had 
betr.  working  here  for  some  time  as  chore  boy.  The  band  of 
UmlianB  he  belonged  to  lived  in  the  country  around  Fish  Springs. 
He  was  very  saving  of  what  little  money  or  clothing  he  got  and 
finally  traded  for  a  small  bore  Kentucky  rifle,  that  had  the 
tube  or  nipple  broken  off,  therefore  useless  to  the  Indian  he 
got  it  from. 

He  brought  it  to  me,  knowing  that  I  usually  had  a  few 
extra  tubes  on  hand.  He  asked  me  if  I  would  put  on  one  for 
one  antelope  skin.  That  was  the  usual  price.)  ''Let  me  see 
the  skin."  "No.  I  can't  get  it  till  you  fix  my  gun  so  I  can 
shoot  antelope."  Well,  I  fixed  the  gun  Avithout  taking  his  note. 

About  two  weeks  after  I  got  the  skin  and  traded  for  a 
ccuple  more  that  he  had,  giving  him  a  few  rounds  of  am- 
numitimi.  a  shirt  and  a  red  handkei'cluef,  which  ho  said  he 
wante'1  to  catch  a  squaw  with.  He  had  quit  the  station.  He 
was  now  past  chore  boy.  He  Avas  a  man. 

]  did  not  see  him  again  for  two  or  three  months,  when 
I  chanced  to  be  at  WilloAv  Springs.  Bill  came  to  the  station, 
a  young  and  good  looking  squaAv  at  his  heels.  "Hello,  Bill, 
you  catch  squaw?"  "Yes."  "Where  you  catch  him?''  "Me 
catch  squaw  over  to  Shell  .Creek."  "When  you  catch  him?" 
"Tvo  sleeps  me  catch  him.  ]\Fo  go  home.  Fish  Spring." 

The  young  squaAv  seemed  to  be  verv  bashful.  I  asked  her 
if  she  loved  Bill.  "Yes,"  she  said,  "him  very  good  man,  very 
much  like  him."  And  she  acted  as  if  she  did  and  I  have  no 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


253 


doubts  but  she  did.  But,  oh!  the  difference  between  white 
and  red  people! 

I  afterwards  learned  from  other  Indians  just  how  Bill 
proceeded  to  get  his  wife.  She  lived  in  the  Shell  Creek  coun- 
try with  her  father,  there  being  no  more  of  the  family  or  rel- 
atives left.  The  father  had  lost  one  eye.  He  was  getting 
old  and  feeble,  so  the  young  girl  had  a  hard  time  of  it  gath- 
ering enough  food  for  both.  There  had  been  many  a  young 
buck  that  wanted  her  for  a  wife,  but  the  old  man  had  al- 
ways driven  them  off.  Well,  one  day  the  young  Indian  Bill 
m;,de  his  appearance  at  the  old  man's  camp  and  commenced 
to  lay  sietre  to  the  girl's  heart.  He  made  that  camp  his  home 
and  helped  out  the  food  supply  with  game.  This  went  on  a 
month  or  more.  The  old  man  still  said  no  one  should  take 
the  girl  from  him.  But  Bill  soon  solved  the  problem.  There 
is  no  way  of  finding  out  just  Avhat  agreement  was  made  be- 
tween the  boy  and  girl,  but  this  is  what  happened: 

One  afternoon,  after  coming  in  from  hunting,  Bill  took  his 
gun  all  apart  and  cleaned  and  oiled  it  up  in  fine  shape.  Then 
he  loaded  it  ready  for  work.  The  girl  was  busy  shelling  nuts, 
the  old  man  sound  asleep  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  camp,  with' 
his  face  towards  Bill,  who  aimed  his  gun  at  the  old  man's  good 
eye  and  fired.  The  ball  passed  through  the  eye  and  the  brain, 
too,  killing  the  old  man  instantly. 

The  marriage  ceremony  was  completely  over.  Bill  coolly 
reloaded  his  gun,  turned  to  the  girl  and  said,  "Come,"  and 
the  girl  picked  up  her  blanket  and  followed  her  lord  and 
master  and  was  willing  to  do  so  as  long  as  life  lasted. 

It  was  two  davs  later  that  I  had  seen  them  at  Willow 
Spring?  on  their  wedding  tour,  apparently  as  happy  as  a  couple 
of  love-sick  millionaires  could  be  and  live.  All  they  owned 
on  earth  they  had  on.  or  carried  in  their  hands.  Not  much  to 
start  married  life  with,  but  then  thev  were  Indians,  whose  wants 
are  feAv. 


254 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

62.— THE  CROSS  INDIAN. 

Our  pack  train,  of  half  a  dozen  mules  and  three  men,  camp- 
ed for  the  night  near  a  small  spring  that  was  in  the  west  side  of 
the  valley.  We  had  got  the  mules  all  picketed  on  the  best  grass 
we  could  find  about  there  and  that  was  not  very  good.  I  was  just 
starting  a  fire  when  there  appeared  three  Indians  coming  to- 
wards us  at  a  lively  walk.  "See  boys,"  said  I,  "we  are  going  to 
have  visitors  and  they  seem  to  be  in  a  hurry  to  arrive  before 
supper  time." 

They  came  along  in  single  file,  the  leader,  the  biggest  buck  of 
the  three,  coming  to  within  about  eight  feet  of  me  before  stopping 
or  saying  a  word,  or  making  a  sign.  They  were  well  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  which  they  seemed  to  want  us  to  see  and 
probably  fear  when  we  saw  them,  but  the  fear  didn't  come  from 
our  side.  Then  straightening  up  high  as  possible  and  with  a 
T<,-iy  important  pose,  pointed  with  one  hand  to  a  blanket  that 
was  thrown  over  a  saddle,  then  slapped  his  own  breast. 

I  knew  what  he  wanted,  but  I  asked  him  (in  Indian)  what  he 
"wanted  He  took  a  good  look  at  me  as  if  suprised  at  my  Indian 
talk,  but  said,  "I  want  a  blanket,  and  shirt,  and  flour,  and  (look- 
ing around)  meat,  and  coffee,  and  sugar,  and  matches,  and  pow- 
tier.  and  bullets." 

I  let  him  get  through  with  his  wants  and  as  he  had  not  men- 
tioned saddles  or  mules  I  asked  him  if  he  did  not  wane  them,  too. 
After  taking  another  good  look  at  me,  he  said,  "No  white  man 
wants  them."  I  said,  "Why  do  you  want  all  this  you  have  spo- 
ken about?"  "White  man  steal  Indian  water,  burn  Indian  wood, 
steal  Indian  grass  (swinging  his  hand  around),  all  mine.  Hurry 
give  me  blanket."  "Wait,  who  gave  you  that  water,  that  grass?" 
He  answered,  "I  always  had  it." 

I  said,  "Now  you  lie,  for  that  grass  grows  every  year."  ''I 
don't  lie,  for  all  this  land  with  the  game  and  water  is  mine  and 
I  don't  lie."  "Well,  what  little  water  and  grass  we  get  would 
not  do  you  any  good,  for  the  water  would  run  away  and  the 
grass  all  dry  up."  "It  ain't  that  way  now,  give  me  blan — 

"Stop  your  talk  and  if  you  want  more  than  bullets  sit  right 
down  there  and  wait  a  little  while."  Sigh.  "White  man  mad." 
"No,  but  why  did  you  ask  for  so  much  for  nothing?"  "Indian 
hungry."  "Why  didn't  you  say  so  the  first  thing."  "I  didn't  know 
you  would  understand." 

"Well,  I  don't  know  if  you  will  understand  me  when  I  say  to 
you  that  you  cannot  scare  any  of  these  white  men  and  you  had 
better  sit  down  and  wait  till  they  have  a  mind  to  give  you  some- 
thing to  eat."  He  gave  a  grunt  and  sat  down  with  the  others 
where  I  had  pointed. 

I  told  the  boys  that  if  they  would  get  supper  that  I  would 
take  care  of  the  natives,  as  we  wanted  no  trouble  if  it  could  be 
avoided.  After  they  had  seated  themselves  so  they  could  watch 
every  move  in  the  camp,,  I  heard  one  of  them  say,  "These 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 255 

men  are  mad."    I  said,  "Yes  you  talk  to  much  snake."     (Meaning 
forked  tongue  or  lieing). 

After  awhile  I  filled  and  lighted  my  pipe  then  handed  it  to 
the  nearest  Indian,  who  passed  it  to  the  one  next,  who  drawed 
three  or  four  whiffs  of  smoke,  then  passed  it  back  to  me.  I  took 
my  share  and  the  pipe  passed  back  to  the  other  end  of  the  line 
and  came  as  before  and  was  repeated  till  the  tobacco  was  all 
burned,  when  one  of  the  Indians  cleaned  all  the  ashes  out  and 
passed  the  pipe  back  to  me  and  said,  "Good." 

After  we  had  eaten  our  supper  there  was  enough  left  (in- 
tentionally) to  give  the  bucks  a  good  fill.  After  the  pipe  had  done 
its  work  again,  as  it  was  getting  late,  I  told  the  boys  I  would  go 
and  change  my  mules  to  better  feed  and  when  I  came  back  they 
could  tend  to  their  animals. 

Making  the  change,  I  started  back  and  up  jumped  a  rabbit 
not  over  twenty  feet  from  me.  He  sat  up  quite  straight,  his 
side  toward  me,  a  good  mark.  I  could  not  resist  the  tempta- 
tion of  a  try  at  the  bright  eye.  I  fired  and  as  luck  would  have 
it  (I  was  noted  for  being  lucky),  almost  centered  that  eye,  and 
as  the  other  eye  was  almost  directly  opposite  it  was  not  my  fault 
that  it  went  in  the  same  direction.  I  took  the  rabbit  to  camp 
and  threw  it  down  by  the  Indians.  "There,  I  will  give  you  my 
rabbit.  You  may  take  it  to  your  camp  and  eat  it  in  the  morn- 
ing." 

I  then  reloaded  my  pistol,  the  Indians  watching  every  move, 
They  took  the  rabbit  up  and  held  it  side  ways  to  see  how  it  must 
have  stood  to  get  both  eyes  knocked  out  at  the  same  time.  One 
of  them  said,  "Good  shoot,  and  he  could  shoot  more  with  his  little 
gun  without  loading  again." 

When  the  Indians  were  ready  to  go  home  I  gave  them  a  little 
piece  of  tobacco,  a  dozen  matches  and  a  cup  of  flour  apiece,  and 
said,  "This  is  for  friends  and  not  to  pay  Indians  for  water  or  grass 
that  belong  to  anyone  that  can  use  it,  understand?"  "Yes,  chief 
talk  heap  good.  Me  big  friend,  good  chief.  Me  come  back  (point- 
ing to  where  the  sun  would  be  at  about  7  o'clock  next  morning). 
Have  more  big  talk." 

Well,  we  moved  early  next  morning  and  I  did  not  see  the 
Indian  again  for  over  a  year,  but  when  I  did  see  him  was  when  all 
the  Indians  had  collected  to  get  their  annuities  the  Indian  agent 
was  expected  to  give  them.  When  all  were  ready  for  the  pow- 
wow, or  big  talk,  I  sat  on  a  pile  of  logs  with  a  number  of  Indians 
that  I  was  well  acquainted  with,  when  a  large  buck  came  up  to 
me,  held  out  his  hand  and  said  "Good  friend."  "Yes,"  I  said, 
"but  I  don't  remember  you,  for  I  don't  see  you  much."  Then  one 
of  my  friends  said,  "This  is  the  man  that  tried  to  scare  you  to 
give  him  blankets."  "How  do  you  know?"  "All  Indians  know." 
"He  told  it  himself."  "What  did  he  say?"  "He  said  he  did  not 
know  you  was  Big  Chief's  son,  but  soon  found  out  that  you  would 
not  scare  and  made  him  much  afraid,  but  as  soon  as  he  could 
understand  that  you  could  talk  some  Indian  he  remembered  that 


256 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

he  had  heard  of  you,  and  when  you  shot  that  rabbit  through  the 
eyes  he  was  sure  you  was  a  chief  and  the  Indian's  big  friend." 


63.— THE  INDIAN  OUTBREAK. 

This  was,  as  I  afterwards  learned  from  the  Indians  that  were 
left  alive  when  peace  was  declared.  General  Conner  had  given 
a  band  of  Sho-sho-nee  Indians  a  good  example  of  bravery  by 
.attacking  a  large  party  of  them  that  were  fortified  at  Battle 
Creek,  southern  Idaho. 

He  came  near  getting  the  whole  bunch,  but  there  was  some 
.eighteen  or  twenty  that  made  their  escape  and,  of  course,  wanted 


Howard   Ransom    Kgan, 

as    he    appeared    shortly    after    these 

experiences. 

revenge.  They  got  the  idea  of  attacking  the  enemy  by  a  flank 
movement,  which  they  proceeded  to  carry  out  by  traveling  around 
the  north  end  of  Great  Salt  Lake  to  the  Go-Shute  country  and 
scaring  them  by  bragging  of  the  large  number  of  their  tribe  that 
would  come  out  there  and  clean  them  all  out,  as  well  as  the 
whites. 

I  did  not  hear  of  this  till  all  was  over.  I  was  out  two  or  three 
days  with  Egan  Jack,  an  Indian  friend  of  mine,  on  a  prospecting 
trip.  He  was  not  much  of  a  rider,  having  never  owned  a  horse, 
and  I  used  to  jibe  him  about  his  horsemanship.  And  at  one  time, 
while  we  were  crossing  a  nice,  level  piece  of  ground,  I  let  him  see 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 257 

how  a  rope  that  was  being  dragged  by  a  running  horse  could 
be  picked  up  by  a  man  on  another  horse  without  stopping  or 
dismounting.  Also  how  some  Indians  that  were  used  to  horses 
could  ride  on  the  horses'  side  so  that  only  one  hand  or  foot  could 
be  seen  from  the  other  side. 

These  demonstrations  so  pleased  Jack  that  at  every  level 
piece  of  ground  he  wanted  to  see  it  again,  but  did  not  attempt  it 
himself.  When  we  arrived  at  the  Indian  camp  about  sundown 
and  about  one  mile  from  our  destination  I  learned  during  the 
evening  that  there  were  some  Sho-sho-nee  Indians  that  had  their 
camp  adjoining  the  Go-Shute  camp.  All  were  in  a  thick  grove  of 
pine  timber. 

After  the  squaws  had  watered  and  hobbled  our  horses  on 
good  feed,  in  plain  sight  of  us,  and  we  had  eaten  our  supper  and 
with  a  few  of  the  leading  men  were  sitting  around  the  camp 
fire  smoking  and  talking,  I  said,  "Why  don't  your  Sho-sho-nee 
friends  come  and  talk  and  smoke?"  "Maybe  my  friends  won't 
come."  Well  I  said,  "Tell  them  I  want  to  talk  to  them." 

They  sent  a  boy  to  tell  them  that  the  white  man  wanted  to 
talk  with  them.  The  boy  returned  and  said,  "They  said,  'if  white 
man  wanted  to  talk,  to  talk  to  their  dogs.'  "  I  told  the  boy  to 
go  to  them  again  and  tell  them,  "I  was  no  Sho-sho-nee,  and  did 
not  talk  dog  talk,  but  would  see  them  in  the  morning."  The 
boy  went,  but  soon  came  back  with  the  news  that  the  Sho-sho-nee 
said  that  they  would  steal  our  horses  that  night. 

Jack  asked  me  what  I  was  going  to  do  about  it,  for  he  said 
he  thought  they  would  try  to  get  the  horses.  "What  would  you 
do,  Jack?"  said  I.  "Go  home  tonight,"  he  said.  "Are  you  afraid 
of  them?"  "No,  they  would  not  hurt  me,  but  no  friends  of 
white  men."  "Well,  call  the  boy  once  more."  Now,  boy,  go  tell 
them  Indians  just  what  I  say,  that  there  is  my  horses  (pointing 
to  them)  and  if  they  want  to  steal  them  to  go  ahead,  but  they 
must  take  them  through  the  air,  so  as  to  leave  no  tracks,  or  I 
would  get  my  horses  and  them,  too." 

After  the  boy  had  gone  I  asked  Jack  if  he  would  stick  by  me. 
He  said,  "Yes,  my  friend,  talk  good."  I  soon  noticed  a  couple  of 
young  bucks  sitting  on  the  hillside  quite  close  to  our  horses.  I 
asked  Jack  what  they  were  there  for.  He  said  to  shoot  Indian  if 
he  came  to  steal  horses.  "They  won't  come,"  I  said.  "I  don't 
know,"  he  said.  "I  do,"  said  I,  "for  that  kind  of  talk  with  a 
split  tongue  is  no  good  and  they  are  cowards,  you  will  see." 
And  sure  enough  when  morning  came  we  found  that  they  had  left 
during  the  night. 

After  visiting  the  prospect  we  went  home.  I  heard  nothing 
more  of  the  Sho-sho-nee  for  about  two  weeks,  when  one  evening 
our  chore  boy,  Dan,  said  that  there  was  nine  or  ten  Indians  at 
the  Indian  Camp,  which  was  about  one  thousand  yards  south- 
east of  the  station,  Deep  Creek,  and  he  wanted  to  go  and  hear 
what  they  had  to  say.  He  asked  me  if  he  might  take  the  wagon 
cover  he  usually  used  for  a  bed  in  one  corner  of  the  kitchen. 
I  told  him  no,  but  he  could  go  and  hear  and  then  come  back  and 


258 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

sleep  in  the  kitchen,  for  he  must  have  a  very  early  breakfast  as 
we  were  going  to  have  a  cattle  drive  tomorrow  and  must  start 
early.  "Me  bring  cover  back  early,"  said  Dan.  I  looked  at  him 
sternly  and  said,  "Dan,  I  don't  like  anyone  to  lie  to  me  and  I  do 
not  like  your  actions  a  little  bit.  He  went  and  that  was  the  last 
time  I  ever  saw  Dan. 

Well,  as  the  Indian  riders  that  I  had  engaged  to  help  in  the 
drive  did  not  come  for  their  supper  that  was  promised  them  I 
felt  very  suspicious  that  something  was  brewing  at  the  Indian 
Camp  and  I  immediately  made  the  round  of  the  station  to  size 
up  the  situation.  I  found  the  telegraph  operator  sitting  by  the 
instrument  facing  the  window,  his  lamp  shining  on  him  so  as  to 
make  him  a  good  mark  to  shoot  at  a  hundred  yards  distance.  I 
guess  he  was  some  scared  when  I  told  him  this  and  I  also  asked 
him  if  he  had  any  shooting  irons  and  if  they  were  loaded.  "Good 
Lord,  no.  I  forgot  to  load  up  after  cleaning  my  gun.  Why, 
what  is  the  matter?"  "Maybe  nothing,  but  I  don't  like  the  way 
the  Indians  are  acting.  You  had  better  hang  a  blanket  up  at 
that  window  or  work  in  the  dark.  And  you  might  as  well  tell 
other  stations  that  the  Indians  here  are  having  a  pow-wow  with 
some  strange  Indians  that  are  not  friendly  to  the  whites." 

Then  I  went  back  to  the  house.  There  was  two  six-light  win- 
dows on  either  side  of  the  kitchen  door.  In  looking  through 
there  the  cook  or  anyone  else  in  the  kitchen  could  be  seen  plain- 
ly by  anyone  on  the  outside.  No  blinds  at  the  windows  and  two 
large  lamps  burning  inside,  making  the  whole  interior  show  up 
plainer  than  by  daylight. 

After  seeing  that  every  thing  was  understood  and  set  right 
here  I  went  to  the  bunkhouse.  Here  I  found  it  some  better  for 
there  was  a  curtain  up  at  the  window,  as  there  was  most  always 
a  driver  slept  there  in  the  day  time.  There  were  three  guns 
none  of  them  loaded,  but  plenty  of  ammunition  for  them.  They 
were  soon  ready  for  use  and  placed  in  a  handy  position.  The 
next  pla<:e  was  the  blacksmith  shop,  about  fifty  yards  east  of  the 
station,  where  the  smith  usually  slept  when  the  weather  was 
warm.  He  was  soon  on  his  way  to  the  sitting  room  or  our 
parlor,  that  was  between  my  room  and  the  dining  room.  I  had 
blinds  up  at  every  window. 

I  set  a  guard  to  watch  the  Indian  camp,  for  I  knew  that  if 
they  meant  any  mischief  they  would  first  send  their  squaws  and 
children  away.  T  told  the  boys  to  keep  a  good  watch  on  the  camp 
and  if  they  saw  a  single  tent  go  down  to  let  me  know  at  once, 
for  there  would  soon  be  trouble.  I  stayed  up  myself  till  a  little 
while  before  daylight.  I  needed  some  rest  and  sleep,  so  laid  down 
on  the  floor  in  front  of  the  fireplace  and  with  my  clothes  on, 
as  did  some  of  the  other  boys,  for  most  all  were  together. 

About  the  first  break  of  day  the  smith  gave  me  a  gentle  touch 
and  said,  "The  Indian's  tents  are  going  down."  I  jumped  up  and 
said,  "Someone  of  you  run  to  the  stable  and  saddle  my  horse  and 
bring  him  out,  and  you  may  as  well  saddle  up  the  whole  bunch, 
to  save  them  from  being  burned  in  the  stable. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 259 

I  told  the  boys,  "H — 1  was  cut  loose,  but  if  they  would  stand 
out  there  a  little  way  apart  I  would  ride  over  to  the  nearest 
group  and  try  to  find  out  what  was  in  the  breeze  and  why  the 
ones  that  were  going  to  help  us  drive  had  not  come.  And  if  I 
should  fire  or  any  of  the  Indians  did,  to  turn  loose  and  see 
how  many  they  could  get  before  they  got  out  of  range. 

I  rode  straight  towards  the  middle  of  their  camp  ground,  but 
seeing  a  couple  of  bucks  about  fifteen  feet  apart  and  a  little  to 
the  left  of  my  line  of  traveling,  I  turned  to  the  left  to  bring  them 
on  my  righthand  side,  which  I  considered  was  the  handiest  in 
case  of  trouble. 

I  did  not  stop  till  I  reached  a  point  about  sixteen  feet  from 
the  two  and  as  near  to  one  as  the  other.  I  recognized  the  right- 
handed  one  was  Jack,  although  he  was  dressed  for  traveling.  The 
other  I  knew  to  be  a  Pa-Van-Ute  named  Tung-a-Shump,  whose 
country  was  south  of  Provo,  Utah.  I  did  not  know  he  was 
here  at  this  time.  He  carried  a  large  bore,  buffalo  gun,  which  I 
could  see  below  his  short  blanket,  his  right  side  toward  me.  He 
faced  Jack,  who  faced  him,  and  his  left  side  toward  me.  Jack's 
rifle  laid  across  his  left  arm,  in  position  for  immediate  use  if 
necessary. 

I  asked  Jack  where  the  boys  were  that  was  going  to  help  me 
drive  the  cattle.  No  answer.  I  said,  "What  is  the  matter  here?" 
still  no  answer.  I  rode  a  few  steps  past  the  Pa-Van-Ute,  when 
Jack  said,  "Where  are  you  going?"  I  stopped  my  horse  and  said, 
"After  the  cattle,  but  why  don't  you  talk?"  Still  no  answer. 

Well,  I  tell  you  by  this  time  I  was  thinking  pretty  fast  and 
wishing  I  was  back  with  the  boys.  I  started  again,  turning  in  my 
saddle  so  as  to  watch  both  Indians,  and  not  let  them  get  the 
start  of  me  if  there  was  going  to  be  fun,  and  I  thought  there 
was.  As  I  started  Jack  spoke  again  and  said,  "Where  going?" 
I  said,  "Home."  Not  stopping  this  time,  Jack  said,  "Ride  side 
horse  fast." 

I  knew  what  he  meant  for  me  to  do,  so  after  going  in  that 
direction  as  far  as  I  could  without  going  farther  away  from  home 
I  suddenly  turned  and  dropping  to  the  right  side  of  my  horse, 
went  as  fast  as  I  could  to  the  station. 

I  told  the  boys,  "It  is  all  off  with  the  Indians  and  we  will  have 
to  do  the  driving  ourselves  if  we  can  find  any  stock  to  drive, 
which  I  doubt."  While  we  were  laying  plans  for  our  next  move 
we  saw  nine  or  ten  bucks  in  single  file  go  over  the  bluff  in  the 
direction  of  eight-mile  station. 

"No  more  danger  here  at  present,"  I  said,  "so  now  who  will 
go  with  me  to  see  if  we  can  find  any  animals  left  on  the  range?" 
.  Jerome  Kenney  and  another  boy  volunteered  to  go.  I  left 
word  for  the  rest  to  keep  their  eyes  open  and  not  be  surprised 
or  caught  asleep,  for  I  felt  sure  we  might  be  attacked  yet.  The 
three  of  us  had  not  gone  over  three-quarters  of  a  mile  when  we 
came  to  the  place  in  the  road  where  the  Indians  the  night  before 
had  bunched  all  our  loose  horses,  twenty-four,  and  one  mule, 
to  catch  what  they  wanted  to  ride  and  had  taken  the  direction 


260 PIONEERING     THE      WEST       

that  would  take  them  between  our  station  and  Eight-Mile  station. 

After  seeing  this  we  rode  on,  zig-zagging  this  way  and  that 
way  so  as  not  to  run  into  a  trap,  if  any  was  laid  to  catch  us.  In 
this  way  we  proceeded  for  about  eight  miles,  not  seeing  a  sin- 
gle animal  till  we  came  to  a  deep  ravine  that  was  wide  and  flat  at 
the  bottom.  As  soon  as  we  came  to  the  edge,  where  we  could 
see  the  bottom,  there,  just  below  us,  laid  a  freshly  killed  animal. 
The  top  side  had  been  skinned  and  the  front  and  hind  legs  cut 
off,  all  the  rest  left  as  the  animal  had  fallen  shot.  They  must 
have  placed  a  guard,  that  saw  us  coming  and  left  in  time  to  keep 
out  off  sight,  for  we  did  not  even  get  a  glimpse  of  an  Indian.  If 
we  had,  there  might  have  been  something  doing. 

While  we  were  holding  council  as  to  our  next  move  one  of 
the  boys  noticed  a  big  smoke  just  rising  in  the  west.  "Look 
there,  what  does  that  mean?"  "It  means  dead  men  and  burnt 
station."  I  said,  "for  that  is  about  where  Eight-mile  is  and  now  I 
know  what  to  do,  for  the  Indians  have  driven  off  every  animal 
they  could  find,  so  we  will  go  home  at  once,  but  by  another 
route,  and  we  may  find  some  animals  they  missed." 

We  went  on  our  way  back,  frequently  changing  the  direction 
and  at  last  coming  in  sight  of  home,  we  could  see  that  every  man 
there  was  out  watching  for  our  return,  and  when  we  rode  up  to 
the  station  there  laid  the  stage  driver  dead,  stretched  out  in 
the  dooryard,  and  one  of  his  passengers  in  the  sitting  room.  He 
had  been  shot  in  the  head,  but  was  still  alive.  There  had  been 
four  passengers — two  men  and  two  boys — sons  of  the  wounded 
man,  who  had  been  riding  outside  with  the  driver. 

When  the  coach  came  within  sight  of  Eight-Mile  they  could 
see  a  bunch  of  Indians  standing  around  the  door,  not  an  un- 
usual sight,  so  the  driver  did  not  hesitate  in  driving,  as  usual, 
until  he  had  come  to  about  twenty-five  yards  of  the  house.  Then 
he  saw  a  white  man  lying  in  the  doorway  as  if  dead.  He  im- 
mediately plied  his  whip  and  turned  his  team  so  as  to  get  no 
closer  to  the  house,  but  to  strike  the  road  some  distance  beyond. 

The  Indians  seeing  this  move,  opened  fire  at  once  and  the 
first  shot  to  take  effect  hit  the  passenger  in  the  head  and  he 
slid  down  into  the  boot.  The  next  moment  the  driver  was  shot 
through  the  body.  He  fell  on  top  of  the  other  man.  He  had  not 
lost  grip  on  the  lines,  but  used  the  ends  of  them  for  a  whip  to 
keep  the  horses  running  as  fast  as  they  could  go,  at  the  same  time 
calling  the  other  passengers  to  crawl  out  and  drive,  as  he  was 
shot  and  could  not  guide  the  team. 

The  passenger  said  afterwards  that  he  did  not  know  how  he 
got  to  the  driver's  seat,  but  he  did,  and  taking  the  lines  from  the 
driver's  hands,  told  him  he  would  drive."  "WTell,  make  them  go 
as  fast  as  you  can,  for  they  are  following  us  on  horseback." 
Those  were  his  last  words.  The  man  could  not  see  anyone  fol- 
lowing, for  they  had  given  up  the  chase. 

When  he  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  lane,  about  half  a  mile  west 
of  Deep  Creek,  he  stopped  the  team,  for  he  could  see  a  small 
bunch  of  people  in  front  of  the  house  and  he  was  afraid  they  were 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 261 

Indians.  After  considering  the  matter  over  he  drove  on  up  and 
stopped  in  front  of  the  door  and  commenced  telling  the  boys  of 
his  experience,  when  one  of  the  little  passenger  boys  called  for 
help  to  get  his  father  from  under  that  big  man  that  was  crush- 
ing him  down  so  he  could  not  get  out. 

They  got  the  dead  driver  out  and  laid  him  beside  the  door, 
where  he  was  when  we  got  back.  The  other  man,  when  they  saw 
that  he  was  still  alive,  they  carried  into  the  house.  This  man 
lived  and  when  well  enough  to  travel  went  east  to  his  home  and 
friends,  although  he  had  lost  about  a  tablespoonful  of  his  brains. 
The  driver,  to  go  east,  had  started  about  one  hour  before  we  got 
home,  as  the  operator  said,  Fish  Springs  was  all  right,  there 
seemed  to  be  no  danger  that  way. 

It  now  being  late  in  the  afternoon,  we  decided  to  waite  till 
morning  to  further  investigate  affairs.  Next  morning  very  early 
three  or  four  of  us  went  up  to  Eight  Mile  and  the  sight  I  saw 

there  made  me  "D n  an  Indian,  anyhow,"  and  I  said,  "I  would 

not  try  to  learn  another  word  or  even  speak  another  word  of 
their  lingo  without  it  was  in  case  of  an  emergency,"  and  I  have 
tried  to  keep  my  word  ever  since. 

Eight  Mile  Station  was  built  of  adobes,  two  rooms  about 
sixteen  feet  square  and  sixteen  feet  apart.  The  space  between  the 
rooms  was  covered  the  same  as  the  rooms.  The  doors  of  these 
rooms  opened  in  the  center  of  this  space.  The  north  room  was 
the  kitchen  and  bunk  room.  The  south  room  was  the  granary  and 
full  of  sacked  grain  at  this  time. 

The  stables  were  east  of  the  house  about  fifteen  feet,  parallel 
to  them  and  of  the  same  length.  They  were  joined  to  the  house 
by  a  wall  at  each  end  about  six  feet  high.  The  swayle  in  which 
ran  the  creek  was  close  back  of  these  buildings. 

The  cook  was  lying  just  outside  of  the  space  between  the 
rooms,  stripped,  scalped  and  cut  all  over  his  body.  They  had  even 
cut  his  tongue  out  before,  or  after,  death,  I  don't  know  which,  but 
I  think  it  was  before,  because  they  had  dobbed  his  face  with 
blood  and  then  covered  that  over  with  flour  to  make  him  a  white 
man  again. 

We  had  some  trouble  in  finding  Mr.  Wood,  who  was  the  Over- 
land Mail  hay-stacker,  in  haying  time,  and  hustler  the  rest 
of  the  year — a  good  steady  young  man.  After  about  one  hour 
hunting  around,  we  found  him.  He  laid  about  seventy-five  yards 
north  of  the  house  and  about  thirty  yards  west  of  the  road  in  the 
rabbit  brush.  They  had  taken  off  every  stitch  of  clothing  and  left 
him  as  naked  as  he  was  when  born.  They  had  not  cut  and  slash- 
ed his  body  as  they  had  the  other  man's,  probably  because  they 
had  killed  him  before  they  got  him.  There  were  three  or  four 
broken  arrows  left  near  his  body.  They  had  been  pulled  out  of 
him  so  as  to  get  his  clothes  off. 

Some  of  the  boys  said  they  had  been  shot  into  him  after  he 
fell.  "No,  I  said,  "he  must  have  been  shot  with  arrows  at  the  first 
break,  but  they  did  not  prevent  him  from  running,  and  when  he 
had  got  this  far  away  from  them  he  received  the  fatal  shot." 


262 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

There  was  a  very  large  wound  in  the  center  of  his  breast.  We 
turned  him  on  one  side  to  look  at  his  back,  and  there,  square 
in  the  center,  between  the  shoulder  blades  was  a  largo  hole.  It 
was  some  smaller  than  the  one  in  the  breast,  but  yet  so  large 
it  must  have  been  made  with  an  ounce  ball.  "D — n  that  Pah-Van- 
Ute,"  I  said,  "he  did  this  with  his  big  bore  buffalo  gun,  and  I 
would  bet  all  I  have  that  I  am  right  in  my  suspicions. 

He  was  a  good  shot,  so  I  had  heard,  but  that  he  had  any 
cause  for  revenge  on  the  white  man  I  did  not  know  at  that 
time,  and  of  course  did  not  hear  till  some  time  after  peace  was 
made.  And  here  I  will  tell  what  I  afterwards  learned  from 
the  Indians. 

When  they  saw  me  coming  from  the  station  and  alone,  the 
Pah-Van-Ute  jumped  up  and  said,  "White  man  coming.  I  will 
kill  him!"  Jack  had  then  jumped  up  and  got  in  the  position  as 
I  found  them  and  said,  "All  right,  you  kill  him,  I  kill  you."  Jack 
said  afterwards,  that  he  would  not  have  waited  till  I  was  killed 
but  as  the  Indian  made  no  move  to  raise  his  gun,  he  did  not 
want  to  shoot  him.  Well,  if  he  had  made  a  move  to  raise  his 
gun  it  would  have  been  useless  for  Jack  to  have  wasted  his  am- 
munition, or,  if  he  had  made  a  move  to  change  the  position 
of  his  gun,  I  would  not  have  answered  for  the  consequences,  but 
when  Jack  finally  spoke,  I  knew  I  did  not  have  him  to  deal 
with. 

Well,  we  had  now  seen  enough  and  rode  back  to  the  sta- 
tion. On  the  way  back  we  took  a  different  route,  and  came 
to  the  place  where  the  Indians  had  crossed  the  creek  with  our 
horses.  Here  laid  one  that  they  had  shot,  probably  because  he 
would  not  carry  bare-back,  and  would  most  always  buck  when  the 
saddle  was  put  on,  but  after  his  little  jumping  was  over  he  was 
a  splendid  little  riding  pony  and  was  as  tough  as  a  knot. 

That  evening  a  party  took  tools  and  went  up  to  Eight  Mile 
and  buried  the  men  just  where  the  cook  was  found,  in  front 
of  the  house.  The  driver  was  buried  just  as  he  was  dressed  when 
shot.  He  lies  about  one-half  mile  east  of  Deep  Creek  Station. 

After  about  a  week's  time  we  had  hunted  and  found  two 
or  three  cows  with  young  calves.  We  had  in  the  corral  at  the 
time  of  the  break,  twelve  milch  cows  and  calves.  When  hunting 
the  range  we  had  seen  five  or  six  of  our  Spanish  beef  cattle. 
These  were  all  that  was  left  out  of  fifty,  and  they  were  so  wild 
we  left  them  to  roam  where  they  pleased,  for  no  Indian  or  white 
man  could  come  in  sight  of  them  on  foot  without  being  attacked 
and  gored,  unless  he  laid  flat  down  and  then  he  might  be  rolled 
a  little,  but  if  he  laid  still  they  would  go  away.  They  had 
never  been  handled  in  any  other  way  than  by  horsemen,  and 
took  a  person  afoot  for  a  wild  animal. 

I  remember  of  a  strange  Indian  one  day  coming  to  the  sta 
tion  in  a  very  mad  state  of  mind  and  demanding  a  blanket,  a 
shirt  and  ammunition  to  pay  him  for  being  pounded,  and  his 
shirt  and  blanket  torn  by  one  of  them  as  he  was  coming  down 
the  valley.  "Well,  had  you  ever  heard  that  they  would  not 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST 263 

hurt  if  you  would  lie  down  and  keep  still?"  "No,  and  I  don't 
believe  it,  for  he  kept  trying  to  get  his  horns  through  me,  and 
I  tried  to  shoot  him,  but  my  gun  had  lost  its  cap  and  I  could 
not  shoot,  and  when  I  tried  to  crawl  away  he  would  come  at 
me  again." 

Well,  I  gave  him  a  shirt  and  told  him  to  keep  out  of  the 
way  of  the  cattle,  for  if  they  killed  him  I  would  not  give  him 
anything  more.  He  was  satisfied,  and  said,  "All  right." 


64.— BURNING  OF  CANYON  STATION. 

After  the  California  volunteers  had  been  placed  along  the 
mail  line  to  guard  the  station  from  being  attacked  by  the 
Indians,  a  small  squad  was  scouting  around  government  springs 
and  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  south  of  Simpson  Springs, 
and  in  the  same  range  of  mountains.  They  ran  onto  an  Indian 
camp  and  killed  all  that  were  in  camp,  men,  women  and  chil- 
dren, leaving  none  to  tell  the  tale. 

When  Peah-namp  (the  old  Pah-Van-Chief),  came  home  in 
the  evening,  he  found  that  the  soldiers  had  been  to  his  camp 
and  killed  his  wife  and  papoose  and  all  the  rest  that  had  been 
left  in  the  camp,  and  he  had  thought  the  whites  were  friendly 
as  he  was.  This  was  too  much  to  overlook,  so  he  took  his  few 
men  and  went  west  to  his  wife's  country  (she  was  a  Go-Shute), 
and  hunted  up  her  relations  and  planned  for  revenge. 

After  holding  a  council  it  was  decided  to  attack  either  Wil- 
low Spring  or  Canyon  Station,  and  as  Canyon  Station  was  in 
the  mountains,  and  also  as  was  reported,  more  men  were  there, 
it  was  decided  to  do  what  they  could  to  leave  it  in  a  worse  con- 
dition than  the  Pah-Van  camp  had  been  left.  So,  making  their 
camp  about  three  miles  south,  they  sent  two  men  to  size  up 
the  situation.  They  were  to  go  as  close  as  they  could  without 
being  seen.  They  did,  and  back  they  came  and  reported  that 
there  were  five  or  six  men  there  that  slept  in  the  barn  where 
the  four  horses  were,  but  the  men  went  to  the  house  in  the 
ground  to  eat  their  food,  and  do  not  take  their  guns  with  them. 

They  had  reported  the  situation  just  as  it  was,  and  the  next 
morning  before  day-light  they  were  all  around  the  station  and 
within  easy  gun  shot  of  it.  On  one  side  there  was  a  small 
ravine,  not  more  than  fifteen  yards  away,  and  on  the  other  side 
another  larger  one  a  little  further  off. 

The  barn  was  nearest  the  small  ravine,  where  they  pre- 
pared their  fire  arrows,  to  shoot  into  the  canvass  roof,  which 
they  done  as  soon  as  the  first  gun  was  fired  on  the  other  side. 
The  Indians  waited  till  the  men  had  been  called  to  breakfast  in 
the  dug-out,  and  were  all  down  in  the  hole  without  their  guns, 
all  except  the  hostler,  William  Riley,  who  was  currying  a  horse 
just  outside  the  north  door  of  the  stable  at  the  time  of  the  first 
alarm,  and  he  was  shot  through  the  ankle  and  the  bone  broken 


264 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

short  off.  He  started  down  the  canyon  on  the  run,  but  did  not  get 
far  before  he  was  caught  and  killed. 

The  men  at  breakfast  were  mostly  all  killed  as  they  came 
out  of  the  dug-out  to  reach  their  arms  that  were  stacked  in  the 
south  end  of  the  barn.  Not  one  of  them  ever  reached  his  gun. 
One  man,  though  wounded,  tried  to  escape  by  running  down  the 
canyon  as  Riley  did.  He  got  further  away,  but  was  caught  and 
killed,  and,  as  he  was  some  bald  on  the  top  of  his  head,  and  a 
good  growth  of  whiskers  on  his  chin,  they  scalped  that  and 
left  him  where  he  fell.  Riley  they  dragged  back  to  the  wood 
pile,  threw  him  on  and  set  fire  to  it.  When  the  boys  went  up 
there  they  gathered  his  bones  that  were  left,  put  them  in  a  small 
soap  box,  and  buried  them  where  they  had  found  them. 

The  Indians  got  four  head  of  horses,  as  much  of  the  harness 
as  suited  them,  all  the  guns  and  ammunition  that  was  there, 
also  all  the  provisions  and  cooking  utensils  that  they  thought 
worth  carrying  away,  and  every  thing  else  they  burned.  They 
took  the  clothes  off  of  every  man  and  left  them  just  where  they 
fell  all  this  had  been  done  without  a  shot  being  fired  by  the 
whitemen.  A  most  complete  surprise  and  massacre. 


65.— JESSE  EARL'S  DEATH. 

The  Indians  had  run  off  a  band  of  horses  from  the  Deep 
Creek  range  that  belonged  to  a  man  named  Kennedy.  Father 
was  in  Salt  Lake  when  he  received  a  telegram  of  what  had  been 
done.  He  was  not  long  in  picking  up  a  few  of  the  range  boys 
around  the  saloons  that  were  supposed  to  be  brave  fighters, 
and  some  others,  among  the  latter  Mr.  Earl.  They  started  west, 
all  on  horse  back  except  Mr.  Earl  and  Father,  who  rode  in  a 
covered  spring  wagon.  They  lost  no  time  and  were  traveling  by 
forced  marches.  Father  and  Earl  took  turns  at  driving  the  two 
mule  team,  the  horse-men  usually  riding  behind  the  wagon. 

All  went  along  all  right  till  they  arrived  at  a  point  a  little 
ways  down  the  canyon  and  east  of  where  afterwards  Canyon 
Station  was  burned.  Father  and  Earl  had  just  changed  posi- 
tions. The  back  curtain  was  loose  and  sometimes  it  was  raised 
by  the  wind  so  as  to  give  a  good  view  inside  to  those  that  were 
riding  behind. 

This  was  the  case  at  the  point  named,  when  a  man,  nick- 
named Buffalo  Bill  (I  have  forgotten  his  name) ,  so  called 
after  the  famous  scout  of  the  early  days,  rode  up  close  to  the 
wagon  and,  as  the  curtain  flapped  up  he  shot  Mr.  Earl  in  the 
back,  killing  him  instantly.  The  other  riders  had  fallen  back 
and  did  not  see  the  shooting  or  know  what  had  been  done 
till  they  came  up,  which  they  soon  did  after  hearing  the  shot, 
and  when  they  saw  what  had  occured  they  were  in  for  killing 
Bill  on  the  spot. 

Father  asked  him  if  he  had  not  made  a  mistake  and  killed 
the  wrong  man,  He  said,  "It  was  an  accident."  He  was  exam- 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 265 

ining  his  pistol  to  see  if  it  was  in  good  working  order  when 
his  thumb  slipped  off  the  hammer.  He  did  not  intend  to  shoot 
at  all."  Well,  there  was  a  doubt,  and  they  gave  him  the  bene- 
fit of  it;  but  he  was  closely  watched  after  that  with  the  inten- 
tion of  giving  him  over  to  the  officers  on  their  return  to  Salt 
Lake. 

On  the  return  trip  he  disappeared  in  the  night  at  Simp- 
son Springs.  He  was  afterwards  killed  by  a  sheriff's  posse 
near  Fort  Bridger,  who  wanted  him  for  horse  stealing  and 
murder.  He  held  the  posse  at  bay  with  his  two  large  revol- 
vers, threatening  to  shoot  the  sheriff  if  he  made  a  move  to- 
wards him.  The  sheriff  told  his  men  to  fire  but  they  were 
afraid  Bill  would  kill  them,  so  held  their  fire  till  he  had  backed 
off  a  considerable  distance  when  the  bunch  raised  their  guns 
and  fired  all  at  the  same  time.  Bill  dropped  to  the  ground  and 
in  doing  so  lost  his  pistols. 

When  they  came  up  to  him  he  was  feeling  around  for 
them  for  he  had  been  shot  blind  but  would  have  found  them  if 
they  had  not  been  kicked  out  of  his  way.  He  soon  died,  his  last 
words  were,  "By  h — 1,  I  will  have  a  lead  mine  of  my  own  when 
I  get  to  H — 1."  Every  shot  fired  at  him  had  taken  effect. 
Jesse  Earl  was  taken  down  to  Deep  Creek  and  buried  there. 

The  Kennedy  horses  were  never  recovered,  but  one  of  the 
men  in  the  party,  that  was  sent  to  try  and  get  them,  shot  one 
of  his  arms  off  while  trailing  his  gun  through  the  brush  in  the 
canyon  where  the  horses  had  been  driven  through.  This  satis- 
fied Father  of  the  value  of  a  "City  Rough"  in  an  Indian  country, 
for  he  said,  "He  would  not  give  a  half  dozen  of  his  mail  boys 
for  a  hundred  saloon  bred  Roughs."  He  never  hired  any  more 
of  that  sort,  but  instead,  it  was  the  farm  boy  that  he  wanted, 
and  he  generally  got  what  he  wanted. 


66.— THE  INDIAN,  NO  LEGS. 

On  my  way  to  Fish  Springs  with  supplies  for  the  station  I 
staid  over  night  at  Simpson's  Springs.  It  was  there  that  I  first 
heard  of  the  "Indian  no  legs."  The  boys  said,  he  had  left  there 
yesterday  morning  to  cross  the  desert  to  Dug  Way  Mountains, 
and  said  they  did  not  believe  he  could  make  it  and  would  die 
on  the  desert  of  thirst. 

I  was  traveling  alone,  I  had  two  mules  and  an  ambulance, 
or  mud-wagon,  as  we  called  it,  and  had  quite  a  heavy  load.  The 
roads  were  dry  and  dusty  and  it  was  very  warm  during  the 
middle  of  the  day.  I  started  about  six  in  the  morning  and  by 
eight  o'clock  was  some  eight  or  ten  miles  from  Simpson's,  when 
I  discovered  something  moving  some  distance  ahead  and  keep- 
ing to  one  side  of  the  road  and  bobbing  up  and  down  apparently 
in  the  same  place. 

On  looking  down  at  the  road  for  tracks  I  saw  what  might 
have  been  made  by  setting  down  a  flat  bottom  basket  in  the 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


dust  and  repeating  the  operation  on  every  foot  of  the  distance 
along  the  road.  Of  course  when  I  saw  this  I  knew  what  it 
was  that  I  could  see  ahead,  and  hurried  up  my  team  and  was 
soon  along  side  of  the  man,  who  had  turned  just  out  of  the 
road  to  let  me  pass. 

I  stopped,  and  asked  him,  where  he  was  going?  He  said 
he  was  going  to  the  Indian  camp  over  to  that  mountain,  (Point- 
ing to  a  place  about  fifteen  miles  away).  I  asked  him  how  long 
it  would  take  him  to  go  there.  He  said,  "  One  day  and  one  half 
day.  You  got  water?"  He  asked  me.  I  said,  "Yes.  have 
you?"  "Just  a  little  bit,  will  you  give  me  some?"  "Yes,  have 
you  anything  to  eat?"  He  had  a  small  piece  of  bread  that 
the  boys  had  given  him.  "Are  you  tired?"  "Yes,  Indian  all 
the  time  tired." 

I  said,  "I  would  give  you  a  ride  if  I  could  get  you  up  there" 
(pointing  to  a  place  back  of  my  seat.)  "Me  go  alright,"  he 
said.  How  he  did  it  I  do  not  know,  but  he  got  to  the  place  I 
had  pointed  to  as  quick  as  I  could  have  done  it,  and  as  I  started 
along  he  seemed  as  tickled  as  a  little  child  on  his  first  ride, 
and  would  watch  the  brush  go  by  as  fast  as  it  did  before  he  lost 
his  legs,  which  was  some  fifteen  years  before. 

He  told  me  that  he  lost  his  legs  by  having  them  frozen, 
when  he  was  caught  in  a  blizzard,  and  a  doctor  had  to  cut  them 
off  to  save  his  life.  I  thought  it  would  have  been  better  for 
him  if  the  doctor  had  not  cut  them  off  for  then  he  would  have 
saved  a  good  deal  of  suffering.  I  asked  him  if  the  Indians  ever 
helped  him  to  travel.  He  said,  "No  they  have  no  horses  and 
can't  carry  me  every  where  they  go."  "Do  they  give  you 
food?"  "Yes  when  I  am  at  their  camp,  but  not  at  any  other 
time."  How  do  you  carry  food  and  water  enough  across  a 
place  like  this  we  are  crossing?"  "See  I  carry  water  in  this, 
(holding  towards  me  a  willow  water  jug  that  would  hold  about 
one  gallon). 

Just  think  of  that,  crossing  a  twenty-five  or  thirty  mile 
desert,  one  foot  at  a  jump  and  in  the  hottest  weather,  with  only 
one  gallon  of  water  and  that  as  hot  as  the  weather.  What 
little  food  he  left  the  camp  with  he  made  to  last  as  long  as 
possible  by  catching  mice  or  the  chipmunks  that  he  could 
reach  with  his  stick  or  dig  out  of  their  holes  when  he  saw  them 
go  in.  What  a  life!  No,  thank  you,  not  for  me. 

I  had  went  about  ten  miles  from  where  I  had  caught  up 
with  the  Indian  when  he  asked  me  to  stop  as  he  wanted  to  go 
that  way  (pointing  off  to  the  right  to  a  place  about  five  miles 
away).  As  I  could  drive  no  nearer  I  stopped  the  team  and  be- 
fore I  could  get  to  help  him  he  had  taken  hold  of  the  side 
of  the  wagon  and  swung  his  body  over  the  side  and 
dropped  to  the  ground  all  smiles  and  talking  as  fast  as  he 
could  make  his  tongue  travel  and  that  was  not  slow. 

I  gave  him  his  bottle  full  of  water,  and  all  of  my  dinner, 
a  hand  full  of  matches  and  my  big  red  cotton  handkerchief.  He 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 267 

seemed  a  very  proud  Indian.  I  asked  him  when  he  would  get 
to  camp.  He  said,  "Sun-rise  tomorrow." 

Now  when  he  started  off  I  noticed  that  he  twisted  his  body 
at  every  jump,  placing  one  end  of  his  stout  stick  on  the  ground 
by  his  side,  and  by  force  of  his  arms,  lift  his  body,  and  at  the 
same  time  shove  it  ahead  about  one  foot  or  less.  This  he 
could  repeat  very  fast  which  made  it  look  to  me  as  if  his  body 
was  moving  ahead  all  the  time. 

He  had  a  raw-hide  sack  arrangement  which  was  made  to  fit 
around  his  body  fastened  around  him  above  the  hips.  The  sole 
or  bottom  of  this  sack  was  made  of  the  thickest  hide,  I  do  not 
know  if  he  had  any  soft  material  in  the  bottom  or  not,  but 
I  presume  he  had,  or  how  could  he  stand  the  shock  of  jumping 
out  of  the  wagon?  or  the  continual  bump,  bump,  while  traveling 
I  heard  of  him  several  times  after  that  but  never  saw  him  again. 


67.— PLAYFUL  GOATS. 

We  were  on  our  way  from  deep  Creek  to  Salt  Lake  City 
and  on  going  through  E.  T.  City,  the  first  settlement  in  Tooele 
Valley,  this  is  what  we  saw.  There  was  but  one  Street  run- 
ning through  the  place  and  that  was  nearly  east  and  west.  In 
front  of  the  south  row  of  houses  and  about  ten  feet  from  them 
there  was  an  irrigating  ditch,  about  eight  feet  wide  and  two 
feet  deep,  with  ten  or  twelve  inches  of  water  running  with 
a  slow  current  and  so  clear  that  the  bebbles  on  the  bottom 
could  plainly  be  seen. 

Right  in  front  of  the  doors  a  plank  was  laid  across  the 
canal  to  serve  as  a  foot  bridge  to  the  road,  which  we  were 
traveling. 

"Oh!  look  there,"  said  my  pardner,  "See  that  little  girl  on 
that  plank  playing  in  the  water  with  a  short  stick."  She  was 
about  three  years  old.  She  was  standing  on  the  plank  over  the 
water  with  her  back  towards  the  door  of  the  house  and  lean- 
ing over  to  reach  the  water.  "Look  there,"  said  my  pardner, 
"there  is  going  to  be  something  doing". 

What  I  saw  was  a  Billy  Goat  coming  up  the  side  walk,  a 
few  rods  down  stream.  He  would  come  a  little  ways,  stop  and 
look,  then  come  again.  In  this  way  he  soon  reached  the  plank 
and  sizing  up  the  situation,  backed  away  a  few  steps,  then  made 
a  jump  striking  the  little  girl  in  the  back  so  hard  that  she  went 
sprawling  face  down  in  the  water. 

The  goat  then  turned  and  ran  down  the  side  walk  as  fast 
as  he  could  for  about  fifty  yards  where  he  turned  and  looking 
back  seemed  to  be  enjoying  the  sport  and  wagging  his  tail 
and  chewing  gum. 

My  pardner  jumped  out  of  the  wagon  and  ran  to  rescue  the 
girl,  but  before  he  got  to  her  ,the  door  of  the  house  opened  and 
out  ran  a  woman  crying,  "Oh  my  daugther  why  did  you  fall 


268 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

into  the  water."  "Madam"  said  my  pardner  who  was  now  close 
to  the  plank.  "She  did  not  fall  in  but  was  knocked  in."  "What 
do  you  mean  by  that?"  "I  mean  that  I  saw  the  goat  butt  her 
in."  What  goat?"  "That  fellow  that  is  down  there  on  the  side- 
walk laughing  at  the  fun."  "Oh  that  is  father's  goat  and  I  told 
him  he  must  kill  him  for  he  is  always  butting  someone,  and 
now  if  he  don't  kill  him  I  will.  Oh  my  poor  child  might  have 
been  drowned  just  on  account  of  that  beast.  My  child  often 
crosses  here,  but  never  before  fell  in."  "Not  her  fault  now." 


68.— WAGON  GOING  WITHOUT  THE  TEAM. 

I  sent  a  couple  of  our  best  Indian  teamsters  to  Eight  Mile 
Canyon  to  get  a  load  of  logs.  It  generally  took  two  or  three 
days  to  make  the  trip  with  oxen,  which  was  the  kind  of  team 
they  had.  The  second  day  the  two  men  came  back  without 
wagon  or  oxen.  When  I  asked  them  what  was  the  matter,  it 
was  a  long  time  before  they  could  tell  me  for  laughing.  But 
I  finally  thought  I  had  it.  So  I  gave  them  some  more  grub  and 
told  them  to  go  back,  and  early  next  morning  I  would  ride  up 
there  and  see  what  they  had  done  to  make  the  wagon  start  for 
home  and  leave  the  drivers  and  team  behind. 

Next  day  I  was  up  there  about  8  a.  m.  and  found  the  men 
there  and  still  laughing  at  what  they  seemed  to  think  a  good 
joke.  The  men  had  cut  and  dragged  to  the  wagon  three  good 
sized  logs  that  would  make  a  good  load.  They  rolled  two  of 
them  on  the  wagon,  and  in  trying  to  get  the  other  on  top, 
had  started  the  wagon  on  the  down  grade.  It  was  in  the  road 
which  it  kept  for  a  hundred  yards  to  where  a  small  ravine  crossed 
the  road,  where  there  was  quite  a  steep  bank  on  the  lower  side. 
Here  is  where  I  found  the  wagon  with  the  tongue  buried  two 
thirds  of  its  length  in  the  lower  bank.  I  asked  the  Indian  what 
they  were  going  to  do  about  it.  They  said  they  could  not  get 
the  wagon  but  could  drive  the  team  home.  I  said  "Here  you  fel- 
lows are  going  to  take  this  wagon,  logs  and  team  home  and 
start  very  soon  too. 

I  had  not  got  off  my  horse,  and  did  not  till  they  started 
home.  "You  fellows  bring  the  oxen  here,"  which  they  soon  did 
for  they  thought  I  was  getting  mad,  "Now  fasten  a  chain  around 
the  back  axle-tree,  hitch  the  oxen  on  and  pull  the  wagon  back 
till  the  tongue  is  out  of  the  ground  and  if  it  is  not  broken  you 
will  soon  be  on  your  way  home. 

The  first  pull  brought  it  out  all  right,  "Now  hitch  the  oxen 
on  the  wagon  and  take  it  to  where  I  say."  This  done.  "Now 
take  the  oxen  and  drag  down  the  other  log."  Of  course  I  went 
with  them  to  see  if  they  did  it  right.  When  the  log  was  beside 
the  wagon,  now,  I  said,  "get  the  skids  used  in  loading."  When 
these  were  properly  placed  I  told  them  how  to  place  the  chains 
so  as  to  load  the  log  with  the  oxen,  which  was  soon  done. 
"Now  bind  your  load  as  you  have  been  told."  This  was  done, 


P  I  O  X  E  E  R  I  X  G      THE      W  E  S  T 269 

"Now  water  your  oxen  and  then  start  for  home  and  the  next 
time  don't  act  like  babies."  Well  they  were  proud  to  think  they 
had  done  it  alone. 


69.— THE  DOG  POMPEY. 

The  dog  was  a  large  St.  Bernard,  very  stout  built  with 
thick  black  curly  hair.  He  had  a  very  intelligent  look  and  a 
kind  disposition.  He  had  been  taught  to  carry  things  in  his 
mouth.  He  could  carry  a  common  water  bucket  full  of  water 
without  spilling  any,  but  of  course  with  such  a  load  he  had  to 
travel  slow,  there  not  being  much  room  to  step  ahead. 

When  we  were  repairing  our  little  Saw  Mill  at  Deep  Creek 
we  had  a  carpenter  named  Dick  Pettit,  who  was  very  fond  of 
Pompy  and  used  to  let  him  carry  the  large  dinner  basket  that 
held  the  dinner  for  the  four  men. 

The  mill  where  they  were  to  work  was  over  a  half  mile 
below  the  Station,  and  the  trail  or  path  crossed  the  creek  on  top 
of  the  dam  at  the  head  of  the  canal  that  led  the  water  down  at 
the  mill.  The  dam  made  a  large  and  quite  deep  pond  where 
the  boys  used  to  have  much  fun  bathing  and  always  took  Pom- 
py with  them  as  he  was  very  fond  of  swimming  and  playing 
with  them  while  in  the  pond. 

One  day  as  they  were  going  down  in  single  file,  Pompy  in 
the  center  with  the  dinner  basket,  one  of  the  men  that  was  in 
the  lead  had  a  stick  in  his  hand,  and  as  he  was  passing  about  the 
middle  of  the  dam  threw  the  stick  out  about  eight  or  ten  feet 
in  the  pond.  It  no  sooner  struck  the  water  than  Pompy  made  a 
jump  for  it  still  holding  the  basket,  and  finding  he  could  not 
swim  and  hold  it  out  of  the  water  managed  to  turn  around 
and  tried  to  push  it  -out  to  the  bank.  The  men,  some  swearing, 
some  laughing,  tried  to  help  the  dog  land  the  basket,  which 
they  finally  did.  But  oh!  what  a  sad  looking  mess  that  dinner 
was  in,  not  a  bite  fit  to  eat,  except  baked  beef. 

Some  of  the  men  were  so  mad  they  wanted  to  whip  the  dog 
for  that  dirty  trick,  and  others  were  just  as  willing  to  fight  to 
protect  him,  especially  Dick,  who  said,  you  darn  fools,  the  fault 
is  with  the  man  who  threw  that  stick  in  the  pond,  not  the  dog, 
and  I  will  thrash  any  one  that  trys  to  whip  him  for  it,  and  duck 
them  in  the  pond  afterwards. 

Another  time  all  the  ranch  hands  were  eating  their  supper 
in  the  large  dinning  room  when  the  cook  came  to  the  kitchen 
door  and  said,  "Dick,  where  is  that  dinner  basket?"  "Why  didn't 
Pompy  bring  it  to  you?"  "No,  and  I  told  you  if  that  basket 
was  not  brought  back  I  would  not  put  up  any  more  dinners  for 
you  and  I  wont."  Well  said  Dick,  "It  ain't  my  fault  for  I  gave 
the  basket  to  Pompy  and  told  him  to  take  it  to  you." 

Just  then  one  of  the  men  said,  "there  stands  the  awful 
brute  that  is  the  cause  of  all  our  trouble''  Dick  looked  around 
and  seeing  the  dog,  said  "Pompy  you  darn  scamp  where  is 


270 P  I  O  N  K  K  R  I  N  G    THE    WEST 

that  dinner  basket?  If  you  have  lost  it  you  get  no  supper 
(talking  crossly).  Go  get  the  basket  at  once,  git."  The  dog 
seemed  to  know  what  was  wanted  for  he  turned  and  went  out. 
Some  of  the  men  left  the  table  to  watch  the  dog,  who  went 
down  the  road  on  the  trot  for  about  fifty  yards  to  where  a 
couple  of  wagons  had  been  left  just  to  one  side  of  the  road  and 
opposite  a  dwelling  house.  The  people  kept  three  or  four  dogs, 
who  had  intercepted  Pompy  as  he  was  coming  home  with  the 
basket,  and  in  order  to  defend  himself  had  set  the  basket  down 
under  the  wagons,  and  after  the  scrap  was  over  had  forgotten 
the  basket,  but  now  he  picked  it  up  and  brought  it  to  the 
dinning  room  door  and  stood  there  holding  it  in  his  mouth  until 
Dick  called  the  cook  to  come  and  get  it,  which  he  did  and 
patted  the  dog's  head  and  told  him  to  go  around  to  the  kitchen 
door  and  he  would  give  him  his  supper.  This  he  seemed  to 
understand  for  he  went  at  once  as  told. 

Another  time  the  boys  had  caught  a  coyote  late  in  the 
evening,  and  concluded  to  not  kill  it  till  morning,  so  tied  the 
trap  chain  around  a  post  and  left  it  for  the  night.  Father, 
when  he  got  up  for  his  early  morning  ride  saw  the  coyote  and 
made  up  his  mind  to  see  a  little  sport.  So  after  saddling  his 
horse  and  calling  his  dog,  he  turned  the  coyote  loose  and  the 
chase  was  on.  The  coyotes  leg  that  had  been  held  in  the  trap 
all  night  was  so  sore  and  stiff  that  he  could  not  keep  out  of 
Pompy's  reach  only  by  dodging  one  way  and  another,  but  al- 
ways working  towards  the  west  creek  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
starting  place.  When  he  reached  this  creek  and  attempted 
to  jump  across  it,  Pompy  jumped  at  the  same  time  and  both 
landed  in  the  water  clinched,  and  struggled  to  keep  on  top. 

The  creek  at  this  place  was  very  deep,  but  only  about  four 
feet  wide,  with  perpendicular  banks.  Father  dismounted  to  help 
the  dog  if  necessary. 

The  coyote  had  the  dog  by  the  side  of  his  neck.  The  dog 
kept  his  body  over  the  coyote  and  turning  his  head  sideways 
was  trying  to  keep  the  coyote's  head  under  water  to  drown  him 
loose,  which  he  did,  and  then  with  Father's  help  got  out  of  the 
creek,  and  then  reaching  back  pulled  the  coyote  out  with 
Father's  help.  He  was  not  dead  but  Pomp  soon  made  him  like 
sausage. 

I  had  loaned  by  plastering  trowel  to  a  man  who  lived  a 
couple  of  miles  down  the  valley  from  Deep  Creek  Station,  and 
as  he  had  not  returned  it,  I  thought  I  would  ride  down  to  his 
place  and  get  it.  While  I  was  saddling  my  horse  I  noticed  that 
Pomp  was  watching  me  as  if  he  wanted  to  go  with  me,  so  when 
I  got  on  my  horse  I  said,  all  right  Pomp,  come  on.  He  ran 
a  noseing  around  till  he  found  a  small  stick  which  he  picked 
np  and  seemed  pleased  for  the  privilege  of  going  for  an  airing 

Most  of  the  road  was  dry  and  dusty,  but  at  one  place  the 
creek  ran  close  to  the  road,  and  was  about  eight  feet  wide  and 
a  foot  deep,  with  a  gravely  bottom  that  made  it  a  nice  place  to 
water  teams  or  cattle.  When  I  arrived  at  the  man's  place  and 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


found  him  at  home,  after  getting  the  trowel  I  still  sat  on  my 
horse,  talking  to  the  man  and  tapping  the  trowel  on  the  horn 
of  my  saddle. 

Pompy  had  a  number  of  times  placed  his  front  feet  as  high 
on  the  saddle  as  he  could  reach,  trying  to  call  my  attention  to 
him.  He  wanted  to  carry  that  towel,  so  I  placed  the  handle  of 
it  in  his  mouth  and  after  getting  through  talking  with  the  man, 
I  looked  around  for  Pomp.  There  he  was  lying  down,  with 
the  trowel  between  his  paws.  As  soon  as  he  saw  me  start  he 
picked  up  the  trowel  and  followed,  keeping  close  behind  the 
horse.  I  occassionaly  looked  back  to  see  if  still  had  the  trowel. 
I  had  done  this  just  before  we  got  back  to  the'  creek  bend, 
and  not  again  till  most  home,  and  as  I  did  I  saw  that  the 
dog  had  dropped  the  trowel. 

Well  I  could  not  blame  him  much,  for,  it  was  a  very  hot 
day.  As  I  turned  around  Pomp  stopped  and  turned  back,  but 
would  not  go  unless  I  did,  and  keep  him  only  about  two  rods 
ahead  of  me.  I  was  jawing  and  promising  him  a  good  thrash- 
ing if  he  had  lost  that  trowel  and  could  not  find  it.  This  went 
on  till  we  arrived  at  the  creek  bend,  when  the  dog  left  the  road 
wadeing  out  into  the  creek  and  stood  still,  but  kept  sticking 
his  nose  in  the  water. 

I  then  knew  where  the  trowel  was,  and  how  he  had  lost  it 
by  letting  it  fall  out  of  his  mouth  while  he  got  a  drink,  and  the 
current  had  carried  it  a  little  down  stream.  I  got  off  my  horse 
and  picked  up  a  small  stick  to  fish  for  the  trowel.  Pomp  saw 
the  stick  and  thinking  it  was  for  him  he  jumped  to  the  further 
side  of  the  creek,  turned  and  kept  sticking  his  nose  in  the  water 
up  to  his  eyes.  After  searching  for  some  time  I  located  the 
trowel  about  four  feet  down  from  where  the  dog  was  hunting 
for  it.  He  seemed  to  know  where  he  had  dropped  it,  but  did 
not  allow  for  the  current.  It  was  some  time  before  I  could  coax 
him  far  enough  to  see  what  I  was  pointing  at,  with  the  stick, 
and  I  was  also  afraid  I  would  hit  him  with  it. 

But  finally  as  I  was  about  to  give  up  trying  to  make  him 
understand  where  the  trowel  was,  he  caught  a  sight  of  shineing 
mettle  and  then  there  was  something  doing.  The  water  there 
was  eighteen  inches  deep.  The  dog  made  a  lunge  and  landed 
both  front  feet  on  the  trowel,  as  if  it  would  try  to  get  away, 
then  under  went  his  head.  Gee  but  he  made  the  wtaer  fly.  But 
he  came  up  with  the  handle  of  the  trowel  in  his  mouth  and  stood 
in  the  road  till  I  was  ready  to  go.  Then  he  kept  the  lead  till  we 
got  home,  where  some  of  the  boys  tried  to  get  the  trowel  from 
him,  but  no,  he  had  got  it  from  me,  and  I  was  the  one  to  get 
it  back. 

As  I  rode  up  I  called  to  him  to  come  and  give  me  that  trowel 
before  he  lost  it  again.  He  came  and  placing  his  feet  the  same 
as  when  I  first  handed  it  to  him  allowed  me  to  take  the  trowel. 
Then  seemed  to  think  all  was  off  and  went  to  the  side  of  the 
house  to  lie  in  the  shade. 


272 P  I  O  X  K  EKING     THE     WEST __ 

70.— WILD   PETS. 

I  will  now  have  to  tell  you  of  a  few  Pole  Cat  incidents.  First 
I  was  out  prospecting  with  a  Mr.  Shell  we  had  located  a  claim 
and  built  a  small  log  cabin,  and  were  sinking  a  shaft  some  five 
or  six  rods  up  the  hill  from  the  cabin.  One  noon  Shell  went  down 
to  start  dinner  while  I  stayed  to  load  the  drilled  holes  for  blast- 
sing.  He  soon  came  running  back  all  excited,  and  said,  "Come 
quick  and  help  me  catch  the  prettiest  little  animal  I  ever  saw  in 
all  my  life,  I  want  to  catch  it  alive,  it  will  make  such  a  fine 
pet. 

Don't  get  excited  I  said  I  think  I  know  what  your  pet  is,  and 
you  had  better  give  him  plenty  of  room,  but  Shell  fairly  pulled 
me  down  to  the  cabin,  where  on  looking  through  the  logs  we 
could  see  the  pet  gnawing  at  our  bacon  sack  that  laid  on  the 
floor,  not  having  been  hung  up  in  its  proper  place,  "Don't  make 
a  noise"  he  said,  "How  are  we  to  catch  him  alive?" 

This  was  a  well  educated  man  who  came  from  New  York 
City  and  did  not  know  a  skunk  when  he  saw  it.  Stand  back,  I 
said,  "that  is  a  pole  cat  and  if  he  is  a  mind  to  he  can  make  the 
cabin  uninhabitable."  Well  if  you  know  it  why  don't  you  shoot 
it,  there  is  a  good  view  of  him  from  here.  "Yes  but  don't  you 
know  that  if  I  did  shoot  it  in  there  we  would  have  to  move  out. 
Can't  I  make  you  understand  that  that  animal  has  a  supply  of 
scent  that  would  clean  out  the  whole  of  New  York  City.  "Well 
what  are  you  going  to  do  wait  till  he  eats  up  the  whole  of  that 
bacon?"  "No,  you  come  to  this  side  of  the  house  and  I  will 
see  if  I  can  get  him  to  leave. 

I  took  some  small  pebbles,  rolled  them  towards  the  cat,  at 
the  same  time  kicking  at  the  logs,  the  cat  got  alarmed,  crawled 
under  the  logs  and  started  up  the  hill  towards  the  shaft,  as 
soon  as  it  was  out  of  the  house,  Shell  said,  "Now  shoot  him." 
"Not  i>je.  he  is  too  close  yet." 

About  half  way  between  house  and  shaft,  the  ledge  cropped 
out  with  a  large  crevice  or  crack  in  it,  the  cat  went  into  this. 
"Now  I  am  going  to  get  him  without  you  shooting  him."  Never 
fear,  I  wont  shoot  him  that  close  to  the  trail,  and  you  had 
better  leave  him  alone. 

No,  he  must  have  his  own  way,  so  he  took  our  largest  drill 
and  by  leaning  over  the  crevice,  drill  and  arm  straight  down  he 
was  able  to  reach  the  cat.  I  saw  him  make  two  or  three  fierce 
lunges  and  then  leaving  the  drill  in  the  crevice,  raised  his 
hands  and  came  running  down  to  where  I  was  standing,  and  said 
"Oh,  my,  What  a  smell."  I  said  "You  are  very  lucky  if  you 
haven't  got  some  of  it  on  your  clothes."  "Well,"  he  said,  I  must 
seem  like  a  d d  idiot  to  you  and  I  guess  I  am. 

For  two  weeks  after  our  trail  to  the  shaft  was  in  the  shape  of 
a  semicircle.  When  we  were  about  to  leave  I  could  not  get  Shell 
to  fish  out  the  drill  he  had  killed  the  cat  with,  and  said  he 
would  sooner  pay  for  half  a  dozen  like  it  than  get  it.  And  if 
I  would  agree  to  say  nothing  about  the  d d  pet,  when  we  got 


P  I  O  X  E  E  R  T  N  G     T  H  R     W  E  S  T 273 

to  a  place  where  there  wag  liquor  I  could  have  as  much  as  I 
wanted.  Well  I  wanted  much. 

At  another  time  much  later,  and  in  Cache  Valley  I  had  traded 
for  a  saw  mill  in  High  Creek  Canyon  where  I  run  a  custom 
shingle  mill.  We  had  a  log  cabin  in  which  the  hired  men  slept. 
There  were  six  double  bunks  and  at  times  they  were  all  occupied, 
and  in  stormy  weather  the  floor  space  would  have  a  few  beds 
spread  down  for  the  night.  This  floor  was  of  rough  lumber  with 
many  large  cracks  and  not-holes.  There  was  a  large  open  fire- 
place in  one  end  of  the  room  that  was  usually  kept  full  of  burn- 
ing logs  in  cold  weather. 

I  had  a  young  Scotchman  hired  to  work  in  the  mill,  he  oc- 
cupied one  of  the  lower  bunks  facing  the  fire-place.  While  lay- 
ing in  his  bed  he  could  easily  reach  the  floor  with  his  hand.  One 
night  when  all  had  retired  Johnny  lay  awake  and  saw  a  pole  cat 
running  around  the  room  picking  up  the  crumbs  and  scraps 
that  had  been  left  by  those  who  had  eaten  their  supper  by  the 
fire.  He  watched  the  cat  till  it  had  cleaned  up  all  it  could  find, 
even  going  under  the  lower  bunks.  He  saw  the  animal  crawl 
through  one  of  the  cracks  in  the  floor. 

He  said  nothing  of  this  to  any  one,  but  the  next  evening  he 
left  a  few  bacon  scraps  on  the  floor  beside  his  bunk,  swept  the 
floor  and  left  the  fire  to  give  a  little  light.  After  all  had  been 
quiet  for  a  while  the  cat  made  its  appearance  again,  coming  up 
through  the  same  crack  as  before  and  exploring  the  room,  found 
the  crumbs,  and  ate  them  all  before  going  the  crack  route  for 
home. 

This  was  kept  up  for  a  few  nights  in  succession  and  finally, 
the  boy  ventured  to  touch  the  cat's  back.  It  seemed  to  under- 
stand that  there  was  no  harm  intended,  and  the  boy  after  a  few 
days  got  braver,  and  would  stroke  the  cat's  back  as  long  as  he 
was  eating  the  crumbs.  The  cat  also  seemed  to  enjoy  the  pet- 
ting, and  now  would  come  straight  from  the  crack  to  the  bunk 
side,  and  not  do  any  hunting  about  the  room. 

This  went  on  for  a  long  time.  The  boy  saying  nothing  to 
anyone.  When  there  was  to  be  company  in  the  cabin  he  had  a 
piece  of  board  that  he  would  place  over  the  crack,  after  drop- 
ping a  few  crumbs  through  for  his  pet. 

One  stormy  night  all  the  bunks  were  occupied,  and  a-  bed 
for  two  spread  on  the  floor,  with  the  foot  towards  the  fire.  The 
boy  had  forgot  to  place  the  board  over  the  crack.  He  was  very 
tired  and  was  soon  asleep.  There  had  been  a  good  big  fire,  but 
was  now  a  bed  of  live  coals.  After  all  was  quiet  the  cat  came  up 
and  finding  no  food  in  the  usual  place,  proceeded  to  search  for 
something  to  eat.  In  doing  so  it  crawled  across  one  of  the  men's 
legs.  The  weight  of  the  animal  awaked  him  and  not  knowing 
what  it  was,  drew  both  his  legs  up  as  far  as  he  could,  and  then 
kicked  them  back  as  hard  as  he  could  kick.  Well  he  had  done 
It  in  fine  shape,  for  he  sent  the  cat  plunging  into  the  fire,  at 
same  time  sayin?,  "What  in  H is  in  here?" 

"Darn  your  eyes,"  said  Johnny,  you  have  done  it.     Now  you 


274 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

can  pick  up  your  bed  and  get  out  of  here.  And  that  is  just  what 
all  hands  did  too,  and  lost  no  time  in  doing  it.  They  had  to 
make  temporary  shelter  for  the  night,  as  it  was  raining.  We  got 
the  hose  to  work  and  give  the  house  a  good  drenching,  and  after- 
wards a  good  coat  of  lime  whitewash.  But  it  was  over  two 
months  before  we  could  use  that  room  to  sleep  in  again.  Johnny 
and  the  man  that  done  the  kicking,  were  never  good  friends 
again. 


71.— THE  SAND  HILL  CRANES. 

I  had  been  on  a  trail  where  there  was  quite  a  number  of 
horse  tracks  all  leading  to  the  north.  I  had  satisfied  myself  that 
they  were  made  by  Indian  ponys  passing  that  way,  all  of  a  week 
before  and  possible  longer.  So  had  left  the  trail  and  was  cross- 
ing a  desert  valley  of  about  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  in  width. 

I  was  about  in  the  middle  of  this  valley  when  I  noticed  to 
the  north  of  me  and  about  a  mile  distance  what  appeared  to  be 
a  couple  of  horsemen  that  were  up  to  some  game,  for  they  would 
go  this  way,  then  that  way,  crossing  each  other,  then  sometimes 
dropping  most  out  of  sight.  This  getting  out  of  sight  1  thought 
was  by  them  going  through  a  swayle  or  low  place.  The  other, 
or  crossing,  I  thought  might  be  by  their  coming  along  a  crooked 
trail  that  would  make  it  appear  to  me  that  they  were  crossing 
first  one  way  and  the  other. 

But  there  was  something  else  that  I  saw  that  set  me  to 
thinking  pretty  hard,  and  that  was  every  little  while  one  or  both 
of  the  horsemen  would  hold  their  blankets  by  two  corners  and 
raise  them  above  their  heads  and  work  their  arms  back  and  forth 
like  wings.  What  was  this?  If  not  to  call  my  attention  to  them, 
while  probably  another  party  was  sneaking  up  from  some  other 
direction  to  spring  a  surprise  on  me.  But  I  could  see  no  signs  of 
danger  in  any  such  direction,  so  going  slowly  to  save  my  horse 
for  a  fast  run,  if  it  should  be  necessary,  I  kept  good  watch  of  the 
two  horsemen.  They  did  not  seem  to  get  any  nearer  to  me 
but  kept  up  their  antics. 

I  was  some  puzzled  over  the  affair,  as  I  had  never  seen  or 
even  heard  of  anything  like  this,  and  as  to  what  would  happen 
next  I  did  not  know,  but  was  determined  to  not  be  caught  asleep, 
every  toot  of  the  country  I  was  to  travel  over  I  seached  well  with 
my  eyes  before  venturing  toward  it,  but  there  was  no  place  for 
miles  in  any  direction  where  there  could  be  laid  an  ambush  with- 
out digging  and  common  sense  told  me  that  an  Indian  would 
not  do  that  for  how  could  they  tell  which  way  I  would  come  or 
go.  I  did  not  know  myself.  It  was  all  according  to  circum- 
stances. 

I  knew  that  I  had  about  fifteen  miles  to  go  to  get  to  my 
home  station,  and,  if  headed  off  in  that  direction  I  could  reach 
another  station  by  going  to  the  right  about  twenty  miles.  It 
was  now  past  noon  and  I  was  just  going  to  travel  faster,  when 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 275 

a  cloud  came  over  the  sun  and  put  an  end  to  the  Mirage.  It 
was  nothing  more  than  two  sandhill  cranes  feeding  and  exer- 
cising themselves  by  stretching  their  wings. 


72.— THE  INDIAN  STORY  OF  A  GREAT  f  AVE. 

I  first  got  this  from  a  young  buck  and  just  enough  to  cause 
me  to  want  to  hear  all  there  was  to  it,  and  I  told  the  young  man  so. 
He  said  there  were  some  old  men  that  knew  all  about  it,  and  he 
would  tell  me  who  they  were  as  soon  as  he  could.  Some  time 
later  I  was  at  the  Indian  camp  that  was  near  the  station  taking 
lessons  in  their  dialect.  When  the  young  man  came  in  and 
said  there  was  an  old  man  over  there  in  another  wig-warn,  that 
could  tell  me  about  the  big  cave.  I  was  soon  over  there  and 
after  a  friendly  smoke.  This  is  what  he  said  as  near  as  I  can 
remember:  v 

"There  was  camped  at  the  very  south  end  of  the  Schell  Creek 
range  of  mountains  a  large  band  of  Indians,  and  a  little  ways 
from  the  camp  was  a  large  knowl.  In  the  side  of  it  was  a  cave 
that  no  one  had  ever  been  to  the  end  of,  and  in  fact  none  would 
try  to  explore  it,  on  account  of  it  being  said  that  the  bad  spirit 
lived  there,  and  killed  all  who  entered  very  far  inside. 

The  chief  of  this  band  of  Indians  had  two  squaws,  one  was 
quite  old  and  cross,  the  other  was  very  young  and  gentle  and 
good  looking,  but  the  two  squaws  were  most  always  quarrel- 
ing, and  the  chief  had  frequently  given  the  old  one  a  good 
thrashing,  thinking  she  was  to  be  blamed  for  being  so  cross 
but  the  time  came  when  he  thought  he  would  try  whipping 
the  young  one,  but  first  asked  her  why  she  could  not  get  along 
with  out  quarreling  with  the  old  lady.  She  said  the  other 
woman  was  always  scolding  her  for  not  working  harder  and 
thereby  making  it  lighter  work  for  her  and  if  he  didn't  make 
her  stop  her  growling,  she  would  run  away  as  she  was  tired  of 
living  this  way. 

That  kind  of  talk  made  the  Chief  very  mad  so  he  gave  the 
young  squaw  a  very  hard  whipping,  using  his  horse  whip  and 
holding  her  by  the  hair  of  her  head  while  he  laid  the  whip  on 
till  the  blood  had  started  out  most  all  over  her,  then  throwing 
her  to  one  side  said  now  let  us  have  peace  or  there  will  be 
something  worse  coming. 

That  night  the  sore  little  squaw  took  some  dried  meat  and 
a  few  pine  nuts  and  went  to  the  cave  determined  to  go  as  far  in 
as  the  bad  spirit  would  allow  her  to  go,  and,  if  she  did  not 
see  him,  to  go  as  far  as  she  had  strength  to  crawl  as  she  never 
wanted  to  go  back  or  have  the  Indians  find  her  body  if  they 
tried  to  do  so. 

For  somp  distance  the  floor  of  the  cave  was  covered  with 
sand  that  laid  in  small  wave  like  ridges  and  on  the  whole  nearly 
level,  but  further  on  took  a  steep  grade  down  for  a  long  way, 
then  a  nearly  level  stretch,  then  again  down  grade,  this  kept 


276  PIONEERING     THE    WEST 

on  she  did  not  know  how  long,  for  when  she  got  tired  she  would 
lie  down  and  sleep,  and  when  she  woke  up  would  continue  feel- 
ing her  way  down.  . 

She  had  no  idea  how  far  she  was  from  the  mouth  of  the 
cave  when  she  stepped  into  a  pool  of  water  that  came  nearly  up 
to  her  knees  and  was  cold  as  ice.  She  felt  around  and  found 
there  was  quite  a  stream  that  was  running  out  of  the  spring 
on  the  opposite  side  and  she  could  hear  a  small  waterfall  a 
little  farther  down.  She  soon  made  her  way  to  this  fall  and 
over  it  and  down  the  creek. 

This  went  on  for  a  long  time,  her  food  had  all  been  eaten 
and  she  expected  to  soon  have  to  give  up  and  die,  but  what 
was  this  under  her  feet  so  soft?  It  was  grass.  She  tried  to 
eat  some  of  it  but  it  did  not  taste  good,  so  went  on  and  when 
tired  out  laid  down  beside  the  creek  to  sleep,  and  lying  on 
her  back  opened  her  eyes  and  saw  that  there  was  stars  above 
her  and  in  watching  these  discovered  there  were  clouds  up  there 
to  and  this  kept  her  awake  for  a  long  time,  but  she  did  sleep 
again  and  then  was  awakened  by  some  thing  running  by  her. 

She  found  it  was  day  light  and  the  sun  was  coming  up  over 
the  hills  and  she  could  now  hear  birds  singing,  and  she  saw 
numerous  wild  animals  the  like  of  which  she  had  never  seen 
before.  Every  where  she  looked  the  ground  was  covered  all 
over  with  grass,  bushes,  and  trees.  Any  where  else  in  her  life, 
she  had  not  seen  such  a  beautiful  country  not  even  in  small 
patches,  having  lived  in  a  desert  country. 

Hunger  caused  her  to  look  around  to  see  if  s*e  could  find 
any  berries  or  roots  that  she  could  eat.  Going  on  down  the 
creek  she  found  there  was  plenty  of  berries  and  many  kinds 
that  she  had  never  seen  before,  some  very  large,  and  others 
very  small.  She  eat  of  them  such  as  tasted  good  until  satis- 
fied. Then  went  on  still  following  the  winding  brook. 

She  had  not  traveled  over  a  half  a  sun  when  she  saw  a  large 
herd  of  very  white  animals  feeding  on  a  large  open  space  where 
there  was  nothing  but  fine  grass.  She  had  never  seen  any  ani- 
mals like  these.  They  were  not  as  tall  as  an  antelope,  nor 
as  little  as  a  coyote.  They  were  covered  all  over  with  long 
curley  hair,  and  as  she  drew  near  to  them  they  raised  their 
heads  and  looked  at  her,  then  went  on  with  their  feeding,  and 
seemed  to  know  that  she  was  not  dangerous.  While  watching 
these  animals,  she  saw  something  else  that  gave  her  quite  a 
scare.  It  was  a  man  and,  as  he  had  seen  her  and  was  coming 
towards  her  there  was  no  use  in  running  away,  so  she  stood 
still  but  watching  to  see  if  he  was  freindly  or  not.  He  came 
up  pretty  close  and  stopped  then  spoke  to  her  in  a  language  she 
had  never  heard  and  could  not  understand. 

After  some  time  he  seemed  to  know  that  she  was  of  some 
other  people,  and  was  lost,  and  was  "probably  hungry,  so  put- 
ting one  hand  on  his  stomach  and  the  other  pointing  to  his 
mouth  then  pointing  down  the  brook  motioned  for  her  to  fol- 
low him,  which  she  did  as  he  seemed  very  friendly. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 277 

After  going  some  distance  they  came  to  where  a  broad  trail 
led  to  the  door  of  a  hig  house  that  had  four  or  five  other  houses 
inside  of  it,  and  in  the  sides  of  all  of  them  were  big  holes  that 
had  something  over  them  that  kept  the  wind  and  rain  out,  bat 
you  could  see  outside  through  them.  In  every  house  the  ground 
was  covered  with  wood  and  the  whole  houses  seemed  to  be 
made  of  wood  with  different  kinds  and  colors  of  paint.  There 
were  places  to  sit  on,  places  to  eat  on,  and  places  to  sleep  on, 
all  very  beautiful  to  look  at. 

The  man  went  to  one  of  the  walls  and  opened  a  door  that  did 
not  open  clear  through  the  wall  and  brought  out  some  meat 
that  was  cooked  and  some  very  white  bread  and  some  yellow 
grease,  and  a  pan  of  berries,  a  cup  of  sugar  and  put  these  on 
the  place  to  eat  on,  then  got  some  water  in  a  cup  you  could  see 
through.  Then  motioned  for  her  to  sit  there,  and  he  sat  op- 
posite, all  the  time  talking  in  a  kind  voice. 

He  would  point  to  some  thing  and  say  one  word,  and  keep 
saying  it  till  she  would  repeat  it,  when  he  would  laugh  and 
seemed  much  pleased.  She  knew  that  he  was  trying  to  teach 
her  to  talk  his  language  and  she  was  anxious  to  learn,  and  it 
was  not  long  before  she  was  able  to  ask  questions  and  under- 
stand the  answers.  She  slept  in  one  of  the  inside  houses  and 
the  man  in  another.  The  man  done  all  the  cooking  for  a  long 
time,  or  until  she  had  learned  to  talk  well,  and  also  how  the 
cooking  was  done.  Then  she  took  hold  of  that  part,  which  left 
the  man  more  time  to  attend  to  his  flocks  and  herds  of  which 
he  had  a  good  many.  Some  days  he  would  take  her  out  with 
him  to  get  the  fresh  air  and  view  the  country,  and  at  such  times 
she  could  see  scattered  around  at  quite  a  distance  numerous 
houses  like  the  one  where  she  lived  and  could  also  see  many 
herds  of  different  kinds  of  animals.  When  she  asked  the  man 
if  friendly  people  lived  there  he  said  yes.  It  is  a  very  big 
country  and  all  over  it  just  like  it  is  as  far  as  you  can  see. 

One  day  the  man  dressed  himself  in  finer  clothes  and  told 
the  girl  he  was  going  away,  but  would  come  back  by  sun- 
down. He  was  back  by  the  time,  called  the  girl  to  come  and  see 
what  he  had  brought  for  her.  It  proved  to  be  a  dress  that  would 
reach  from  neck  to  ankles,  and  cover  the  arms  too.  It  was 
covered  most  all  over  with  different  colored  beads  which  were 
put  on  so  as  to  show  trees,  birds,  etc.  and  was  very  beautiful 
to  look  at.  There  were  some  leggings  and  shoes  all  finished  off 
with  beads  like  the  dress.  She  was  much  pleased  with  the  pre- 
sent as  her  own  clothes  were  badly  worn.  The  man  told 
her  to  put  them  on  and  wear  them  every  day,  and  after  a  while 
would  get  her  another  and  better  outfit. 

One  day  he  called  her  to  set  down,  and  as  she  could  talk 
good  enough  to  make  him  understand,  to  tell  him  her  story 
of  where  she  came  from  and  how  and  all  about  her  people,  as  he 
was  satisfied  she  was  not  of  his  country.  So  she  commenced 
her  story  form  the  time  she  could  first  remember,  up  to  the 


278 PIONEERING      THE      WEST 

time  her  husband  had  whipped  her,  which  seemed  to  make  the 
man  very  mad. 

He  frequently  asked  her  questions  as  she  was  telling  her 
story.  Then  when  she  was  telling  of  her  running  away  and 
entering  the  cave  to  die  he  was  all  excited  as  there  was  an  old 
story  in  his  country  that  the  cave  had  another  opening  far  in 
the  mountains  that  led  to  a  bad  country. 

Well,  she  ended  her  story,  after  telling  all  that  happened  to 
her  up  to  the  time  she  met  him.  He  knew  the  rest.  One  day 
he  took  her  out  to  the  side  of  the  great  trees,  where  he  sat  down 
and  said  three  years  ago  I  had  a  wife,  she  died  and  is  laying 
there  pointing  to  a  small  mound  near  him  and  two  years  more 
must  pass,  before  I  can  marry  again,  as  that  is  our  custom  here. 
Then  maybe  I  will  talk  to  you  about  it. 

One  day  some  time  later  he  found  the  girl  sitting  out  in 
the  shade  she  was  crying  and  sobbing  like  her  heart  would 
break.  After  a  good  deal  of  coaxing  she  told  him  she  was 
thinking  about  her  husband  and  her  boy,  and  wanted  to  see 
them  again  at  least  her  boy  that  was  one  year  old  when  she 
left  them.  The  man  seemed  very  much  depressed  but  said, 
your  husband  is  no  good  I  wouldn't  cry  for  him,  but  I  do  not 
blame  you  for  wanting  to  see  your  boy,  and  if  there  was  any 
way  to  help  you  get  him  I  would,  but  there  is  no  way,  so  try  and 
forget  them.  And  soon  she  was  crying  most  of  the  time,  till  at 
last  she  told  the  man  if  he  would  let  her  go  she  would  try  and 
go  back  the  way  she  had  come,  and  get  her  boy. 

The  man  tried  to  make  her  understand  that  it  would  be 
impossible  for  her  to  find  her  way  back.  But  she  was  deter- 
mined to  make  the  attempt.  So  seeing  that  he  could  not  per- 
suade her  to  his  views,  he  told  her  that  if  she  was  bound  to 
take  the  chance  of  getting  back  through  that  awful  hole,  he 
would  help  her  all  he  could  but  would  not  go  one  step  inside 
of  the  cave  to  save  his  own  life  or  her's  either.  So  as  she  wanted 
to  start  at  once  they  both  began  getting  together  such  articles 
as  they  thought  would  help  her  to  make  the  journey  through  the 
care. 

The  man  got  a  small  bundle  of  grease  tourches  any  one  of 
which  would  burn  a  whole  day,  and  advised  the  girl  to  use  as 
few  as  possible  while  she  had  the  creek  to  follow,  and  after  leav- 
ing the  spring  at  the  head  of  the  creek  might  be  able  to  trace  her 
steps  back  if  she  had  light  enough.  Well,  one  day  when  they 
could  think  of  nothing  that  would  help  her,  the  man  went  with 
her  to  where  the  creek  came  out  of  the  mountains  tried  again 
to  have  her  give  up  such  an  awful  undertaking,  but  as 
she  would  go,  made  her  promise  that  if  she  could  not  find  her 
way  out  at  the  other  end,  or  did  get  through  and  found  her 
boy  she  would  come  back  to  him  and  he  would  wait  two  years 
for  her. 

So  they  parted,  the  man  to  his  peaceful  home,  the  girl  to 
the  dismal  cave,  where,  after  a  very  long  time,  and  her  pro- 
visions were  about  all  used  up,  and  the  torches  all  burned  out, 


PIONEERING     THE      WEST 279 

she  came  to  the  light  of  day,  and  about  noon.  She  climbed  a 
small  hill  where  she  could  view  the  country  around  her  at  least 
some  distance  away  discovered  a  smoke  that  showed  her  where 
there  was  a  camp  of  Indians. 

She  went  to  it  and  found  it  to  be  her  husband's  band  who 
was  all  very  much  surprised  to  see  her  again  and  alive,  and 
dressed  so  fine  and  looking  as  pretty  as  ever,  only  tired  out, 
and  whiter  than  when  she  left  them.  The  old  woman  had  died 
while  she  was  gone.  Her  husband  said  he  would  never  whip 
her  again  and  she  must  come  and  live  with  him  and  the  boy, 
which  she  did." 

There  is  another  Indian  story  about  that  same  cave,  of  how 
a  small  band  of  Indians  lived  near  it,  and  was  attacked  by  a  large 
band  of  strange  and  hostile  Indians,  that  was  determined  to 
kill  all  of  the  men  and  children  and  keep  the  squaws  for  ser- 
vants. They  had  a  running  fight  and  all  that  were  not  killed 
took  refuge  in  this  cave.  Their  enemy  placed  a  guard  near  the 
entrance  to  prevent  any  from  escaping  and  they  were  determined 
to  kill  or  capture  the  whole  band.  But  after  keeping  their  guards 
there  for  a  whole  moon,  and  not  seeing  or  hearing  of  any  one  that 
had  went  in  they  came  to  the  conclusion  that  all  had  starved  to 
death.  So  they  went  in  to  investigate,  and  could  plainly  see 
the  tracks  of  the  fleeing  party  all  pointing  further  in,  not  one  had 
turned  back.  This  was  enough,  all  had  gone  to  their  heaven 
or  their  hell. 

Now  a  white  man  story  about  this  same  cave.  We  had  a 
number  of  men  hired  for  haying  season,  and  among  them  were 
some  that  had  lived  in  the  settlements  south  of  Utah  Lake.  I 
had  been  telling  a  bunch  of  them  some  of  What  the  Indians  had 
told  me  about  this  cave,  when  one  of  the  men  said  there  must 
be  something  in  it,  for  I  beared  a  man  down  south  say  he  was 
acquainted  with  some  of  the  party  that  done  some  exploring 
there. 

The  party  were  returning  from  California  and  making  a  cut 
off  across  the  desert,  when  they  camped  near  and  discovered  the 
cave.  Some  of  the  party  went  in  quite  a  long  ways,  but  had  to 
retreat  as  their  light  gave  out.  Then  they  made  a  number  of 
torches  and  with  what  lighting  material  they  had,  attempted  to 
again  reach  the  far  end  of  the  cave.  There  were  many  leads  off 
to  the  sides  but  only  one  led  down,  kept  one  general  direction. 
By  following  this,  and  just  as  they  were  about  to  back  out 
going  any  further,  they  came  to  a  spring  of  nice  clear  and 
pure  water.  The  stream  from  which  ran  on  down  into  the 
cave.  There  seemed  to  be  plenty  of  room  to  follow  it  but 
they  could  not  at  that  time. 

All  said  they  would  go  to  the  settlements  and  provide  them- 
selves with  the  means  of  finding  the  end  of  that  cave  if  it 
took  them  six  months  to  do  it.  I  know  that  a  good  many  men 
have  been  willing  at  any  time  to  go  and  explore  it.  But  there 
was  always  lacking  a  leader  that  would  go  ahead  and  organize 
a  party  for  that  purpose. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


73.—  A    PONY    EXPRESS  RIDER'S    EXPERIENCE    IN    1860. 

Richard  Erastus  Egan  better  known  in  boyhood  days  as 
"Ras"  Egan,  born  in  Salem  Mass.  March  29th  1842,  was  employed 
in  April  1860  to  ride  Pony  Express  between  Salt  Lake  City  and 
Rush  Valley  station,  a  distance  of  seventy  five  miles.  He  made 
the  first  trip  on  the  west  bound  express  on  the  famous  and  beau- 
tiful sorrel  mare  "Miss  Lightning"  making  the  first  station  twen- 
ty two  miles  in  one  hour  and  five  minutes. 

The  scheduled  time  for  the  seventy  five  miles  was  five 
and  one-half  hours  though  it  was  made  once  in  four  hours  and 
five  minutes  when  the  President's  message  was  going  through 
called  by  the  boys  the  "Lightening  Express."  At  first  the  ride 
seemed  long  and  a  tiresome  one  but  after  becoming  accustomed 
to  that  kind  of  riding  it  seemed  only  play,  but  there  were  times 
when  it  didn't  seem  so  very  playful.  For  instance.  I  was 
married  January  1st  1861,  and  of  course  naturally  wanted  a 
short  furlough,  but  was  only  permited  to  substitute  a  rider  for  one 
trip,  and  the  poor  fellow  thought  that  was  plenty. 

I  had  warned  him  about  the  horse  he  would  start  with  from 
"Rush"  on  his  return  trip  telling  him  that  he  would  either  "back" 
or  fall  over  backwards  when  he  got  on  him.  "Oh!"  said  he,  "I  am 
used  to  that  kind  of  business.  "But"  said  I  "Bucking  Bally  is  a 
whole  team  and  a  horse  to  let  and  a  little  dog  under  the  wagon, 
be  careful.  So  as  a  precaution  after  he  had  tightned  the  saddle 
on  he  led  him  out  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  station  and 
got  on,  when  the  horse  true  to  his  habit  got  busy,  and  the  next 
thing  the  rider  knew  he  was  hanging  by  the  back  of  his  overcoat 
on  a  high  stake  of  a  stake  and  rider  fence  with  his  feet  about 
five  feet  from  the  ground. 

He  could  not  reach  behind  him  to  unhitch  himself.  He  could 
not  unbutton  his  coat  so  as  to  crawl  out  of  it,  but  he  could  get 
his  hands  in  his  pockets  for  his  knife  to  cut  the  buttons  off  and 
release  himself,  after  which  was  a  search  for  the  horse  on  the 
dark  night.  He  finally  found  him  and  made  the  trip,  getting 
"a  black  eye"  for  loss  of  time.  He  said  to  the  boys,  "No  more 
'Bucking  Bally'  for  me." 


74.— A    RATHER    UNPLEASANT    EXPERIENCE. 

Shortly  after  my  marriage  in  the  winter  the  time  of  arrival  of 
the  Pony  Express  from  St.  Joseph  was  uncertain  on  account  of 
deep  snow  in  the  Rockies.  So  one  night  when  I  was  supposed 
to  remain  in  the  office  waiting,  the  hostler  through  sympathy 
said  you  go  home  to  your  new  wife  and  if  the  express  comes 
I  will  jump  on  a  horse  and  come  after  you.  Of  course  I  ac- 
cepted. Oh!  what  luck!  About  midnight  here  comes  the  pesky 
fellow  and  I  had  to  jump  out  of  a  snug  warm  bed  and  start  of 
In  a  howling  blizzard  to  ride  seventy  five  miles. 

The  cold  was  almost  unbearable,  but,  through  the  kindness  of 


PIONEERING     THE    WEST  •       281 

a  friend  who  took  me  in  for  an  hour  and  warmed  up  my  almost 
freezing  body  I  pulled  through  O.  K. 

On  another  accasion  I  rode  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Fort  Crit- 
tenden,  a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  then  started  at  sun  down  for 
Rush  Valley  in  a  very  heavy  snow  storm,  and  the  snow  knee 
deep  to  my  horse.  I  could  see  no  road,  so  that,  as  soon  as  dark- 
ness came  on,  I  had  to  depend  entirely  on  the  wind.  It  was  strik- 
ing on  my  right  cheek,  so  I  kept  it  there,  but,  unfortunately 
for  me,  the  wind  changed  and  led  me  off  my  course,  and  instead 
of  going  westward  I  went  southward  and  rode  all  night  on  a 
high  trot,  and  arrived  at  the  place  I  had  left  at  sundown  the 
evening  before  with  both  myself  and  horse  very  tired. 

Now  the  only  thing  to  do  was  to  jump  on  to  the  horse  1  had 
rode  in  the  evening  before  and  proceed  on  twenty  five  miles  fur- 
ther. Then,  instead  of  having  a  night's  rest  at  my  home  station, 
I  was  riding  all  night,  in  consequence  of  which  I  met  the  "Pony" 
from  Sacramento  and  was  compelled  to  start  immediately  on 
my  eastward  trip  ttr  Salt  Lake  City.  This  made  my  continuous 
ride  150  miles  besides  all  night  in  deep  snow. 

Just  one  more  incident.  My  brother-in-law  was  riding  west 
from  me  and  had  a  sweetheart  in  Salt  Lake  City  whom  he  desired 
to  see,  but  could  get  no  leave  of  absence  to  go  see  her  and  I 
naturally  had  sympathy  for  him*  so  we  got  our  heads  together 
and  agreed  to  accidently  (on  purpose)  pass  each  other  in  the 
night  and  he  would  have  to  ride  his  route  and  continue  on  mine. 
But  he  had  all  night  in  Salt  Lake  to  rest  or  spark  as  he  choose 
and  return  the  double  route  next  trip. 

But  with  me  it  was  different  for  after  I  had  rode  the  double 
route,  165  miles  I  met  the  "Pony"  from  west  and  had  to  turn 
.  around  without  any  rest  and  ride  over  the  double  route  again, 
making  a  continuous  ride  of  330  miles  and  again  I  was  tired. 

On  this  same  route  the  Indians  had  attacked  the  stage,  killed 
the  driver  and  a  passenger,  rifled  the  U.  S.  Mail  and  took  the 
four  horses  and  when  I  came  along,  one  lone  Indian  with  rifle  and 
bow  and  arrows  started  after  me.  But  I  thought  I  had  the 
best  horse,  so  played  along  just  out  of  easy  gun  shot  from  him. 
Finally  I  thought  I  would  play  a  bluff  on  him,  which  worked  as 
I  thought  it  would. 

I  turned  and  run  at  him  full  speed,  swinging  my  pistol  and 
yelling  at  the  top  of  my  voice.  He  immediately  left  the  road  kick- 
ing and  whipping  his  pony  and  kept  it  up  as  far  as  I  could  see 
him. 

The  agent,  to  encourage  the  boys  to  make  good  time,  said  to 
them,  "Boys  if  you  kill  a  horse  by  riding  fast  we  will  buy  a  better 
one. 

One  trip  I  was  riding  a  lovely  rangey  bay,  $300.00  horse  at  a  2U 
mile  an  hour  clip,  when  the  poor  animal  missed  his  footing  and 
fell,  breaking  his  neck  and  almost  sent  me  to  St.  Joseph.  When 
I  gathered  myself  up  and  found  my  horse  dead,  I  had  to  walk 
about  five  miles  and  carry  my  saddle  and  express  matter  and 
so  registered  another  tired.  — R.  E.  Egan. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


75.— "CONCLUSION. 

We  realize  that  so  far  this  book  does  not  contain  a  complete 
Biography  of  either  Major  or  Howard  R.  Egan;  but  we  are 
very  desirous  to  preserve  in  type  these  writings  as  far  as  they  go, 
and  as  the  limits  of  the  book  are  very  near  to  a  close  we  can 
only  add  in  conclusion  a  few  words  to  show  some  completness 
to  it. 

Will  say  first  that  Howard  R.  Egan,  the  principal  writer 
and  publisher  of  the  forgoing  had  some  matters  to  write  about 
that  has  not  yet  been  submitted,  and  many  things  should  be 
said  yet.  In  brief  we  will  state:  that  in  1870  he  closed  up 
business  with  Father  and  the  Deep  Creek  branch  and  left  there, 
going  to  Richmond,  Cache  County,  Utah.  Near  there  he  and  I 
took  up  a  quarter  section  each  of  land.  He  bought  a  saw  mill 
in  High  Creek  Canyon  and  run  it  for  a  number  of  years,  also 
other  saw  mills  afterwards  and  he  died  in  March  1916.  Many  of 
his  activities  there  must  await  some  later  date  to  be  made  known. 

A  small  brief  has  been  made  of  R.  Erastus  Egan  on  page  214 
and  we  will  now  give  a  statement  of  the  conclusion  of  Mother's 
family,  Ira  E.  Egan,  who  was  the  last  born,  Feb.  5th  1861,  in  Salt 
Lake  City  and  lived  through  his  ^arly  life  there,  got  his  schooling 
and  was  messenger  boy  for  the  Telegraph  Company.  He  mar- 
ried and  raised  a  family  (See  Appendix)  and  is  now  living  near 
Smithfield,  Cache  County  where  he  has  a  home. 

Mother's  Children  were  six  in  number,  one  died  a  baby,  and 
Hoarce  died  ,in  Salt  Lake  City  at  the  age  of  fifteen.  The  rest 
are  alive  Howard  R.,  R.  Erastus,  William,  and  Ira  (See  Appendix 

Nancy,  the  second  wife  had  two  daughters,  Helen  J.  who 
married  and  raised  a  large  family,  Vilate  L.,  who  died  some 
time  after  Horace  and  they  were  both  buried  in  the  Salt 
Lake  City  Cemetery  where  Father  had  the  lot  fenced  with 
cut  sand  stone  and  an  Iron  fence  hammered  out  of  old  wagon 
tire  by  R.  B.  Margets. 

Hyrum  W.  Egan  was  a  son  of  Mary,  the  third  wife.  He 
married  at  Deep  Creek  and  raised  a  family,  (See  Appendix).  He 
moved  to  Goose  Creek  or  Basin,  Idaho,  and  died  there.  His  wife 
and  family  are  now  living  at  Burley,  Idaho  and  have  quite  a 
posterity. 

When  the  immigrants  came  in  with  trains  each  season 
and  also  with  the  hand  cart  companies  there  was  much  suffer- 
ing for  want  of  the  necessaries  of  life  which  they  were  entire- 
ly deficient  of,  during  the  early  years  after  first  ones  began  to 
arrive.  This  would  have  been  much  greater  but  for  the  bene- 
volence of  those  that  were  here  who  were  able  to  help  them. 
Father  was  doing  well  during  this  period  with  his  beef  trado 
in  California  and  Mother  had  means  to  use  and  being  naturally 
very  benevolent  she  helped  them  a  great  deal.  We  were  situa- 
ted close  to  the  Union  Square  on  which  they  could  get  some 
better  quarters. 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


I  remember  Mother  saying  that  she  kept  an  account  one  sea- 
son and  found  that  she  had  purchased  $1500  worth  of  provisions 
which  she  had  given  emmigrants  of  the  hand  cart  companies 
and  others  that  were  in  need.  She  told  Father  about  it  and 
the  only  comment  he  made  was  "That  is  right  Mother  and  you 
shall  be  blessed  for  your  good  heart." 

After  the  completion  of  the  railroad  from  the  east  to  the 
west  across  the  continent,  the  route  having  been  chosen  north  of 
the  Salt  Lake,  there  was  no  more  use  for  the  Mail  Line  and 
there  was  not  much  left  at  Deep  Creek  for  activity  except  in 
connection  with  the  mines  that  had  been  discovered  during  the 
many  years  that  the  ranch  had  been  in  operation,  so  Father 
turned  his  attention  to  them.  He  seemed  to  be  quite  success- 
ful in  developing  some  good  properties  in  partnership  with  two 
other  men  and  could  have  sold  out  for  $50,000  which  Father 
wanted  to  do,  but  his  partners  wanted  more  and  they  got  no- 
thing, as  all  the  railroad  projects  failed  to  reach  there,  and  as 
the  ore  was  low  grade  it  would  not  pay  to  ship.  The  mines 
failed  to  reimburse  him  for  the  means  he  had  expended  in 
them,  which  was  the  substance  of  the  entire  Deep  Creek  Ranch 
farm  land  etc. 

While  Father  was  working  the  mining  property  he  was 
also  engaged  in  missionary  work  among  the  Indians,  who  were 
induced  through  his  influence  to  settle  down  to  civilzed  life, 
and  have  since  became  quite  successful  in  farming,  for  they 
had  been  used  as  farm  and  hay  hands  many  years  on  the  Deep 
Creek  property  and  now  they  were  shown  how  to  work  for  them- 
selves. He  also  aided  much  in  teaching  them  and  also  impart- 
ing to  them  a  knowledge  of  the  Gospel,  as  well  as  in  good  habits 
of  honesty  and  industry.  June  2,  1874,  one  hundred  Goshute 
Indians  were  baptised  and  there  was  a  general  religious  move- 
ment among  them. 

Having  exhausted  all  his  resources  at  Deep  Creek  Father 
came  to  Salt  Lake  about  1875  and  lived  at  the  old  home  with 
his  family,  (what  were  left  at  home.)  He  became  one  of  the 
Salt  Lake  Police  and  also  Deputy  Sheriff  both  of  which  ap- 
pointments we  now  have  in  our  possession. 

He  also  became  a  special  guard  for  Pres.  Brigham  Young 
at  the  Lion  House  and  Church  Offices  before  and  at  the  time 
of  Pres.  Brigham  Young's  last  illness  and  acted  as  special  nurse, 
in  which  capacity  he  had  many  times  acted  before  in  various 
cases,  and  was  often  called  doctor.  Brigham  Young  would  tell 
him  to  get  him  a  pitcher  of  cold  water  and  pump  it  full  forty 
times.  Many  other  little  attentions  he  would  render  for  him. 
After  the  death  of  Pres.  Young  Father  was  the  special  guard  at 
his  grave,  and  a  building  was  erected  so  that  he  could  look 
out  on  the  grave  any  time  of  night,  without  getting  out  of  bed, 
by  the  light  that  was  kept  burning. 

Pres.  Young  died  Aug.  29th,  1877,  and  in  March  1878  Father 
got  his  feet  wet  one  dark  night  and  took  sick,  which  resulted  in 
inflamation  of  the  bowels,  and  died  at  the  age  of  sixty-three. 


284 


IONEER1NG     THE    WEST 


Mother  lived  till  March  31st,  1905,  and  Father's  papers  were 
kept  until  then,  but  after  that  many  of  them  were  destroyed. 

If  all  his  life  work  were  written  it  would  take  many  volumes 
to  contain  it.  The  Pioneer  Monument  was  erected  to  the  honor 
of  the  band  of  Pioneers  of  which  he  was  a  member  and  his  name 
appears  with  the  rest  upon  it. 

This  year,  1915,  the  great  Capitol  of  the  State  of  Utah, 
has  been  finished,  as  if  in  memory  of  the  one  hundreth  anniver- 
sary of  the  birth  of  Major  Howard  Egan,  but  at  least  repre- 
senting the  grand  advancement  of  the  great  commonwealth  of 
which  with  other  Pioneers  he  played  so  prominent  a  part  in 
laying  the  foundation;  and  it  was  on  this  anniversary  of  his 
birth  we  commenced  to  publish  this  volume,  and  expect  in  the 
near  future  to  build  a  monument  in  honor  of  his  name. 


Kagle   Gate,   Beehive   House,   Church    Offices*   and    Lion    House.   Where    Brist 
Voting;   Lived  and   Where   He   Died. 


PIONEERING     THE    W  K  S  T 


285 


APPENDIX 


GENEALOGY 

From  Adam  to  the  Stem  of  the  Egan  Family.    Of  this  line  are  the 
Kings  and  rulers  of  Judah,  of  Spain,  Ireland,  England, 
Scotland,    Wales    and    others. 


1..  .Adam     m     Eve 


2.  Seth    m 


Abel 


3.  Enos,  4  Cainan  5  Ma- 
halaleel,  6  Jared,  7  Enoch,  8 
Mathuselah,  9  Lamech,  10 

Noah     m     

J 

Gen.    X. 

11  Shem,  12  Arphaxad,  13 
13  Salah,  14  Ebner,  15  Peleg, 
16  Reu,  17  Serug,  18  Nahor,  19 
Terah. 


Cain    m     Brother's    Dau. 

|        Gen.  V. 

Cain's  prosterity  in  the 
Land  of  Nod.  Destroyed  by 
flood  with  others  except  Noah. 


Ham 

Egyptian 
and  other 
nations 


ipht 


(Irish  Chart) 

(  Sarah 

).  Abraham     m    ]  Hager 

|     f  Keturah 
Gen~XXI  -  XXV  "f 

21.   Isaac     m     Rebecca.  Ishmael 
Gen.  XXV     | 


Japheth 
i      Gentile 

peoples 

of  the 
|     World 


22.  Jacob     m 
Gen.  XXIX  -  XXX  I 


Leah, 
Rachel, 


23.  Judah,    Joseph,    Levi 


others 
Arabians,  Armenians,  etc. 


1.  Esau     m     Judith 

•     I 
2  Eliphaz,  3  Amalels  4  Thardu, 

5  Walid. 

Soti  I.  (XIX   Dynasty   of   Pha- 
raohs.) 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


23.  Judah     m      Tamar. 

I 


24.  Zarah  (or  Tara)  25  E- 
than,  (King  of  Scythia)  26  Tua- 
hoi  or  Phonensis  Farsaidh  (in- 
ventor of  letters) 

27.  Gadhol     m    £cota 

(Friend  of  Moses  and 
founder  of  Port  Ga- 
thelas  or  Portugal) 

28.  Asruth,  29  Gruth,  30 
Heber   Scutt,   31   Beouman,   32 
Oggoman,  33  Lamfionn,  34  Heb- 
er Glunfionn,  35  Agnan,  Fion, 
36  Febric  Glas,  37  Mennall,  38 
Nuadhas,  39  Alladh,  40  Aroadh, 
41  Dreag,  42  Brath,  43  Breogan, 
44  Bile 

(  Istd.  of  no.  25 
45.  Mileeus     m  ]  2nd  Scota 

(  3rd  Meriam 
I 

46  Herman,  six  others,  Heber 
Mileseus,-King  of  Spain  or  Gal- 
lam  the  conqueror  of  Ireland 
and  hero  of  1000  battles  had 
eight  sons.  Three  of  them 
reigned  through  their  descen- 
dants  in  the  183  Milesian  Kings 
from  whom  all  Milesian  fa- 
milies are  descended. 

Herman  xEochaidk  (crown- 
ed horsemen)  youngest  son  of 
Mileseus  a  prince  of  Dan, 
through  his  mother,  Meriam 
and  his  grand  father  McGree- 
me  (last  Tuatha  de  Danaan 
King,  see  Irish  History)  as  well 
as  a  prince  of  Judah,  a  knight 
of  the  "Red  Branch,  two  fold 
slmbolized  in  coat  of  arms  by 
two  Red  Lions.  He  was  born 
in  Spain,  educated  in  Ireland 
and  wore  a  seven  colored  kilt. 

These  two  lines  of  Judah  joined  together  by  this  marriage  in 
the  year  of  the  world  3434  A.  M.  constitute  the  "Royal  Arch 
Degree"  of  Free  Masonry,  which  the  prophet  Jeremiah  founded. 


24  Pharez,  25  Easru,  26  Aram, 
27  Amimadob,  28  Nashour,  29 
Salsmon,  30  Boaz,  31  Obed,  32 
Jesse,  33  David,  34  Solomon,  35 
Rehoboam,  36  Obijah,  37  Ada, 
38  Jehosaphat,  40  Ahazieh,  42 
Jotham,  44  Amajiah,  45  Heze- 
kiah,  46  Manasseh,  47  Amon,  48 
Joshiah,  49  Zedekiah —  his  sons 
were  slain,  50  *  Tea  Tephi 
"Tender  twig  of  prophecy" 
youngest  daughter  of  King  Zed- 
ekiah escaped  the  Balylonian 
capitivity  with  her  great 
Grandfather  the  prophet  Jere- 
miah. His  palace  was  Tea- 
mor  the  Palace  of  Tahpam- 
hes  in  Egypt  unearthed  by  Pe- 
tree  Contanis.  A  tradition  of 
Kings  daughter  says:  "The 
stone  on  which  Jacob  slept 
they  carried  with  them.  On 
that  she  was  crowned,  the 
50*th  from  Adam,  Queen  Vic- 
toria 150th,  Queen  Victoria  of 
Spain  153rd,  the  last  of  great 
fishes  in  the  net,  finishing  up 
times  of  Gentiles." 

Jacob's  stone  went  to 
Scotland  in  the  time  of  Per- 
gno.  It  is  now  the  Corna- 
tion  stone  of  Westminister  Ab- 
bey, carried  there  from  Scot- 
land. She  had  met  Herman 
years  before  in  Egypt  and 
when  with  her  great  grand 
father  the  prophet,  she  landed 
in  Ireland,  with  Druedic  cere- 
monial she  and  Herman  were 
married. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 287 

He  also  placed  in  the  mound  of  Tara  Northwest  of  Dublin,  the 
Ark  of  the  Covenant  and  England's  -Title  deeds  to  the  Holy 
Land.  It  is  now  the  property  of  England  and  being  approached 
from  all  sides.  "Britham"  is  the  land  of  the  Covenant,  "Mount 
Ephriam,  the  land  of  Dan  or  "Pridian." 

The  only  child  of  this  marriage  of  Hermon  and  Tea  Tephi 
in  562  B.  C.  was  Irial  the  prophet,  the  ancestor  of  the  Cobb  family 
of  America  and  many  others. 

MILESIAN     KINGS— LINE    OF    HEREMON. 

46  Herman  m  Tea  Tephi,  47  Ireal  Faidh  X.     48  Eithrial,  49- 

I ' | 

Foll-aigh,  50  Tigernmas,  51  Eubotha,  52  Smiorughall,  53  Fiacha 
Labhrainn  XVIII,  54  AEneas  Almucach  XX,  55  Main,  56  Rothac- 
tach  57  Dein,  58  Siorna,  59  Olioll  Aolchevin,  60  Gialchadh  XXX 
VII,  61  Nudahas  Fionnfail,  62  Aedan  Glas,  63  Sioman  Breac 
XLIV,  64  Muredach  Bolgrach  LV,  65  Fiocha  Tolgrach,  66  Duach 
Lodrach,  67  Eochaidh  Buadhach  68  Cobthach  Gaol  Bhreagh  LXIX, 
69  Melg  Molblhach  LXXI,  70  Coula  Caomh  LXXIV,  71  Oliohh  Gas 
Fiaclach  LXXVII,  72  Eochaidh  Alt  Leatham,  73  AEneas  LXXXI, 
74  Enna,  75  Assaman,  76  Eochlaidh  Feidioch  XCIII,  77  Lughaidh 
XCVIII,  78  Crumthann  C,  A.  D.  79  Feredach,  80  Fiacha,  81  Tua- 
thal  CVI,  82  Fedhlimidh,  83  Conn  CIX,  84  Art,  85  Cormac  Ulfha- 
da,  86  Cairbre,  87  Eochardh  Dubhlen. 

88  Colla  da  Chrioch  founder  of  the  Kingdom  of  Orgiall,  O'Car- 
roll,  of  Oriel  and  O'Kelly  (P.  365  O'Hart)  families  of  Neater  and 
princes  of  Hy  Maine,  Kings  of  Orgiall  to  12th  century.  89  lorn- 
chadh,  90  Domhmall,  91  Eochaidh,  92  Main  Mor,  93  Breasal,  94 
Dalian,  95  Lughach,  96  Fearach,  97  Cairbre  Crom  Ris,  98  Cormac, 
99  Eoghan  Foinn,  100  Dithchiollach  101  Denitheach,  102  Fiaca- 
lach. 

103  Coscrach,  head  nf  the  stem  of  the  Egan  Family  heiredi- 
tary  Brehons  or  Lawyers  104  Flaithghead,  105  Anluan,  106  Flai- 
theam  or  Felin,  107  Gosda,  108  Aedhaghan  (eye  Kindle-Anglisized 
Egan)  109  Flann,  110  Murtach,  111  Donach  Mor.  112  Donoch  Oge, 
113  Simeon,  114  Justin;  115  Maloliosa,  116  Flann,  .117  Finghan,. 
118  Owen  McEgan,  119  Teige,  120  Conor,  121  Teige  (2d).  122  Mela- 
chlin  Egan. 

No.  1  to  No.  20  is  taken  from  the  Bible  — From  No.  20> 
Abraham  to  No.  83  Conn  is  quoted  from  the  Chart  from  "Regal- 
Roll,"  "Annals  of  Four  Fasters,"  showing  the  descent  of  the  Car- 
rolls,  Egans  and  other  families  of  Ireland,  England,  Scotland  and 
Wales.  This  is  also  corroborated  in  most  part  by  O'Hart's  "Pe- 
digree of  the  Irish  Nation"  from  which  the  balance  is  quoted 
except  the  serial  numbers.  It  so  happens  that  No.  50  *  Tea 
Tephi  from  Adam  corroborates  the  statements  made  in  the  Chart 
that  she  was  50th  from  Adam. 

I  copy  the  following  words  from  a  Patriarchal  Blessing  given 
Howard  Egan  Sept.  24th,  1842  at  Nauvoo,  111,  by  Hyrum  Smith :- 
"I  place  a  blessing  on  you  consonant  with  your  lineage  and  right 


288 


PIONEERING    THE    WEST 


unto  the  Priesthood  for  behold  I  say  unto  you  Howard,  you  are 

the  lineage  of  David  and  of  the  Tribe  of  Judah you  shall 

have  an  inheritance  in  Mt.   Zion  and   your  house   or   your  po- 
sterity that  cometh  after  you." 


Family  tree,  original  3      \  |  feet.      Reduction  not  readable,  but  is  printed 
in  type  below.     Right   hand   lower   branch   represents   family   No.   17, 
left  branch,  No.  18,  and  so  on  up.      The  limbs  represent  grand- 
children of  Howard   lOitiui.      (Enlarged  photos  can  be  had 
from  R.  D.  Johnson,  photographer.  118   S.   llth  East, 
Salt  I*ke  City.) 


PIONEERING     THE     WES'T 


PEDIGREE  OF  HOWARD  EGAN   FROM    HIS  GRAND   FATHER 
AND    HIS   POSTERITY   TO   THE   PRESENT  TIME 

1.  Benard  Egan  born  about  1760,  married  Betty  Egan  b.  a. 
1762.  Chil.  3.  *  Howard  b.  a.  1782,  4.  *  William  b.  a.  1784, 
all  of  Tullimore  Kings  Co.  Ireland.  - 

3.  Howard  Egan  b.  a.  1782  md.  1805,  5  Ann  Meade  b.  a.  1784, 
d.  1822.  Chil:  6  Eliza  b.  1806.  7  Mary  b.  1807,  8.  Catherine  b. 
1808,  9.  Bernard  b.  a.  1810,  10.  John  b.  a.  1813,  11.  *Howard 
b.  15  June  1815  (author  of  the  Diary  of  this  book)  12.  Ann 
b.  a.  1817,  13.  Richard  b.  1820,  14  Evelina  b.  1822,  15.  Mar- 
garet b.  1822,  in  Tullimore,  Kings  Co.,  Ireland. 


FATHER 


MOTHER 


Howard  Egan,  md  1  Dec.  1836,  16.  Tamson  Parshley  b.  27, 
July  1825.  Chil:  17.  *  Howard  Ransom  b.  12  Apr.  1840,  18.  * 
Richard  Erastus  b.  29  Mar.  1842,  19.  Charles  John  b.  1844  d. 
1845.  20  Horace  Adelbert  b.  12  Aug.  1847,  d.  24  Mar.  1862, 
21.  *William  M.  b.  13  June  1851,  22.  *Ira  Ernest  b.  5  Feb. 
1861,  23.  Nancy  Redding  Egan  (2nd  wife)  md.  1846  at  Nau- 
voo  d.  3  Apr.  1892  Chil:  24.  *Helen  J.  b.  25  Aug.  1847,  25. 
Vilate  L.  b.  13  Oct.  1849,  d.  1866.  26.  Mrs.  Mary  Egan 


290  PIONEERING     THE     WEST 

(3rd  wife)  md.  1849.  Chil:  27.  *Hyrum  Wm.  b.  24  July  1850 
in  Utah  No.  17  and  18  in  Salem,  Mass.  '  19  in  Nauvoo  20 
and  24  in  Winter  Quarters  21,  22  and  25  in  Salt  Lake  City. 


Four   sons   of   Howard    and   TJUIIHOII    Ejfun,   nil    living.      Standing:     Eldest 
son  Howard  R.,  and  youngest  son  Ira  E.     Sitting,  on  the  right: 
R.  EraNtua,  left,  Win.   M.  Egan.     Following  IN  the  descendant*. 


17.  Howard  Ransom  Egan,  md.  10  Oct.  1864,  28.  Amanda  An- 
drus  b.  19  Nov.  1847.  Chil.  Annie  T.  b.  1  Aug.  1864,  d. 
1908,  30..  *Julia  J.  b.  22  Aug.  18C6.  d.  1888,  31.  ^Howard  M. 
b.  28  Nov.  1868,  32.  *Mary  b.  28  June  1871,  d.  1914,  33.  * 
William  J.  b.  24  Aug.  1873,  34.  *John  R.  b.  22  July  1875,  35 
.  Linnie  J.  b.  9  Dec.  1877,  36  *  Charles  E.  b.  23  June 
1880,  37.  *  George  E.  b.  9  July  1883,  38.  *  H.  Walter  b. 
27  August  1885,  39.  *  James  A.  b.  16  Feb.  1888,  40.  *  Inis  P. 


PIONEERING      THE      WEST 


291 


b.  7  Mar.  1890.     No.  29  and  30  Born  in  Salt  Lake 
at  Deep  Creek,  the  rest  at  Richmond,  Cache  Co. 


No.  31 


18.  Richard  Erastus  Egan,  md.  1861,  41.  Mary  Minnie  Fisher  b. 
1844  d.  1887.  Chil:  42.  *Tamson  M.  b.  2  Mar.  1863,  43  *  Eras- 
tus H.  10  Sept.  1864,  44.  Harry  O.  b.  2  Oct.  1866  d.  1879,  45. 
Hoarce  F.  2  Nov.  1867,  46.  *  John  L.  b.  4  Oct  1870,  47.  Wil- 
liam F.  b.  5  Apr.  1872,  48.  Willard  R.  b.  5  Apr.  1872,  49  Joe.  R. 
b.  7  Sept.  1874,  50.  *  Ira  I.  b.  Sept.  1875,  51  *Linnie  J.  b. 
25  Feb.  1878,  52.  *  Mary  b.  5  Feb.  1880,  53.  *  Charles  M.  b. 
27  Aug.  1881,  54.  *  David  b.  13  July  1884.  No.  42  born  in 
Salt  Lake  City  Nos.  43,  44,  46,  47,  48,  49,  and  50  born  in 
Ruby  Valley,  51,  52,  53  and  54  born  in  Bountiful,  Davis 
County.  55,  Mary  Beatrice  Noble  Egan,  (2nd  wife)  md.  1889 
b.  10  Nov.  1864.  Chil:  56.  Harold  E.  b.  23  May  1890,  57.  *Ora 
May  b.  16  Feb.  1892,  58.  *  Nellie  L.  b.  25  Apr.  1894,  59.  Erma 
A.  b.  19  Oct.  1896,  60.  Byron  Noble  b.  26  May  1900.  61  How- 


Ira    Ernest    Egan, 
Youngest  son   of  Howard   Egai 

Smiihfieid.   Utah 


Hyrtisii   Win.  Egan, 

son  of  Howard  and  Mary  Egan.     His 
widow's    address,   Berley,   Ida. 


292 PIONEERING     THE     WEST 

ard  N.  b.  Nov.  1904.     62.  Richard  N.  b.  8  Apr.    1907.     The 
first  six  born  in  Bountiful,  last  in  Byron,  Wyoming. 

21.  William  M.  Egan,  md.  1886,  63.  Ruth  Nichols  b.  7  Feb.  1840. 
Chil:  her's  six.  She  was  born  in  Chatham,  Kent  Eng. 

22  Ira  Ernest  Egan  md.  1882,  64.  Emma  Moss,  b.  in  Australia 
Chil.  65.  *  Effie  J.  b.  1883,  66  *  Emma  Myrtle  b.  1886,  67. 
Ernest  L.  b.  1888,  d.  yg.  68.  Ira  E.  b.  14  July  1889,  69.  Jeanne 
T.  b.  1893,  d.  yg.  All  born  in  Salt  Lake  City. 

24.  Helen  Jenet  Egan  md.  1886,  70.  John  K.  Irvine  b.  3  Jan. 
1844  Chil:  John  b.  7  Feb.  1867,  Howard  G.  b.  23  Mar.  1869, 
Helen  N.  b.  21  Nov.  1871.  Wm.  E.  b.  .12  Jan.  1874,  Clarence 
E.  b.  10  Dec.  1877X  Maud  M.  b.  29  Oct.  1880,  Luella,  A.  b.  9 
Sept,  1883,  Robert  L.  b.  19  Sept.  1886.  All  born  in  Salt  Lake 
City. 

27.  Hyrum  William  Egan,  md.  1871,  71.  Mary  Salome  Preator  b. 
18  May  1851.  Chil:  Hyrum  L.  L.  b.  30  Nov.  1872,  73  *  Theresa 
E.  b.  21  Jan.  1875.  74.  Mary  E.  b.  8  Nov.  1883.  75.  Vida 
V.  b.  14  Feb.  1886.  First  two  born  in  Deep  Creek,  last 
two  in  Bason,  Idaho. 

FIRST    BRANCH;     FAMILY    OF    NO.    17    THEIR    MARRIAGES 
AND    CHILDREN. 

29.  Annie  Tamson  Egan,  md.  1884,  76.  Freeman  Burnham.    Chil 
Nora  T.  b.  14  Mar.  1885,  Afton  b.  22  Mar.  1887,  Ada,  b.  26  Sep. 
1888,  Pauline  b  8  Apr.  1891.  Howard  A.  b.  4  Apr.  1893,  Mildred 
22  Apr.  1895,  Walace  F.  b.  26  Jan.  1897,  Donald  J.  b.  12  Nov. 
1899,  Arthur  H.  b.  7  Sept.  1900,  Mourice  L.  b.  11  Sept.  1903 
Harold  L.  b.  14  July  1906,  Wayne  E.  b.  27  June  1908.    First 
three  at  Richmond  next  two  at  Ogden,  the  rest  at  Salt  Lake 
City. 

30.  Julia  Jane  Egan,  md.  1883,  76.  W.  R.  Tripp  b.  in  Salt  Lake 
City.    Chil:  Effie  P.  b.  7  Feb.  1884,  Julia  A.  b.  26  May  1887,  d. 
Inft.    Both  born  in  Richmond,  Utah. 

31.  Howard  Milo  Egan,  md.  1892,  77.  Laura  Hill  of  Richmond 
Chil:    78      Milo  H.  b.  14  Sept  1893,  79.  Edna  L.  b.  22  Sept. 
1895,  80.  Wm.  R.  b.  24  Nov.  1.897,  81.  Russel  b.  23  Nov.  1899. 
82    Winnie  I    b.    1   Sept.    1901,   83.   Hoarce  D.   b.   22   Mar. 
1903,  84.    Lee  L.  b.  13  Jan.  1906,  85.  Arnold  F.  b.  13  Mar.  1908 
All  born  in  Richmond  Utah 

32.  Mary  Elizabeth  Egan,  md.  1893,  86.  Walter  J.  Hill  of  Rich- 
mond.   Chil:  Leonard  W.  b.  22  Sept  1895,  Coila  L.  b.  18  May 
1898,  Mary  G.  b.  7  Sept  1905,  d.  1906.     Born  in  Richmond 
Utah. 

33.  William   Ira  Egan,  md.   1897,  87.  Mary  Chatterton  of  Rich- 
mond. Chil:   88.  Phebe  L.  b.  20  Nov.  1898,  89.     William  b. 


P  I  O  N  E  E  R  I  N  G     THE    WEST 293 

1900,  d.  1900  90  Mary  P.  b.  10  Mar.  1903,  md.  (2nd  wife) 
91.  Mary  M.  Gunter  Chil:  (2nd  wife)  92.  Loren  b.  16  Feb. 
1910,  93.  Alva  b.  1912.  All  born  in  Richmond,  Utah. 

34.  John  Ransom  Egan,  md.  1897,  94  Annie  C.   Smith  b.  1877. 
Chii:    95.  Annie   V.  b.  9  July  1898,  96  Carlos  R.  b.  12  Oct. 
1899,  97.  Hoarce  R.  b.  27  Jan.  1901,  98.  Flossie  L.  b.  14  Sept. 
1902,  99.     David  D.  b.  6  Oct  1904,  100.     Howard  V.  b.  Feb. 
1906,    101    Amanda   C.   b.   3   June   1909.     All    born   in   Rich- 
mond,   Utah. 

35.  Linnie  June  Egan,   md.   1897,   102   Riley  Bair  of  Richmond 
Chil:  Howard  Bair  b.  25  June  1898,  Gertrude  b.  24  Aug.  1899, 
Ivan  L.  b.  24  Aug  1901,  Maurice  L.  b.  17  Aug.  1903,  Doris 
b.    17   Aug.   1903,   Riley  R.   b.   3   April   1905.     Walter  A.   b. 
14  March  1907,  Richard  E.  b.  12  Dec.   1910.     Elmo  E.   b. 
2  Feb.  1913,  Glen  G.  b.  24  Feb.  1915.    All  born  in  Richmond 
except  Maurice  L.  in  Rexburg,  Idaho. 

36.  Charles  Erastus  Egan,  md.   1911,  103  Paula  Krupa  of  Ger- 
many. 

37.  George  Ernest  Egan,  md.   1902,  104.  Minnie  Hope  of  Rich- 
mond.    Chil:   105.     Nada  I.  b.  12  Feb.  1904,  106.  Edith  E.  b. 
8  March  1905,  107    Delbert  E.  b.  14  Apr.  1907.  108  Alta  L. 
L.    b.    1    Feb.    1910,    109    Millie   b.    May    1913.     All   born   in 
Richmond,    Utah. 

38.  Hoarce    Walter    Egan,    md.    1912,    110.    Anna    B.    Tengberg 
Chil:   111.  Myrtle  A.  b.  20  Nov.  1912  in  Preston  Idaho.  112. 
Inis  B.  b.  19  Aug  1914  in  Tremonton,  Utah. 

39.  James    Alva    Egan,    md.    1911,    113.      Zina    G.    Christensen 
Chil:  114  Merlin  A.  b.  29  Sept.  1912,  115  Thelda  Z.  b.  8  May 
1914.     Children  born  in  Richmond. 

40.  Inis  Percilla  Egan,  md.  1907,  116.  N.  E.  Maben  of  Richmond. 
Chil:    Inis   V.    Maben   b.    23   Jan    1910   in   Richmond,   Utah. 
*In    addition    to   .those    given    above    of   this    branch,    (the 
children  of  No.  17  Nos.  29  to  40  Inclusive),  there  were  five 
grand  children  married  and  ten  great  grand  children  born 
but  no  details  were  given. 

SECOND   BRANCH;    FAMILY   OF   NO.   18  THEIR   MARRIAGES 
AND   CHILDREN. 

42  Tamson  Minnie  Egan.  md.  1888,  117.  William  Marshall  b.  in 
Bountiful..  Chil:  William  E.  Marshall  b.  2  Apr.  1889,  Darell 
b.  24  July  1891,  Minnie  L.  b.  8  Dec.  1896.  First  two  born  in 
Bountiful  last  Randolph. 

43.  Erastus  Howard  Egan,  md.  118.  Alice  Moss  of  Bountiful 
Chil:  Frastus:  119  Howard  E.  b.  19  June  1890,  120  Christie 
b.  21  Aug.  1891,  121.  Clifford  J.  b.  25  Jan.  1897,  122.  Minnie 


294 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

R.  b.   6  Mar  1900,  123.  Ethel  W.  b.  1902.     All  born  in  Pro- 
spect, Idaho,  except  1st  born  in  Bountiful. 

45.  Horace  Fredrick  Egan,  md.  1891,  124.     Eveline  E.  Benson 
Chil:    125.     Horace   Fred.   Jr.   b.   23   Sept   1892,   126.     John 
Perry  b.  23  Mar.  1894,  127.    Minnie  E.  b.  Feb.  1896,  128.    May 
b.  9  Nov.  1898,  d.  yg.  129.    Loyd  B.  b.  5  July  1900,  130.    Neva 
b.    24    Mar.    1909,    131.      Rodney,    b.    1913.      First    born    in 
Bountiful,  next  three  in  Skelton,  Bingham  Co.  Idaho,  next 
in  Willow  Creek,  last  two  in  Salt  Lake  City. 

46.  John  Leroy  Egan,  md.  1896,  132.     Millie  Benson  Chil:   133. 
Elsie  b.   26  July   1897,   134.     Leroy  B.  b.   9   Dec.   1899,  135. 
Carlos  B.  b.  25   Sept.   1901,  136.     Alta  b.  7  Apr.  1903,  137. 
Mabel  b.  6  Feb.  1905,  138.     Ezra  B.  b.  14  Jan.  1907,     139. 
Lucille  b.  14  Nov.  1909,  140.     Wren  B.  b.  1  Aug.  1911,  141. 
John  B.  b.  Apr.  1913,  142.    Lyle  B.  b.  3  June  1915.    First  five 
born  in  Bountiful,  last  five  in  Byron,  Wyo. 

48.  Willard  Richard  Egan,  md.  1901,  143.  Lelis  Sessions.  Chil: 
144.  Vera  S.  b.  21  Jan.  1902,  145.  Minnie  b.  29  May  1903,  146. 
Linnie  b.  29  May  1903.  All  born  in  Bountiful,  Utah. 

50.  Ira  Irvin  Egan,  md.   1898,   147.     Margaret  R.   Colvin  Chil: 
148.  Ira  O.  b.  30  Nov.  1899,  149.     Rozelle  b.  12  Aug.  1902, 
150.    Lorin  R.  b.  25  Aug.  1904,  151.    Wanda  b.  25  Sept.  1906, 
152.     David  M.  b.  26  Sept.  1908.     First  three  born  in  Eden, 
Utah  last  two  born  in  Byron,  Wyo. 

51.  Linnie   June   Egan,   md.    1900,   153.     Robert  A.   Moss   Chil: 
Emma  L.  b.  18  Feb.  1907,  Robert  D.  b.  10  Dec.  1908.     Born 
in   Salt  Lake   City. 

52.  Mary  Adelade  Egan,  md.  1901,  154.     Oscar  J.  Evans  Chil: 
McClellan  J.  Evans  b.  10  Sept.  1902,  Oral  J.  b.  4  June  1905, 
Iris  b.  10  Sept.  1907,  Oscar  E.  b.  9  Apr.  1909,  Alta  M.  b.  6 
Apr.  1910,  Durell  E.  b.   20  Nov.  1911,  Baby  b.  14  Apr.  1914. 
All  born  in  Randolph,  Wyo. 

53.  Charles  Merit  Egan,  md.  1906,  155.     Clara  R.  Hatch  Chil: 
156.    Mary  E.  b.  3  Aug.  1907,  157.     Charles  S.  b.  3  Jan.  1910, 
158.     Delbert  H.  b.  14  Sept.  1913.     Born  in  Salt  Lake  City 

54.  David    Egan,   md.    1907,   159.      Elizabeth    Easton    Chil:    160. 
Harold  E.  b.  26  July  1908,  161.    David  E.  b.  9  Dec.  1909,  162. 
Florence  b.  25  Feb.  1911,  163.     Laura  b.  4  Dec.  1912,  164. 
La  Rue  b.  30  July  1914,  165.     Helen  b.  23  Dec.  1915.     First 
two  born  in  Byron  Wyo.     Third  in  Centerfield  the  rest  in 
Salt  Lake  City. 

57.  Ora  May  Egan,  md..  7  June  1911,  John  W.  Simmons  Chil: 
Glenn  Winn  b.  3  Mar.  1912,  Raymond  E.  b.  Feb.  1914.  born  in 
Byron,  Wyoming. 

58.  Nellie  Loretta  Egan,  md.  11  Sept  1912,  Frank  J.  Sylvester 
Chil:  Louise  b.  28  July  1913  at  Byron,  Wyo. 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST  295 

FAMILY  OF  NO.  22  THEIR   MARRIAGES  AND  CHILDREN 

65.  Effie  Irene  Egan,  md.  1904,  166.     Milo  Andrus  Chil:  Emma 
J.  b.  1905,  Clifford  M.  b.  1906,  Zelda  b.  22  Aug.  1912. 

66.  Emma  Myrtle  Egan,  md.  1907,  167     John  W.  Pitcher  Chil: 
Stanley  J.  b.  25  June  1908,  Ernest  J.  b.  Feb.  1911,  d.  June 
1911,    Adrian    b.    10    April.    1912,    Vernon    b.    12    May    1914. 
Born  at  Smithfield,  Utah. 

68.  Ira  Erastus  Egan,  md.  1912,  168.  Annie  P.  Rudd,  Chil: 
169.  Gladio  Myrtle  b.  13  Nov.  1913  in  Salt  Lake  City, 

FAMILY  OF  NO.  27  THEIR   MARRIAGES  AND  CHILDREN 

72,  Hyrum  L.   Egan,  md.  1894,  170.     Mary  L.  Kidd  Chil:    171. 
Howard  H.  «b.  4  Feb.  1895,  172.     Douglas  R.  b.  Sept.  1896, 
173.    Mary  E.  b.  30  Nov.  1897,  174.     Troy  C.  b.  18  Apr.  1899, 
175.    Edith  M.  b.  5  Mar  1901,  176    Leonard  E  b.  6  Sept  1903, 
177.    Lucy  A.  b.  6  Sept.  1904,  178.    William  A.  b.  9  Apr.  1907. 
First  six  born  in  Oakley,  last  two  in  Bason,  Idaho. 

73.  Theresa  E.  Egan,  md.  179.     Joseph  H.  Dayley  Chil:    Clara 
E.  b.  19  Feb.  1893,  Joseph  M.  b.  18  May  1894,  James  H.  b. 
14  Oct.  1896,  Dewey  L.  b.  17  Sept.  1898,  Emilly  T.  b.  8  Dec. 
1900  Laura  b.  17  Nov.  1901,  Cora  L.  b.  6  Dec.  1904,  Mary 
B.  b.  12  Jaan.  1908  Richard  L.  b.  5  Apr.  1910.    Born  in  Bason, 
Idaho. 

75.  Vida  V.  Egan,  md.  1903,  180.  Walter  W.  Kidd  Chil:  Hazel  J. 
b.  19  Sept.  1904,  Garnet  W.  b.  20  Jan.  1905,  Buel  E.  b.  14 
Apr.  1907,  Thurman,  A.  b.  30  Aug..  1909  All  born  in  Bason, 
Idaho. 

Descendants  of  male  line  of  Howard  Egan  No.  11  including 
wives    and    children  155 

Descendants  on  Female  line  of  Howard  Egan  No.  11  in- 
cluding husbands  and  children  none  of  2nd  generation      85 

240 
DESCENDANTS  OF   NO.  4,   NO  11's  UNCLE. 

4.  William  Egan,  md.  1805,  181.  Miss  Watson  Chil:  182.  *Edward 
b.  about  1806,  in  Tullemore,  Kings  Co.  Ireland. 

182.  Edward  Egan,  md.  a.  1828,  183.  Margaret  Coffey  Chil:  184. 
*William  b.  a.  1829,  185.  John  b.  1831,  186.  Margaret 
b.  a.  1833,  187.  Ann  b.  a.  1835.  born  in  Tullemore,  Ireland. 

184.  William  Egan,  md.  1857,  Maria  Murphy,  b.  a.  1833  Chil: 
188.  Edward  b.  9  Aug.  1858  in  Tullemore,  Kings  Co.  Ireland 
and  the  last  of  this  line.  He  is  the  man  standing  in  the 
doorway  of  old  home  page  10. 

FAMILIES    OF   SISTERS    AND    BROTHER    OF    NO.    11 
BROTHER'S  CHILDREN. 

6.  Eliza  Egan,  md.  1830,  189.  Henry  Benallack  Chil:  George 
b.  25  Dec.  1831,  Henry  J.  b.  14  May  1833,  Ann  E.  b.  9  Mar. 
1835,  John  Howard  b.  25  Jan.  1837  d.  1878  John  G.  b  14 


296 F  I  Q  N  E  E  K  I  N7  G     T  H  K     W  R  S  rr 

Nov.  1838,  Eliza  b.  21  Mar  1841,  d.  1890  Howard  b.  5  May  1843, 
Maria  b.  18  Feb.  18  Feb.  1846.    Born  in  Montreal,  Canada. 

7.  Mary  Egan,  md.  1833,  190.    Adam  Higgins  b.  1802  Chil:  Eliza 
b.   21   Feb.  1835,  Annie  b.   1   Mar.   1836  Thomas  Wm.   b.  1 
Sept  1837,  Howard  Egan  b.  Nov  1838  Maria  b.  1841.    Adam  b. 
1843.     Margaret  b.  1845  John  G.  b  22  May  1846.     Born  in 
Montreal,  Canada. 

8.  Catherine  Egan,  md.  1828  191  John  Ransom  Chil:   Annie  b. 
Apr.    1829,    Mary    b.    17.    Oct.    1830,   Jane   b.    19    Mar.    1832, 
Eliza  b.  19  Mar.  1832,  Aaron  F.  b.  24  Oct  1833,  John  b.  25 
Nov.  1835,  Howard  b.  5  Feb.   1838,  Richard   b.  1   Oct  1840. 
All  born  in  Montreal,  Canada. 

FAMILY  OF  NO.  13  THEIR  MARRIAGES  AND  CHILDREN 

13.  Richard  Egan,  md.  1841,  192.  Maria  Stuart  Chil: 
193.  Francis  Howard  b.  10  Aug.  1843,  194  William  J.  b.  25 
Mar.  1846,  195.  Maria  b.  22  May  1847,  196.  *  Richard  b.  15 
May  1848,  197.  Eliza  b.  9  July  1850,  198.  *Robert  b.  28 
Oct.  1851,  199  *  Henry  A.  b  20  Mar.  1855,  200.  *Maria  b.  22 
Feb.  1857.  All  born  in  Montreal,  Canada. 

196  Richard  Egan,  md.  1870,  201  Charlotte  Stuart  Chil:  202. 
Henrietta  b.  5  July  1871,  203  Maria  b.  3  May  1873  204. 
204  Beatrice  M.  b.  8  Apr.  1874,  205.  Lilly  E.  b.  1  Jan  1876, 
206.  Charlotte  F.  b.  6  Apr.  1879,  207.  Laura  G.  b.  24  Jan.  1881, 
208.  Richard  W.  b.  3  Nov.  1882.  All  born  in  Montreal,  Canada. 

198  Robert.  Egan,  md.  1882,  209.  Annie  HcCuaig  Chil:  210 
Annie  L.  b.  17  May  1883,  d.  yg.  William  H.  b.  3  Dec.  1884 
212  Bertha  M.  b.  6  May  1887,  213.  Malcolm  R.  b.  25  Dec. 
1888.  d.  yg.  214  Eva  M.  b.  21  Aug.  1890,  215  Florence  R.  b. 
28  Apr.  1892,  d  yg.  216.  Alice  E.  b.  28  Apr.  1892,  d.  yg. 
217.  John  S.  b.  20  May  1894,  218.  Violet  A.  b.  28  Mar.  1897. 
All  born  in  Montreal  Canada 

199.  Henry  Adam  Egan,  md.  1882,  219.  Elizabeth  Ann  Lumsden 
Chil:  220.  Robert  F.  b.  23  Nov.  1883,  221.  Mary  H.  b. 
3  Mar  1886,  222.  Lilly  S.  b.  21  Feb.  1888,  223.  Henry  A. 
b.  18  Nov.  1889,  224.  James  A.  b.  15  June  1891,  225.  Richard 
E.  b.  31  Mar  1896.  All  born  in  Montreal,  Canada. 

200  Maria  Egan,  md.  1877,226.  John  Andrew  Peard  Chil:  Wil- 
liam H.  b.  23  June  1878,  Francis  A.  S.  b.  12  Jan.  1881. 
Edith  F.  b  Mar.  1882,  John  T.  b.  24  Nov.  1885  Walter  P. 
b.  Dec.  1887,  John  A.  L.  b.  16  June  2891.  All  born  in 
Montreal,  Canada. 

(Serial  numbers  are  applied  to  those  bearing  the  Egan  name  and 
those  whom  they  married  only.     Those  marked  with  *  mar- 
ried and  their  names  appear  the  second  time  as  head 
of   family.) 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 297 

"IRISH    HISTORY 

A  little  idea  of  Irish  History  may  be  gained  by  the  following 
brief  sketch,  which  should  be  read  in  connection  with  Genealogy 
before  given: 

It  was  first  peopled  in  the  4th  century  after  the  Deluge  ac- 
cording to  tradition  by  Parthenius  from  Japheth  stock  in  the 
80th  year  of  the  age  of  Abraham  B.  C.  2100. 

After  300  years  in  Erin  the  entire  colony  of  900  were  cut 
off  by  a  di-eadful  pestilence. 

Nemidius,  a  distant  relative  of  Partholan  "39  years  after 
arrived  there  1761  B.  C.  with  1000  followers.  In  a  short  time 
Ireland  was  invaded  by  the  Formorians,  giants  from  Africa. 
They  were  fought  successfully  in  many  engagements,  but  in  the 
great  battle  of  Tory  Island  the  army  of  Nemidius  was  totally 
destroyed.  Those  who  survived  fled,  some  to  the  north  of 
Belgium  to  become  the  ancestors  of  the  Firbolgs  or  Bogmen, 
some  wandered  to  Greece  to  give  parentage  to  the  Tuatha  De 
Danaan,  and  others  escaped  to  the  neighboring  island  of  Britain, 
which  it  is  said  took  its  name  from  Briotan,  the  Nemedan  leader 
who  settled  there. 

Tlie  Firbolgs,  kept  in  cruel  bondage  in  Belgium  seized  the 
ships  of  their  masters  and  landed  in  Ireland  B.  C.  1397  and  in 
the  desisive  battle  of  Tara  the  Formorian  forces  were  nearly 
annihilated. 

The  Firbolgs  were  in  their  turn  disturbed  of  their  prize  80 
years  after  by  the  Tuatha  De  Danaans.  Nauida,  their  king 
was  immediately  attacked  by  his  Firbolg's  kinsman  under  their 
Monarch,  Eocha.  The  battle  of  Moytura  was  fierce  and  bloody, 
and  after  six  days  of  the  greatest  slaughter  that  was  ever  heard 
of  in  Erin,  the  victory  remained  with  the  Tuatha  De  Danaans, 
and  they  remained  in  power  200  years. 

The  last  conquerors  of  Pagan  Ireland  were  called  Gael  or 
Gadian  from  one  of  their  rulers,  Gadelas  who  was  bitten  by  a 
serpent,  but  healed  by  Moses  when  he  was  preparing  to  liber- 
ate Israel  from  Egypt.  In  gratitude  Gadelas  supplied  Moses  and 
the  Children  of  Israel  with  provisions  after  their  passage  of 
the  Red  Sea. 

For  this  they  were  driven  out  and  settled  Phonecia  and 
afterwards  in  Spain  under  King  Breogan,  who  had  two  sons  Ith 
and  Bile.  The  latter  was  the  father  of  Milesius,  who  in  turn 
became  King  of  the  Colony,  called  Galicia. 

Milesius  went  back  to  Egypt  and  Pharoah  gave  him  the  chief 
command  of  th«  Royal  Army.  He  was  successful  and  Pharaoh 
gave  him  his  daughter  Scota  in  marriage  and  he  returned  to 
Spain. 

A  dreadful  drouth  caused  King  Milesius  to  send  his  uncle 
Ith  to  seek  the  most  western  island  of  Europe..  Ith  set  sail 
with  his  son  Louy  and  a  large  force.  They  soon  landed  on  the 
Irish  coast,  were  attacked  and  in  a  sharp  struggle  Ith  fell  and 
they  were  forced  to  retire.  Louy  barley  escaped  with  a  few  com- 


298 PIONEERING    THE    WEST     .  

panions  and  embarked  for  home.  In  the  mean  time  Milesius, 
after  reigning  36  years  died,  the  hero  of  1000  battles. 

The  Milesians,  on  the  return  of  the  expedition,  prepared 
themselves  to  avenge  the  death  of  Ith  and  conquer  Ireland.  A 
fleet  of  60  vessels  were  equipped  and  the  entire  colony  embarked 
under  40  leaders,  including  the  eight  sons  of  Milesius,  their 
Mother  Scota  and  Louy  the  son  of  Ith. 

"They  arrived  at  Ireland  B.  C.  1120.  Five  of  the  brothers  per- 
ished before  landing.  The  remaining  sons  Heber,  Hermon,  and 
Amergin  with  all  their  attendants  effected  a  landing  at  last  near 
Sleive  Mish  Mountain  in  Kerry.  They  were  attacked  by  Queen 
Eire.  She  was  put  to  flight  after  loosing  1000  men.  The  Mile- 
sians loosing  300  besides  Scota  and  many  chiefs. 

After  the  first  advantage,  plans  were  laid  which  resulted 
in  a  decisive  battle  on  the  plain  of  Telton,  in  Meath.  A  well 
contested  and  bloody  battle  was  fought  and  the  sovereignty  of 
Ireland  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Milesians,  and  the  other 
dynasties  passed  away. 

Heber  and  Hermon  divided  the  sovereignty  of  Ireland  be- 
tween them.  The  two  brothers  ruled  but  a  year  when  Heber's 
wife  influenced  him  to  declare  war  against  Hermon.  The  two 
armies  met  at  Geashill  near  Tullemore,  King's  County.  Hermon 
was  finally  victorious  and  from  him  through  over  100  Monarchs  of 
Ireland  we  trace  our  genealogy. 


HOWARD   EGAN'S   TRAVEL 

From  the  Missouri    River  to  the  Valley  of  the  Salt  Lake  in 
1849.    -    Kept    by    Peter    Hanson. 

*This  paper  only  recently  came  into  my  hands  and  was  too 
late  for  insertion  in  the  proper  place  and  we  will  not  now  try 
to  reproduce  it  but  only  make  some  notes  concerning  it. 

It  seems  this  was  Howard  Egan's  third  trip  to  Salt  Lake. 
The  paper  states  that  the  winter  was  severe  until  March  and 
that  Howard  had  a  hard  time  of  it  having  to  travel  most  of  the 
time,  making  preparations  for  the  trip.  It  states  that  the  com- 
pany began  to  gather  on  the  15th  of  April  1849,  Peter  Hanson 
and  others  went  through  Kanesville  and  on  the  ninth  day  ar- 
rived at  St.  Joseph,  which  was  very  stirring  on  account  of  the 
"Gold  fever"  raging  there  about  going  to  California.  Their  loads 
were  heavy  and  the  wagons  rolled  on  the  hubs  for  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  through  the  mud. 

Howard  Egan  sent  some  goods  on  a  steamboat,  by  Orson 
Whitney,  up  the  river,  buf  the  boat  sunk  and  Orson,  got  some 
help  and  got  out  the  most  part  of  them.  On  the  3rd  of  May 
Howard  Egan  with  his  wife  Nancy  and  child  Helen  joined  the 
company  got  them  together  and  made  preparations  for  the 
journey  crossing  the  Missouri  on  the  15th  of  May  at  Fort  Kearny. 

On  the  16th  day  of  May,  the  paper  states,  "Bro.  Howard 
Egan  called  the  company  together  for  the  purpose  of  organizing. 


F  I  Q,N  E  BRING      THE      WEST  299 

Howard  Egan  was  chosen  Captain  of  the  company.  Elijah  El- 
mer Captain  of  the  guard  and  herding.  Captains  of  Tens  were 
also  chosen  and  a  clerk. 

A  list  of  the  names,  ages  and  equipment  of  those  in  the 
company  are  given  in  detail,  showing  that  there  were  57  persons, 
6  horses,  3  mules,  97  oxen,  21  cows,  3  young  cattle,  21  fowls, 
6  dogs,  and  22  wagons.  The  following  with  their  families: 
Howard  Egan,  James  Graham,  Elijah  Elmer,  James  H.  Christ- 
man,  Phillip  Klingensmith,  Jackson  Clothier,  Nathaniel  Jones, 
Stephen  Winchister  and  most  of  the  rest  without  families. 

They  commenced  their  first  long  drive  the  17th  day  of  May 
and  on  the  19th  3  more  wagons  joined  them,  this,  however,  was 
before  the  account  was  taken  of  the  company.  On  the  21st  they 
met  3  teams  of  the  gold  seekers  going  back  home,  and  more  on 
the  23rd. 

They  passed  and  were  passed  by  other  companies  and  on  the 
29th  got  the  report  that  60  individuals  had  died  with  cholera  be- 
tween Independence  and  Grand  Island.  Wagons  worth  $125  were 
sold  for  $15  to  $20.  Bacon  1  cent  per  Ib.  2000  wagons  were  at 
the  crossing  of  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platt  River. 

On  the  4th  of  June  a  company  of  U.  S.  Dragoons  passed  by 
going  to  Oregon.  On  the  9th  they  met  Thomas  Williams  and 
Levi  Merrill  coming  from  the  valley  and  going  to  the  states. 
They  had  been  robbed  by  the  Crow  Indians.  They  saw  many 
buffalos  and  killed  some.  They  met  Lorenzo  Young  and  others 
from  the  valley  on  the  12th,  also  returning  gold  seakers,  one  of 
whom  had  been  wounded  in  a  row  among  themselves.  On  the 
27th  a  list  of  deaths  in  Nelsons  Company  from  Diarrhea  is  given. 
On  the  30th  day  they  laid  up  to  shoe  oxen  and  Captain  Egan  rode 
on  to  the  ferry  on  the  Platt,  where  there  were  many  companies 
crossing.  Some  of  the  troups  going  to  Oregon  were  trying  to 
cross.  More  than  half  of  them  had  deserted  already  and  about 
half  of  the  rest  were  getting  ready  to  leave. 

Captain  Egan's  company  got  there  July  3rd  and  it  was  a 
great  joy  to  meet  the  brethern  of  other  companies  ferrying  across 
Several  horses  were  drowned  and  several  wagons  lost.  Frederic 
Jones  was  shot  while  trying  to  melt  out  a  ball  in  his  gun  on  the 
4th  and  died  on  the  8th.  On  the  12th  they  reached  Independence 
Rock.  Tires  had  run  off  and  wheels  broke  down  and  many 
other  troubles  had  been  met  and"  overcome.  A  large  number 
of  dead  cattle  were  lying  along  the  road.  Sister  Klingensmith 
had  a  daughter  born  on  the  17th.  They  camped  on  the  Sweet- 
water  on  the  19th  and  a  report  was  brought  to  them  that  the 
deserting  soldiers  were  calculating  to  rob  this  and  Pomeroy's  Co. 
for  provisions.  They  arrived  at  Green  River  on  the  25th  and 
ferried  over.  Many  cattle  died  with  bloody  flux. 

Captain  Egan  went  on  with  the  mail  July  25th.  Nat.  Jones 
had  a  steer  stolen  but  overtook  the  thief  and  took  it  from  him. 
Some  deserters  were  taken  by  Mr.  Bridger's  men,  from  whom 
they  had  stolen  horses.  On  the  28th  Mrs.  N.  Jones  gave  birth 
to  a  boy  who  died  and  was  buried  at  Black's  Fork. 


300 PIONEERING     THE      WEST 

On  the  3rd  of  Aug.  Captain  Egan  returned  with  others 
from  the  Valley  with  wagons  and  ox  teams,  which  gave  the 
company  much  joy.  This  was  on  the  Weber  River  and  they 
commenced  their  assent  up  Pratt's  Pass.  Aug.  7th  they  went 
over  the  mountain  and  into  the  valley.  "Great  Joy"  said  Peter 
Hanson  as  his  last  words  in  the  Diary. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  Howard  Egan  made  but  a  short  stay 
in  Salt  Lake  with  his  family  before  he  commenced  his  Cali- 
fornia trip  as  given  on  previous  pages  of  this  book,  and  this 
should  have  preceeded  that  trip  if  we  had  known  of  it  in  time. 


EGAN   FAMILY  ORGANIZATION 

A  meeting  was  called  for  June  15,  1914  and  a  temporary 
organization  effected  and  later  the  following  "Circular  Letter" 
was  sent  out  which  explains  itself: 

The  desire  has  been  frequently  expressed  that  the  Egan 
Family  should  be  organized,  but  expressions  do  not  accomplish 
anything  without  acting  upon  them.  The  wide  scattered  condi- 
tion of  the  family  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  them  together 
made  it  seem  like  being  almost  impossible  until  a  simple  easy 
plan  was  hit  on  to  reach  the  desired  results  without  very  much 
trouble  to  any  of  them. 

A  local  organization  for  Salt  Lake  City  and  preliminary  or- 
ganization of  the  whole  family  was  effected  June  15th,  1914, 
in  Salt  Lake  City  and  only  requires  the  approval  of  the  member- 
ship to  be  final  which  we  hope  to  obtain  by  the  100th  anniver- 
sary of  our  honored  Pioneer,  Howard  Egan's  birth  June  15th, 
1915,  when  we  hope  to  have  a  reunion  of  all  his  descendants  that 
can  possibly  attend. 

We  are  sending  this  circular  letter  to  each  head  of  fa- 
mily and  a  copy  of  the  Articles  and  expect  they  will  submit  them 
to  all  in  their  locality,  who  are  interested,  and  to  return  their 
reply  to  the  Gen'l  Sec'y  H.  Fred  Egan  Jr.  3  Girard  Ave.,  Salt 
Lake  City. 

It  will  be  observed  that  there  is  absolutely  no  membership 
fee  and  therefore  every  descendent  and  those  that  have  married 
into  the  family  are  members  without  any  consideration.  There 
is,  however,  some  duties  connected  with  it  whether  performed  or 
not.  You  will  notice  the  objects  in  view  as  referred  to  in  the 
preamble  of  the  Articles  of  Agreement.  We  know  not  how  much 
of  those  objects  we  shall  be  able  to  accomplish. 

Howard  R.  Egan  becomes  the  President  of  the  organization 
and  has  had  in  contemplation  for  some  time  the  publishing  of  a 
book,  our  Father's  Journal  of  1847,  as  captain  of  the  9th,  Ten 
of  the  chosen  144  to  seek  a  new  home  for  the  Latter-day  Saints 
with  some  of  his  Biography  and  genealogy  of  the  family  to  the 
present  time  and  has  had  the  work  typewritten  for  that  purpose 


PIONEERING     THE     WEST 301 

ARTICLES  OF  AGREEMENT: 

PERPETUAL  ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EGAN  FAMILY 
SOCIETY. 

"Whereas  the  descendants  of  Howard  Egan  are  desirous  of 
associating  themselves  for  the  purpose  of  social  relations,  re- 
newal of  old  family  ties  and  affections,  honoring  the  dead  and 
the  living,  erecting  a  monument  to  the  name  of  our  honored 
pioneer,  the  head  of  the  family,  to  do  temple  and  genealogical 
work  and  they  do  hereby  certify,  declare,  and  agree  as  followed 
that  is  to  say: 
FIRST: 

The  name  of  the  society  shall  be  the  Egan  Family  Society. 
SECOND: 

Salt    Lake    shall    be    the    Societys'    headquarters,       with 
branches  in  every  place  where  any  of  its  members  may  live. 
THIRD: 

The  organization  shall  be  perpetual 
FOURTH: 

The    membership    shall    consist    of    every    descendant   of 
Howard  Egan  and  those  who  have  married  any  of  them  and  their 
children,   any  others   can  only   be   received   by   consent   of  the 
majority  of  members. 
FJFTH: 

The    business    and    social    relations   that   it   is   agreed   to 
^nter  into  shall  be  as  indicated  in  the  preamble 
SIXTH: 

The  offcers  of  the  society  shall  be,  a  president,  vice-pre- 
sidents, secretaries,  and  treasurers  (general  and  local)  and 
committee  on  temple  work,  and  a  committee  on  amusements. 

The  president  shall  be  the  oldest  male  descendant  of 
Howard  Egan  in  succession,  whose  duty  shall  be  to  preside,  but 
he  may  appoint  a  chairman  or  substitute. 

The  vice-presidents  shall  be  the  oldest  male  descendant  in 
each  locality  and  each  family  whose  duty  shall  be  to  preside 
over  the  local  branch  or  family  and  in  the  absence  of  the  pre- 
sident shall  perform  all  his  duties.  It  shall  be  the  duty  also 
of  the  branch  and  family  vice-presidents  to  receive  reports 
pertaining  to  the  society  and  comunicate  the  same  to  the 
branch  or  family  and  forward  reports  of  all  matters  pertaining  to 
their  branch  or  family  to  the  general  society  headquarters. 

The  secretaries  shall  be  nominated  and  elected  at  any 
meeting  of  the  society  or  branch,  where  there  is  a  vacancy  of 
the  office,  by  a  majority  vote  present.  The  secretary  elected  in 
Salt  Lake  City  shall  be  the  general  secretary  of  the  society 
provided  that  such  officer  be  approved  by  the  branches  and 
families,  but  shall  hold  such  office  until  a  successor  shall  be  ap- 
proved. The  duty  of  the  general  secretary  shall  be  to  take 
the  minutes  and  keep  the  records  of  all  proceedings  of  the 
society.  The  corresponding  secretaries  shall  be  appointed  by 


302 PIONEERING    THE    WEST 

the  secretaries  as  necessities  may  require  from  any  willing 
workers  of  the  socieiy,  whose  duty  shall  be  to  communicate 
with  branches,  families,  and  members  and  any  other  corres- 
pondence necessary. 

The  treasurer  shall  be  nominated  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  secretary,  whose  duty  shall  be  to  receive  and  care  for  the 
donations  and  disburse  all  funds  by  order  of  the  president  or 
vice-presidents  according  to  the  desire  of  those  who  shall 
contribute  the  same. 

The  committee  on  Temple  work  shall  consist  of  three 
persons,  to  act  for  the  society.  One  to  act  as  chairman,  one  to 
receive,  collect  and  handle  the  funds  and  account  for  same  so 
all  will  know  what  has  become  of  their  contributions,  and  one 
to  act  as  recorder  of-family  genealogy,  whose  duty  it  is  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  gathering  and  recording  geneal"e;y,  with 
accuracy  and  care,  preparing  for  the  work  to  be  done,  and  record- 
ing the  completed  work  as  it  progresses.  They  shall  be  chosen 
with  care  from  those  best  acquainted  witii  the  work  and  ap- 
proved and  sustained  by  the  members.  The  committee  on  socials, 
consisting  of  three  or  more,  shall  be  appointed  or  elected  per- 
manently and  from  time  to  time  as  desirable,  who  shall  have  in 
charge  the  programs  of  the  yearly  meetings,  the  preparations  for 
those  gatherings,  and  other  duties  common  to  such  officers. 

No  membership  fee  shall  be  required  from  any  member  but 
it  shall  be  considered  the  duty  of  every  member  to  contribute 
according  to  their  means  and  desire  to  assist  in  the  temple  work, 
but  the  actual  work  will  be  accepted  and  credit  given  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  means  of  having  it  done.  Regular  contributions,  it 
but  smnll  is  desirable  all  of  which  rrrist  be  carefully  accounted 
for  and  reports  made  as  to  what  has  been  done." 

According  to  the  plan  and  instructions,  local  organizations 
were  formed  in  the  d'fferent  places  where  members  of  the  Egan 
Family  reside,  and  the  Articles  of  Agreement  Accepted,  and  Jane 
15  the  re-unions  was  held  with  an  interested  attendance,  with 
a  good  program  and  the  organization  was  made  permanent 
and  perpetual  by  unanimously  adopting  the  Articles  of  Agree- 
ment on  the  hundreth  anniversary  of  Major  Howard  Egan's  birth. 


THE    END. 


Pioueer   Monument. 


SUTTERS     FORT     DESTROYED 

Flood  Sweeps  Away  the  Oldest 
Landmark  in  Sacramento  Valley 
MARVPVTLIJ5.  Mar.-h  21.— At  Hock  I 
Farm,  near  Tudor,  a  break  occurred  j 
today  near  an  old  Indian  mound  on 
h  was  situated  the  old  iron  fort 
brought  from  the  East  in  sections  by 
General  John  A.  Sutter  in  the  days 
before  ?ro!d  was  discovered.  The  fort 
is  reported  to  have  been  swept  away. 
It  was  the  oldest  remaining  landmark 
in  the  Sacramento  Valley.  The  fort 
was  an  immense  structure  and  built 
entirely  of  iron.  It  was  the  headquar- 
ters for  gutter's  forces  during1  the  times 
of  trouble  with  the  Indians.  Strange 
as  may  seem,  few  people  knew  of  the 
•«l»tence  of  the  old  fort. 


CHRONICLE,     FIMDA  V, 


SITTER  FORT 
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